Orvieto Duomo

Around 500 BC, the Etruscans discovered a plateau of volcanic tufa high above the valley and founded the town that would become Orvieto.  Today, it has one of the most spectacular settings in the region.

The top attraction in Orvieto is the Cathedral or Duomo.  Construction of the church began in 1288 and employed more than 350 architects, painters, sculptors, and mosaic artists.  It blends both the Gothic and Romanesque styles beautifully.

The highlight of the church is the façade which took 300 years to finish.  One of the original architects of the church, Maitani, carved the huge, fluted columns.  The detail of the sculptures is really impressive.  The modern bronze portals were completed in 1970 by Emilio Greco.

Inside, there’s a 14th century rose stained-glass window and two exquisite chapels — the Capella di San Brizio, which has Fra Angelico’s 15th-century frescoes of the Last Judgement.  These were recently restored at a cost of more than $4 million and they’re absolutely amazing.

The Capella del Corporale has a 14th-century silver shrine.  The reliquary is covered with precious stones, and the altar cloth of the Miracle of Bolsena is inside it.

The wine in Orvieto is terrific.  In fact, Luca Signorelli, who finished Fra Angelico’s frescoes, asked for partial payment in wine. So after you’re seen the church, have a glass of Orvieto Classico at one of the cafes on the Piazza del Duomo.

This area is also well known for its ceramics and on Saturdays, there’s a pottery market at Piazza del Popolo.

The church of San Giovenale was originally Orvieto’s cathderal.   It’s covered with 15th- and 16th-century frescoes, and there are beautiful views from the top.

The local archaeology museum has Etruscan artifacts.  If you’re interested in ancient history, you can take an underground tour of the wells and caverns that the Etruscans carved from the tufa beneath the city.

Orvieto hotels

Located in a 15th-century mansion in the heart of town, Hotel Filippeschi is a very short stroll from Piazza della Repubblica.  It’s close to many stylish shops and restaurants too.  There’s a bar and Internet access, and rooms have mini bars, safes, and satellite TV.  For the location, Filippeschi offers good value for money.

Also very near to the Cathedral, Hotel Duomo was purchased by Orvieto artist Livio Orazio Valentini in 2001 and completely restored.  Each of the 18 rooms is named for an artist and has a piece of furniture designed by Valentini, as well as a minibar and satellite TV.  The five floors are done in different colors.  And breakfast is included in the room rate.

Orvieto

Located in a beautifully restored 16th-century palazzo not far from the Duomo, Palazzo Piccolomini has 31 stylish rooms with LCD TVs, minibars, WiFi access, and modern furnishings.  Despite its central location, the hotel is very quiet, and it has a bar, and private parking.

About ten minutes drive from Orvieto, La Badia is located in a 12th-century abbey.  It’s been beautifully restored and there’s a swimming pool, tennis, and a good restaurant.  Public areas and some of the rooms have old wooden beams, vaulted ceilings, terra cotta tile floors, and tufa rock walls.  Larger rooms have lofts and suites have Jacuzzis.  If you’re looking for a hotel in the country, this is a very stylish choice, with professional service.

As the name suggests, Villa Ciconia is a villa built in the 16th century and surrounded by an 8-acre park.  It’s less than 2 miles from town.  It’s four-star all the way with a beautiful swimming pool and 12 nicely turned out rooms that tastefully combine old and new.

Read about other places in Italy here.

Orvieto Duomo Image Flickr: ho visto nina volare
Orvieto Image Flickr: Hyougushi

View from Lerici Castle

Liguria is one of the most enjoyable places in Italy for travelers. From glamorous Portofino to sleepy fishing villages, the province offers a wide range of experiences. And wherever you choose to go, you’ll likely have terrific food – pesto is a specialty here – and fabulous coastal views.

The area has long attracted poets and painters, including Shelley and Lord Byron. And thanks to the Rick Steves guidebooks, the five towns of the Cinque Terre were discovered by Americans decades ago.

