Barcelona’s Palau Nacional

Barcelona has an original style all its own. Most of Europe’s major design trends made their way here, were influenced by Catalonian sensibilities, and emerged distinctively different. Which makes shopping for antiques in Barcelona especially enjoyable. The treasures you find here will be truly unique.

If you’re lucky, you’ll find an example of Barcelona’s fabulous version of Art Nouveau, known here as Modernisme.

Barcelona’s antique shops are grouped together on several streets, most of which are in the charming Gothic Quarter or Bari Gotic. You’ll find everything from antique dealers selling museum-quality furniture to vintage clothing stores.

Carrer del Banys Nous is the traditional home of Barcelona’s antique shops, although lately, some hip clothing boutiques have been creeping in. You’ll find teacups, tapestries, and vintage fashions at Heritage. And L’Arca de L’Avia sell antique textiles, lace, and linens.

Barcelona’s Bari Gotic

Not far away, Carrer de la Palla also has several antique stores including Artur Ramon Art which specializes in 18th and 19th-century art and objets d’arts. Angel Batlle at number 23 has old posters, maps, and postcards.

In the Eixample district, at Passeig de Gracia 55 (in the Bulevard Rosa shopping center), the Bulevard des Antiquarius has more than 70 antique shops selling furniture, jewelry, paintings, crystal, and dolls. Prices here are firm and most purchases come with a written guarantee.

In addition to its antique shops, Barcelona has several markets that sell antiques of varying quality.

If you’re willing to sift through some junk, El Encants, Barcelona’s biggest flea market, has a little bit of everything. It’s on the north side of the traffic circle at Placa de les Glories Catalanes on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Coin and stamp collectors should go to the Sunday-morning market in Placa Reial. And book collectors will enjoy the Sunday market at Sant Antoni.

Barcelona

The Mercat Gòtic de Antiguitats takes place every Thursday in the Placa Nova, the square next to the Cathedral. Prices here are higher because of the number of tourists, so do a little bargaining.

At the end of Las Ramblas near the port, the Fira Brocante Antique and Flea Market is held on Saturdays and Sundays. Look for the statue of Christopher Columbus. We found a great cast-iron dog there that we use as a door stop. Since it was the first day of our trip, we lugged it all over Spain and Portugal, but it’s now a family treasure. You should not pay full price here.

If you’re visiting Barcelona, be sure to leave yourself enough time to do some treasure hunting in the city’s charming antique shops.

Find Paris shopping tips here.

Barcelona’s Palau Nacional Image Flickr: harshilshah100
Barcelona’s Bari Gotic Image Flickr: puroticorico
Barcelona Image Flickr: papalars

Victoria Station

London has nine major train stations, including Victoria, King’s Cross, Waterloo, Paddington, and St. Pancras. And before you travel by rail, it’s helpful to know what to expect at the train station. See the map and legend to get the lay of the land.

Victoria Station is the second busiest rail station in London with 115 million passengers a year. That’s nearly twice the traffic at Heathrow. Trains to Kent, Surry, and Sussex leave from here. And the Gatwick Airport Express terminates here. There’s also an Underground or Tube station in the basement.

Victoria Station Map

One of the world’s most glamorous trains, the Venice Simplon Orient Express, departs from Platform 2.

The station first opened in 1860. At that time, it was actually two separate stations – the western side, owned by the Brighton Line had six platforms and ten tracks, and the Chatham side had nine tracks.

When the stations were remodeled in 1908, the Brighton side was completed in red brick and the Chatham side was done in the Edwardian style in white stone. In 1924, the wall was removed and the two terminals were merged.

The Victoria Place shopping center was added in the 1980s, and today, there are two dozen retail outlets, including W.H. Smith, Boots, Carrington Brown, Swatch, and the Tie Rack. If you’re hungry, you can choose from more than forty food outlets – everything from Krispy Kreme doughnuts to sushi.

 

Victoria Station Legend

It’s helpful to know which platform your train leaves from before you arrive at the station. National Rail Enquiries has live departure information posted at http://realtime.nationalrail.co.uk/ldb/summary.aspx?T=VIC.

Read more Great Britain travel articles here.

Victoria Station Image Flickr: OliverN5

Roman Sunset

If you’re visiting Rome during spring or summer, stay at a hotel with a top-side patio, or at the very least, have a drink at one of the roof bars listed below. It won’t be cheap, but it will likely become a very special memory of your visit.

Here’s our list of the best roof bars in Rome. Since they’re scattered all over town, each has a unique view. So why not visit a different one every night?

Not far from Piazza Navona, the bar and restaurant at the Hotel Raphael looks across at the dome of Santa Maria della Pace. If you lean over, you can see the cloister designed by Bramante, which dates from 1500. The angel on top of Castel Sant’Angelo and the twin horsemen from Piazza Venezia are visible in the distance. Although this is one of the best views in town, few tourists make their way here. To reach the roof, take the elevator to the top floor and then climb a couple flights of steps. With all the hedges and shrubs, this multi-level terrace truly is a roof garden. An absolutely magical place.

Terrace at the Hotel Eden

Located on Pizza della Repubblica, Hotel Exedra overlooks the piazza’s fountains, Diocletian’s Baths and Michelangelo’s Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli. What’s really special here is the roof-top swimming pool. Non-guests can take a dip for a fee, and then enjoy a cocktail at Sensus, the rooftop bar. The reflections on the pool at night make the ambience even more romantic. If you choose not to eat here, there are several excellent restaurants in the neighborhood.

Across from the Villa Borghese and Borghese Gardens, the Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese is in the old Ludovisi-Boncompagni family palazzo. There really are no better views in Rome than from the La Bellvista restaurant on the 7th floor of the hotel. And it’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. So if you can’t make it for sunset, come for a meal. Groups of tables and chairs are separated by small topiaries and the views extend all the way from St. Peter’s to the hills beyond the villa. Happy hour on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 6PM to 9PM includes antipasto. If you can afford it, three of the suites here have private terraces.

With St. Peter’s in the distance, Piazza Venezia to the left, and the towers of Trinita del Monti right below you, La Terraza at the Hotel Eden serves up a view that’s been enjoyed by countless celebrities and international movers and shakers. The restaurant here has one Michelin star, but you can come for a drink, it you prefer. For a sneak peak, check out their web cam at http://www.hoteledenview.com.

The Pantheon is our favorite building in Rome, and you haven’t seen the dome until you’ve seen it from eye level. You can do just that from the roof bar at the historic Grand Hotel de la Minerve. It’s located on Piazza della Minerva, which is where you’ll find the Bernini sculpture of the elephant and the obelisk. You can dine in the La Cesta restaurant or have drinks at Le Cupole. Located in a 17th-century palace, the Minerva is a short stroll from Piazza Navona or the Trevi Fountain.

View from the Eden terrace

Offering a sweeping panorama that takes in most of Imperial Rome — including the Colisseum, the Imperial Forum, and the Domus Aurea — Hotel Gladiatori Palazzo Manfredi is a good choice after dark when the monuments are all lit. You can dine in the restaurant by candlelight, or have drinks and appetizers in the American Bar. Sipping cocktails with the Colisseum as a backdrop is a real pinch-me moment. If the terrace looks familiar, it’s a popular location for TV and movie shoots.

The newcomer to the party is Zest Bar in the Radisson Blu Es Hotel. The location near Termini station isn’t our favorite, and the view isn’t the best. But it has a modern, South Beach vibe that’s missing from the others. The rooftop pool ups the cool ante, and there are always model types enjoying – and making – the scene.

Read about the best restaurants in Rome here.

1) Hotel Raphael
2) Hotel Exedra
3) Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese
4) Hotel Eden
5) Grand Hotel de la Minerve
6) Hotel Atlante Star
7) Hotel Gladiatori Palazzo Manfredi
8) Zest

View Rome’s best roof bars in a larger map

Roman Sunset Image Flickr: Daveness_98
Terrace at the Hotel Eden Image and View from the Eden terrace Image Flickr: Wolfiewolf

Tulip time in Holland

European river cruises have a lot going for them – wonderful scenery, intimate experiences, and hassle-free shore excursions that don’t involve tenders or long bus rides. No wonder they’re gaining in popularity every year.

One of the most enjoyable European river cruises is a “tulip time” cruise through the Netherlands and Belgium when the spring flowers are at their peak. At Kuekenghof Gardens, you’ll see 70 acres planted with 7 million bulbs. It’s a riot of color you’ll never forget.

More than 90% of the world’s flower supply comes from here. After a long, grey winter, it’s just what the doctor ordered.

The tulip season is relatively short, and most of these trips are offered only in March and April. So you’ll have to act fast to enjoy one this year. But if you do, you’ll be able to take advantage of substantial savings.

Tulip time cruises on AMA Waterways.

AMA Waterways has two river cruise vessels in Holland and Belgium this spring – the 148-passenger Amalyra, which has its maiden voyage last year and the 148-passenger Amalegro, which launched in 2007.

Most of the staterooms on these ships have French balconies, and all have in-room infotainment systems that include Movies, a music library, English-language TV, and Internet access.

Red and white wine are included with dinner each evening and there are bikes on board for passengers’ use.

Kinderdijk windmills

They offer seven-night cruises that begin and end in Amsterdam. Along the way, there are visits to Volendam, Edam – to sample the cheese – Arnhem, Nijmegan, Antwerp, Ghent, Willemstad, Dordrecht, Utrecht, and spectacular Keukenhof Gardens.

At press time, cabins were still available on April departures and fares were starting at $1,999 per person. Contact AMA Waterways for details.

Tulip time cruises on Avalon Waterways.

With four riverboats in the Netherlands this spring, Avalon Waterways has availability on several departures. The Avalon Artistry was one of Conde Nast’s Top Cruise Ships in 2009. The interiors were designed by Hans Sabert and the staterooms are some of the biggest of any riverboat.

The 138-passenger Avalon Felicity is new this year and features a whirlpool on the sky deck. With the bridge at the rear, Avalon Tranquility and Avalon Imagery offer stunning views from their lounges and restaurants.

Kuekenhof Gardens

Avalon’s cruises are also seven nights and begin and end in Amsterdam, but the itinerary is slightly different. After leaving Amsterdam, you’ll visit Arnhem, Dordrecht, and Kinderdijk to see the charming group of windmills. From there, you’ll call at Antwerp, Ghent, Middleburg, Rotterdam with an excursion to Keukenhof Gardens, and return to Amsterdam for an overnight.

Fares start at $2,049 per person – a $2,000 per couple savings. Contact Avalon or Vacationstogo for more information.

Tulip time cruises on Uniworld.

Those with a little more time will enjoy a 9-night cruise on Uniworld’s River Duchess, River Empress, or River Queen. All carry around 134 passengers and include complimentary wine with dinners, portable audio systems for shore visits, and complimentary bicycles.

These sailings include medieval Bruges, which is one of the most delightful cities in the Benelux countries.

Passengers embark in Amsterdam and spend the night there aboard their ship. The next day, you’ll visit Keukenhof Gardens and then sail for Hoorn. Other port calls include Enkhuizen, Nijmegen, Rotterdam, Veere, Antwerp, and Bruges.

The cruise ends in Antwerp.

Fares start at $1,849 per person. Contact Uniworld or Vacationstogo for availability.

At press time, Viking River Cruises tulip cruises were virtually sold out.

Read more about European river cruises.

Tulip time in Holland and Kuekenhof Gardens Images Flickr: ComùnicaTI
Kinderdijk windmills Imagle Flickr: my name is Ingo

They reserved your flights, hotels, and rental car with a Computerized Reservations System (CRS) like Sabre or Apollo. And when they were done, out popped a written itinerary showing every detail of your travels – in triplicate.

They folded it in thirds, tucked it into your ticket jacket along with your ticket – this is the old days we’re talking about – and you were all set. All your confirmation numbers, hotel addresses and phone numbers, etc. in one place.

But those days are long gone, and if you’re like most of us, you make your reservations yourself, online. Consequently, you have emails from all over confirming your arrangements. And while you really should carry all those hardcopies with you, shuffling through them to find what you’re looking for is a bad idea.

It’s much smarter to create an itinerary that shows all your travel arrangements at a glance. There are several travel websites that will help you do this, such as Tripit or NileGuide. But for years, I’ve used an Excel spread sheet to create an itinerary that lists everything I need to know on a couple of pages.

It ain’t pretty. But it’s fast and easy to do, free, and over the years it’s saved us countless hassles.

We always pack a copy in each of our bags, especially if we’re checking them. If our bag does get misplaced, the itinerary shows where we’ll be, when. It also provides contact information so we can be reached anywhere.

Twice, this has helped us recover our bags quickly. In Buenos Aires, our bag was returned to us in hours because the itinerary made us easy to locate.

Here’s the template I use. It describes in detail a week’s worth of travel arrangements – flights, hotels, transfers, tours, dinner reservations, ferries, and more – on a single 8-1/2” x 11” piece of paper.

You can do it any way you like, but here’s why I like this layout:

1) Numbering the days makes it easy to figure out things like how much the pet sitter will cost or how many days to stop newspaper delivery. And once I get a total trip cost, it’s easy to calculate the per diem.

2) Showing the days of the week alerts me to possible closures that may impact what we can do. In many places, most things are closed on Sundays, so that’s a good day to visit the museums. Many museums are closed on Mondays, so I’ll check to see when they’re open and make sure we have time for a visit on Sunday or Tuesday. It’s also helpful to know when you’re going to be somewhere on a weekend. As a rule, you’re more likely to need reservations for restaurants, clubs, sightseeing cruises, etc. on Saturday night. If you’re in town on a Tuesday, you might be able to get by without them.

3) The rest is pretty self-explanatory. There’s room for detailed contact information and confirmation numbers, as well as any additional notes.

We email the itinerary to friends and family so they’ll know where we’ll be and leave a copy for the pet sitter in case she needs to reach us. I use a yellow marker to highlight the hotel names and telephone numbers.

Find more trip planning ideas here.

The American River

When most people think about river rafting trips, Colorado or Idaho immediately spring to mind. But California has some excellent river rafting and most of it’s not far from San Francisco, Lake Tahoe, or Sacramento. So if you’re visiting Northern California, why not add some excitement to your itinerary.

Half-, full-, and two-day trips are available. And you’ll get to experience nature at its spectacular best. Plus, you’ll really get your heart racing.

Rafting season runs from around April until September. And there are several rivers to choose from. Whether you’re a beginner or a veteran whitewater rat, there’s a trip that’s just right for you.

River rafting the South Fork of the American River.

The South Fork of the American River caught the public’s eye in 1848, when gold was discovered in the town of Coloma. Today, the South Fork is the most popular river in California for whitewater rafting trips. With 50 majors rapids in 21 miles, it’s no wonder. There are relaxing stretches of calm water, plenty of Class 3 rapids, and beautiful wilderness scenery too.

The South Fork flows from Chili Bar Reservoir to Folsum Lake through dozens of rapids and extremely varied Sierra terrain. You’ll pass through rocky gorges and the rolling foothills of the Sierra Nevada range. In the springtime, you’ll see fields filled with wildflowers, and there’s plenty of color in the fall.

The put-in spot for these trips is an hour from Sacramento and about four hours from San Francisco. And trips on the South Fork are suitable for everyone. Beginners will have the time of their lives negotiating the rapids known as the Meatgrinder, Satan’s Cesspool, and the Troublemaker.

Class Rapids on the American River

Spring snow-melt run off makes the South Fork especially exciting in April and May, and because fewer people are traveling that time of year, you’ll enjoy lots of personal attention. Mid-week visits are also less crowded.

On full-day trips, a picnic lunch buffet is served on the river bank. And there’s usually time for a swim in the cool, clear water. Prices start at around $125. All Outdoors and American River Rafting offer good programs on the South Fork.

River rafting trips on the Middle Fork of the American River.

Those who are looking for a little more excitement can opt for a trip on the Middle Fork of the American. With Class III and IV rapids, it’s challenging enough for experienced river rafters, but also suitable for adventurous beginners. And there are usually fewer people than on the South Fork.

This section of the river is so beautiful and dramatic that it’s been used in countless films. The river runs through a deep, remote canyon with walls that tower 2,000 feet overhead. It stretches 18 miles past rocky cliffs and forests. Next to the river, there are crystal-clear pools and waterfalls you can explore.

The river roars through Tunnel Chute rapid on its way into a 90-foot rock tunnel created by miners in the 19th century. You’ll also navigate Ruck-A-Chucky Falls – a 25-foot drop with huge granite walls on either side. Unforgettable.

One-, two-, and three-day trips are available. And because the water is controlled by a dam, the water level is consistent all season long. A lunch buffet is served on one-day trips, and all meals are served on overnight trips. Contact American River and American Whitewater for more information.

River rafting trips on the Merced River.

The Yosemite Valley is one of the most beautiful wilderness areas in the country and the Merced River flows right through it. Designated a National Wild and Scenic River, it offers both novice and experienced white-water rafters a thrilling roller coaster ride with huge waves and churning rapids.

The meeting place for rafting trips is only 40 minutes from the entrance to Yosemite National Park and 3-1/2 hours from the Bay Area. To make the most of your time, plan to spend a day rafting the river, and a day exploring the park.

The season here is a short one. During peak snow-melt, this is a Class IV run. As the flow subsides, it becomes a Class III. And by mid-July the flow is usually too low for rafting. One-day trips run a 16-mile section of the Upper Merced. Depending on conditions, you may need to wear a wetsuit.

Since these are paddle-raft trips, you’ll need to help row and navigate the raft, so be prepared to participate. Contact Zephyr Whitewater for more information.

Read about other whitewater river rafting trips here.

The American River Image Flickr: aresauburn™
Class Rapids on the American River Image Flickr: dizznan

Harrods Food Hall

If you’re like us, eating well is the best part of traveling. So in addition to all kinds of restaurants, we also include markets, specialty shops, and food stores in our itinerary. They’re great places to pick up souvenirs, buy gifts for friends, and find supplies for a picnic lunch.

The best food stores are destinations in themselves. And you can learn a lot about local culture by strolling the aisles. One look at the potato chip section in Marks and Spencer will tell you that today’s Britain is a multicultural melting pot.

Most of the best food stores are centrally located, so you don’t usually have to venture too far off the beaten path. Just be sure to allow plenty of time to browse.

Trying to choose the best food store in Paris is a bit of a challenge. From Fauchon to Alain Ducasse’s Boulangepicier, there are wonderful food shops all over the city.

But for most travelers, Le Grande Epicerie in the Bon Marche department store is a one-stop wonder. With more than 9,000 square feet of gourmet delights, it’s a foodie paradise. You’ll find, sinful desserts, cheeses, sausages, produce, oysters, coffee from all over the world, spices, more than 80 kinds of bread, condiments, and a huge selection of prepared foods.

In Milan, Peck has been in business since 1883. It has 10,000 square feet on three floors of the best food and wine in Italy. Delicious cured meats, cheeses, pastries, olive oils, and hand-made pastas are beautifully displayed. Almost everything is made fresh daily with Italian ingredients and the gelato is the best in town. There are 5,000 kinds of wine in the basement. Peck also has the most fabulous window displays in the world, especially at Christmas.

Opened in Vienna 1862, Julius Meinl was originally a caterer to the Hapsburgs. The store that bears his name stocks 16,000 delicacies from all over the world, including 400 kinds of cheese. It’s located on the pedestrian-only Kohlmarkt, a short stroll from the Hofburg Palace. You can wash down your caviar or oysters with vodka, dine at the restaurant upstairs — one of the best in the city — or visit the wine bar in the basement. A box of coffee, espresso, or tea from here makes a lovely gift.

Most of London’s department stores, including Harvey Nichols and Fortnum & Mason, have food halls. But if you can only visit one, make it Harrods. Not only is there more fabulous food than you can imagine, with its Art Nouveau tile work and artistic displays it’s a treat for the eyes as well. If you’re hungry, you’ll be spoilt for choice with fish and chips, a pizzeria, dim sum, a delicatessen, a sushi bar, a Lebanese restaurant, and the Veuve Clicquot Champagne and oyster bar. There’s even a Krispy Kreme doughnuts. It’s magical at Christmas time.

Peck in Milan

In Barcelona, Club del Gourmet located in the Corte Ingles department store on Placa de Catalunya is the best place in town for gourmet food. If you’re interested in ham, this is the place. There are also delicious pastries, exquisite chocolates, cheeses from France, bison from Canada, and seafood from Portugal. While you’re in town, Mercat de la Boqueria is one of the most enjoyable in Europe.

