Nancy is the capital of the province of Lorraine. Unlike neighboring Alsace, Lorraine never fell under Holy Roman or German rule, so it’s completely French.
Once the home of Lorraine’s powerful dukes, Nancy is a beautiful city, noted for its medieval, 18th-century, and Art Nouveau architecture. The heart of the city is Place Stanislas, named for an exiled king of Poland who became the Duke of Lorraine in 1737. The grand, formal square separates the medieval center of town, the Ville Vielle, from the 16th- and 17th-century Ville Neuve. The Place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Enclosed by gilded, wrought-iron gates, the square is flanked by the Hotel de Ville or City Hall, the Musee des Beaux Arts, the Opera-Theatre, and the Grand Hotel. The museum is one of the best places in Nancy to see Art Nouveau glass in the Nancy style. And there’s a good collection of European paintings from the 15th to the 20th century. Delacroix, Rubens, Caravaggio, Monet, and Manet are all represented.
The Nancy Passe Musees provides discounted admission to the museum as well as the Musee de l’Ecole de Nance and the Musee Historique Lorraine. If you’re going to visit more than one of Nancy’s museums, it will save you some money.
During the summer, there’s a sound and light show at Place Stanislas at 10:45PM.
Nancy is one of the best cities in the world for lovers of Art Nouveau. Any visit here should include time at the Musee de l’Ecole de Nancy or Museum of the Nancy School. The art school was founded in 1901 by glass artist Emile Galle. At the beginning of the 20th century, Nancy vied with Paris as the Art Nouveau center of France.
It’s a long walk from Place Stanislas to the museum, but you can get there by city bus if you prefer. Housed in a turn-of-the-century house built for a department store owner, the museum is the only one of its kind in France. It’s an Art Nouveau lover’s dream with jewelry, glassware, fabrics, and furniture designed by Galle, Daum, Majorelle, Pouve, Gruber, and Vallin.
Majorelle’s villa at 1 rue Louis-Majorelle is another beautiful example of the Nancy Art Nouveau style. It was designed by Henri Sauvage in 1901 for the artist and it has stained glass windows designed by fellow artist Jacques Gruber.
There are several other beautiful Art Nouveau buildings at number 41, 69, and 71 Avenue Foch on the way back to Place Stanislas. The Tourist Information office at Place Stanislas can direct you to lots more examples.
The Musee Historique Lorraine is located in the old ducal palace, which dates from the 13th century. Here, you’ll see medieval and Renaissance sculpture, paintings by Georges de la Tour, and 16th-century tapestries in the ceremonial hall of the dukes.
The best shopping in Nancy is on rue Gambetta and rue des Dominicains. If you’re an antique lover, head to rue Stanislas. Or to enjoy some fresh air, visit La Pepiniere, a 53-acre park that dates from 1765. Quintessentially French, it has a carousel, a rose garden, and a small zoo.
Nancy has several charming cafes off place de la Carriere. Or you can dine in one of Nancy’s beautiful restaurants. L’Excelsior, a beautiful Art Nouveau brasserie, Restaurant le Foy, and Le Capucin Gourmand are all excellent.
There are several lovely Nancy hotels to choose from. Located right on Place Stanislas, the Grand Hotel de la Reine is the best hotel in Nancy. Those looking for something smaller will enjoy Hotel de Guise in a restored 17th- and 18th-century townhouse or Hotel des Prelats in an old Episcopal house not far from the main square. There are also several good business hotels in Nancy.
For more ideas about things to do in Alsace and Lorraine visit Tripaddiction.
Read more articles about France here.
hôtel-brasserie Excelsior and parc de Saurupt Images Flickr: dalbera
Musee Historique Lorraine Image Flickr: dierkschaefer