But there are still coastal resorts where you’ll hardly hear any English spoken. And Lerici, across the Poets’ Gulf from Portovenere and La Spezia, is a real gem.

Dominated by the medieval Castello San Giorgio, Lerici is within easy striking distance of Tuscany. In fact, it’s little over an hour’s drive from Florence. And just 45 minutes from the airport in Pisa. So if you want some sea air and stunning scenery before returning home, plan to spend a few nights there.

With no train service, you’ll need to drive, and with limited parking, it’s a good idea to get there early in the day.

There’s a gorgeous ocean-front promenade, plenty of good hiking trails in the hills outside of town, and excellent beaches within walking distance. The harbor and adjoining piazza have lots of bars and cafes where you can enjoy la dolce vita. You can climb the castle for incredible views of Portovenere and the islands in the bay. And if you want to explore further afield, there’s ferry service to Portovenere and the Cinque Terre towns.

Lerici hotels and inns.

The top choice in town is the Hotel Locanda del Lido, which opened in 2006. The property is modern with hardwood floors, glass accents, and white décor. The round lobby is anchored by a small, indoor pool, and the water practically laps at the lobby. Its twelve, ocean-front rooms all have terraces with great views, flat-screen TVs, and minibars. There’s a roof-top solarium with plenty of loungers, and lots of ocean-front deck space. Doubles start at 210 euros.

The 53-room Hotel Doria Park is just a couple of minutes from the town center, but its location is the best in Lerici, and the views are tops. You can take breakfast or lunch on the ocean-view terrace surrounded by a pretty, Mediterranean garden. The suites here have balconies or patios and Jacuzzi tubs. Some of the suites even have private, outdoor spas with sweeping views. Beaches are nearby, and water sports are available. Those without a car can arrange shuttle service from trains stations in nearby towns.

Lerici at night

One of the newer hotels in the area, Hotel San Terenzo is in the town next to Lerici. All 14 soundproof rooms have WiFi, satellite TV and minibars. Nine rooms look over the bay; five look out at the new seaside promenade that leads to Lerici. The roof-top solarium is a great place to sun or relax with a glass of local wine. And there’s a beach with facilities adjacent to the hotel. Parking is available.

Located across the street from the beach, about ten minutes walk from Lerici, Hotel Florida has 40 modern rooms with all the expected amenities, water sports rentals, and a roof-top terrace with great views. Because the property has been run by the same family for 30 years, service is friendlier than most, and it’s very clean. Doubles start at 140 euros.

Best known for its excellent seafood restaurant, Locanda Miranda in Tellaro has six big rooms — many of which have terraces — a shared living room with a fireplace.

Find hotels in nearby Riomaggiore here.

View from Lerici Castle Image Flickr: pinkiwinkitinki
Lerici at night Image Flickr:spaceodissey

Volpetti in Rome

Rome is one of the world’s great food destinations. Whether you’re savoring a slice of pizza bianca at Campo de Fiori or enjoying a gelato on the Spanish Steps, eating great food is an integral part of Roman life.

In addition to world-class Italian restaurants, charming trattorias, and homey pizzerias, Rome also has wonderful food store, bakeries, and markets where you can sample incredilble meats, cheeses, sweets, produce, and more.

Here’s our list of the best places to pick up Italian food in Rome:

Ai Monasteri
Here, they sell products produced by monasteries and convents all over Italy. “Products from the beehive” are a specialty, but you’ll also find wines, cordials, teas, liqueurs, chocolates, candies, jams, oils, vinegars, beauty and health products. The shop was founded in 1894 and has been run by the same family for four generations.

Angelini
Not far from the Opera House, Angelini opened in 1880. It’s one of Rome’s best old-school wine shops, and you can have them pour you a jug of Castelli Romani wine right from the barrel. It’s one of the top three DOC wines from Lazio.

Buccone
This historic wine shop near the Piazza del Popolo has an incredible selection of vintages, Italian and imported beers, and epicurean products. They stock wines in all price ranges and the staff can help you find just the right bottle. With its old wooden beams, this cozy coach house is an atmospheric spot for lunch. And dinners are served on Friday and Saturday nights. If you request it a week in advance, you can have a wine tasting before your dinner.

