Cinque Terre Italy

If you’ve heard of the Cinque Terre, or five lands on the Ligurian coast of Italy, you probably think of them as sleepy, little Italian towns that are off the beaten path. But the Cinque Terre villages are no longer the undiscovered gems they were when Rick Steves introduced them to travelers in the 1990s.

Back then, most travelers came by train from Genoa or La Spezia. And there were only a few Cinque Terre hotels — most accommodations were pensions or rooms in private homes.

You can still take the train. But from spring through fall, there’s also boat service from Portovenere. And driving is an option. Most of the towns now have parking lots with shuttle service down to the village.

If you go now, you’ll no longer have the Cinque Terre to yourself, so you‘ll need to make your reservations well in advance. But you also have an easier time getting there, and you’ll enjoy better hotels and restaurants while you‘re there.

The natural beauty of the region is as spectacular as ever. Tucked into deep ravines, the villages tumble down the rugged Ligurian coast toward the sea. And the sweeping views here will literally take your breath away. Plan to spend most of your time hiking the gorgeous trail that connects the villages, and swimming in the sea.

Monterosso al Mare and Monterosso hotels.

If you’re coming from the north, Monterosso al Mare is about half an hour from the E80 freeway. It’s the most developed of the Cinque Terre towns. And it has the best beaches and the only true four-star hotel in the region. Base yourself here if you value services and convenience more than peace and quiet.

Monterosso’s pretty old town and newer section are connected by a tunnel. There are several churches worth checking out, a ruined castle, a cemetery, and a piazza with a city hall. You can rent water sports equipment, paddle boats, lounges, and umbrellas at the beach. And several cafes serve lunch if you get hungry. If you don’t want to hike to the other towns, although you really should, you can take a boat from the harbor to Vernazza, Manarola, or Riomaggiore.

The best Monterosso al Mare hotels are Hotel Porto Roca, at the start of the Blue Hiking Trail, Hotel Baia, Hotel Villa Steno, Albergo Pasquale, and Suisse Hotel Bellevue.

Vernazza hotels.

Vernazza offers a nice balance between access and seclusion. And it’s probably the prettiest of the villages.
With a beautiful natural harbor, a castle towering over the town, and an ocean-front piazza filled with cafes and bars, what’s not to like.

You can rent a kayak, hike up to the church, or just wander down the narrow lanes past the pastel-colored houses. In the evening, find a terrace with great views of the sea and enjoy a bottle of the local wine.

The best Vernazza hotels are La Mala, Albergo Barbara, and Gianni Franzi.

Corniglia hotels.

Corniglia is the least accessible of the Cinque Terra villages, so it’s a good choice if you want to get away from it all. The views here are some of the best along the coast, although the town itself is not on the water. And it’s surrounded by vineyards.

The wine they make here is very good and you shouldn’t leave without trying it. You can sample 30 different kinds at Enoteca Il Pirun, Corniglia’s wine bar. It goes really well with the specialty of the region, pesto.

Corniglia hotels have limited amenities. But Villa Cecio, which also is a good restaurant, is a good bet.

Manarola hotels.

Cinque Terre hiking trail

When first glimpsed from the path from Corniglia, Manarola will take your breath away. The buildings seem about to fall into the cove, which is one of the best swimming spots around.

Although the main square is new, it’s an attractive addition, and the waterfront is always jumping. One of the most appealing things to do in Manarola is to take a stroll through the surrounding vineyards and lemon groves. The views are terrific and rosemary and valerian scent the air.

Manarola hotels are some of the best in the Cinque Terre. La Torretta, Hotel Marina Piccola, and Ca d’Andrean are all very nice.

Riomaggiore hotels.

The closest town to La Spezia, Riomaggiore serves as the southern gateway to the Cinque Terre. It’s easily reached by train, boat, or car. And as a result, it’s lost some of its old world charm. But it still offers great access to Cinque Terre National Park.

You’ll find more service here, and several Riomaggiore hotels have Internet access and satellite television service. Locanda Ca dei Duxi, Villa Argentina, and La Baia di Rio are all pleasant places to stay.

Cinque Terre Italy Image Flickr:  ezioman
Cinque Terre hiking trail Image Flickr: chuntera

Manarola

One of the five Cinque Terre villages, Manarola has some of the best hotels in the area. Few views are more breathtaking than the first glimpse of the town on the path from Corniglia. From here, the village is almost vertical with pastel houses piled on top of one another. Surrounded by black rock, the emerald bay beckons you to take a dip.

Winemaking, fishing, and producing olive oil are the order of the day here. And you’ll have plenty of opportunities to sample all three.

The harbor is the center of activity in Manarola, so it’s a fun place for people watching. And there are a couple of good swimming spots. One of the beaches — though there’s no sand — has a shower and a ladder from the rocks to the water. A second beach is accessible from the path to Corniglia. It’s more private, but there are no facilities.