Berlin’s premier department store, KaDeWe, has 30 individual food stalls, including products from Paul Bocuse, Lenotre, Hediard, and Fauchon. Poultry from Bresse, Brittany Oysters, Argentine beef, and New Zealand lamb are just some of the 34,000 treats you’ll find here. The selection of fish and seafood is especially impressive. Complete your purchase with one of the 3,400 kinds of wine.

Read more food and wine articles here.

Harrods Food Hall Image Flickr: Wolfiewolf
Peck in Milan Image Flickr: BruceTurner

Bottega Yountville

Although wine country is best known for its French restaurants, there are also some great Italian restaurants in the valleys.

Napa Valley Italian restaurants

With a more ambitious menu than most Italian restaurants, Bistro Don Giovanni is a popular spot in downtown Napa. Starters include an excellent Pumpkin Ravioli in brown butter sauce with sage, Carpaccio, a cheese plate, and a salad of beets and haricots verts. Pizzas emerge from the wood-fired oven thin and crispy. Try fig, caramelized onion, gorgonzola, arugula, and Balsamic vinegar. Paccheri with a Sonoma duck Bolognese and rabbit cacciatore are just the thing on a cool, fall evening. Or you could opt for grilled California sea bass or steak frites.

If you can, grab a table on the outdoor terrace near the fireplace. Bisto Don Giovanni’s owners run Scala Bistro in San Francisco and they change the menu with the seasons. As you’d expect, the wine list is very good. Reservations are a good idea, especially on weekends.

Uva Trattoria & Bar is usually jumping. In fact, they have jazz five nights a week. So this isn’t the place for a quiet, romantic dinner for two. But it’s a convivial place with good food and a lively bar. The little fried rice balls called arancini are an addictive starter. Weekly specials might include baked gnocchi with burrata cheese and pomodoro sauce, bucatini al’amatriciana, and pan-roasted sea bass. In addition to the specials, there are usually five or six pizzas, ten pasta dishes, and three or four entrees.

Celebrity chef/Food Network TV host Michael Chiarello opened Bottega in the old V Marketplace in Yountville a year ago. Zagat named Bottega the top newcomer of the year and Esquire included it in their list of the Top 20 new restaurants. The design is casual but modern with brick walls, stone fireplaces, and plenty of couches for lounging. Although it’s a huge space, it’s divided into more manageable areas, and the patio is very inviting. This is not the place to watch your figure. The soft boiled egg in the Pecorino cheese flan is deep fried. And green eggs and ham comes swimming in Cambazola crema. The salumi is made in house and the crudo is sensational. All the pastas are made from scratch and sauces made with duck, rabbit, and chanterelles are hearty and filling. Braised lamb shanks, short ribs, duck confit, and whole, wood-oven roasted fish are the stars of the secondi.

Green Eggs and Ham

Ten years ago, Chiarello was the partner/chef at Tra Vigne in St. Helena. One of the most romantic restaurants in the valley, it has a lovely vine-covered patio that seems like it was plucked from a Tuscan hill town. It’s magical at night when the trees are dressed with little white lights. Inside, the stylish dining room has brick walls, high ceilings, and a hand-carved bar. Papperdelle with rabbit ragu and wild mushrooms, carbonara with guanciale and organic eggs, and duck confit risotto pave the way for wood-oven roasted Dungeness crab and pan-seared Quinault River steelhead. The 200-wine list changes frequently.

Just around the corner on Main Street, Pizzeria Tra Vigne serves authentic Neapolitan pizzas in a casual setting. The garlic rolls are perfect for taking the edge off while you wait for your pizza, but they’re hard to stop eating. There are several salads, pasta dishes like spaghetti and meatballs and shrimp fettuccini, and a nice selection of oven-baked flatbread with salad on top. But it would be a shame to come here and not order pizza. Traditional pies like Margherita and Ducati with Italian sausage, mushrooms, and sun-dried tomatoes compete with unconventional pizzas like Positano with gulf shrimp and fried lemons, and Gardiniere with brocolli, cauliflower, and spicy garlic soffrito.

Sonoma Valley Italian restaurants.

Red Grape Pizzeria

Sonoma is one of the most charming towns in California Wine Country. Shops, hotels, and restaurants line its 19th-century plaza and there’s a farmer’s market on Tuesday evenings in summer.

The Della Santina family comes from Lucca, Italy, and they’ve been serving Tuscan-inspired cuisine in Sonoma since 1990. They found a beautiful old stone building to house their restaurant. You’ll find all the usual pastas and entrees — the gnocchi della nonna is especially good — but what’s really special here are the spit-roasted meats. You can choose from chicken, pork, rabbit, or duck. Or if you can’t choose, you can order skewers with three different meats. The 3-course dinner special is a good value at $30 per person. On Tuesdays, they have a prix fixe menu that features Italian wine pairings. If the weather’s nice, opt for a table out on the brick patio. There’s a nice selection of wine for less than $40 a bottle.

It’s hard to visit wine country without enjoying all the world-class restaurants. But sometimes, you just want a pizza and a cold draught beer. If you’re in Sonoma, Red Grape Pizzeria is a great spot. They have dozens of wines by the glass and many bottles for around $30. You can start with an antipasto, one of the tasty flatbreads, or a salad. If you don’t want pizza, there’s a nice selection of wraps and Panini — who doesn’t want pork and brie with caramelized onions and sliced green apple. The imaginative pizza list include clams casino with apple wood-smoked bacon, roasted duck and gorgonzola with a Cabernet reduction, and shrimp scampi.

1) Bistro Don Giovanni
2) Uva Trattoria
3) Bottega
4) Tra Vigne
5) Pizzeria Tra Vigne
6) Della Santina’s
7) Red Grape Pizzeria

View Italian Restaurants in Napa and Sonoma in a larger map

See our list of the best Italian restaurants in San Francisco here.

Virgin Cross Country train

You’ll be able to drink in the scenery without worrying whether you’re on the wrong side of the road, and you’ll arrive at your destination ready to go.

Most British trains are modern and comfortable, and with more than 2,500 rail stations, there’s train service to virtually everyplace you would want to visit. The busiest routes have several departures a day. For the most part, rail stations are centrally located, so you usually arrive in the heart of town. The stations are also transportation hubs, so if you need to catch a bus or a taxi, there will likely be one right out front.

There are more than 20 private rail companies in Britain, but National Rail serves as a clearinghouse that coordinates fares, schedules, and ticketing. Their web site has fares and schedules for all the rail lines.

On most trains, two classes of service are available — standard and first class. Seating in standard class is like you’d find on an airline, with a table in between the seats. First class is a little roomier and more comfortable, and refreshments are often included in the fare. But since most trips are relatively short, there’s little reason to pay for First Class.

Victoria Station

You don’t need to make reservations in advance, though it’s a good idea during peak travel times or if you want a sleeper car. You can buy food on board — at the restaurant car on intercity trains, in the buffet car, or from the food trolley on shorter journeys.

There’s space for your luggage above and between the seats and at the ends of the individual cars. And since porters are a thing of the past, you’ll probably have to handle it yourself. So don’t carry more than you can manage. Although there are some overnight trains in Britain, since the distances covered are not great, it makes more sense to travel during daylight hours.

Rail fares vary quite a bit and can be affordable or expensive depending on when you book and when you travel. Most online ticket brokers charge the same fare, so where you buy your ticket isn’t as important as when. Like airlines, trains now offer nonrefundable fares that are less expensive. And mid-day travel usually costs less than trains during peak travel times.

Three types of fares are most common: Advance, Anytime, and Off-Peak. Advance fares can save you as much as 75%, but they’re very restrictive.

If you’re taking more than a couple of trips by train, a Rail Pass can be a real money saver. There are several kinds available.

Britrail Passes can save you time and money.

British Rail class train

With a Britrail England Flexi Pass, you have unlimited travel on any scheduled train in England for four, eight, or twelve days during a one- or two-month period. The Britrail GB Flexi Pass adds trains in Scotland and Wales to the equation.

As the name implies, the Britrail England Consecutive Pass lets you travel on four, eight, fifteen, or twenty-two consecutive days during a one-month period. The GB Consecutive Pass adds Scotland and Wales.

The Britrail England Consecutive Pass allows you access to England’s railways over a selected number of consecutive days. The England Consecutive Pass is available for 4-, 8-, 15-, 22-day and 1-month periods.

Youth, Senior, Family, and Party passes are available. And you’ll need to buy your Britrail Pass before you leave home. They’re not sold it Britain. You can activate it at any rail station. Make reservations in advance or just show up when you want to travel. Scotland and Wales also offer country-specific passes.

Find fares, schedules, and more information at http://www.nationalrail.co.uk. Or learn more about Britrail passes here.

You can read more Great Britain travel planning tips here.

Virgin Cross Country train Image Flickr: mattbuck4950
Victoria Station Image Flickr: wsuph001
British Rail class train Image Flickr: mattbuck4950

Le Chateau at Disneyland Paris

The nearly 5,000-acre park is larger than the Disneyland in California, and almost one-fifth as large as the city of Paris. It’s manicured to perfection with sparking fountains, beautiful plantings, and pretty plazas.

Located in the suburb of Marne-la-Vallee, it’s about a 45-minute train ride from Paris. The RER commuter express will drop you within walking distance, and trains run every 15 minutes or so. You can also take a shuttle bus from the airports or as part of a package.

As in the United States, admission is not cheap, but multi-day and park-hopper passes offer some savings. If you’re visiting between June and September, using Fast Pass will reduce the amount of time you spend in lines.

The entertainment complex of the park is Disney Village, which has ten restaurants, several bars and dance clubs, shops, a 15-screen multiplex and an IMAX 3-D theater. Admission to the Village is free although some of the bars have cover charges.

Walt Disney Studios

Disney characters, many of whom are multi lingual, are on hand to entertain the kids, and the dungeon of Sleeping Beauty’s Castle produces a dragon that’s guaranteed to scare the pants off them. And there are frequent parades and stage shows for kids of all ages.

Like its American counterparts, Disneyland Paris has Main Street USA, Frontierland, Adventureland, Fantasyland, and Discoveryland. A train circles the perimeter, making it easier to get to your favorite attractions. They’re all here – Pirates of the Caribbean, Big Thunder Mountain, Indiana Jones and the Temple of Peril, and Space Mountain Mission 2, plus new attractions like Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast.

Walt Disney Studios, which opened in 2002, provide an up-close look at modern moviemaking, with an emphasis on animation. There’s a huge sound studio filled with props, a television studio, special effects displays, and a live stunt show. Trying to do both the Eurodisney and the studio in a single day is way too ambitious.

Eurodisney Paris hotels.

Toy Story

The most luxurious is the Disneyland Hotel, modeled after an old, albeit huge, Victorian mansion. It’s rated 4 Star de Luxe by the French Tourist Board and is located at the entrance to the park. If you want to be able to just stroll on over to the park, this is the place.

The 1,093-room Newport Bay hotel is the largest in France. Overlooking a man-made lake, it looks like a 19th-century New England resort. Disney’s Hotel New York is Art Deco in design. Sequoia Lodge has lots of wood and slate, and Cheyenne and Santa Fe are the least expensive Disney Hotels. All of them are a five-minute, free shuttle ride from the park.

Most of the major French chains have hotels within a few miles of the park, and most offer free shuttles. The Radisson Blu is on the Disneyland Golf Course. And the Dream Castle Hotel Disneyland is a 4-star hotel designed to resemble a 17th-century chateau.

Find more things to do in Paris here.

Le Chateau at Disneyland Paris Image Flickr: tipoyock
Walt Disney Studios Image Flickr: coconut wireless
Toy Story Image Flickr: Wolfgang Jung

Zucchini blossoms

The best way to experience Roman cooking, aside from eating in all those fabulous Italian restaurants, is to do it yourself at one of Rome’s lively cooking classes. Not only will you learn to make Italian foods like fried zucchini blossoms, risotto, and panna cotta, you’ll also make new friends and have a terrific meal.

From a half-day cooking class to a week-long culinary program, there are plenty of options to choose from. And many include field trips to local food purveyors.

Diane Seed has written several best-selling Italian cookbooks, including The Top 100 Pasta Sauces and Roman Kitchen. Although British, she has lived in Rome for 30 years on the top floor of a Renaissance Palazzo overlooking the Forum.

She knows Rome and Italian cooking inside out, and her students rave about her delightful insights into Roman culture.

Tomatoes at Campo dei Fiori market

Her morning classes include a visit to the Campo dei Fiori market and lunch prepared by the students. Her five-day courses run from 10:30AM to 2PM on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, and from 6:30PM to 9:30PM on Wednesday. Two- and three-day classes can sometimes be arranged. Details are available at http://www.italiangourmet.com/index2.php?cPath=21

Torre di Babelle is a language school that also offers cooking classes in Rome. Students in their three-hour course prepare an aperitif, appetizer, first course (usually a pasta), second course, vegetable, and dessert. Get more information at http://www.torredibabele.com/cooking.htm.

Chef Andrea Consoli teaches 3-4 hour classes at La Fate restaurant in the Trastevere neighborhood. Students prepare a four-course meal in the kitchen of the restaurant and then enjoy it together. Andrea is a real charmer, and at just 50 Euros per person, his classes are a real bargain.

Tagliatelle Carbonara

The day begins with a trip to the market in the Testaccio quarter and a visit to the Volpetti shop. There’s no menu planned for the class — students just pick up whatever looks best at the market and then take the bus back to Maureen’s place, where they prepare lunch together. Contact her at info@maureenbfant.com.

Those who don’t want to cook but want to learn more about dining in Rome can take one of her Eat Like the Romans Eat offered by Context. Find out more at http://www.contexttravel.com/home

Find more things to do in Rome here.

Zucchini blossoms Image Flickr: ljcybergal
Tomatoes at Campo dei Fiori market Image Flickr: hslo
Tagliatelle Carbonara Image Flickr: FotoosVanRobin

Carpaccio from Drago Centro

But that doesn’t mean there aren’t terrific Italian restaurants in South California. They’re just not all concentrated in one area. Which means that no matter where you are, there’s probably one that’s not too far away.

An unassuming little place that’s nearly always packed, Angelini Osteria serves some of the best Italian food in Southern California. Start your meal with Pumpkin Tortelli with butter, sage, and asparagus or Bombolotti all’Amatriciana with guanciale, San Marzano tomatoes, and hot pepper. If you love Roman food, there’s even warm tripe. The whole sea bass encrusted in salt and herbs is sensational, and the grilled bistecca here will remind you of your trip to Florence. Lasanga Verde, a homage to the chef’s grandmother, is the most popular dish. Topped with frizzled spinach, it’s a rich, dense block of meat, pasta, and cheese. Specials each day features Italian classics like saltimbocca, oxtail, and porchetta. The wine list has lots of affordable Italian wines.

Celestino Drago has several restaurants in Los Angeles, but Drago Centro is the best Italian restaurant on the Eastside. The sleek, stylish décor and downtown City National Plaza location make this one of the most sophisticated and expensive Italian restaurants in town. No spaghetti and meatballs here. The glass wine cellar displays some of Drago’s rare Italian wines. But don’t worry — there are plenty of reasonable selections and 100 wines available by the glass. The concept here is to take traditional Italian dishes and update them with modern techniques and ingredients. The six-course tasting menu is a good value at $75 per person. Dungeness crab tagliolini with tomatoes and basil and pappardelle with roasted pheasant and morel mushrooms are achingly good. If you can, save room for the little doughnuts called I Bomboloni.

Also owned by the Drago family, Il Pastaio is a popular Beverly Hills trattoria. There are three kinds of carpaccio to start your meal — beef, tuna, and swordfish, but regulars can’t resist the fried rice balls called arancini. Mussels and clams steamed in a garlicky tomato broth taste like you‘re next to the sea. There are more than a dozen salads, including a tasty panzanella made with leftover bread. With so many pastas and risottos to choose from, most diners never make it to the Secondi section of the menu. Their panna cotta provides the perfect ending to a wonderful meal.

Burrata from Drago Centro

No discussion of Italian restaurants in Los Angeles can omit the Mozza trilogy. The brainchild of culinary stars Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joseph Bastianich, Pizzeria Mozza is actually the casual sibling of the more up-scale Osteria Mozza. But for our money, Pizzeria Mozza is the better choice. The pizzas here — baked at high temperature in a wood-burning oven — are miraculous with a thick, puffy crust that’s lighter than air. But there’s plenty of other great Italian food like fried squash blossoms, baked bone marrow, goat cheese with lentils, and oven-roasted pork ribs. Daily specials include crisp duck leg with lentils, chicken alla cacciatore, and lasagna. Make reservations or plan to wait. And don’t miss the butterscotch budino. It’s one of the most delicious desserts you’ll ever eat.

As the name implies, Trattoria Tre Venezia specializes in the cooking of Northeastern Italy. It’s tucked away in a cute little building in Old Town Pasadena. And from the outside, you’d never guess that it has been awarded a Michelin star. The dishes here are a far cry from what you’d find in Southern Italy, and Austrian influences are apparent in marinated venison and smoked pork chops with gorgonzola sauce and sauerkraut. From the Veneto region, there are seafood specialties like cuttlefish, black-ink ravioli filled with halibut, and chestnut tagliatelle with lobster. For desserts, the custards — such as Crèma del Gondoliere — are especially good.

Valentino has been the leading Italian restaurant in Los Angeles for thirty five years now. Its staying power can be attributed to attention to detail. From the elegant ambience of the four romantic dining rooms to the world-class service to the 140,000-bottle wine cellar, owner Piero Selvaggio provides an exceptional dining experience. Which explains why they have a Michelin star. The menu has delectable items like risotto with squid ink and mixed seafood, lasagna with duck ragu and porcini mushrooms, and ossobuco, but your best bet is to put yourself in the chef’s hands and order the tasting menu. Those looking for something lighter and less expensive can opt for the Vin Wine Bar, which offers an appetizer, entrée, and dessert for just $35. Affordable vertical wine tastings are also available. Dress up.

The heart of Vincenti is the wood-burning oven and rotisserie. You can watch all the action in the exhibition kitchen. Starters include a warm octopus salad, tuna carpaccio, and stuffed zucchini blossoms. Tagliolini with clams and potato gnocchi with shrimp, lobster, and asparagus are delicious. But it’s the roasted meats that steal the show. Try sea bass or Dover sole, quail, leg of lamb, or pork tenderloin. The six-course tasting menu is $60. And excellent pizzas are also available.

1) Angelini Osteria
2) Drago Centro
3) Il Pastaio
4) Pizzeria Mozza
5) Trattoria tre Venezia
6) Valentino
7) Vincenti

View Italian restaurants in Los Angeles in a larger map

Find more Italian restaurants here. And find great Pizza restaurants in Los Angeles here.

Free “P” Star in the Marais

No wonder Parisians coined the term “leche-vitrine,” which loosely translated means “window licking.”

But if you have your heart set on coming home with a piece of Parisian haute couture, there are ways to do it without breaking the bank.

Fashion-forward Parisians won’t wear the same designer outfit more than once.  And they certainly won’t wear something from last year’s collection this year.  Instead, they’ll take their unwanted items to a “depots-vente,” which is a high-end consignment shop that specializes in designer clothes.

Because the clothes in most of these shops are nearly perfect, they’re not cheap.  Even at 50% off retail – or more – they’re still an investment.  And most of the best consignment stores are a little out of the way for the average tourist.  But if you know couture and are willing to make the trek, you can score some serious bargains – a Chanel suite for €1000 or a Hermes scarf for €150.

Here are some of the best consignments shops in Paris for high fashion bargains:

Vintage clothes

1)    Reciproque is the oldest (founded in 1978), biggest, and best-known consignment shop in Paris.  In addition to clothes, there’s tableware, artwork, and furniture.  It’s actually made up of seven boutiques, and as consignment stores go, it’s pretty well organized.  As a rule, people either love Reciproque or hate it.  They’re at 88 and 95 rue de la Pompe in the 16th.

2)    Fan-Fan’s Depot Vente has friendlier owners than some places.   If you have something in mind – perhaps Hermes, Vuitton, or Dior – they can help you find it.  There aren’t a lot of small sizes here, but there are usually nice belts, handbags, and accessories.  They’re on rue Mayet.