Campo de Fiori
Rome’s best food market is a must-visit for foodies. During the day, the piazza is packed with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and flowers. At night, it’s the home of some of Rome’s most popular bars. Because it’s a popular tourist destination, prices are high. But you’ll come away with great photos. There are delis, wine, and cheese shops. If you’re hungry, grab a delicious slice of Pizza Bianca at Forno Campo de Fiori.

Castroni
You’ll find meats, cheese, oils, vinegars, herbs, coffee beans, and other delicacies from all the regions of Italy here, as well as food from around the globe. If you’re renting an apartment and trying to make a home-cooked meal, this is also the best place buy British, and American packaged foods. There’s a nice selection of organic products, and you can have coffee, sandwiches, or pastries at the bar.

Artichokes at Campo de Fiori

Mercato di Testaccio
Although Testaccio isn’t the best neighborhood in Rome, food lovers find the market here worth the extra effort. Covered stalls sell fruits and vegetables, meats, cheeses, seafoods, breads, and everything else you’ll need for a fabulous picnic or delicious dinner.

Moriondo e Gariglio
The finest chocolatier in Rome, Moriondo e Gariglio opened in 1850. The more than 80 kinds of confections they sell are made from fiercely guarded family recipes. The shop is lovely – and packed – around Easter and Christmas. Specialties include truffles, candied chestnuts (marrons glace), liqueur-filled chocolates, and confections made with nuts.

Panella
In the know tourists come here for the mortadella-stuffed pizza bianca, but there are also delicious breads of all kinds, regional Italian cheeses, preserves, and pastries. You can have your sweet with a coffee at the tiny bar inside.

Trimani Vinai a Roma dal 1821
No mystery about how long Trimani has been in business. In fact, it’s the oldest wine shop in Rome, and many would say the best. Stocking thousands of Italian, French, and sparkling wines, Trimani also hosts wine tastings and lectures.

Volpetti
Arguably the best food store in Rome, is located in the working-class Testaccio neighborhood. Volpetti has all kinds of salumi, including prosciutto, coppa, mortadella, speck, bresaola, salami, soppressata, guanciale, and pancetta. The list of Italian cheeses is equally impressive, and there’s a nice selection of French cheese too. Wines, prepared salads and pasta dishes, smoked fish, breads, pastries, chocolates, coffee, and vinegars make this your one-stop-shop for gourmet foods in Rome.

Read more about Italian foods here.

View Best Rome Food Stores in a larger map

1) Ai Monasteri
2) Angelini
3) Buccone
4) Campo de Fiori
5) Castroni
6) Enoteca al Parlamento
7) Mercato di Testaccio
8) Moriondo e Gariglio
9) Panella
10) Trimani
11) Volpetti

Volpetti in Rome Image Flickr: Meg Zimbeck
Artichokes at Campo de Fiori Image Flickr: Maggie Hoffman

Manarola

One of the five Cinque Terre villages, Manarola has some of the best hotels in the area. Few views are more breathtaking than the first glimpse of the town on the path from Corniglia. From here, the village is almost vertical with pastel houses piled on top of one another. Surrounded by black rock, the emerald bay beckons you to take a dip.

Winemaking, fishing, and producing olive oil are the order of the day here. And you’ll have plenty of opportunities to sample all three.

The harbor is the center of activity in Manarola, so it’s a fun place for people watching. And there are a couple of good swimming spots. One of the beaches — though there’s no sand — has a shower and a ladder from the rocks to the water. A second beach is accessible from the path to Corniglia. It’s more private, but there are no facilities.

In the town, the main square, Piazza Capellini, is a nice new addition. The local “museum” has a display about wine making in the region. The upper part of town has a church with a bell tower and two paintings from the 15th century. There’s also a youth hostel — the only one in the Cinque Terre.