In the town, the main square, Piazza Capellini, is a nice new addition. The local “museum” has a display about wine making in the region. The upper part of town has a church with a bell tower and two paintings from the 15th century. There’s also a youth hostel — the only one in the Cinque Terre.

The most rewarding activity in Manarola is a walk through the vineyards. If you follow the wood railing, you’ll go through lemon groves, rosemary, and valerian, and you’ll pass old stone walls and thatches. The cemetery at Punta Bonfiglio is an interesting side trip and the views from there are fantastic.

Nowadays, you can reach Manarola by train, boat, and car. If you drive, a shuttle will take you from the parking lot to the center of town.

Manarola hotels.

The top-rated and most stylish hotel in Manarola, La Torretta has 13 attractive rooms in an old building with a 17th-century tower. The family-run property has been extensively restored and all the rooms have views or terraces. Guests can catch some rays in the solarium. Unlike most Cinque Terra hotels, La Torretta is decorated in a clean, contemporary style with tile floors, leather chairs, and plasma TVs. This is the most expensive hotel in town, but it you’re looking for something special, this is it.

Manarola

Hotel Marina Piccola is a great choice for those who want to be right on the water. Rooms in the building with the restaurant have windows that open right onto the fishing boats and rocks, and the beach is practically right there. If this building is full, most of the rooms in the second building have views. With tile floors, and pastel colored walls, the accommodations here are better than most. And the seafood in the waterfront restaurant is as fresh as it gets.

Ca’ d’Andrean has 10 squeaky-clean rooms with tile floors and simple furnishings up the hill from the train station. There’s no air conditioning, but many of the rooms have balconies with nice views. Breakfast is served in the pretty lemon grove out front.

Carugiu Bed and Breakfast is located on a narrow street in the center of Manarola. It occupies two stories of an old, four-story buildings. Rooms have refrigerators, flat screen TVs, high-speed Internet access, and private baths.

Find Riomaggiore hotels here. And Vernazza hotels here.

Manarola Images Flickr: Victor Chapa

Riomaggiore

If you’re coming from La Spezia or Portovenere, Riomaggiore is the first town you’ll reach in the Cinque Terra. Part of the Cinque Terra National Park – which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site – Riomaggiore is picture-postcard pretty with pastel-colored houses clinging to terraced clifftops and an aquamarine harbor.

It’s best known for the Via dell’Amore or Lover’s Path, a coastal walk with unforgettable views of the sea.

Since Riomaggiore is easily reached by train, ferry, and car, it’s not really off the beaten path anymore. And unlike some of the other Cinque Terre villages, there are a couple of real hotels here with amenities like Internet access, satellite TV, and mini bars.

A few of the Riomaggiore hotels are new construction. Others occupy old buildings that have been modernized and updated. The best have balconies or terraces overlooking the sea.

If you drive, there’s a parking lot above the town. You can catch the shuttle down, or take the elevator.

Other than hiking the beautiful trails, there’s not a lot to do in Riomaggiore. There’s a rocky little beach a few minutes from the harbor. The slabs of marble and alabaster there are good spots for sunbathers. A path from the beach takes you to the Torre Guardiola, the local castle, which is worth visiting for the views.

You can see the Cinque Terre from the other side by renting a kayak from Mar Mar or taking a tour aboard one of the charter boats in the harbor.

Via Columbo is the main drag and you’ll find a market, a pharmacy, a bakery, a bar, and an art gallery there. There are also several cafes with outdoor terraces near the harbor. La Laterna, in the marina, is one of the best for fresh seafood.

Riomaggiore hotels.

Locanda Ca dei Duxi has 16 rooms in a building that dates from the 18th century and in an annex across the street that opened in 2001. Rooms in the older part have more character with exposed beams, tile floors, and views of the castle. All have Internet access, mini bars, satellite TV, and direct-dial telephones. There are also three apartments with kitchenettes and terraces. Because these sleep up to seven, they’re a good choice for families. Dei Duxi is a five-minute walk from the train station or the beach.

Several of the 15 rooms at Villa Argentina have some of the best views in town from their balconies. It’s about a five-minute uphill hike from town. And if your room doesn’t have a balcony, you can enjoy the vistas from the pretty terrace. The bar off the lobby is a pleasant spot for a drink, and rooms have TVs and small safes. If you don’t feel like walking to dinner, room service is available. And you can also rent watersports equipment for a day at the beach.

La Baia di Rio has five rooms in the old family home of the Benacis, and staying here helps support the Val di Serra dei Benaci Vineyard. The property overlooks the village and the sea, and the terraces here have absolutely breathtaking views. The Marco Polo Suite has a fully furnished terrace, a refrigerator, and the use of a kitchen. James Cook has the same features, with kitchen facilities on request. Christopher Columbus is a triple with two large windows with ocean views. Amerigo Vespucci is a double. And Abel Tasman is a double with a furnished terrace. Parking is available on request. La Baia di Rio is very popular, so make reservations here well in advance.