3)    Conveniently located in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Depot Vente de Buci-Bourbon is worth spending some time in.  There are actually two shops – one specializing in classic vintage couture and one selling Gaultier, Yamamoto, and other trend setters.  The address is 6 rue le Bourbon-le-Chateau

4)    Located in the 14th, Priscilla has very good prices on classics from designers like Max Mara, Kenzo, Yves Saint Laurent, Sonya Riekel, and Christian Dior.  You’ll find Priscilla at 4 rue Mouton-Duvernet.

5)    Le Jupon Rouge features fun clothes by up-and-coming designers.  If you’re lucky, you’ll find a blouse by Agnes B or Ungaro, or shoes from Stephane Kelian or Repetto.  It’s at 9 rue de Rochechouart (in the 9th).

6)    Griff-Troc often has just what you’re looking for – Valentino, Dolce & Gabbano, Dior, Chloe, and Hermes at prices that are good, but not exactly a steal.  They’re at 119 Boulevard Malesherbes (in the 17th).

7)    If you’re staying in the Marais, you’ll want to check out Odetta at 76 rue des Tournelles.  It’s open on Sundays, which is rare.

8)    Another Marais boutique, Alternatives stocks clothes worn by models for photo shoots, so they’re hardly worn, but pretty small.  Look for Prada and Miu Miu.  It’s at 18 rue de Roi de Sicile.

9)    Free “P” Star is a vintage shop favored by Sofia Coppola and Kirsten Dunst who shopped here during the filming of Marie Antoinette.  Prices are very good and their stock turns over quickly.  8 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie

10) If you’re willing to travel, Vallee Village is about 30 minutes from Paris by rail.  It’s an up-market outlet mall with 90 luxury ready-to-wear boutiques including Agnes B, Armani, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Kenzo, and Versace.  You can also take the Cityrama shuttle bus from Place des Pyramids each morning.

1) Reciproque
2) Fan-Fan’s Depot-Vente
3) Depot Vente de Buci-Bourbon
4) Priscilla
5) Le Jupon Rouge
6) Griff-Troc
7) Odetta
8) Alternatives
9) Free “P” Star

View Paris consignment shops in a larger map

Find more Pairs travel tips here.

Free “P” Star in the Marais Image Flickr: nozomiiqel
Vintage clothes Image Flickr: Elsewhere Artist Collaborative

Ferris Wheel on Santa Monica Pier

No visit to Southern California is complete without a trip to the beach.

Not only is Santa Monica Beach one of the best, it’s also one of the most fun. In fact, it was named one of the “10 Great Public Spaces in the U.S.” by the American Planning Association.

It’s also easy to reach. If you’re flying into LAX, Santa Monica Beach is less than 10 miles away. And you can get there without getting on a freeway, which is always an advantage in SoCal.

A huge swath of golden sand, Santa Monica Beach stretches for 3-1/2 miles up the coast. With 340 sunny days a year, it’s no wonder that so many movies are shot here. And chances are, it will be gorgeous for you too.

The beach is cleaned and raked every day, and lifeguards are on duty during daylight hours. If all you want to do is relax, bring a beach towel or a folding chair and enjoy watching the people. Or let one of the Perry’s beach butlers set you up with a chair, a table, and an umbrella. Just be sure to use plenty of sunscreen.

And keep your eyes peeled for celebrities. Even if you don’t see one, you’ll see plenty of guys and gals who could pass the physical.

When you get hot, take a dip in the water – it’s always cool, even on hot summer days. You can surf in designated areas, usually between lifeguard stands 18 and 20 and 28 and 29, but check with the guard first. If you don’t have a board, Perry’s rents them, and boogie boards too.

Once the estate of William Randolph Hearst, the Annenberg Community Beach House opened last year on five acres of Santa Monica beachfront. There’s a beach café, rentals, and a beautiful pool that’s open to the public during the summer. It’s very popular, so you’ll need to make reservations in advance.

Lifeguard stand at Santa Monica Beach

Another fun activity is to rent a bike and go for a spin. The coastal trail runs from Torrance to Malibu – 22 miles in all – and it’s one of the longest beach paths in the world. It’s open to anything that’s non-motorized, so you can roller blade, skate, or skateboard, it you prefer.

The Santa Monica pier recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. Today, it’s packed with shops, restaurants, street performers, a ferris wheel, and a 1922 carousel. You can buy bait and rent fishing gear at the end of the pier and try your luck fishing. The truly adventurous can take lessons from the trapeze school on the pier.

If you’re headed to Southern California, even on a brief business trip, Santa Monica beaches are some of the most enjoyable in the world. Plan to spend at least a few hours enjoying the sun, surf, and scene here.

Find more California travel tips here.

Ferris Wheel on Santa Monica Pier image Flickr: prayitno
Lifeguard stand at Santa Monica Beach image Flickr: Faris ?

Puerto Madero

Some of the best Italian restaurants in South America are here. And there are also plenty of great pizza restaurants.

Italian restaurants in Puerto Madero.

An outpost of the well-regarded Milan restaurant of the same name, Bice serves meat and fish, but it’s the pasta dishes that really stand out. Ravioli quattro formaggi, fettuccini with spinach and shrimp, and tri-colored gnocchi with Parmesan are all winners. The wine list is affordable, and there are tables outside along the Puerto Madero riverfront promenade.

Based on the success of their Puerto Madero location, the owners of Sottovoce decided to open a second restaurant in Libertador. The chef here trained at the Ritz in Paris and Cipriani in Venice before returning to Argentina and going into business with his brother. Starters include bresaola with burrata cheese and prawns, beans, and arugula salad. Veal rolls and rabbit with mustard sauce compete with pastas like pappardelle with chanterelles and portabellos. Have a glass of late harvest Torrontes with rice pudding with dulce de leche ice cream.

One of the first restaurants to open in Puerto Madero in 1995, Sorrento del Puerto is still the only two-story restaurant at the port. If you can’t get a table on the patio, opt for a second-story spot with a view of the waterfront. Sorrento is a great choice is you’re tired of Argentina’s ubiquitous beef because the seafood is really good. There’s a variety of fresh fish available grilled. Or you can opt for a more imaginative preparation like trout stuffed with crab. Although it’s not Italian, the Paella Valenciana is very good.

Italian restaurants in other Buenos Aires neighborhoods.

With its red-and-white checkered tablecloths. Broccolino — which is a corruption of Brooklyn – would be equally at home in New York City. Not far from Calle Florida, it’s a favorite of actor Robert Duvall. Start your meal with calamari sautéed in wine and garlic. Try one of the wonderful pastas or a spicy pizza from the brick oven. You can choose a pasta, a sauce, and a variety of toppings like grilled vegetables. But save room for the wonderful Italian-style gelato.

Piegari restaurant in Recoleta

Located in the happening Palermo Viejo neighborhood, La Baita fills up at lunch and dinner with locals craving great Italian food. Start with beef carpaccio or the antipasto with local prosciutto and salami. Risotto with squid ink, baked lasagna, and saltimbocca are popular choices. And the crepes filled with crab then baked with parmesan cream are wonderful. Wine is available by the bottle or glass.

Tucked away under a freeway in Recoleta, Piegari serves huge portions of leg of lamb, short ribs of beef, spaghetti, and other hearty dishes. It’s a good ideas to go with others so you can share them family style. In addition to the homemade pastas, there’s fresh seafood, risottos, and deep-dish pizzas. The wine list here is quite extensive.

1) Bice
2) Sottovoce
3) Sorrento del Puerto
4) Broccolino
5) Filo
6) La Baita
7) Piegari

View Italian restaurants in Buenos Aires in a larger map

Find more Italian restaurants here.

Puerto Madero Image Flickr: blmurch
Piegari restaurant in Recoleta Image Flickr: Pedro Angelini

Los Roques, Venezuela

One of the world’s most challenging game fish, bonefish feed in tidal shoals called flats. Instead of taking a boat out to sea, most bonefishing is done by wading out onto the flats with a lightweight rod. Some times a shallow boat propelled by a pole is also used.

Bonefish are usually in two or three feet of water, but they often seem invisible — hence their nickname, the grey ghost. It’s easier to see their shadow than it is to see them. And polarized sunglasses are a must.

Because bonefish are the prey of barracuda, they’re extremely skittish so extreme care has to be taken not to spook them. They’ll flee any unfamiliar vibration, shadow, or splash. Your casting needs to be really precise in order to hook a bonefish, and that’s only the start. Don’t start reeling until your rod bends, and then, expect a fierce fight. Bonefish can swim up to 30 miles per hour, and it’s not uncommon for them to travel 100 yards before doubling back.

Christmas Island in the South Pacific is the most famous bonefishing destination, but bonefish are plentiful in the Bahamas, the Florida Keys, and the Seychelles.

Outdoor outfitter Orvis has several bonefishing programs for fishers of all abilities. They operate trips all year long on Andros Island in the Bahamas. Four- to seven-night packages are available. Prices start at $1,715 and include transfers from Andros Town, instruction, accommodations and meals at the guide’s Cargill Creek lodge.

Bonefishing

Orvis is also hosting their first Bonefish Rendezvous in Belize in April 9, 2010. Twenty anglers will be paired up with professional bonefishing guides who were all born and raised on Ambergris Caye.

A cocktail party and dinner at El Pescador will be held the first evening. Seminars dedicated to various aspects of bonefish and bonefishing will be taught, and participants will have four full days of fishing on the flats.

Accommodation at El Pescador, transfers from Belize City Airport, daily breakfast and dinner, instruction, and an Orvis fishing rod and reel are included. The price is $4,980 per angler and $1,980 per non-angler.

Another excellent bonefishing destination is the Los Roques Archipelago, which is 90 miles off the coast of Venezeula. Orvis has 4- to 7-night programs here at the Acuarela Lodge on Gran Roque with prices starting at $2,575 per angler. Orvis Fly Fishing Travel Manager will be hosting the May 1 – 8 trip, which includes a Helios rod and special events.

Fine more Caribbean trip planning ideas here.

Los Roques, Venezuela Image Flickr: Jean-Marc /Jo BeLo/Jhon-John
Bonefishing Image Flickr: Tom Purves

Pierre Herme

Our favorite Parisian pastry is the macaron. Nothing like coconut macaroons, macarons are sandwich cookies made with almond-flour meringue. The version eaten today was invented by Laduree, who introduces one new flavor each year.

With a light, outer shell that gives way to a smooth, chewy center, macarons are indescribably delicious. Another treat made with almond flour is the financier. Technically not a pastry, a financier is a teacake, similar to madeleines, which come from Lorraine.

Where to find the best pastries.

In business since 1802, today Dalloyau employs 100 pastry chefs in 31 shops. The specialty here is the eponymous Dalloyau, a light, praline cake filled with almond meringue. With layers of almond biscuit, butter cream, chocolate, and coffee, the Opera is another must-try selection. Dalloyau also has tea rooms where you can have lunch or afternoon tea.

Pierre Herme wrote the book on macarons. Literally. A fourth-generation Alsatian baker, he apprenticed with Gaston Lenotre at 14, went on to work at Fauchon, and opened his own shop in 1998 in Tokyo. Each year, he introduces a new collection with exotic flavors like olive oil, litchi-rose, jasmine, and passion fruit and chocolate. Try caramel and fleur de sel. In addition to macarons, Pierre Herme creates chocolate confections — including incredible truffles — cakes, nougats, and cookies.

Gerard Mulot is best known for his shop on rue de Seine in Saint-Germain, but he also has a shop in the Marais, a block from the Places des Vosges. The macarons are wonderful, but so are the raspberry tarts, caramel mousse, small cakes, and chocolate fondant. The chocolates are divine, as are the croissants and brioches, both of which come in a variety of flavors. Stop in at lunch for a croque monsieur, salmon torte, quiche Lorraine, or sandwich on one of their delicious baguettes.

If you’re in the 7th arrondissement in the morning, Jean Millet is a great place to pick up breakfast. He makes the best pain au chocolate in Paris — flaky, and buttery, with an intense chocolate center. If chocolate doesn’t strike your fancy, try crepe Suzette, palmiers, beignets (like in New Orleans, only better), or cannelle. Get some financiers or madeleines for later.

Laduree Macarons

Opened in 1862, Laduree is famous for their macarons. For fall 2009, the flavor was Fig and Date. But we’re partial to blackcurrent violet. Who can resist pastries like almond sponge cake with pistachio cream, raspberries and caramelized meringue or caramelized puff pastry, praline cream, almond pralines, and crispy hazelnuts? In the tea room, you can order anything from a smoked salmon éclair to a spider crab floating island or roasted saddle of lamb. Laduree Le Bar on the Champs-Elysees serves a more ambitious menu and designer cocktails.

Place de la Madeleine is a must-visit for food lovers. Some of the most exclusive food purveyors in France are on the square or within a block or two. The most famous of these is Fauchon, which is not just a patisserie but actually three stores in one — a patisserie, a deli, and a grocery selling delicacies from all over the world. If you want foie gras with citrus fruits or truffle juice, this is the place. There’s also a tea room and restaurant. They’re famous for their melt-in-your-mouth madeleines.

Opened in 1730 by the pastry chef to Louis XV, Stohrer is the oldest continually operating patisserie in Paris. They’re best known for inventing Baba au Rhum, a brioche that’s soaked with rum syrup. But the Ali Baba with a rum-raisin, cream filling goes the plain Baba one better. The lovely 19th-century murals on the ceilings and wall panels were painted by Paul Baudry who decorated the Grand Foyer of the Opera Garnier. Figaro newspaper recently rated Stohrer’s eclair as the best in Paris.

View Paris Pastries in a larger map

1) Dalloyau
2) Pierre Herme
3) Gerard Mulot
4) Jean Millet
5) Laduree
6) Fauchon
7) Stohrer

Read more France food tips here.

Pierre Herme Image Flickr: roboppy
Laduree Macaroons Image Flickr: UggBoy ( have fun doing it )

Treviso Italy

Just 20 miles north of Venice, Treviso is a delightful town which has retained much of its medieval charm. Like its famous neighbor to the south, Treviso is laced together with a series of pretty canals and medieval arcades. But unlike in Venice, Treviso hotels are off the tourist trail.

Although Treviso was damaged during World War II, what was left was preserved, what could be rebuilt was sensitively restored, and new construction was designed not to overwhelm the existing buildings. Many of the original frescoes have been preserved, and today, there are stylish boutiques on every corner.

Piazza dei Signori is the heart of Treviso’s old town is still the place to see and be seen. On the square, there’s a 13th-century council hall and an old Palazzo with a clock tower. There are two medieval churches worth visiting on the next square, Piazza San Vito. Santa Lucia has frescoes by Tomaso da Modena and San Vito has Byzantine frescoes dating from the 12th or 13th century.

Treviso’s 12th-century Duomo has the distinction of having seven domes. The chapel has an Annunication by Titian and frescoes by lesser known artists. The crypt is filled with old columns, and 14th-century mosaic and fresco fragments.

More impressive is San Nicolo, a 13th to 14th-century Dominican church with columns painted by Tomaso da Modena, a fresco by Lorenzo Lotto, and other frescoes from the Sienese School.

The local museum – the Museo Bailo – has a good collection of ancient bronze relics and minor paintings by major artists.

Treviso hotels and inns.

There aren’t many good hotels in Treviso, so it’s a good idea to make reservations well in advance if you’re coming during high season.

With just 14 rooms, Albergo il Focolare is one of the coziest Treviso hotels. Located on a side street in the center of Treviso’s old town, it’s convenient to everything. Several of the rooms overlook the nearby canals, and though they vary in size, they’re all pleasantly furnished.

Hotel Carlton offers more services to its guests that most of the other hotels in Treviso. The 93 rooms have plasma TVs and WiFi Internet access, and guests of the hotel have reduced admission at a local fitness club, spa, and golf course.

Close to the train and bus stations, the Hotel Continental is about a 10-minute walk from the main square. Its 80 rooms have been updated and many have parquet floors, Murano glass chandeliers, and carved wood moldings. There’s a bar in the hotel and there are several restaurants nearby.

Hotel Ca’ del Galletto is probably the quietest Treviso hotel. It’s located in a residential neighborhood about 15 minutes from the old town. If you don’t want to walk into town, they’ll loan you a bike. When you’re through exploring the sights of Treviso, you can relax by the outdoor swimming pool. There’s a restaurant in the hotel serving Veneto specialties and seafood. And a breakfast buffet is included in the room rate.

1) Piazza dei Signori
2) Piazza San Vito
3) Duomo
4) San Nicolo
5) Museo Bailo
6) Albergo Il Focolare
7) Carlton Hotel
8) Continental Hotel
9) Ca’ Del Galletto

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Find hotels and attractions in Ravenna here.

Treviso Italy image Flickr: cocoate.com

Juan Les Pins Beach

Located between Cannes and Nice on the French Riviera, Juan-les-Pins (Juan of the pines) was first developed in the 1920s. By the 1930s, trend-setters like F. Scott Fitzgerald put Juan-les-Pins on the map, and today, it attracts pretty much everyone.

The golden-sand beach is one of the best on the Riviera. And if you base yourself here, you’ll find it easy to reach all the attractions of the Cote d’Azur. Antibes and it’s museum are within walking distance. It’s packed during the Cannes Film Festival, so book well in advance.

Luxury Juan-les-Pins hotels.

A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group, Hotel Juana was a favorite of F. Scott Fitzgerald. It’s a listed historic monument, and a 2004 renovation recaptured some of its jazz era, Art Deco panache.

It’s on the edge of a shady pine forest, but guests have access to a beach club with changing room where they can rent umbrellas and chairs. Those who prefer a pool will enjoy the heated white marble pool at the property. There’s also a Turkish bath and fitness center. And the staff can arrange golf, diving, deep-sea fishing, tennis, or other activities.

The 45 rooms have large marble or tile baths, mahogany furnishings, WiFi Internet access, safes, and mini bars. If you can afford a room with a balcony, you’ll have views of the sea and nearby Lerins Islands. The restaurant at the Juana is one of the best in town.

Another Small Luxury Hotel, Hotel des Belle-Rives was once a private villa that hosted F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald. In the ensuing years, notables from Josephine Baker to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor also stayed here.

Located right on the beach, it has a beach club with a café, bar, and private dock. Twenty seven of the forty three rooms have panoramic ocean views. All have marble bathrooms and double-paned windows.

Hotel Juana and Hotel des Belle-Rives are two of the best hotels in Juan-les-Pins. You can’t really go wrong with either one.

About a five-minute walk from the beach, Hotel Saint Valerie has 36 air-conditioned rooms with WiFi, satellite TV, and mini bars. Those that overlook the swimming pool or garden terrace are especially nice. A member of the Chateaux & Hotels de France group, it’s a romantic spot.

Affordable Juan-les-Pins hotels.

If you’re on a budget, Hotel Le Pre Catalan offers a lot of charm for the money. In a villa built around 1900 in a residential part of town, it’s surrounded by terraces and gardens of palms, citrus, and flowers. There’s a heated pool and Jacuzzi, a bar, and WiFi Internet access.

The 24 air-conditioned rooms come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some have kitchenettes, and the nicest ones have terraces. Hotel Le Pre Catalan offers the real flavor of Provence near to, but away from the noise of, Juan-les-Pins’ bustle.

Hotel des Mimosas is a 34-room hotel in a villa that dates from the 1870s. Its hill-top, garden setting is extremely attractive, and it’s only about ten-minutes’ walk from a nice beach. Four of the rooms have balconies and nine have terraces. If you can, get one of these. The pool, which is surrounded by palms, is very popular with guests, who make reservations months in advance for summer.

Because of its reasonable prices and charming ambience, Hotel des Mimosas is a very popular Juan-les-Pins hotel.

1) Hotel Juana
2) Hotel Belles Rives
3) Hotel Sainte Valerie
4) Hotel le Pre Catalan
5) Hotel des Mimosas

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Find more hotels in the South of France here.

Juan-Les_Pins beach image Flickr: cjnzja

Short Rib Pasta

The North Beach neighborhood was once the home of most of the city’s Italian restaurants. But these days, you’ll find them in every part of town, from the Mission District to Nob Hill.

Here, listed alphabetically is our list of the best Italian restaurants in San Francisco:

1) The Italian region of Campania is noted for a flavorful cuisine that centers around tomatoes, onions, cheeses, pasta, and cured meats. A16 – named for the autoroute that runs through the region – features Campania-inspired dishes like braised pork shoulder, pasta with cauliflower and crab, or rustic duck meatballs. The starters here are especially good. Try roasted asparagus with walnut cream; house-made prosciutto with persimmons, hazelnuts, and pomegranate seeds; or creamy, rich burrata cheese with crostini. There are 40 wines – mostly Italian varietals – available by the glass, and carafes of wine are also an option. A16 is also one of the best pizza restaurants in town.