The most rewarding activity in Manarola is a walk through the vineyards. If you follow the wood railing, you’ll go through lemon groves, rosemary, and valerian, and you’ll pass old stone walls and thatches. The cemetery at Punta Bonfiglio is an interesting side trip and the views from there are fantastic.

Nowadays, you can reach Manarola by train, boat, and car. If you drive, a shuttle will take you from the parking lot to the center of town.

Manarola hotels.

The top-rated and most stylish hotel in Manarola, La Torretta has 13 attractive rooms in an old building with a 17th-century tower. The family-run property has been extensively restored and all the rooms have views or terraces. Guests can catch some rays in the solarium. Unlike most Cinque Terra hotels, La Torretta is decorated in a clean, contemporary style with tile floors, leather chairs, and plasma TVs. This is the most expensive hotel in town, but it you’re looking for something special, this is it.

Manarola

Hotel Marina Piccola is a great choice for those who want to be right on the water. Rooms in the building with the restaurant have windows that open right onto the fishing boats and rocks, and the beach is practically right there. If this building is full, most of the rooms in the second building have views. With tile floors, and pastel colored walls, the accommodations here are better than most. And the seafood in the waterfront restaurant is as fresh as it gets.

Ca’ d’Andrean has 10 squeaky-clean rooms with tile floors and simple furnishings up the hill from the train station. There’s no air conditioning, but many of the rooms have balconies with nice views. Breakfast is served in the pretty lemon grove out front.

Carugiu Bed and Breakfast is located on a narrow street in the center of Manarola. It occupies two stories of an old, four-story buildings. Rooms have refrigerators, flat screen TVs, high-speed Internet access, and private baths.

Find Riomaggiore hotels here. And Vernazza hotels here.

Manarola Images Flickr: Victor Chapa

Galleria Alberto Sordi

Unlike Paris, where department stores were part of Baron Haussamans’s grand plan, Rome’s grandi maggazzi aren’t all that grandi.

They’re actually pretty small – the big stores are in the new shopping malls on the ring road that runs around Rome’s perimeter. But you can certainly find whatever you’re looking for in Rome’s department stores, and many are located near Via Condotti where luxury labels like Versace and Dolce & Gabbano are located.

Most stores are open seven days a week until 8 or 9 at night.

La Rinascente is Italy’s premier department store. It’s roots go back to 1865 when two brothers opened a men’s clothing store in Milan. The Rome store first opened in a turn-of-the-century palazzo on Via del Corso. But recently, it was purchased by the popular clothing store Zara and relocated to the neighboring Galleria Alberto Sordi.

If you’re looking for top International and Italian brands like 7 for all Mankind, Armani Collezione, Guess, Marc Jacobs, and Burberry, La Rinascente is the place. Their own label, Ellerre, is stylish and more affordable. The different departments here are arranged like individual boutiques, and the staff are well trained and informed. You’ll find a vast assortment of up-market cosmetics and perfume, men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions. The suburban Piazza Fiume branch has a beautiful housewares section.

Coin carries a little less status, but it’s less expensive, and you can still find all the latest fashions for everyone in the family. Brands like Calvin Klein, Guess, DKNY, Lacoste, and Esprit are best sellers. And they carry top-quality Italian housewares, and kid’s clothes. There’s a Milan-based hair salon, and a restaurant and bar on the fourth floor. The Piazzale Appio location is not far from the Vatican.

UPIM, which stands for Unico Prezzo Italiano Milano, first opened a store in Cremona in 1928. Today, UPIM is similar to H&M – they offer the latest styles for men, women, and children at affordable prices. You won’t find designer labels, but their private label is good, and the BLUKIDS line for children is especially popular with Italian families. They also sell attractive housewares at attractive prices. In January of 2010, La Rinascente sold them to Coin.

Oviesse is a popular chain with inexpensive clothes, cosmetics, and accessories. They’re similar to Target or Kohl‘s. Lately, they’ve rebranded themselves as OVS or OVS Industry and done more to target the youth market. Their Baby Angel boutique features clothes designed by Fiorucci. They also have a plus-size department.

Find more Rome shopping here.