Riomaggiore at dusk

Hotel La Zorza has nine rooms in a 17th-century building that combines modern amenities like satellite TV and mini fridges with beamed ceilings and stone walls. Breakfast is served in a pretty area that has Internet access, and there’s a bar where you can enjoy a glass of wine before dinner.

Cinque Terra Residence Locanda offers accommodations in several little, adjoining houses with separate entrances. All have private bathrooms and many have kitchenettes. The terrace is surrounded by vineyards and lemon trees.

Housed in a building that was once the meeting place of the Holy Virgins Brotherhood and then the local cinema, La Locanda della Compagnia has five modern rooms with air conditioning and satellite TV. It’s beneath Riomaggiore’s parking lot, about a five-minute walk from the beach.

Locanda del Sole is a new complex with ten double rooms that have private baths, mini bars, and satellite TV. It’s built on several levels in the terraced style that’s typical in Riomaggiore. The furnished terrace is a great place to enjoy breakfast or just relax. And there’s a spacious parking lot, making it extremely convenient for drivers.

Find more Cinque Terra and Vernazza hotels here.

Riomaggiore Image Flickr: IanPhilipMiller
Riomaggiore at dusk Image Flickr: PjotrP

Vernazza at dusk

With castle ruins high above the sea, a pretty natural harbor, and a seaside piazza lined with cafes and bars, Vernazza is the most picturesque of the Cinque Terre villages. Unlike some of the others, you can get here by car — there’s a parking lot above the town. From there, you can take a shuttle bus down to the main street.

The narrow alleys, charming arcades, and colorful, slate-roofed houses make Vernazza a place to linger, even though there’s not much to do. The Ligurian pastel hues here are regulated by the local zoning board.

The Tourist Office is in the train station. And there’s Internet access at the Blue Marlin Bar and at the Internet Point. The small stone church with the iron grillwork is the Chapel of Santa Marta. Take the trail from the church for some spectacular views. Or take Trail No. 2 five minutes in either direction — toward Corniglia in the morning or toward Monterossa al Mare at dusk.

On Tuesday mornings, there’s a morning market. You can rent kayaks at the harbor for a tour of the coast. Or hike up to see the castle ruins. Other than that, most visitors relax on the rocky beach or in the cafes and watch the boats bob in the harbor.

There aren’t many Vernazza hotels. Most of the places to stay here are pensions or private rooms called affitta camere. Virtually all Vernazza accommodations have lots of stairs, so if you have difficulty with them, you’ll be happier somewhere else.

Don’t expect lots of services or facilities. Clean, simply furnished rooms are the order of the day here. The one thing you do want is a view. So request a room with an ocean-view terrace or balcony. Barring that, make sure that wherever you stay has a terrace or garden for guests’ use. Most Vernazza hotels don’t have restaurants, but the nearest trattoria is never far away.

Although Vernazza hotels are less expensive than most Italian coastal resorts, the days of the $25 pension are long gone.

La Mala is the most stylish hotel in Vernazza, and its four rooms book well in advance. This is the only place in town with flat-screen TVs with satellite service and mini bars. The décor is striking and tasteful with exposed beams and stone walls. The four rooms share a magnificent stone terrace overlooking the sea. Rooms 31 and 19 have views of the sea. Rates here are from 150 – 200 euros.

Located right on Piazza Marconi, Albergo Barbara occupies the top two floors of an old house. The views of the harbor from the two doubles on the main floor are some of the best in town. There are nine rooms, some with shared and some with private baths. Rooms are simple with tile floors, and those without private baths have a sink. Doubles start at 60 euros a night.

Vernazza

One of the better restaurants in town, Trattoria Gianni Franzi also has 23 rooms in two buildings. Not all the rooms in the older building have private bathrooms. But they compensate with tiny balconies with sensational views. Rooms in the newer building don’t have views but there’s a nice terrace garden for guests. The rate here includes a full breakfast.

Affitta Camere Elizabetta, also known as Elisabette Carro has two wonderful terraces with 360-degree views, tables, and deck chairs. There are a total of four rooms. All have private baths, and all but one have balconies. There are two suites with queen bedrooms on the ground and first floor. The ground-floor unit has a kitchen without a stove.

Giuliano Basso built his Camere himself from the local stone. The four rooms here are above a ravine of orange trees. There’s a splendid stone terrace, and a common area with refrigerator, dishes, and towels. The family room sleeps four.

Find more Italy hotels here.

1) La Mala
2) Albergo Barbara
3) Gianni Franzi
4) Affitta Camere Elisabetta
5) Giuliano Basso Camere

View Vernazza Hotels in a larger map

Vernazza at Dusk Image Flickr: rayced
Vernazza Image Flickr: Allie_Caulfield