2) Located in a building that was once a chapel, Acquarello is one of the most sophisticated Italian restaurants in the Bay Area. The menu, which changes frequently, might feature contemporary Italian foods like gnocchi and Swiss chard in brown butter and sage, a grilled sea bass on warm artichoke and potato salad, or lobster panzerotti. The 500-bottle wine list has lots of great choices from Italy and California. The chocolate cake dusted with gold is worth saving room for. If you’re on a budget, the four-course tasting menu is a good value.

3) Another excellent pizza restaurant, Delfina’s is a Mission District favorite. Making the most of what’s fresh from the farm as well as locally made cheeses and naturally raised beef and lamb, Delfina’s features starters like grilled calamari and white bean salad, incredible pastas like pappardelle with braised lamb, and bistro classics like steak frites. The eclectic menu changes nightly. The heated, covered terrace is a nice spot on balmy evenings. Prices for both food and wine are very reasonable.

Salumi

5) A family-owned North Beach trattoria, l’Osertia del Forno has a limited menu, but everything on it is delicious. First of all, there’s the delicious focaccia to tide you over until the food arrives. Then there are a few pasta dishes, a couple of daily specials – hope for the milk-braised pork – a daily roast, some polenta, and good, thin-crust pizza. It’s inexpensive, informal, and good.

6) The chef and co-owner at La Ciccia is Sardinian, and the menu here recalls the dishes he grew up with on the island. Start with the seafood salad, dressed with lemon and fresh herbs or calamari with mint and white wine. Then sink into pasta with clams, tomatoes, and saffron. or spaghetti with mullet row. The food pairs perfectly with Sardinian wines like Vermentino.

7) Dishes from the Northern Italian regions of Liguria and Piemonte dominate the menu at Perbacco. The antipasto of house-made salumi is a clear winner. Try pappardella in a ragu made with braised short ribs, veal-stuffed agnolotti in cabbage and meat sauce, or milk-braised pork shoulder. The two-story, exposed brick space is sophisticated and lively. And the wine list is excellent, but not cheap.

8) Located in a brick building in Jackson Square, Quince is one of the most elegant Italian restaurants in San Francisco. Chef Michael Tusk did stints at Chez Panisse and Oliveto, and the invention of those trend setters shines through. The best way to experience all of Quince’s delights is to invest in their five- or eight-course tasting menu. That way, you’ll get to try small portions of sensational dishes like pasta with foie gras; pork loin, belly, and sausage with chestnut puree; and veal rib chop with chanterelles and fontina cheese. This is one of the top tables in town for a celebration dinner.

1) A16
2) Acquarello
3) Delfina’s
4) Incanto
5) L’Osteria del Forno
6) La Ciccia
7) Perbacco
8) Quince

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Short Rib Pasta Image Flickr: stu_spivack
Salumi Image Flickr: WordRidden

St. Peter's Square

It was harder than I thought it would be, because she only has ten days. And there are so many great places to see in Italy that narrowing it down is a real challenge.

My first tip was not to bite off more than she could chew. On your first trip, you want to see as much as possible. It’s only natural. But the less time you spend traveling, the more you’ll enjoy your trip. So we decided that with ten days, she should only stay in three places. That way, she’d only have two travel days.

Traveling in Italy is pretty easy. But the trains don’t always run on time, and repacking your bags and moving from one hotel to another is always more time-consuming than you think it will be. So when planning a trip to Italy, bear that in mind.

The most convenient and affordable air service is into Rome, so I suggested that she spend the first four nights there. She’ll be pretty jet laggy, and staying put for a few days will help her keep from getting exhausted. Besides, no one ever has enough time in Rome.

Gondola Ride

Here’s the itinerary we roughed out:

Day 1. Arrive Rome. Check into Teatropace 33, near Piazza Navona. Afternoon stroll to Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, and Spanish Steps. Dinner near Piazza Navona.

Day 2. Rome. AM visit to Campo de Fiori, then explore ancient Rome — Imperial Forum, Colosseum, and Roman Forum. Afternoon shopping. Dinner near Campo de Fiori.

Day 3. Rome. AM visit to Vatican Museums, St. Peter’s, and Castel Sant’Angelo. Afternoon at Acqua Madre Spa or shopping for antiques on Via dei Coronari. Dinner in Trastevere.

Day 4: Rome. Gallerie Borghese, or cooking class, or side trip to Tivoli, or side trip to Ostia Antica.

Bridge of Sighs

Day 6: Florence. Early AM visit to Accademia. Visit to Duomo and Baptistery. Afternoon shopping.

Day 7: Florence. Day trip to Siena or Lucca.

Day 8: Two-hour train from Florence to Venice. Check into Locanda Orseolo. Afternoon tours of St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace.

Day 9: Venice. AM visit to Lido or Murano. Then art museums, churches, or shopping. Evening gondola ride.

Day 10: Home

By keeping the number of cities to a minimum, she’ll spend the least amount of time hauling bags and waiting for trains. And she’ll have plenty of time to sample the gelato, go into all the irresistible shops, and linger over a glass of wine in the piazza.

Read more about travel to Italy here.

Carnival Cruise Ship

Last year, more than 14 million people took a cruise. Most of them were happy, well-fed, and had the time of their lives.

But some were disappointed, disgruntled, and even down-right miserable. So when you’re finally ready to take the plunge and try cruising yourself, how can you sort through all the cruises ships that are out there to find one that’s right for you?

As is so often the case, our advice is to do plenty of trip planning in advance. The more you figure out ahead of time, the happier you’ll be.

A good travel agency that specializes in cruising can help you make an informed choice. But don’t leave the choice of a cruise line up to them. It’s your money – and precious vacation time.

Here are ten questions that can help you narrow down the field:

1) When you go out to eat, where do you go? Do you like Olive Garden, the little corner bistro where they know your name and your wine order, or the buzzy place with the celebrity chef that’s nearly impossible to get into?

2) When you go to a hotel, where do you stay? At a Comfort Inn, a Hilton, or a Four Seasons? Are you okay with a standard room, or do you need an ocean-view suite? Which amenities are most important to you?

3) What kind of car do you drive? A domestic sedan, a minivan, or a European import? Which kind of rental car do you get?

4) How social are you? When you’re in line, do you often talk to whoever is next to you or do you usually keep to yourself? How do you feel about dining with strangers?

5) What kind of clothes do you wear? Is comfort more important than style, or is your appearance your top priority? Do you hate to dress up or do you get all decked out every chance you get?

6) How do you feel about crowds? Are you a more-the-merrier person or someone who likes their personal space? Do you like being around other people or do they usually bug you?

7) Are you adventurous, cautious, or fun-loving? Easy going, or tightly wound? Do third-world countries intrigue you or make you nervous?

8) When you travel do you want to have lots of exciting new experiences, or just relax and unwind?

9) Do you love kids or do you like them only from a distance?

10) When you travel, do you worry about every dollar or figure you’re on vacation, so who cares? Which is more important to you – price or value?

Once you’ve answered these questions, finding the right cruise ship shouldn’t be too hard.

If you travel with kids, enjoy other people, and want a wide range of fun activities and a party atmosphere, you’ll probably enjoy the “fun ships” of Carnival. Carnival cruises ships are big and boisterous and the passengers are there to have a good time. Think conga lines and umbrella dinks.

For something a little more refined, but still casual and fun with an emphasis on activities, try Royal Caribbean or Norwegian. From the fitness facilities to the swimming-with-the-rays shore excursions, these cruises are for active travelers who’d rather participate than watch. In fact, you may find it a challenge to do nothing but relax in a deck chair on these ships.

Baby Boomers who want a near-luxury experience without the luxury price tag should look at Celebrity. The food on board is more up-scale – more Roy’s than Red Lobster – the ambience more sophisticated, and the décor more elegant. Most of the passengers enjoy wearing designer clothes to dinner. If you like a martini made with flavored vodka, Celebrity is a good choice.

Travelers who want a relatively calm experience, like to dress for dinner, and want to see the sights and then return to the ship for a relaxing afternoon will enjoy Princess or Holland America. There are certainly plenty of activities to choose from – but many, such as wine tasting and art auctions, are pretty low key. Food, service, and entertainment are all good. With older passengers, smaller ships, and more formal ambience, Holland America is less likely to satisfy active travelers.

Those who want luxury, and are willing to pay for it, have several great options.

Crystal has lots going for it – incredible suites, world-class cuisine, and impeccable service. But their 900+ passenger ships are large in a category where smaller is generally thought to mean better. What you gain in amenities, you’ll trade for flexibility. Fixed dining times, rare on luxury cruises, are the norm. Given all that, Crystal’s passengers are extremely pleased with the experience and return again and again.

If you want to visit exotic destinations, eat as well at sea as ashore, and spend your time at sea in the spa or a beautiful stateroom, you’ll likely love Seabourn or Silversea. These two lines have some of the smallest cruise ships at sea in terms of passenger capacity. So if it’s personal attention you crave, these set the standard. Passengers are always well dressed, and tuxedos are the rule after sun down. A nice benefit of these cruises is that they include many of the things less expensive cruises charge for.

We hope these tips will help you find the cruise ship of your dreams.

If you’re interested in repositioning cruises, you can learn more about them here.

Carnival Cruise Ship Image Flickr: motleypix

Although we recovered it quickly – someone had picked it up by mistake – spending our first two hours in Buenos Aires at the lost bag desk wasn’t an ideal start.

In 2008, we flew from Los Angeles to Rome via JFK. Although we made the connection, one of our bags didn’t. And it took over a week for it to catch up to us.

Since then we’ve limited ourselves to carry-on bags. And it’s made our trips easier, more enjoyable, and even less expensive. The benefits of traveling with a carry-on bag are compelling – but you’ll need some advance trip planning to pull it off.

Here are our steps for getting everything you need for two weeks in one small travel bag:

1) Buy a travel bag that you can actually carry on. Domestic carriers let you carry on bags that total 45” – usually 22” x 14” x 9”. International airlines sometimes are more restrictive. So check their website for details.

2) Create a packing list based on where you’re going, what you’ll actually be doing, and the weather. You can use one from a travel website or guidebook as a starting point, but tailor it to your specific trip.

3) Figure out the shoe situation. This is far and away the hardest part. If you can, wear your biggest shoes on the plane. If you can’t, stuff them with socks, underwear, and other small items wrapped in a plastic bag. Try to limit yourself to three pairs – one for walking around, one for nice dinners, and a pair of flip flops or sneakers. Waterproof them before you leave, and make sure they’re broken in. Pack some moleskin anyway.

4) Wear your coat, jacket, or sweater on the plane. Cabin temperature being what it is, you’ll probably want it anyway.

5) The only way to get everything you need for two weeks into one small travel bag is to wear each article of clothing several times. Instead of taking 14 days’ worth of outfits, take three or four. This necessitates doing laundry, which is easy if you stay for two or three days at a hotel with laundry service.

6) If not, you’ll need to do two things: 1) take clothes made of synthetic fibers that will dry quickly, and 2) take laundry supplies. We like the little individual packets of Woolite. They’re phosphate-free and biodegradable, and they rinse clean. You’ll need a stopper for the sink and a clothes line, although these days, many hotels – even nice ones – have them above the tub. Don’t wring your wet clothes. Blot them with a dry towel, and then hang them. That way, you won’t need to iron them. And if the bathroom window opens, so much the better.

7) Take clothes that all go with each other. If you take one pair of brown pants, then you need brown shoes, a brown belt, etc. But if all your clothes are black and navy, you can mix and match to create more outfits. Plus, they’ll stay cleaner longer than white or khaki.

8) Choose clothes that are versatile and can do double duty. A scarf or wrap can provide warmth and also dress up a plain outfit. Choose a nightshirt that makes an acceptable pool cover up. You can wear a nice quilted jacket almost anywhere.

9) Don’t take anything inexpensive and unwieldy that you could just as easily buy there. You can probably pick up a snorkel, mask, and fins at your destination for less than it would cost at home anyway.

10) Books and magazines weigh a lot and take up a tremendous amount of space. Leave the guidebooks at home and bring along photocopies or digital versions of the information instead.

Read more luggage and packing tips here.

Basilica of Sant' Apollinare Ravenna

Ravenna has a fascinating history. At one time or other, it’s been under Roman, Papal, and Venetian rule. But what really put Ravenna on the map was the Byzantine conquest in 540AD. The most beautiful mosaics in the world were produced here during that era. And they’re remarkably well preserved today. Many of them are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Much of Ravenna is a pedestrian zone, so you can walk to most of the sights, except for Sant’Apollinaire in Classe, which is about four miles from town. In ancient times, this was the port. Now, it’s inland. You can get there by city bus — they run often and drop you a 2-minute walk from the church. Buy your tickets at the tobacco store. And buy a combination ticket that includes admission to many of the churches.

Ravenna attractions.

Consecrated in 549, the church isn’t much to look at from the outside. But inside’s another story. Walk down the wide nave through the marble columns to the semi-circular apse. The 58 windows on the outer aisles flood the church with light. The arch and half dome over the high altar are covered with exquisite mosaics that glitter with gold. In the center, Sant’Apollinaire, the first bishop of Ravenna, is flanked by 12 lambs, symbolizing the Apostles. Birds, plants, and animals populate the paradise in the background. Christ is represented by the gold cross on a blue background covered with stars. Sant’Apollinaire is dazzling, incredible, amazing. Don’t miss it.

Back in town, the Basilica of San Vitale was consecrated in 548. The octagonal church is crowned with a dome, but the best mosaics are in the choir and the apse. Translucent panels bring in natural light which makes the mosaics sparkle. Christ is depicted surrounded by saints and angels. Plants and animals are at his feet. The emperor Justinian appears on the left of the apse. His wife, Theodora, is on the right. Look for the dolphins with crossed tails.

The third must-see in Ravenna is the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. It’s on the grounds of San Vitale. The daughter of Emperor Theodosius I, Galla Placidia was the de facto ruler of the Roman Empire for 12 years, and though she‘s not buried here, it‘s a fitting tribute. The mausoleum is at least 100 years older than San Vitale. The mosaics here are some of the most brilliantly colored in the world. Once inside, you’re surrounded by shimmering blue, green, and gold. The Good Shepherd appears at the entrance, and then eight of the Apostles appear in pairs on each of the walls beneath the dome. The other four appear on their own in the transepts.

Ravenna hotels.

San Vitale Ravenna

In a palace that was originally built in the 14th century, Albergo Cappello has just seven lovely rooms. It’s a short stroll from San Vitale and the mausoleum, and the Piazza del Popolo. With 15th century frescoes, Murano glass chandeliers, beamed ceilings, and tile floors, this is the most atmospheric hotel in Ravenna. It was completely renovated in 1998, and today they have LCD TVs, mini fridges, WiFi access, and in-room safes. There’s a restaurant and wine bar.

A member of the Best Western chain, Hotel Bisanzio is also very near San Vitale. In fact, you can see it from some of the upper-floor rooms. Like Ravenna’s churches, it doesn’t look like much from the outside. The lobby is all marble and leather club chairs, and there’s a private garden where you can relax with a glass of wine. The 38 modern rooms have mini bars and safes. And non-smoking rooms are available.

Just off Ravenna’s pedestrian concourse, the NH Ravenna Hotel is near Ravenna’s other significant churches — Sant’Apollinaire Nuovo and San Giovanni Evangelista. With 84 rooms, it’s one of the biggest hotels in town, and it’s the first choice of business travelers. Rooms are attractive with wood paneling and modern bathrooms. There’s a restaurant and bar, and you can rent a bike for exploring the city.

In a villa built in 1407 and refurbished in 2004, Villa Santa Maria in Foris has the most spacious rooms in town. They’re available in a variety of configurations from simple single rooms to elaborate suites. And they have wood floors and marble baths, some with whirlpools. The public areas, which include a library, breakfast room, and courtyard, are a big part of the appeal here. Although there’s no restaurant, a lavish breakfast buffet is served. When the weather’s nice, you can have it in the garden.

1) Basilica San Vitale
2) Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
3) Albergo Cappello
4) Hotel Basanzio
5) NH Hotel Ravenna
6) Villa Santa Maria in Foris

View Ravenna hotels and attractions. in a larger map

Read more Italy trip planning ideas here.

Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare image Flickr: rdesai
San Vitale image Flickr: seier+seier+seier

Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

Banff is a wonderful destination. The natural beauty of Banff National Park is absolutely breathtaking. In fact, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And the town is packed with good restaurants and cozy pubs.

In summer, you can choose from hundreds of spectacular trails, take a gondola up a mountain and then ride a bicycle down, or just relax with a pint on a roof-top deck with a sensational view. In winter, you can ski, dog-sled, snowshoe, snowmobile, or go for a sleigh ride.

There’s a Banff hotel to suit every budget and travel style.

The grand dame of Banff hotels is the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway to facilitate tourism in the area, the Banff Springs opened in 1888. Looking like a castle majestically towering over the Bow River, the hotel is one of the most photographed places in Banff. If you ask us, no trip to Banff is complete without a visit. Over the years, the stately stone structure has been expanded, renovated many times, and today, it’s equally historic and up to date. As you’d expect of an older property, some of the rooms are on the small side, as are the bathrooms. But all are beautifully furnished with luxurious beds and linens, top-quality toiletries, and fine fabrics. You’ll find every conceivable amenity, including 15 restaurants, an Olympic-sized swimming pool, a state-of-the-art spa, and tennis courts. The only downside, aside from the price, is the traffic — the place is always packed.

The Rimrock Resort is about a five-minute drive from town on the side of Sulphur Mountain. Most rooms have spectacular views of the forested slopes, and it’s only a five-minute walk to the hot springs and Banff gondola. Because the Rimrock offers shuttle service to the center of town, it offers the best of both worlds. The lounge off the lobby opens onto a gorgeous terrace and the views from both are some of the best in Banff. The décor is smart and sophisticated with lots of dark wood and polished marble. The rooms are spacious and well equipped with sitting areas that take in the views. There’s a spa, two restaurants — including Eden, a AAA Five Diamond award winner — and a heated pool that opens onto the terrace. We stayed at the Rimrock last August, and thoroughly enjoyed it. It’s one of the top Banff hotels.

Banff

A short stroll from Banff’s shops and restaurants, the Delta Banff Royal Canadian Lodge has 99 nicely decorated rooms with WiFi, coffee makers, and mini fridges. Many have fireplaces. With its heated indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, and sauna, the Grotto Spa is a great place to relax after a day of hiking or skiing. The Evergreen restaurant serves Canadian specialties like Alberta beef, trout, and Arctic char. The lounge has a ski-lodge ambience, and service is friendly and professional.

Four blocks from downtown, the Fox Hotel and Suites is one of the newer hotels in Banff and it offers good value for money. From the outside, it looks like a ski lodge with lots of wood and stone. The interior continues the theme with Craftsman furniture, wood paneling, and open beams. Loft suites have living rooms with fireplaces, kitchen nooks, upstairs bedrooms, and open onto a small terrace or balcony. The pool area here is modeled after the original hot springs cave in Banff. There’s also a fitness center. Chili’s Grill & Bar in the hotel is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. But a free continental breakfast is included in the rate.

A mile from Banff township on Tunnel Mountain, Buffalo Mountain Lodge is a great Banff hotel for those looking for peace and quiet. Since the city bus stops out front, getting to town doesn’t take much effort. Set on eight natural acres, the accommodations are in several small buildings scattered around the property. Rooms vary in size and amenities, but all have fireplaces, DVD players, balconies or patios, and down duvets. With its post-and-beam construction, huge fireplace and soaring ceilings, the Main Lodge is a great place for a drink. The Sleeping Buffalo and Cilantro are two of Banff’s best restaurants. And the outdoor hot tub is large enough to seat 25.

1) Fairmont Banff Springs Resort
2) Rimrock Resort
3) Delta Banff Royal Canadian Lodge
4) Fox Hotels & Suites
5) Buffalo Mountain Lodge

View Hotels in Banff. in a larger map

Read more Canada trip planning tips here.

The Liver Building

There was a Gustav Klimt show at the Tate Liverpool that we wanted to see. And we were surprised that there was a Tate in Liverpool at all. But there were lots of things about Liverpool that surprised us — pleasantly. It was all dolled up for the European Capital of Culture festivities. It shared the title that year with Stavanger, Norway. But all in all, it was one of the most appealing places we visited that summer.

