Seaside Promenade, Livorno

If you’ve been to Livorno, chances are you were on a Mediterranean cruise bound for Florence. If you saw Livorno at all, it was from the window of a tour bus. Which is a shame, because Livorno is worth your time.

Known as the Etruscan Coast, this part of Tuscany borders the sea. After spending time inland, being on the Mediterranean offers a complete change of scene. The restaurants here serve the best seafood in Tuscany. You can cruise the 17th-century canals from one old fortress to another. And there’s a beautiful water-front promenade with views of the Tuscan archipelago.

Medici architect Bernardo Buonatlenti designed the city in 1567 around a central piazza and encircled it with the Fossio Reale canal.

Several of the Livorno hotels are right on the beach, others are near Livorno’s lively piazzas, shops, and restaurants.

The NH Grand Palazzo is in an elegant 19th-century palace that’s fronted by the gorgeous Terrazza Mascagni promenade. From the roof garden with swimming pool and solarium to the Presidential Suite with Turkish bath, everything here is five-star deluxe. The palace has been exquisitely restored, and the ocean views go on forever. The 123 rooms and suites have minibars, Internet access, flat-screen TVs, and modern, marble bathrooms. There’s a spa, sauna, fitness center, and a dreamy grotto pool in the basement. The restaurant is lovely, and service is professional. This is a beautiful hotel in an unbeatable location.

If you want access to a beach, Hotel Rex is located about four miles south of Livorno in the village of Antignano. There are three restaurants here, most with great views of the sea — the panorama from the terrace is terrific. There are 61 rooms with mini bars, safes, and Internet access. The best have balconies. The beach club has umbrellas, lounge chairs, and a café for snacks.

In the heart of town near Goldoni’s Theater, Al Teatro has eight lovely rooms in a building that dates from the 19th century. Each of the rooms is dedicated to a composer or musician, and decorated with vintage prints and paintings, and period furnishings. The property has won an award from Touring Club. There’s a pretty garden where you can have breakfast or a glass of wine. Service is cordial and helpful. This is one of the most romantic hotels in Livorno.

Livorno Canals

Overlooking the harbor and the Piazza dei Quattro Mori, Hotel Gran Duca is conveniently located close to all the Livorno attractions. It was renovated recently, and now it’s modern and elegant. The hotel‘s restaurant fronts the piazza and serves fresh seafood. With a fitness center, indoor swimming pool, Turkish bath, and massage room, it’s a good choice for those who want to stay fit. The 63 rooms have mini bars, wireless Internet access and interactive LCD TVs. Some have small terraces facing the harbor.

The contemporary Max Hotel Livorno is the best choice for business travelers. It’s close to the train station and sports complex. The Max Lounge has WiFi Internet access, computers, and printers, and there’s a big-screen plasma TV for sporting events. A fitness center and Turkish bath are available. And there’s a good seafood restaurant. Rooms have mini bars, satellite TV, and modem ports. If you like a stylish, modern hotel, you’ll enjoy Hotel Max.

Housed in an 18th-century villa a few miles from Livorno in Montenero, the Hotel La Vedetta di Montenero has 31 charming rooms with features like tile floors and exposed beams. Byron and Shelley both lived in Montenero for a time. Although the hotel is inland, there are beautiful views of the sea from the upstairs rooms and from the terrace. Other rooms overlook the woods surrounding the hotel. The restaurant is open from May through September.

Find more things to see and do in Livorno here.

1) NH Grand Hotel Palazzo
2) Hotel Rex
3) Al Teatro
4) Hotel Gran Duca
5) Max Hotel Livorno
6) Hotel La Vedetta di Montenero

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Seaside Promenade, Livorno Image Flickr: Eric Perrone
Livorno Canals Image Flickr: alexbarrow

Livorno Harbour

Livorno Italy is a cruise port that serves as the gateway for Tuscany.  As a result, for many travelers, Livorno is just a blur on the way to Pisa or Florence.  Which is too bad, because Livorno itself is worth exploring.