Liverpool has a lot to offer for art lovers, Beatles fans — who can visit the Cavern Club and the Beatles Story — and anyone interested in Maritime history. In fact, the Liverpool waterfront is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It also has great shopping in the new Liverpool One Complex.

Hotels in Liverpool.

The Hilton Liverpool is about a two-minute walk from the Albert Docks. One advantage it has over the Atlantic Tower is the 24-hour fitness center. Guests also have access to the Merseyside Watersports Centre where you can canoe, sail, or windsurf. The 215 rooms have terrific beds, minibars, and marble baths with Crabtree & Evelyn toiletries. The rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, many with views of the docks, the river, or the Liver Building. And there’s a restaurant, a bar, and 24-hour room service. The Hilton is one of the most polished hotels in Liverpool.

Located next to the Liver Building and close to the Albert Docks, the Atlantic Tower recently underwent a multimillion dollar renovation. The 225 spacious rooms now include flat-screen LCD TVs, wireless Internet access, and work areas. Many of the room have nice views of the River Mersey, as does the Vista Bar and Restaurant. You can also enjoy a cocktail outside at the Vue Lounge. It’s a member of the Thistle group. If you’re looking for a modern, business hotel in Liverpool, the Atlantic Tower is a good choice.

Beatles fans will enjoy the Hard Day’s Night Hotel, which is next to the famed Cavern Club. It’s in a Grade II listed building that dates from 1884. Portraits of the Fab Four, as well as artwork by Paul and Ringo, decorate the rooms and public areas. There’s a Yellow Submarine juke box in the lobby. And sheet music hangs from the ceilings. The 110 rooms have up-to-the-minute amenities like interactive LCD TVs and free WiFi. Deluxe rooms have balconies with views of the Liverpool skyline. Blake’s Restaurant and Bar Four are pleasant spots for a meal or a drink.

Albert Docks

1) Hilton Liverpool
2) Atlantic Tower Hotel
3) Hard Days Night Hotel
4) Hope Street Hotel
5) Liver Building

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Read more Great Britain travel planning ideas here.

The Liver Building image Flickr: fast eddie 42
Albert Docks image Flickr: firmatography

Roman Coliseum

Other Roman specialties you should try include stuffed fried zucchini blossoms, Saltimbocca, which is veal stuffed with prosciutto, cheese, and sage, and porchetta, or roast suckling pig. You’ll also find traditional Italian foods like gnocchi and pizza on most menus.

The best expensive Italian restaurants in Rome.

The proud recipient of three Michelin stars, La Pergola is generally acknowledged to be the best Italian restaurant in Rome. Located in the roof garden atop the Cavalieri Hilton, La Pergola has sweeping views of Rome and a beautiful frescoed ceiling in the elegant interior. Chef Heinz Beck is actually German, but he has wholeheartedly embraced Italian culinary tradition and used it as a launching pad for his creations. You’ll find everything here from the simplest tortellini or tomato salad to an ambitious duck-liver scallop with crisp pigeon. The 48,000-bottle wine cellar and the service are both superb. Make reservations well in advance and take a credit card with a high ceiling.

Pantheon

Although fish is not as popular in Rome as it is in Naples or Sicily, Rome does have a very good seafood restaurant called Quinzi & Gabrieli. It’s in a 16th-century building not far from the Pantheon, and the terrace opens onto a small square. The fish couldn’t get any fresher – chances are, it was swimming in one of the tanks before it made its way to the kitchen. Clams (vongole) in a garlicky wine broth or calamari are a great way to start your meal, which could be perfectly cooked swordfish or sea bass. The three rooms are painted with frescoes of Portofino, Capri, and Elba. If you love seafood, this is your best bet in Rome.

The best affordable Italian restaurants.

Piazza Navona

Located on Piazza della Coppelle, not far from Piazza Navona, Maccheroni serves traditional Roman dishes and specialties from other regions of Italy as well. The most popular dish here is the Spaghetti Carbonara. But triofie al pesto, which originates in Santa Margherita Ligure, is another standout. The rustic interior is cozy in winter, and if you’re seated inside, you can watch the chefs at work. On a nice day, take one of the tables outside and enjoy the action on the piazza.

Owned by married couple Agata Parisella (who cooks) and Romeo Caraccio (who manages the dining room), Agata e Romeo has all the charm of a family-run place. The cooking here is modern, but steeply routed in tradition. Expect dishes like oxtail stew, rabbit croquettes, and inventive pastas. The modern décor is a nice change, and the restaurant is centrally located near the Vittorio Emanuele Monument (the dentures). Try to save room for the especially good desserts.

For the price, Antico Arco serves some of the best food in Rome. Above Trastevere on the Gianicolo Hill, Antico Arco serves imaginatively prepared rabbit, duck, and pheasant, in addition to the expected meats and pasta dishes. Chef Patricia Mattei uses lots of fresh vegetables and herbs, and her flavors are clean and bright — the duck breast starter is a must have. Antico Arco has a good wine list, and service is friendly and professional. There’s no terrace, but the attractive interior was redone in 2007. Reservations are required.

Located in the old courtyard of a 16th-century palazzo, Casa Bleve is the most elegant wine bar in Rome. It has one of the best selections of wine – both by the bottle and the glass – in town. But the lunchtime antipasto bar here is equally appealing. Platters filled with rolled veal tonnato, braciole, turkey rolls, marinated vegetables, cheeses, cured meats, and Sicilian desserts beckon. Indicate what you want to one of the servers, and he’ll compose a plate for you. It’s a great way to sample lots of Italian foods without breaking the bank.

Read more about food in Italy here.

Stavanger Old Town

Being named the European Capital of Culture (ECC) has really helped to elevate some of Europe’s lesser-known destinations. In 2008, Liverpool, England shared the title with Stavanger, Norway, and both got a big boost in tourism. And many of Stavanger hotels were renovated or upgraded for the event.

But even before ECC, Stavanger had reaped the economic benefits of being the hub of Norway’s North Sea oil industry. And today, Stavanger is a prosperous, cosmopolitan place that effortlessly combines old and new.

The fjordland scenery is beautiful. The historic harbor is charming. And there are several interesting museums and churches to check out.

Stavanger attractions.

The most notable church in Stavanger is the Domkirke, which was begun in 1125. It was pretty much destroyed by fire in 1272, and rebuilt in the Gothic style with twin towers, and a chancel. Between 1938 and 1942, another renovation restored its medieval appearance. The highlight of the church is its carved-wood pulpit, which illustrates scenes from the Old Testament. The baldachin overhead celebrates key moments in the life of Christ. Look for the Norse dragon and griffin column capitals.

With more than 170 examples from the18th- and 19th century, Gamle Stavanger has the largest collection of wooden houses in Scandinavian. The houses, which are jointly owned by private citizens and the city of Stavanger, have been extensively restored. And exploring the narrow, cobblestone streets of the old town with its pretty flower boxes, neat gardens, and gas lamps is like stepping back in time.

The Stavanger Museum is actually five museums – one that combines history and natural history, one dedicated to the city’s maritime history, a canning museum, an old neo-classical mansion, which is the home of the Norwegian royal family when they’re in Stavanger, and a restored Victorian house built in 1881. Entrance to all is included in the price of admission.

As you’d expect, many of Stavanger’s attractions are closed in December and January.

Stavanger hotels.

Stavanger Norway

Although it’s usually filled with oil industry executives, the Clarion Hotel is one of the top hotels in Stavanger. It’s location, a few blocks uphill from the harbor and within ten minutes of the old town, is also convenient to shops and restaurants. Many of the 249 rooms have great views of the fjord and its islands. And they include amenities like Duxiana beds, original artwork, wireless Internet access, and Scandinavian furniture. The décor is clean and inviting with lots of natural materials like birch and stone. And the top-floor relaxation center has a Jacuzzi, sauna, and more beautiful views. There are two restaurants and a bar.

Close to the Clarion physically and figuratively, the Radisson Blu Atlantic Hotel has 354 rooms decorated in the modern Scandinavian style. The location on Lake Breiavannet is convenient to Stavanger’s attractions. Rooms have free WiFi Internet access, coffee makers, and a trouser press. Many have lake views. The Restaurant Antique has views to match the food. And the English-style Alexander Pub and King Oscar Bar & Saloon are pleasant spots for a drink. There’s no fitness club on site, but guests have access to a nearby facility at reduced rates.

The Atlantic’s sister hotel, the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel has 204 rooms decorated in four different styles – Scandinavian modern, Pan-Asian, high-tech, and green, which features arts and crafts made of natural materials. The Royal is more luxurious than its sibling. The Pool Club has a heated swimming pool, saunas, Jacuzzi, whirlpool, and exercise equipment.

Located in Stavanger’s picturesque harborfront and designed to look like one of the old wharfhouses, Skagen Brygge Hotel is one of the most charming hotels in Stavanger. The architects did a terrific job of replicating the tall, narrow townhouses with their steep gables. Ten of the rooms are in a 19th-century brick building. These rooms are decorated with English country fabrics and many have exposed brick walls and wood beams. The exercise room is in this part of the hotel. Rooms in the newer section are brighter with large windows designed to take advantage of the harbor views. Guests have charging privileges at 14 restaurants within walking distance of the hotel.

View Stavanger hotels and attractions. in a larger map

1. Clarion Hotel Stavanger
2. Radisson Blu Atlantic
3. Radisson Blu Royal
4. Skagen Brygge Hotel
5. Domkirke
6. Gamle Stavanger
7. Stavanger Museum

Find our recommended Trondheim hotels here.

Stavanger Old Town image Flickr: gee
Stavanger image Flickr: Andrew®

Pool at Le Parker Meridien

Palm Springs hotels in the mid-century modern style.

Once the favorite of Rat Pack members, the Riviera Resort & Spa recently reopened following a $75 million renovation. The 406 rooms and suites are now decorated in a retro-cool style and outfitted with widescreen plasma TVs, mini bars, high-speed Internet access, and marble bathrooms with rain showerheads. One-, two-, and three-bedroom suites range from 680 to 1,248 square feet. The 11,000-square-foot Noble House spa has 18 rooms for Balinese, Thai, and Indonesian health and beauty treatments, and there’s also a fitness center. The resort has two outdoor swimming pools, and a dozen private cabanas with 32” flat-screen TVs, mini fridges, sectional sofas, and lounge chairs. The Rivera now competes with the Parker for the title of hippest hotel in Palm Springs.

Lobby at Le Parker Meridien

The Ace Hotel and Swim Club is an updated, mid-century motel that’s a fun place for those who want to be where the action is. The two outdoor swimming pools and outdoor fireplace are nearly always packed. On Sunday afternoons, a DJ spins tunes by the pool. And there’s a fitness center and full-service spa. Rooms are modern and include amenities like 42” flat-screen TVs and docks for MP3 players. Some have fireplaces and garden terraces. It’s walking distance to downtown. And you can bring your dog too. The Ace is less expensive than most Palm Springs hotels and it’s a good choice for partiers. Those whose top priority is a good night’s sleep should probably look elsewhere.

Another 1950s motel that’s had a facelift, the Orbit Inn is a retro paradise. Rooms are available in the main building and in the 8-room Hideaway in the back. From the Pepto Bismol pink bathroom tiles to the Fiestaware in the kitchenettes, they’re a step back in time. Several rooms have private patios. The heated salt-water pool is popular day and night. And excellent cocktails are served in the pool-side Boomerang Bar and the Albert Frey Lounge, named for the noted local architect. A Jacuzzi and in-room spa treatments round out the amenities. When it’s time for dinner, you can head into town on one of the Orbit’s cruisers bike rentals.

The Viceroy black-and-white, minimalist décor would be equally at home in South Beach. With its waterfall, koi pond and white whippet statues, the cool lobby sets the tone. Sixty seven guest rooms surround three beautifully landscaped courtyards. Rooms have Italian bedlinens, European toiletries, and luxurious bathrobes, and some have kitchenettes, fireplaces, and balconies. Studio bungalows are especially inviting. There’s a fitness center, full-service spa, three pools, two Jacuzzis, and a popular restaurant that serves California cuisine. And it’s a short stroll of Palm Canyon Drive. Another bonus — the Viceroy is very dog friendly.

Palm Springs hotels that break the mold.

The Indian Canyons

Travelers who really want to get away from it all will enjoy Smoke Tree Ranch, the last of the Palm Springs guest ranches. It first opened in the 1930s, and over the years, many famous names, including Walt Disney, have been guests. Its 55 small cottages are spread out across the 375-acre estate. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served each day in the dining room of the main ranch house. There’s a dress code at dinner and service is first rate. There’s not much to do here but enjoy the spectacular natural beauty of the desert. And for many Palm Springs visitors, that’s enough.

Find other California hotels here.

Trondheim

The city boasts several well-preserved examples of medieval architecture, and many timbered buildings. The historic center of the city lies on a small island reached by bridges.

Trondheim attractions.

Dating from 1070, the Cathedral of Trondheim (Niardos Domkirke) is by far the most impressive church in Scandinavia. And it has an interesting history. For centuries, pilgrims have come here to worship. And the Norwegian kings were buried here in medieval times. The coronation of Haakon VII here in 1905 marked the birth of modern Norway.

Despite having burned several times, the church retains many 11th-century features. After each fire, it was rebuilt in the original Gothic style. The highlight is the west façade which is decorated with carved saints and royals. See it at night when it’s lit by floodlights. Inside, huge columns support the arches dividing the chancel from the nave and there’s a beautiful stained-glass rose window. Don’t miss the jewel-encrusted tomb of Saint Olaf.

Design and history buffs will enjoy the National Museum of Decorative Arts (Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum). The collections here cover arts and crafts from the 16th through the 20th centuries. They include Scandinavian jewelry and silverwork, furniture, textiles, ceramics, and fine art.

There’s a nice collection of British Arts and Crafts, including pieces from William Morris and his school. And nice examples of French Art Nouveau, most of which came from the 1900 Paris World’s Fair. The museum provides an excellent overview of Scandinavian design through the ages.

Those who are musically inclined should visit the Ringve Museum on the Lade Peninsula. Located in a 1740 manor house and adjoining barn, it displays a good collection of antique and folk instruments, including clavichords, harpsichords, and stringed instruments.

The Sverresborg Trondelag Folk Museum has objects from just about every part of Norwegian life. You’ll see coaches, carriages, cottages, churches, and 200-year-old, sod-roof barns – more than 60 historic buildings in all. The ski museum that’s also on the property is included in the price of admission.

Trondheim hotels.

Cathedral of Trondheim

The Britannia isn’t just the oldest hotel in Trondheim, it’s also the grandest. Opened in 1897, it’s easily recognized by its slate-covered dome and Victorian-style tower. The Art Nouveau Palm Garden is a lovely spot for tea year ‘round. And guests can choose from four restaurants and two bars. The 247 rooms vary quite a bit in size, but most have been thoughtfully updated. Many have four-poster beds and each has a writing desk and free WiFi Internet access. The Britannia leads the pack in facilities, and travelers who want to stay in shape will appreciate the fitness room, mineral pools, sauna, indoor swimming pool, and full-service spa. It’s the best in town. A buffet breakfast is included in the rate.

Architectural design, state-of-the-art amenities, and sheer style make the Radisson SAS Royal Garden the best Trondheim hotel. Built on the mirror-like Nid River waterfront in 1984, the Royal Garden, like the warehouses it replaced, is built on stilts. The interior of the hotel has stone floors, glass skylights, and soaring ceilings. The mood is Scandinavian through and through. Most of the 298 light, airy rooms have parquet floors and many have balconies. There are two restaurants, a bar, and a health club with indoor pool. The Royal Garden hosted royals from all over Europe for the 2002 wedding of Norway’s Princess Martha-Louise.

As the name implies, the Best Western Chesterfield has a British feel about it. Its leather sofas and pub-like lobby lounge would be equally at home in Chester. Although it opened as a hotel in 1992, it was fully renovated following a fire in 2006. Now, it has 43 spacious rooms with high ceilings, nice furnishing, and modern bathrooms. Some of the corner rooms have nice views of the city. Breakfast is the only meal served, but it’s a good one. And the Chesterifield is walking distance to shops, restaurants, museums, and transportation hubs. The airport shuttle stops out front.

The Hotel Bakeriet is one of two Clarion Collection hotels in Trondheim. The 1863 building was Norway’s largest bakery for a century, so it’s got more ambience than most hotels. And all the accoutrements of baking are used to decorate the public areas. Rooms are large and comfortable with overstuffed chairs, wainscoting, and large bathrooms. Breakfast and a light evening meal in the café are included each day. The hotel is centrally located. And there’s a fitness center with exercise equipment, a Turkish bath, and a sauna.

The other Clarion hotel, the Grand Olav, is modern all the way. Opened in 1989, it was redesigned as a boutique design hotel in 2006. The Grand Olav is part of a multi-use complex that has up-scale shops, restaurants, and Trondheim’s concert hall. The common areas are done in black, grey, and red with mid-century inspired furniture. The 106 rooms are bright and contemporary with amenities like DVD players – DVDs are available at reception – modern art, and flat-panel TVs. Like the Bakeriet, Grand Olav includes two meals in the rate.

Another victim of Trondheim’s fires, Thon Hotel Gildevangen first opened as an office building in 1910. But it was extensively rebuilt in 2006 after suffering water damage from a fire. The original chiseled-stone, Gothic entrance remains. But the rooms are now simple and comfortable with large windows, high ceilings, and tile bathrooms. It’s convenient to most of Trondheim’s attractions. And two meals are included on weekdays.

Find our recommended Stavanger hotels here.

Trondheim image Flickr: eirikref
Cathedral of Trondheim image Flickr: kohlerkarsten

There are several towns in the Lake District that you can use as a base.

Lake Windermere and neighboring Ambleside are the most popular – and crowded. Lake Ullswater and Bassenthwaite are a little quieter.

Wherever you stay, you’ll be able to visit the sights – Wordsworth’s House, Beatrix Potter’s home and gallery, and the Ruskin Museum. And you’ll have countless opportunities to go hiking, boating, and golfing. But be sure to leave yourself plenty of time to do nothing but relax and enjoy the scenery.

Ambleside hotels.

A short walk from both Lake Windermere and the town of Ambleside, Rothay Manor occupies a Regency-style country house that dates from 1825. The manor was originally the summer home of a Liverpudlian cotton merchant, and today, the 19 rooms have many of the original period details. Rooms are beautifully furnished, and the public areas have lots of antiques, over-stuffed chairs, and fresh flowers. Just what you’d expect in a country house. Request a room with a balcony overlooking the lake. The restaurant is top-nocth, and it has a wine list to match. Guests have privileges at a nearby health club. The manor has been run by the same family more than 40 years.

About 2-1/2 miles from Ambleside, the Drunken Duck Inn is an old coaching inn that’s a pleasant place to eat, drink, or sleep. The 16 rooms are bright and modern, and many have nice views. They surround a gravel courtyard and gardens. The garden room has beamed ceilings, a wood stove, and a small patio. The well-regarded restaurant has a menu that includes sea bass and scallops and butternut squash mille-feuille – reservations are a must. The bar serves ale fresh from the Barnsgate Brewery. And guests at the Duck can use the pool, steam room, and exercise equipment at the Langdale Country Club.

Windermere hotels.

Located on 67 gorgeous acres overlooking Lake Windermere, The Samling is a favorite of the rich and famous. Celebrities like Victoria and David Beckham aren’t uncommon. But the Samling is much less stuffy than many country house hotels. Despite the luxurious surroundings, the ambience is more lodgy than stodgy. The late 18th-century stone house is where Wordsworth used to pay his rent. Today, there are 11 rooms, 6 in the main house, and 5 in cottages on the property. Each room is unique, but all are beautifully decorated. Some rooms are two- or three-story. The restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star, and the wine cellar is one of the best in the region. The staff are happy to arrange virtually any activity from paragliding to trout fishing. The Samling is one of the best Lake District hotels.

From the outside, Langdale Chase Hotel is an old stone Victorian mansion with lots of interesting architectural details. Inside, it’s filled with antiques, old paintings, oak-paneled rooms, ornate fireplaces and a grand staircase. It’s been a hotel since 1930, and it’s played a Victorian manor house in several BBC shows. Most of the 27 rooms feature magnificent views of the lake. In addition to accommodations in the main house, there are five rooms in an old cottage, and a highly coveted room above the lake-side boathouse. The view of the lake and pretty gardens from the terrace are wonderful. The hotel has a pier and you can take canoeing, kayaking, sailing, or windsurfing lessons. There’s also a restaurant and bar on the property.

Lord Lonsdale’s former hunting lodge, Holbeck Ghyll is one of the most expensive hotels in the Lake District. If you can afford the premium price, you’re not likely to be disappointed. There are a variety of accommodations – 15 rooms in the 19th-century main house, 6 in the lodge, which was built in 1998, and 4 rooms in a recently restored barn. Most of the rooms in the lodge have splendid lake views and patios or balconies. Four have kitchenettes. The Miss Potter Suite has a private terrace with hot tub. There are also several detached cottages. Active travelers will appreciate the gym, tennis court, spa, putting green, and croquet lawn. The restaurant has a Michelin star and the wine list has won many awards.

Lake Ullswater hotels.

One of the finest hotels in the Lake District, Sharrow Bay Country House Hotel provides its lucky guests with terrific service, luxurious accommodation, and wonderful food. Oh, yes, and gorgeous views. It was the first member of the Relais & Cheateaux group in Britain. Originally a private, Victorian home on 12 acres fronting Lake Ullswater, it was purchased in 1948 and painstakingly restored. Today, there are 26 rooms – nine in the main house, and 17 in the Edwardian Gatehouse and cottages. The restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star 14 years in a row. Sharrow Bay is so close to Lake Ullswater, you can almost reach out and touch it.

On the shores of Lake Ullswater, Rampsbeck Country House Hotel offers very good value for money in an area that can be pretty expensive. The 18th-century house is on 18 acres of parkland and gardens with ¼ mile of lake frontage. Most of the rooms have been recently updated with LCD TVs, Bose radios, and WiFi Internet access. Mini-deluxe and deluxe rooms have separate sitting areas. The restaurant makes the most of fresh, local produce. And when the weather’s fine, the lounge opens onto the terrace.

Bassenthwaite hotels.

Once an 18th-century ale house, The Pheasant is an old coaching inn that just oozes ambience. It’s about midway between Cockermouth and Keswick at the northern tip of Bassenthwaite Lake on a quiet country road. Most of the 15 nicely updated rooms overlook the adjoining 60-acre forest. The restaurant is much better that you’d expect. And with its wood-paneled walls and warming fireplace, the cozy pub is still popular with locals. Guest have privileges at the local spa, five minutes away. The Pheasant is an affordable and charming Lake District hotel.

See our recommended hotels in Keswick here.

Most luxury hotels have big mortgages or management fees that are due every month. So they have to fill their rooms. And sometimes, the only way to do it is to really slash their prices.

So where can you find these great deals and save a bundle at a five-star hotel? Here are three travel websites that specialize in selling luxury travel at a discount.

An online luxury travel auction website.

Luxury Link auctions off travel packages to the highest bidder. You need to register to bid, and unlike at eBay, the auction doesn’t end at a specific time if people are still bidding. This is a nice feature because no one can come in and outbid you at the last second. Discounts are up to 65% off and all their properties have been vetted by their staff.

Luxury Link

Many of their packages include several nights in a suite or superior room, plus extras like massages, dinner one night, or a sightseeing activity or excursion.

In addition to hotels and resorts, Luxury Link also has deals on cruises and tours. And they also have packages you can buy at a pre-determined discounted price.

Read all the fine print carefully, because your bid is binding, and sometimes the packages are only available for certain nights of the week. Check before you bid to make sure your dates are available.

We’ve used Luxury Link several times and have always been very pleased with the accommodations and the value for money.

An invitation-only travel website.

Some of the most successful web businesses the past couple of years have been invitation-only shopping sites. Now Gilt Groupe, one of the pioneers in discount high fashion, has launched Jetsetter.com.

Jetsetter

Although the site is billed as invitation only, we put ourselves on the waiting list and received an invitation two days later. So don’t despair if you don’t know any members.

The way Jetsetter works is that they send you an email of travel sales each day. So far, the discounts seem to be around 50% off the rack rate. And an availability calendar lets you check your dates there and then.

Sales usually last two days or until the inventory sells out. If you can’t make a decision on the spot, you can place a hold on a room for 72 for 10% of the purchase price. It’s applied to the price if you travel, or credited to your account if you don’t.

We haven’t used Jetsetter yet, but they were offering rooms at Le Meurice in Paris for $295 less than their web site.

A travel website that analyzes the saving for you.

Dealbase

Dealbase combs the web for travel deals and then analyzes and quantifies them for you. They compare the offered price to other available rates – including the average 30-day price on hotels.com – and then show you how much you’ll really save.

We used it to compare Honolulu hotels and ended up booking our hotel through it. Right now, the number of places it covers is limited, but they are expanding into other markets.

Read more trip planning advice here.

Restaurant on the ile Saint-Louis

With a better understanding of French culture and more realistic expectations, these problems can usually be avoided. So be sure to do a little trip planning in advance. It will help you feel more relaxed and more confident when you dine in French restaurants – which also aids in digestion.

Before you arrive at the restaurant.

Americans love to eat and run. If we’re not having lunch in the car, we’re eating dinner on the couch in front of the TV. To Americans, dinner and a movie is a single thought.

To the French, dinner is what you do in the evening. It lasts for hours, and it’s not something you hurry through in order to get to something else. So don’t go out to dinner if you don’t have enough time for dinner.

Arriving at a restaurant at 7:30PM when you have to be somewhere at 9:00PM or even 9:30PM, is just asking for trouble. Don’t think that you can just tell the waiter in your fractured French that you’re in a hurry. It won’t make any difference, and you’ll end up very unhappy.

You’ll receive better treatment if you make reservations in advance. If you’re intimidated by speaking French over the phone, have your concierge make the reservations for you. Or stop by if they’re open for lunch and do it in person.

A Boulangerie in the Marais

Unless you want to be the only ones in the restaurant, or surrounded by other Americans, make your dinner reservations for 8:30 or later.

Do dress appropriately. Yes, after wandering the streets of Paris all day, your feet will be tired. But suck it up and wear real shoes to dinner. And change out of your jeans. The better dressed you are, the better you’ll be treated.

And learn at least a few phrases in French.

At the restaurant.

When you come in, wait politely for someone to come to you. Say “bonsoir,” and address that person as “madame,” “monsieur,” or “mademoiselle.” If you have a reservation, tell them your name. And thank them for showing you to your table. Be as polite as you know how to be. And turn off your cell phone.

If you like water with your meal, order a carafe of tap water (un carafe d’eau). It’s free and perfectly acceptable. If you prefer bottled water, order it. But don’t do it to impress anyone. It’ wont.

Don’t order a soft drink unless you enjoy abuse. And don’t order coffee with your meal. Coffee is taken after dinner, and that means after, not with, dessert. House wine (vin de maison) is usually pretty good. If you want something better, ask your waiter to recommend something. As a rule, it’s not necessary to spend a lot to get very good wine. So don’t choose your wine from the right side of the menu.

Do NOT use your hand sanitizer at the table. And try not to leave the table during the meal. It’s considered rude. If the people at the next table can hear your conversation, you’re talking too loudly. And don’t ask to split dishes, or even worse, take something home. The chef has served you his creation at its absolute best. He doesn’t want you eating it tomorrow cold from a carton.

Do expect to be ignored. This is a sign of respect. Think of it this way – the servants at Buckingham Palace don’t stare at the Queen while she eats. They pretend to be invisible. Your server will do this too. If you need to get his attention, try to do so discretely. And whatever you do, don’t say “garcon.”

To the French, rushing you through your meal would be the height of rudeness. The longer it takes them to clear your first course, the more time they’re giving you to enjoy it.

After dinner.

Floating restaurant on the Seine

Once you’re ready for the check — chances are very good that you will not receive it without asking for it — tell your waiter “l’addition, s’il vous plait.” If he’s across the room, make the international “I’m writing in mid-air gesture.”

In France, tax and tip are automatically included in the bill. But it’s customary to leave a 10 to 15% tip in cash. Euros, not dollars. Thank your waiter and anyone else you encountered, and bid them “Bonne nuit.”

Hopefully, these trip planning tips will help you understand the French point of view and feel more comfortable dining in France.

Read more articles about travel in France here.

Castle Nuovo

If you use common sense, keep a close eye on your valuables, and don’t go where you don’t belong – especially after dark – you should be just fine. And you’ll get to enjoy all that Naples has to offer. Not the least of which is great food.

The National Museum of Archaeology is the best in Italy, and a must-do for anyone planning to visit Pompeii. The Bay of Naples, dominated by towering Vesuvius, is one of the most beautiful in the world. And Neapolitan pizza alone is worth the visit.

There are many fine hotels in Naples, and several offer sweeping views of the Bay.

Located in a 19th-cenury, Liberty-style palazzo, Constantinopoli 104 is a short stroll from Piazza Plebscito and the archaeology museum. Many of its 19 rooms, have huge stained-glass windows overlooking the pretty gardens. Some have balconies, others open onto the terrace. The common areas retain the feel of a private villa. And the pool is especially welcome on hot, summer days. Though its convenient to most of Naples’s attractions, once you’re behind its gates, Constantinopoli 104 seems far removed from the hustle and bustle of Naples.

Plebiscito Square Naples

Although it doesn’t look like it from the outside, Grande Hotel Vesuvio is the most historic hotel in Naples. Enrico Caruso died here, and luminaries from Oscar Wilde to Bill Clinton have enjoyed the stellar service. Like Parker’s, Vesuvio is noted for its views. And its large, nicely outfitted rooms with marble baths and Jacuzzi tubs are the most comfortable in town. If you can afford it, reserve a bay view room with a balcony. The food at the roof-top Caruso restaurant is worthy of the view.

Galleria Umberto Naples

Built between 1887 and 1891, Galleria Umberto’s soaring, glass-domed ceilings and intricate iron work make it one of the most beautiful structures in Naples. It was originally intended to house shops, cafes, and businesses. And today, it’s also home to a charming small hotel, Art Resort Galleria Umberto. With only ten rooms, it tends to fill up quickly, often with musicians performing at the San Carlo Opera House, across the street. Rooms have free WiFi, LCD TVs, and balconies, most of which look out over the galleria. Breakfast and late afternoon appetizers are included in the rate.

Read more about Neapolitan food here. And find more Italian hotels here.

Trevi Fountain Rome

But Rome is very much a city of the present. So your trip planning should include some insider experiences that let you enjoy la dolce vita away from the crowds.

Here are some of our tips for having the best possible time in Rome:

* Not that long ago, a visit to Rome involved spending your time waiting in line, often for hours. But Rome’s attractions have entered the 21st century, and now it’s possible to make reservations and purchase tickets for many of them in advance. A service called 060608 lets you reserve museums, exhibitions, concerts, and more with a single telephone call. From the U.S., dial 011-39-060608 between 9AM and 10:30PM Roman time. English-speaking operators can help you make reservations for the Coliseum, the Capitoline Museum, or the Borghese Gallery with just a credit card. Or visit their web site at www.060608.it/en

Borghese Gardens

* Traveling in Rome can be tiring. The incessant buzzing of Vespas — the word means wasp in Italian — the crowds, and the heat can really take it out of you. So why not reenergize yourself the way the ancient Romans did — with a nice hot soak. Rome’s first Turkish bath, or hamman, opened a couple of years ago near Piazza Mattei. At Acqua Madre, you’ll move progressively from cooler to warmer pools, being massaged, steamed, and kneaded along the way. By the time you’re through, you’ll be completely mellow and ready for anything.

* Fans of Art Nouveau, known in Italy as the Liberty style, should allow time to visit the Quartiere Coppede. It’s not far from the Villa Borghese, near the Piazza Buenos Aires. Built between 1919 and 1926 by Florentine architect Gino Coppede, it’s a little architectural wonderland. The entrance, off Via Dora, is through a giant, medieval-looking arch that is covered with reliefs of bees, lions, and mythological creatures. The dozen buildings here feature elaborate ironwork, turrets, mosaic tiles, winding staircase, and elaborate brickwork. Look for the Fountain of the Frogs, the Palazzo of the Spider, and the charming Fairy Cottages.

* Traffic in Rome can be brutal, and the distances between sights can really take a toll on your feet. But there’s another way to see the glory that was Rome — on two wheels. On Sundays, the Via Appia Antica and the Via Fori dei Imperiali are closed to cars and bikes rule the day. There are several bike rental places in town — ask your hotel concierge which is most convenient for you. You can take a guided-tour with a group or just head out on your own. Pedaling past the Coliseum and the olive groves and cypress trees of the old military road is a travel memory you won’t soon forget.

* Antique lovers should head for Via dei Coronari, where more than 40 antique dealers sell everything from furniture to jewelry. The narrow, pedestrian-only street leads all the way to Piazza Navona, and it’s lined with buildings dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The best time to shop is during the Fiera dell’Antiquariato, which takes place in mid-May and mid-October.

Coliseum Rome

* Mozzarella is on virtually every menu in Rome. But no place has as many varieties as Obika, which features “flights” of hand-made mozzarella, including Paestum, Pontina, Smoked, Stracciatella di Burrata and Ricotta di Bufala. In addition to the mozzarella bar, Obika also has traditional antipasti items, salads, crostini from the wood oven, pastas, and desserts. The location in Piazza di Firenze proved so popular that there’s now a second Obika at Piazza Campo dei Fiori.

Read our trip planning tips for Paris here. And find more Italy travel info here.

Our first step used to be consulting sites like Frommers, Fodors, and Tripadvisor. But these days, we’ve reversed the process, and we use those sites to validate our short list. Our new strategy has produced better results for us. So we’re happy to share it with you.

Here are our tips for finding hotels that you’ll love:

* The first step is to figure out what you really want do while you’re there. Is your goal to just relax and unwind, to see every square inch of the city, or to eat in all the best restaurants and shop till you drop? When we went to Kauai, we realized that one thing that we really wanted to do was to swim and surf. It’s hard to believe, but there aren’t many good swimming beaches in Kauai if you visit in winter. Once we narrowed down the choices, it was a pretty simple decision. We ended up renting a vacation rental at Kiahuna Plantation and it was the perfect place for us. If we’d ended up down the road at the Grand Hyatt Kauai — which gets high marks from Fodors, Frommers, and Tripadvisor users — we’d have been unhappy with the rocky beach there.

* Once you have your days figured out, think about your evenings. If you’ll be going full tilt, hiking, biking, or kayaking from dawn until dusk, chances are you won’t want to expend a lot of energy getting dinner. That country inn that’s away from it all may seem a lot less appealing when you’re beat and the nearest restaurant is a 20-minute drive away. Especially if you were thinking a couple of cocktails sounded appealing. Having to eat virtually every meal at an overpriced resort can also take the fun out of things pretty fast. What works for us is staying in a hotel that has a few restaurants within walking distance or a few minutes drive.

* With your daytime and nighttime activities figured out, you should concentrate on which neighborhood puts the things you want to do in easy reach. If you want to dine in Michelin-starred restaurants and shop for haute couture in Paris, you’ll find the 1st or 8th arrondissements convenient. If you prefer bistros and boutiques, choose the 6th — St-Germain-des-Pres. What’s true for real estate is equally true for travel. The most important thing is location, location, location.

* When you know which neighborhood appeals the most to you, figure out how much you want to spend. There are usually accommodations available in a range of prices. When you compare prices, use the superior room price. Standard rooms are actually sub-standard rooms that are the least desirable for one reason or another. Chances are, you won’t be happy in one. When you look at price, also bear in mind that if you stay at a more centrally located hotel, you’ll save on transportation costs. Once you have a short list, use a travel site like hotelscombined.com to check prices. Although most travel sites are owned by the same two or three travel conglomerates, there are some bargains out there. Just be sure that you’re comparing apples to apples and read all the fine print. To us, paying a non-refundable rate in advance isn’t worth saving 10 or 15%. And be sure to contact the hotel directly for a rate. Because there’s no middle man to compensate, the hotel will sometimes give you a better deal.

* Not all hotels have the same amenities. This is especially true in Europe, where many rooms don’t have an alarm clock. So if there’s something you need to feel at home — a pre-dinner cocktail, laundry service, or a wake-up call — confirm in advance that’s it’s available. It only takes a few minutes and it could save you some disappointment.

* Read user reviews on sites like tripadvisor.com, but remember that no matter how great a hotel is, someone will always be disgruntled. Reviews can tip you off to a potential deficiency that might be a deal-breaker for you. But we’ve stayed in hotels that every trip advisor user gave five stars that we really didn’t like. So take the reviews with a grain of salt.

Finding the right hotel isn’t that hard, but the more trip planning you do in advance, the happier you’re likely to be.

Read more travel advice here.

Kodak Theater

The heart of the neighborhood is Hollywood & Highland, where you’ll find the Kodak Theater (where the Academy Awards are handed out), Grauman’s Chinese Theater, and lots of restaurants and shopping.

The area is most exciting at night. And there are several Hollywood hotels that will put you right in the heart of the action.

Hollywood Renaissance Hotel

Opened as part of the glitzy Hollywood & Highland shopping and entertainment complex in 2001, the Renaissance Hollywood Hotel has 635 rooms and suites. Its current claim to fame is that it’s Oscar-central on the night of the Academy Awards. Rooms are large, bright, and colorful with retro-modern furnishings. And upper-floor rooms have good views of the Pacific, downtown, or the Hollywood Hills. The hotel has pretty much everything travelers want – a restaurant, several bars, a swimming pool, a spa, fitness center, and WiFi access. And the up-scale shops and restaurants in the adjoining complex are literally steps away. Since parking – and traffic – can be challenging here – the shuttle to the nearby Hollywood Bowl is a big perk.

Roosevelt Hotel

The Hollywood Roosevelt is once more the place to see and be seen.

The Magic Castle is a Los Angeles institution. Housed in a 1908 mansion, it’s a private club for professional magicians and their guests. To attend dinner and a show there, you need to be invited by a member – or be a guest of the Magic Castle Hotel, just down the hill.

There’s nothing especially magical or castle-like about the hotel. It used to be an apartment building, and that’s what it looks like. But the bigger rooms have fully equipped kitchens, and there’s an inviting heated swimming pool surrounded by tropical landscaping. The hotel is a short stroll to Hollywood and Highland. Service is much better than you’d expect. And it’s the best value in the neighborhood. If you do stay there, dress up and go for dinner and a performance at the Magic Castle. You won’t be disappointed.

Read about other California hotels here.

Kodak Theater image Flickr: livingonimpulse
Renaissance Hollywood Hotel image Flickr: MoToMo
Roosevelt Hotel image Flickry: rolando.pujol

Eze to Cap-Ferrat

If you don’t have a car, there’s both train and bus service from Nice to Eze. Cars aren’t allowed into the village, so if you do drive, you’ll need to park in the lot outside the town gates and walk in. If you take the train, which takes 20 from Nice, you’ll then take the shuttle from the train station up to the village.

With its medieval stone buildings, narrow lanes, beautiful tropical vegetation, and killer views, Eze Village is one of the most appealing towns in the Riviera. And it’s leafy squares, sparkling fountains, artists’ studios, boutiques, and galleries invite you to linger a while.

It’s wonderful to stay here, because you’ll have the village to yourself after the tourists have left. But you’ll need to either be well-off or foresighted. The affordable Eze hotel is booked way in advance.

Eze attractions.

There aren’t a lot of things to do in Eze, but there are a few interesting diversions. In order to avoid tour groups, it’s best to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

The Botanical Gardens are located above the village in the ruined ramparts of a 12th-century castle. There are more than 400 species of exotic plants here, as well as 360-views of the coast from the terrace. There’s a café serving light lunches if you get hungry.

Architecture buffs will enjoy the church of Notre Dame, which dates from 1772. And of course, the shopping in Eze is great. Provencal fabrics, objects made from olive wood, fresh herbs, lavender sachets, and soaps all make good souvenirs.

If you’re feeling ambitious and want some exercise, there are several trails in the area. You can hike up the trail to Mont Bastide or down the Nietzche pathway through groves of pine and olive trees to the spot where he finished Thus Spoke Zarathustra.

Chateau Eza

Eze hotels.

Chateau Eza truly is fit for royalty. The chateau was once the home of Prince William of Sweden. When you first enter the village of Eze, you’ll see two donkeys, which serve as the hotel’s porters. Perched on a 3,000-foot cliff that overlooks St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, the hotel is located in a group of restored 13th-century buildings. Most of the ten rooms have private entrances off the winding, cobbled street, and they are intermingled with charming, cave-like boutiques. The rooms are furnished with fine rugs and tapestries, fine art, canopy beds, fireplaces, and balconies with to-die-for views. If you can’t afford to stay, you can enjoy the view by having a cocktail on the terrace. The restaurant has a Michelin star. Chateau Eza is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group. It’s closed from October through March.