Located on a stretch of the Ligurian Sea known as the Etruscan Coast, Livorno has a charming ocean-front promenade, a series of navigable 17th-century canals, and some of the best seafood in Tuscany.

Getting to Livorno is simple enough.  It’s less than three hours by train ride from Rome or Civitavecchia (the cruise port for Rome).

Much of the city was laid out in 1567 by Medici architect Bernardo Buonatlenti.  He bounded the city with the five-sided Fossio Reale canal, anchored it with the Piazza della Repubblica, and added the Fortezza Nuova park for green space.

Here’s what to see and do in Livorno Italy:

1) Canal Cruise

Livorno’s canals, or fossi as they’re known locally, offer a unique view of the city.  The canals were originally defensive moats, and they connect the new and old fortresses with the Piazza della Repubblica, which is basically a big bridge spanning the Fosso Reale or Royal Canal.  This is the best way to see the city.

2) Terrazza Mascagni

Any town would be proud to have this wonderful, checkerboard promenade, which was originally built in the 1920s and restored in the 1990s.  It offers breathtaking views of the Tuscan archipelago.

Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno

3) Venezia Nuova

The New Venice quarter of Livorno is the most appealing area for tourists.  Here, you’ll find narrow bridges, winding lanes, canals, and merchants’ houses dating from the 17th century.  Stroll down charming Via Borra for a better look at the old storehouses that served the port.   In early August, there’s a cultural festival here with performances, street artists, and canal cruises.  In the evening, this is the liveliest spot in town with many popular bars and restaurants.

4) Mercato delle Vettovaglie

This large, covered market was built in the late 19th century in the Art Nouveau style.  Today, there are more than 200 stalls selling meat, fish, vegetables, cheese, and bread.  The market is open every morning but Sunday.

5) Mediceo Port and Fortezza Vecchia

Livorno’s Old Port is dominated by the Old Fort, which dates from 1534.  You can climb the Matilde Tower for great views of the sea and then reward yourself with a stop at the wine bar.

6) The Meloria

Rising from the sea across from the port, the Meloria is a watchtower first built by the Pisans in the 12th century.  The Medici rebuilt the tower  in 1598 after the Genoese destroyed it in 1286.  And the current tower dates from 1709.  Today, it is the symbol of Livorno.  You’ll see it on posters throughout the town.

7) Museo Fattori

Canal in Livorno

Housed in the Liberty style Villa Mimbelli, the museum has an interesting collection of 19th- and 20th-century Tuscan painting.

8) Mercatino Americano

Originally established to serve the American Military Base, today the Mercatino is the best flea market around.  After nearly sixty years in the Piazza XX Settembre, it recently relocated to the port.

After all this sightseeing in Livorno, you’re bound to work up an appetite.  Take the edge off with Cacciucco, a local rice and fish dish served on a thick slice of bread.

If you’d like to stay over, there are several good Livorno hotels to choose from.

The NH Grand Hotel Palazzo is the best Livorno hotel.   Just off the elegant Terrazza Mascagni promenade in a 19th-century palace, the hotel has beautiful ocean views, outdoor and indoor swimming pools, and a full-service spa.

Hotel Rex has a private beach, a marina, and several outdoor dining venues overlooking the sea.  It’s in a quiet neighborhood not far from Castello del Boccale.

With just 8 charming rooms, tiny Al Teatro – named for nearby Goldoni’s theater – is right in the heart of Livorno.  It provides easy access to all the city’s attractions and breakfast is served in the small, leafy garden.

Located on Piazza dei Quattro Mori, Hotel Gran Duca overlooks the harbor and the Monument of the Four Moors.   The hotel is walking distance to most of Livorno attractions, and you can dine on impeccably fresh seafood right on the plaza.  This is one of the most centrally located hotels in Livorno.

Read more Italy travel articles here.

Livorno Harbour Image Flickr: Matthias Ripp
Terrazza Mascagni Image Flickr: Eric Perrone
Canal in Livorno Italy Image Flickr: taver