Eze has the good fortune of having not one, but two world-class hotels. The second, Hostellerie du Chateau de la Chevre d’Or, is like a medieval village of its own, though part of it was actually built in the 1920s. Many of the 32 rooms and suites are located in small stone houses that are built into the cliffs. With stone walls, arched windows, wood beams, and fireplaces, they transport you to another era. There are three restaurants, running the gamut from marginally affordable to astronomical, a cliff-side swimming pool, tennis, and a fitness room. As a member of the Relais & Chateaux chain, Chateau de la Chevre d’Or offers impeccable service.

One of the most affordable hotels in Eze, La Bastide aux Camelias is a three-room bed and breakfast located in the park that borders the Grande Corniche. Rooms here are nicely decorated. But the real draw is the veranda where you can have your breakfast or an afternoon cocktail, and the swimming pool. There’s also a spa and Jacuzzi, and free parking.

Eze France

Eze restaurants.

The best known restaurant in Eze, Le Troubadour has been a popular spot since the 1950s, when it was discovered by movie stars, artists, and race car drivers. The three dining rooms in the old house have open beams and creaky floors. The prix fixe menu is a good value and may include braised rabbit, squab, scallops, or John Dory. Reservations are essential.

If Le Troubadour is booked up, Loumiri is a good alternative. Near the entrance to the village, it offers Provencal classics, affordable wines, and great value for money.

Read more articles about France here.

Eze to Cap-Ferrat image Flickr: wit
Chateau Eza image Flickr: ZeHawk
Eze image Flickr: Johny hanging head down from the tree

Eiffel Tower

Over the years, we’ve discovered many trip planning ideas to make your next Paris vacation more rewarding – whether it’s your first visit, or your fortieth.

Here are our top ten tips for enjoying Paris like a local:

1) If you want to use the Velib free bicycle system, bring an American Express card. Most European countries have switched to chip-and-PIN credit cards, also known as Smart Cards. Your U.S.-issued Visa or Mastercard probably won’t work in the Velib kiosks, which is really irritating if you planned on getting around the city by bicycle. Your magnetic stripe card will still work with most card readers, though the person waiting on you in a store or restaurant may not know it. Ask them politely to swipe your card and follow the instructions on the terminal. Your card probably won’t work at kiosks for train tickets, etc. and you’ll have to wait in line for service.

2) Wouldn’t it be great if you had cool, foodie friends who lived in Paris and were having you for dinner at their place. Hidden Kitchen is the next best thing. If you’re lucky enough to score reservations, you can enjoy a 10-course tasting menu with wine pairings at the home of food consultants Laura and Braden. Dinners are served on Saturday and Sunday nights. The menu is finalized on the day of the dinner, depending on what’s best at the market. But past menus have included roasted sea bass, crispy pork belly, or skillet-fried polenta with braised wild mushrooms. Visit www.hkmenus.com for more info.

Pages Jaunes

3) When you know where you’ll be staying in Paris, it’s helpful to find restaurants, shops, and other services nearby. One of the handiest and most comprehensive sources of information is the Paris Yellow Pages, or Pages Jaunes. Although the site is in French, it’s pretty easy to figure out, and you should be brushing up on your French anyway. Just enter what you’re looking for, such as restaurants, and then enter the address of your hotel. You’ll get a list and an accompanying map. But that’s just the start. Click on “vue aerienne” and you’ll see the establishment from the air. To see it from street level, click “Photo.” You can also get detailed maps and directions in the “Itineraire” section. It’s a great tool for getting your bearings before you leave home. Make http://www.pagesjaunes.fr part of your trip planning strategy.

4) Speaking of places to stay in Paris, why not opt for something completely different and stay aboard a beautifully restored 1916 Dutch barge. Bateau Simpatico is moored on Quai Suffren right beneath the Eiffel Tower. Owner Bob Abrams rents the barge by the week to lucky travelers who enjoy the best of both worlds — being right in the heart of Paris, yet having their own little slice of heaven floating on the Seine. The barge has a fully outfitted kitchen, a washing machine, and everything you need for a perfect week in Paris. Pick up some wine and cheese at the market, the relax up on deck and watch the sightseeing boats go by. When you turn in for the night, you’ll be gently rocked to sleep. Visit http://www.quai48parisvacation.com for more information.

5) When we lay out our travel wardrobe, black features prominently. It goes with virtually everything, doesn’t show stains or wrinkles, and won’t get dirty the first time you wear it – unless you take a stroll through the gardens of Paris. Most of Paris’s garden paths, and the ones that run parallel to the Champs Elysees aren’t paved. And they’re very dusty. A quick stroll down one of these romantic lanes will completely trash the black slacks you planned to wear to dinner. Be advised, and wear khaki instead.

Fouquet’s Jewelry Store in the Musee Carnavalet

7) Berthillon has long been lauded as the best ice cream in Paris. But our pick is just down the rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile on the Ile Saint Louis. Amorino specializes in ice creams you might find in Rome — zabaglione, hazelnut, amoretto — and it’s every bit as good. If you’re not going to the Ile Saint Louis, don’t despair. There are twelve Amorinos throughout the city.

8) Paris is a city that deserves a fantastic soundtrack. And Radio France FIP supplies it. On any given night, you’ll hear music from the 1930s to the present, from all over the world. Jazz, R&B, Brazilian, Cuban, blues, chill, and classical — everything but advertising. To get inspired, listen online at http://sites.radiofrance.fr/chaines/fip/endirect/index.php while you’re planning your trip.

9) After a week of fabulous French food, we start to crave something with big, bold flavors. And a sloppy, gloppy falafel from L’as du Fallafel in the Marais is just the ticket. The fried, chickpea patties are folded into a pita and topped with hummus, fried eggplant, pickled cabbage, salted cukes, and some not-too-spicy harissa.

10) Taxidermy has never been high on our list of interests — until we went to Deyrolle. Established in 1831, Deyrolle is located on Rue du Bac in the 7th. In addition to stuffed lions, tigers, zebras — there’s even a trotting elephant — there are shells, insects, ostrich eggs, butterflies, and rare minerals. It’s like an incredible, free museum of natural history that you can do in a fraction of the time. Only in Paris.

Read more trip planning articles here.

Read more articles about travel in France here.

Since many house swaps include the use of a family car, transportation expenses are reduced. And you’ll likely be eating more meals in than you would otherwise, so you’ll save on dining too. Plus, you’ll get to experience your destination like a local.

No matter where you want to go, whether it’s Florida or Florence, chances are, there are house exchange properties available there.

How house exchange programs works.

There are several house exchange programs online. The best have been around since the 1950s. The usual first step is to register with one and then decide where you want to go. Most charge around $100, give or take, for a one-year membership. There are some free services available, but the quality of homes – and renters – is usually better with one of the paid services.

Once you’ve signed up, and sometimes even before, you’ll be able to search the agency’s database for homes to swap. Some agencies also have printed directories of the homes that participate.

The most common type of house exchange is simultaneous. That is to say that you and the people you are trading houses with coordinate schedules and you stay in their house while they stay in yours. So obviously, you’ll need to plan as far in advance as possible.

Most house exchanges last from one to four weeks so it’s best to choose a destination with plenty to see and do. Find a spot that makes it easy to do a number of interesting day trips, and then start searching in that area.

The more desirable the location of your home, the more likely you are to find home owners willing to swap houses with you. Try to be realistic about the desirability of your property.

How to exchange your home for another.

Once you’ve found some properties that you’re interested in – having just one is likely to lead to disappointment – contact the owners to let them know your interest. Try to present your home in its most appealing light, but be scrupulously honest and don’t exaggerate. If you can provide lots of pictures, do. They truly are worth a thousand words.

Let your potential exchange mate know what there is to do in your area. You may think it’s obvious to everyone that Disneyworld is convenient to your Orlando home. But someone in Rome may not know that. Tell them what’s within walking distance, what’s five minutes away, where they can buy groceries, etc.

Before you finalize any house exchanges, make sure all the details are spelled out. Is the use of a car included? Will the guests care for your pets? Will they water your plants? May they use your computer? Then, put it all in writing. Chances are that your house exchange agency will have sample forms you can use.

Check with your insurance carriers – both home and auto – to make sure everything is covered. Insurers often prefer having guests in a home to having it vacant.

If you’re worried about leaving your home to strangers – and who isn’t – offer to introduce your guests to some friends who can welcome them to the area and check up on your place at the same time. The more you get to know the others before you exchange houses, the more comfortable you’ll feel trading places with them.

Before you exchange houses.

Most house swappers will leave their guests detailed information about the area and its attractions as well as contact information, restaurant tips, and emergency numbers, including the number of your insurance agent. Leave detailed instructions for how to use the TV remote, turn on the pool heater, or arm the burglar alarm system – anything that they won’t automatically know how to use. If you need to insert the key a certain way to open the door, say so. And if your car has any peccadillos, mention those too.

Take your valuables to the safety deposit box, or put them in a safe, if you have one. Give your house a thorough cleaning, or pay to have it cleaned. Empty your refrigerator – except for a welcome bottle of wine and some staples as a convenience. And make some storage space available in closets and drawers.

Then, relax and enjoy living like a native somewhere far from home.

Learn about vacation rentals here.

Read more trip planning tips here.

Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza

Most Healdsburg hotels are within walking distance of the plaza, which has concerts, and farmers’ markets in summer, and tree-lightings and holiday markets in winter. A building boom in the 1870s produced many charming Victorian mansions, and several have been turned into world-class inns.

Healdsburg hotels on or near the plaza.

The only true luxury hotel in Healdsburg, Les Mars Hotel was opened in 2005 by a family of European hoteliers. As a member of the Relais & Chateaux group, service is extremely professional. When you enter the lobby with its Flemish tapestries, Louis XIV furniture, and wrought-iron balustrade, you may think you stepped into a French chateau. The 16 guest rooms and public areas are furnished with 18th- and 19th-century antiques, four poster beds, and white marble bathrooms. Many of the rooms have fireplaces and double showers or jetted soaking tubs. Third-floor rooms have 20-foot beamed ceilings and are between 425 and 550 square feet. The swimming pool is a welcome feature on warm August days. And the on-site Cyrus restaurant has won numerous awards, including two Michelin stars. Les Mars is one of the most expensive Sonoma Valley hotels.

Hotel Healdsburg

One of the Four Sisters Inns group, Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza is a nice choice for those who want the convenience of staying on the plaza. One of the best things about their inns is the quality of food and how often they feed you. From gourmet breakfasts in the mornings, to afternoon wine and hors d‘oeuvres, to evening sherry and cookies, eating well is part of the Four Sisters experience and it makes their properties a good value too. The inn was built in 1901, and its twelve beautifully restored rooms have high ceilings, fireplaces, bay windows, and other charming architectural touches.

Not far from the plaza, The Honor Mansion is in a restored Italianate Victorian that dates from 1883. Each of the rooms is unique, but all are beautifully decorated with nice fabrics and antiques. Thoughtful amenities like bathrobes, featherbeds, and imported toiletries make guests feel, pampered. There are five rooms in the mansion, several luxurious suites, and a private cottage. Many of the suites have decks, some with spa tubs. Guests can enjoy the lap pool, sun decks, and gardens. A gourmet breakfast in included each morning and sherry and biscuits are laid out in the evening. The Honor Mansion is a AAA Four Diamond Award winner.

Healdsburg hotels outside of town.

Madrona Manor

Also located in an old Victorian mansion, Madrona Manor is surrounded by eight acres of landscaped grounds, gardens, and woods. Because of the lovely setting, it’s a very popular wedding venue. And the excellent restaurant makes the most of the produce from the organic gardens. It’s about a mile from downtown Healdsburg. A variety of accommodations is available — 26 rooms with fireplaces or balconies, and five suites with separate bedrooms and living rooms. The swimming pool is heated during the season. Madrona Manor has won every award imaginable, and the restaurant has a Michelin star. Madrona Manor is one of the most popular hotels in Healdsburg.

The Sonoma Valley countryside is truly beautiful, and the Belle de Jour Inn offers the best of both worlds — a quiet countryside setting with easy access to town. A Victorian farmhouse, and five guest cottages from the 1870s are spread out over six acres that overlook the surrounding vineyards. Some rooms have fireplaces, decks, four-poster beds, or whirlpool tubs. All have wood floors, high ceilings, and luxurious bathrooms. The second-story caretaker’s room is especially nice. A full breakfast is included. Belle de Jour is a great choice for those who like peace and quiet.

Find Yountville hotel recommendations here. Or find Calistoga hotels here.

Hotel Healdsburg Hotel Image Flickr: melissaclark
Madrona Manor Image Flickr: jaybergesen

Marrakech Villa

Rental Villa Image Flickr: SarahC1978

Arles, France

If the surrounding landscape looks familiar, it’s because it’s little changed since van Gogh painted it around 1881.  You can see drawings by Picasso, and work by other Provencal artists at the Musee Reattu.  And visit Espace van Gogh, the hospital where he was treated.   It now contains a small van Gogh museum. 

There’s a colorful market on Wednesdays in Boulevard Emile Combes and Saturdays on Boulevard des Lices.  It’s a good place to pick up cheese, wine, and other picnic supplies.

Farmers Market in Arles

The other Roman sites in Arles are what remains of the Roman Theater, the ancient cemetery known as Les Alyscamp, the Cryptoportiques, and Constantine’s Palace.

St-Trophime is a UNESCO World-Heritage church that dates from the 12th century.  The cloisters and Romanesque portal of the church are beautiful.

Two specialties of Arles are Daube, a beef stew made with red wine, and Gardianne, stew with beef and olives.

The best Arles hotels for sightseeing and shopping.

Arles Fountain

Walking distance to all of Arles attractions, the Grand Hotel Nord-Pinus is located right on the Place du Forum.  It’s a see-and-be-seen kind of place with vibrant public areas and stylish rooms decorated with expensive fabrics and French doors.  The hotel has quite a history.  Picasso lived here, and Hemingway, John Huston, and Jean Cocteau were frequent guests.  Today, the turn-of-the-century townhouse does a good job of balancing old and new.  From the wrought-iron balustrade to the dramatic photos by Peter Beard, it’s a stylish place that oozes personality.  The cozy bar and first-rate brasserie are popular with locals, as well as guests.  Rooms are furnished with antiques, hand-woven rugs, and original art.   The Nord-Pinus isn’t for everyone, but no other Arles hotel can match it’s bravado. 

Housed in an old 17th-century convent, the Hotel Jules Cesar is one of the most reliable hotels in Arles.   With a heated outdoor swimming pool, lovely gardens, and one of the best restaurants in town, the Jules Cesar has everything you need for an enjoyable stay.  As a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group, the service is top notch.  The 56 spacious rooms are decorated in the Provencal style with antiques and include amenities like satellite television and mini bars.   Breakfast is served in the old Cloisters and there’s a beautiful Baroque chapel next door which is used for conferences.  Rooms in the new addition are less charming than those in the original convent. 

Also in an old building — in this case, the 15th-century stone home of the former Arlatan counts — the Hotel d’Arlatan has been managed by the same family since the 1920s.  A glass floor in the lobby reveals the ruins of a 4th-century palace built by Constantine.   Rooms are furnished with antiques and local fabrics.  Many have stone walls, tile floors, and beamed ceilings. The best overlook the gardens and its fountain, where breakfast is served.  The outdoor swimming pool is very refreshing in summer, and there’s a bar.  Hotel d’Arlatan has lots of atmosphere and a wonderful location in the heart of the historic part of Arles.

Read what to see and do in Provence and the south of France here . Or find other trip planning information for France here.

Arles image Flickr: Wolfgang Staudt
Arles Farmers Market image Flickr: basykes
Arles Fountain image Flickr: daneen_vol

Bouchon in Yountville California

Uber-chef Thomas Keller’s flagship, The French Laundry, is here.  As are his Bouchon and Ad Hoc.  You’ll need to reserve months in advance to eat at the former, but depending on when you visit, you may be able to nab a table without a reservation and Bouchon or Ad Hoc.  If you’re in town on Monday, don’t miss the fried chicken at Ad Hoc.

Keller’s not the only celebrity chef in town.  Michael Chiarello of Napa Style fame opened Bottega last year.  It features dishes from all over Italy.   Bistro Jeanty and Redd are also great choices.

Learn more about Yountville restaurants here.

The best Yountville wineries. 

Located right off the St. Helena Highway, Domaine Chandon was the first joint venture between a French and California winery.  If you’ve never seen how sparkling wine is made, it’s worth taking the tour.  The grounds here are lovely, so be sure to leave time for a stroll through the gardens.  And there are beautiful views from the restaurant and patio.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars gained notoriety in 1976 when their wine bested the French in the 1976 blind taste test reenacted in the movie Bottle Shock.  Some of the tastiest Chardonnays in California come from Stag’s Leap. 

The best hotels in Yountville.

Vintage Inn Yountville

Right on Washington Street, the Vintage Inn is a great choice for a romantic weekend in the Napa Valley.  It‘s one of the most refined hotels in Yountville and it’s mere steps from the best restaurants in town.  The two-story buildings are thoughtfully arranged on two acres of  beautiful gardens and plantings.  Some of the rooms have balconies overlooking the vineyards.   Others have small, private patios.  Bathrooms are big and luxurious, and each room has a fireplace.  The pool is one of the most attractive in Yountville.  And there’s a full-service spa.   A bottle of local wine and a breakfast buffet are included.

Villagio Inn and Spa is a sister property to the Vintage Inn.  Both are AAA Four-Diamond award winners.  The 112 rooms are also in two-story buildings spread out on nicely landscaped grounds.  Rooms have patios or balconies, fireplaces, and flat-screen TVs.  The big draw here is the 13,000-square-foot luxury spa that opened in 2008.  Surrounded by fountains and reflecting pools, the spa has 16 treatment rooms and 5 spa suites with soaking tubs, fireplaces, day beds, and private terraces.   Also on the property is V Marketplace where there are shops, including Napa Style, and restaurants.

Maison Fleurie Yountville

Read our comprehensive itinerary for the Napa and Sonoma Valleys.  Or read our recommended Calistoga hotels.

Chateau Montelena, Calistoga California

Calistoga is a low-key, unpretentious town with a laid-back main street lined with shops and restaurants. There are also several good wineries close to town. Chateau Montelena is one of the most appealing. Housed in a French-style chateau that dates from the 19th century, their 1973 Chardonnay beat the French at their own game in a 1976 blind taste test. The story was told in the movie Bottle Shock. The Chinese gardens surrounding the pond here are a pleasant place for a picnic.

The other must-see winery in Calistoga is Clos Pegase. Michael Graves designed the building in 1986 as a Temple of Wine. The grounds and courtyard are adorned with modern statuary and there’s modern art in the tasting room. The wine is very good, especially the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Lovers of bubbly should include Schramsberg on their itinerary. The tour here is one of the best in Napa Valley, and you’ll see the 19th-century tunnels dug by Chinese laborers. The tour ends with a tasting of some of the best California sparkling wines.

The best hotels in Calistoga.

Calistoga Geyser

Solage Calistoga is the second best hotel in Calistoga. The 89 green rooms here are modern and well equipped with polished concrete floors, fireplaces, and outdoor patios. Solage Calistoga also has a huge heated swimming pool, a fitness center, yoga studio, and a 20,000-square-foot spa that makes the most of the local mineral water and hot springs. The bocce courts are a nice place to while away a beautiful summer afternoon. Other thoughtful touches include the free bicycles and telescopes available for guests to enjoy during their stay. And you can even bring your dog.

Calistoga California

The 16 inviting cottages at Cottage Grove Inn have fireplaces, two-person whirlpool tubs, vaulted ceilings, porches with rockers, and hardwood floors. Curl up by the fire in one of the over-stuffed chairs. The wet bar and mini fridge make it easy to enjoy the local wine in your room. You can walk to Calistoga’s restaurants or take one of the complimentary loaner bicycles. Continental breakfast and late-afternoon wine and cheese are included and are served in the lovely breakfast area. Cottage Grove Inn is a great spot for a romantic weekend away. And with rates starting at $250 a night, its one of the less expensive Calistoga hotels.

Meadowlark Inn is situated on a 20-acre private estate not far from Calistoga. Guests can walk through the meadow and forest and enjoy the country atmosphere. The property is also home to the owners’ European sport horses. There are plenty of places to relax outdoors and take in the beautiful scenery. The large, mineral pool is clothing optional. Many of the rooms here have four-poster beds, French doors that open onto private patios, and marble bathrooms. Several cottages with kitchens are also available. A gourmet breakfast is included in the rate.

Those who prefer a downtown Calistoga hotel will enjoy the Mount View Hotel and Spa. Located in a 1917 building that’s now a National Historic Landmark, Mount View has 20 rooms and 12 suites to choose from. For a romantic getaway, opt for the Artist Cottage with private patio and Jacuzzi. Behind the hotel, there’s a heated outdoor pool with private cabanas. The day spa on the ground floor offers every treatment you could want. There are two restaurants on site — Bar Vino, a wine bar and trattoria, and JoLe, a contemporary restaurant that focuses on organic ingredients.

Find our recommended hotels in Yountville here. And find our Napa and Sonoma Valley itinerary.

Castello Scaligero, Sirmione Italy

Sirmione hotels are available in all price ranges. And it’s a great place to unwind.

It was first appreciated by the Romans who discovered hot springs and built baths here. Sirmione was later ruled by the Veronese and Venetians, whose architectural legacy adds to the resort’s appeal. Much of the old town is closed to automobile traffic, making it ideal to explore on foot.

With its moat and turrets, 13th-century Castello Scaligero is pretty impressive. It was the home of the ruling family of Verona, and it’s worth climbing the towers for views of the lake. The castle serves as the only land-based entrance to the old town.

Grotte di Catullo, Lake Garda

Lake Garda is one of the cleanest lakes in the region, and temperatures are inviting from May through September. So be sure to get in the water. The best place for swimming is the Lido delle Bionde beach, where you can rent beach chairs, umbrellas, and water sports equipment.

The best hotels in Sirmione.

The most luxurious hotel in Sirmione, Villa Cortine is a 19th-century Palladian villa set in a beautifully landscaped 12-acre park. The property slopes gently down to the lake where there’s a private beach and boat launch. Service here is the best you’ll find on Lake Garda and guests want for nothing. A wing was added in the 1950s and while the rooms here lack the charm of those in the original villa, they have better views of the lake. The flagstone terrace with its colonnade is a lovely place for a meal or a cocktail. In addition to two restaurants, Villa Cortine also has beach barbecues in summer. And the staff is happy to arrange virtually any activity you can think of.

Hotel Sirmione, Lake Garda

Another choice for those who want to stay in the heart of the old town is Hotel Speranza, Occupying the upper floors of an arcade on the main piazza, it’s steps from the castle and the lake. The 13 rooms here are simple, with modern furniture and parquet floors. And there’s a small lobby and breakfast rooms. Speranza is an affordable property, conveniently located for enjoying all Sirmione has to offer.

Located on a hilltop on the Sirmione Peninsula not far from the Roman ruins, Olivi offers beautiful views of the lake from the pretty terrace and from most of the 58 rooms. Set in a grove of century-old pine and olive trees and decorated in the earth tones that are traditional in the area, Olivi has a lot of character. The swimming pool is surrounded by gardens, and spa services and massages are available.

The Eden is best known as the residence of Ezra Pound, who lived here in the 1920s. It’s recently been updated and the modern bathrooms with big tubs are especially appreciated. The open lobby leads to a lovely terrace overlooking the lake. And there’s a pier for swimming. Many of the recently redecorated rooms have lake views.

The 16 rooms at Grifone are some of the best values in Sirmione. Located right next to the castle on the lake, the hotel occupies an old stone building that’s covered with vines. Rooms on the upper floors have small balconies overlooking the lake, and there’s a restaurant and a bar. The décor is simple, but service is cordial – it’s a family-run business – and Grifone is a very pleasant spot.

Similar to Grifone, but without the lake-front location, Corte Regnia is also located in an old stone building on a side street in the old town. The 14 attractive rooms have been updated and equipped with new bathrooms. Service is friendly. There’s a sunny terrace for enjoying the nice weather. And the restaurant is good too.

Find other Lake Garda hotels and attractions.

Castello Scaligero image Flickr: cjnzja
Grotte di Catullo image Flickr: edo-finelight
Hotel Sirmione image Flickr: Taver

Villa il Vittoriale, Lake Garda

Lake Garda is one of the cleanest lakes in Italy, and Riva del Garda is a popular windsurfing destination. There are several Lake Garda resorts to choose from, each with a distinct ambience.

Most of the better Lake Garda hotels have access to the lake, a swimming pool, water sports equipment rentals, tennis, and other activities. And most close between October and May.

Gardone Riviera hotels and attractions.

Best known for Villa il Vittoriale, the home of poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, Gardone Riviera is on the western shore of the lake. The ornately decorated Villa is one of the few must-see attractions in the area. D’Annunzio lived here from 1921 until his death in 1938. He spent years working with architect Giancarlo Maroni to transform the estate into a very singular place. You’ll see Liszt’s piano, Beethoven’s death mask, a boat protruding from a hillside, and countless works of art.

Gardone has a lower town on the banks of the lake and an upper town on a rolling hillside above the lake. The two are joined by the Giardino Botanico Hruska, the beautiful gardens owned by artist Andre Heller. The gardens were first laid out in 1910 and there are more than 2,000 species of plants.

If you’re in the area on the weekend, there’s a lively market at the Piazza dei Martiri della Liberta in the town of Salo, on Saturday mornings.

There are several good hotels in Gardone Riviera.

Dating from 1903, Villa Fiordaliso is the most architecturally interesting Lake Garda hotel. The pink-and-white Liberty style villa – as Art Nouveau is known in Italy – has hosted many notables over the years, and was once the home of Mussolini’s mistress. It’s a member of the Relais & Chateaux chain. With just seven rooms, it’s one of the most exclusive Lake Garda resorts, and the most expensive. The restaurant has received a Michelin star and when the weather’s fine, you can enjoy your meal right at the water’s edge. Each of the rooms is elaborately decorated with marble, antiques, parquet floors, and frescoes ceilings. It’s hard to imagine a more beautiful place to stay.

One of the most photographed spots in Gardone, the Grand Hotel Fasano began life in the 19th century as an Austrian hunting lodge. Not only does it enjoy a wonderful lake-front setting, it also adjoins a 12,000-square-mile private park. There’s a small pier for swimming, and a series of nicely landscaped terraces and gardens. There are several restaurants and even a sushi bar. The breakfast buffet served on the terrace is a great way to start the day, and the public areas are undeniably grand. Many of the 75 rooms have terraces, and all have modern bathrooms. For a more exclusive experience, you can upgrade to one of the 12 units in Villa Principe, which are slightly larger and set away from the main complex in small grove.

Winston Churchill was a frequent guest of the Grand Hotel Gardone, which was built in 1884. The lovely Liberty style bar here is named for him, and it’s still a smashing place for a cocktail. One of the larger Lake Garda hotels, the Grand has 143 well-furnished rooms and 23 large suites. Most of them have views of the lake. And they’ve been updated with minibars, satellite LCD TVs, Internet access, and safes. The Wellness Zone offers every imaginable health and beauty treatment. And the lovely terrace is practically at lake level. The Grand is an excellent choice in Gardone.

One of the few Lake Garda hotels that’s not on the lake, five-star Villa del Sogno has gorgeous views of the lake nonetheless. Set in a beautiful private park punctuated with neo-Classical temples and surrounded by woods, Villa del Sogno is one of the most romantic places on Lake Garda. The public areas and rooms are furnished with turn-of-the-century antiques. Guests can swim in the beautiful pool, sunbathe on the roof-top terrace, or play tennis. During the summer, concerts are often held on the terrace and full moons are a special occasion here.

Located in a park on Lake Garda, Villa Maria Elisabetta is a monastery that offers simple accommodations, many of which have lake views. Most of the 47 rooms have private baths. And there’s a TV room, a dining room, bar, and sun deck. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better value in Gardone.

Riva del Garda hotels and attractions.

Riva del Garda, Italy

At the north end of Lake Garda, Riva del Garda is backed by steep, wooded cliffs that rise dramatically from the water. When it’s breezy, you’ll see lots of windsurfers on the lake. The town has several lake-front parks and pebbly beaches, and the waterfront is lined with boutiques, cafes, and gelati shops.

The striking medieval tower rising from Riva del Garda’s main piazza is the 13th-century Torre d’Apponale. If it’s open, climb it for spectacular views of the lake and surrounding hills. La Rocca Castle and its exhibition of local art is also worth a visit. The tourist office has walking tours on weekends. But a leisurely stroll along the waterfront promenade is equally rewarding.

Although the name implies a historic property, the Hotel du Lac et du Parc is a modern hotel with 159 rooms. The private-park setting is the big draw here. And there’s a beach with water sports rentals. The large pool is especially appealing, and the wellness center offer a variety of treatments. The 45 new Murialdo Suites include kitchenettes. And there are also 33 bungalows in the park. Hotel du Lac certainly isn’t the most romantic place around, but it’s a good choice for families.

Hotel Sole enjoys the best location in Riva del Garda. The main piazza is on one side, and the lake is on the other. Located in a 15th-century palazzo with a grand staircase, ornate antiques, and Persian rugs, it’s a slightly formal place. But the rooms are warm and comfortable. The ones with balconies are worth the extra cost. And there’s no better spot in town for a drink than the rooftop terrace. Sole offers good value for money in Riva.

Budget accommodations are few and far between here, but Montanara – a popular local trattoria – has nine rooms above the restaurant. The old town location is convenient, and the rooms, though basic, are clean. Both private and shared baths are available, so if you care, make sure you know what you’re getting.

Limone sul Garda hotels and attractions.

Limone Lake Garda, Italy

If you’re serious about windsurfing, Capo Reamol has it’s own school where you can learn the basics. Other water sports equipment is available to rent, as well as mountain bikes. Most of the 58 spacious rooms here have lake views. B rooms have balconies, and A rooms have large terraces with deck chairs for relaxing. The pool is on a terrace that looks out over the lake. The bar and restaurant offer panoramic views.

Surrounded by palms and featuring a lovely terrace restaurant right on Lake Garda, Le Palme is one of the nicest hotels in Lake Garda. Because there are only 28 rooms here, Le Palme often fills up quickly. But others can be accommodated at the Splendid Palace, a sister hotel. Guests of Le Palme can use the large pool there. Many rooms have lake views, and a few have small balconies. There’s a small swimming pool on site and a beach that’s within walking distance.

Find our recommended Sirmione hotels.

Villa il Vittoriale image Flickr: °Simo°
Riva del Garda image Flickr: mawel
Limone Lake Garda image Flickr: cooldudeandy01

Alghero

But Alghero on the northwestern side of the island is a charming destination.  And Alghero hotels are much less expensive than those on the Costa Smeralda.

Alghero was first settled in the tenth century by the Genoese, who defended it from the Moors.  But the biggest influence came from the Spanish who conquered the area in the 14th century.  In fact, Alghero is sometimes called “Little Barcelona” because of the Spanish architecture and presence of Catalan language, which is still spoken here.

The town’s narrow lanes, cobbled streets, and tiny piazzas are lined with quaint bars, restaurants, and shops.  The old town is surrounded by fortress walls and several towers, many of which date from the 16th century.  And two churches — the Duomo and San Michele — are worth visiting.

There’s an excellent beach north of town.  And Neptune’s Grotto, a dreamy cave filled with spectacular stalactites and stalagmites, is reached by a short boat trip from Alghero.

The best hotels in Alghero for exploring the area.  

Cap Caccia, Alghero

Villa las Tronas has the most impressive pedigree of any hotel in Alghero.  The turn-of-the-century villa was the home of the Italian royals when they vacationed in Sardinia.  Located on a rocky promontory that juts out into the sea, five-star Villa Las Tronas has just 25 rooms and suites.  It’s a brief stroll from town, but the noise of the city is blocked out by the park-like grounds.  A series of piers and terraces over the sea are ideal spots for sunbathing.  And the elegant public areas feature marble floors, antiques, and crystal chandeliers.  Service is professional, and there‘s a full-service spa.  Villa las Tronas is the top choice of Alghero hotels.

Walking distance from the center or town, Carlos V is just up the road from Villa la Tronas.  Each of the rooms here has a balcony, with a view of the ocean or the property’s lovely gardens.  One of two five-star hotels in Alghero, it was renovated in 2006.   The rooms are spacious and modern, and the salt-water pool is huge. The location here is hard to beat, and the views from the pool, dining room, and bar are sensational.

El Faro Hotel

Dating from the 18th century, the Alghero Resort Country Hotel has retained some of the original charm.  The 22 rooms have wooden beams and tile floors, but they’ve been thoroughly updated with LCD TVs and WiFi Internet access.  The resort is painted in traditional Sardinian colors, and because of the rural surroundings, it really does have a country feel.  With a spa, fitness center, horseback riding, bike rentals, and tennis courts, you won’t run out of things to do.  The patio restaurant looks out over a valley and features a seasonal menu.

Once the convent of the Church of San Francisco, the 20 rooms at San Francesco surround a cloister that dates from the 14th century.  Several original Roman columns are in the cloister.  The location in the historic old town is convenient for restaurants and shopping.  The rooms are simply furnished, but they’re clean and functional.  And prices are reasonable.  San Francesco has more character than any other Alghero hotel.  

Find more trip planning tips for travel to Italy. 

Alghero Image Flickr: xagra
Cap Caccia Image Flickr: ComùnicaTI
El Faro Hotel Image Flickr: gio_greco

Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni

It’s arguably the most beautiful town in the lakes.  And if you keep your eyes peeled, you might spot local resident George Clooney water skiing.

Bellagio hotels run the gamut from luxurious to simple, so even travelers of modest means should be able to afford a couple of unforgettable nights here.  If ever a place was worth splurging, Bellagio is.

Most of the hotels in Bellagio close for the winter, usually from November or December through March or April.  And the smaller ones fill up several months in advance during peak season.  So if you have your heart set on a place, book early. 

Bellagio, Lake Como

Right across from the main dock, the Hotel du Lac overlooks Bellagio’s pretty main square.  The hotel has been in business for 150 years, and owned by the same family for more than 50.  It takes advantage of smashing lake views at every turn – from the restaurant under the arcade to the roof-top terrace garden, a great spot for an afternoon cocktail.  Rooms have minibars and satellite TV.   With terraces or balconies overlooking the lake, the superior rooms here are worth the added expense.  There’s WiFi Internet access in the common areas.   And guests can use the pool and health club facilities at the Bellagio Sporting Club.

Originally a private estate, Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni was transformed into a hotel in 1873.  Since then, it’s hosted royalty and celebrities, from Winston Churchill to JFK.    With its gorgeous park-like setting, spectacular staircases, Murano glass chandeliers, ornate frescoes, and gold leaf antiques, Ville Sebelloni is the only five-star deluxe Bellagio hotel.  If you can’t afford to stay here, come for dinner at the grand terrace restaurant, which offers one of the best views of Lake Como.  The chef has been awarded a Michelin star.

In addition to indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a private dock, full-service spa, tennis courts, and an exercise room, Villa Serbelloni also has a private beach on Lake Como where you can rent watersports equipment.

Above Villa Serbelloni on a hill overlooking the lake, Residence Ulivo is a less expensive alternative for those who plan to spend a week or more.  Each of the 12 units here has a private sitting area and kitchenette, and some have lake views.  There are apartments designed for 2, 4, or 6 people.  Guests have access to all the facilities at the hotel, many of which, including a covered pool, the spa, and a restaurant, stay open for Residence Ulivo guests even when the hotel is closed.  This is a nice alternative for those who want more space than a traditional hotel room offers.

Family-owned Hotel Belvedere also opened in the 1880s.  Pride of ownership is evident throughout the hotel and the service is professional and attentive.   The 59 modern rooms and suites are located in three buildings in a private park.  They have nice touches like safe deposit boxes and marble bathrooms.  Suites have Jacuzzi tubs.  And deluxe rooms have lake-view balconies or patios.  The terraced gardens leading down to the lake are lovely, and there’s a swimming pool and off-street parking.  The Belvedere also has three apartments with separate entrances.  This is one of the largest Bellagio hotels, and one of the nicest.  Chances are, you won’t be disappointed here. 

Bellagio, Italy

Two of Bellagio’s popular lake-side trattorias have rooms on the floors above the restaurant – La Pergola and Silvio.  If you’re looking for affordable Bellagio accommodations, both have tidy rooms, most with private bath and lake views.

Find more tips on things to do and see in the Italian lakes here.  Or check out more Italian trip planning information here. 

Serbelloni Image Flickr: Frankensteinnn
Bellagio and Bellagio Port Image Flickr: MACSURAK

Bergamo, Italy

Bergamo hotels, especially those in Bergamo Alta, tend to be fully booked months in advance during high season, so plan ahead.

In the upper town, Piazza Vecchio has a 12th-century clock tower, law courts dating from the same period, and a 16th-century library. The Cappella Colleoni — a beautiful chapel designed by Amadeo for the captain who ruled Bergamo on behalf of the Venetians in the 15th century — is in the adjoining Piazza del Duomo. The ornate pink and white marble façade features twisting columns and a rose window. Inside, there’s a ceiling by Tiepolo and a high altar with scenes from the Life of Christ.

Also on Piazza del Duomo are the octagonal Baptistery and the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Gaetano Donizetti was born in Bergamo and he is entombed in a sarcophagus in the basilica. Visitors to the church should look for the intricate choir stalls designed by Lorenzo Lotto. And opera fans will enjoy the Donizetti Museum, in the house where the composer was born.

Bergamo’s art gallery, the Galleria dell’Accademia Carrara, has paintings by all the Italian masters, including Botticelli, Titian, and Raphael. The collection is especially strong in Venetian painting. It’s a must-visit for art lovers and surprisingly impressive.

The best Bergamo hotels in the upper town.

Most visitors to Bergamo want to stay in the medieval upper town. Since the are only a few hotels in Bergamo located there, you’ll need to make reservation well in advance to secure a room.

Mere steps from Piazza Vecchia on a cobbled street filled with shops and restaurants, Hotel Piazza Vecchia is housed in an old three-story townhouse that dates from the 14th century. The owners have managed to combine the best of old and new with stone bathrooms, open beams, and parquet floors, as well as thoughtful updates like WiFi access, and LCD TVs. Rooms and common areas are decorated with Impressionist reproductions painted by the innkeeper. Otherwise, the décor is stark and modern. With only 13 rooms, this lovely design hotel fills up fast.

Capella Colleoni, Bergamo

Agnello d’Oro is a cute litte place very near Piazza Vecchia. The 20-room hotel overlooks a small piazza with a pretty fountain and some of the rooms on the front have balconies. If you don’t pop for a balcony, you can go up to the roof terrace for views of the harbor and lower town. The bathrooms have all been updated, and the rooms have mini bars and air conditioning. There’s a cozy restaurant on site, and several others within walking distance. This is not a luxury hotel, but the location is hard to beat and it has a lot of old-world charm. An added bonus for drivers is the parking garage.

Located in a former convent a short stroll from Bergamo’s main square, Hotel San Lorenzo opened in 1998. The building is encircled with a balcony and many of the rooms have French doors that open out onto it and overlook a tidy courtyard. There are views the other direction out over the valley. The nicely decorated rooms include amenities like satellite TV, mini bars, and hair dryers. Recent guests have complained about construction noise and dust at the property, so be advised that this could be a problem.

The best Bergamo hotels in the lower town.

Piazza Vecchia, Bergamo

Located in a restored palace that dates from 1879, The Mercure Bergamo Palazzo Dolci is the newest Bergamo hotel. Its 88 modern rooms have safety deposit boxes, satellite TV, and high-speed Internet access. The bar has a nice selection of Italian wines. It’s very convenient for those traveling by train or arriving by airplane. And several accessible rooms are available.

Hotel Cappello d’Oro is also close to the funicular and train station. As a member of the Best Western chain, it has lots of features Americans appreciate — among them a bar, a restaurant, a gym, 24-hour reception, outdoor parking, and Internet access. Rooms are large and comfortable. Service is generally friendly and professional, and the location is good for shopping and restaurants.

For more information about travel in Italy.
And to learn more about what there is to see and do in Lombardy

Bergamo Image Flickr: David Spender
Capella Colleoni Bergamo Image Flickr: amandabhslater
Piazza Vecchia Bergamo Image Flickr: edithbruck