1) La Rinascente
2) Coin
3) UPIM
4) Oviesse

View Rome department stores. in a larger map

Galleria Alberto Sordi Image Flickr: dawvon

Castello di Miramare, Trieste

Trieste is a beautiful city that’s as much Austrian as it is Italian. It practically straddles the border between Italy and Slovenia, and much of its history is tied to the Hapsburg Empire. You’re just as likely to find paprika in the dishes here as garlic.

It’s been an important port since Roman times, and a rival of nearby Venice for centuries. Today, you’ll find everything from medieval to modern buildings in Trieste. But most of the city’s signature architecture dates from the late 18th century when the Hapsburgs made Trieste a key seaport.

Over the years, Trieste has been home to many intellectuals, including Rainer Maria Rilke, Sigmund Freud, and James Joyce, who wrote A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man and part of Ulysses when he lived here.

Backed by cliffs leading up to the Karst Plateau, and with a beautiful Adriatic coastline, Trieste is as scenic as it is historic. You’ll find a vibrant culture in the turn-of-the-century coffee houses and bars.

Trieste attractions.

A few miles north of the city, Castello di Miramare is well worth a visit. Built by the Archduke Maximilian in the 1850s, the palace itself is all golf-leaf and crystal. But the surrounding gardens are the real reason to come. The seaside setting is really lovely and a pleasant place for a stroll. The palace is said to be unlucky – many of its most esteemed guests have met an untimely end. In July and August, there are sound and light shows here.

For terrific views of the city and Adriatic, walk the walls of Castello di San Giusto. It was begun in 1470 and took a century and a half to complete. Inside, there’s a museum with antiques, old weapons, and period rooms. But they pale compared to the vistas you’ll enjoy outside.

The church nearby is Cattedrale di San Guisto. Both the castle and the church are in the Parco della Rimembranza on the Capitoline Hill. There are several Roman ruins in the area, and the 14th-century campanile of the cathedral was built on the remains of a 1st-century temple. Two Romanesque basilicas were joined by a central nave and there are mosaics from the 13th century. But they don’t compare to those in Ravenna.

Trieste hotels.

Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia clock tower in Trieste

The best hotel in Trieste is the four-star Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta, which is located on the sea-front Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia. The hotel’s restaurant, Harry’s Grill, has tables right on the square. Housed in an old neoclassical building, it has lots of old-world ambience and charm. There’s a modern spa, an indoor heated pool, and a Turkish bath. The 55 rooms have big LCD TVs, WiFi Internet access, safes, and big marble bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs. If you don’t stay here, come to Harry’s for a Duchi cocktail.

With views of the Gulf from the public areas and many of the rooms, the Savoia Excelsior Palace is another good choice. It recently underwent an extensive renovation. Crowned by a beautiful skylight, the Belle Epoque-style lounge is a lovely spot for a drink. The 142 classically furnished rooms have wenge wood accents, fine fabrics, and feather beds – the nicest have balconies overlooking the sea. The location is close to shops and restaurants.

In a pretty neighborhood close to Castello di Miramare, the four-star Hotel Miramare is a contemporary property close to the beach and national park. It’s a good base for those who want to enjoy the outdoors. You can dine in the popular Le Vele restaurant or on the plant-filled terrace of La Nave Café. Both have wonderful ocean views, as do the 32 rooms. Some have terraces.

Housed in an old ropemaker’s workshop, Hotel Le Corderie is a 15-room boutique hotel built in 2008. The clean, modern design is a pleasant change. And guests can help themselves to a drink in the honesty lounge and then enjoy it in the garden. Rooms have WiFi access, mini bars, and writing desks. A breakfast buffet is served in the dining room each morning.

The Hotel James Joyce was built in 1770 in the old part of Trieste, and it’s a real charmer. If you’d like to stay in one of the nine double rooms, you’ll need to make reservations well in advance. There’s WiFi in the public areas, and the rooms, which were renovated in 2003, have satellite TV, safes, and mini bars. Breakfast is included in the rate, and there are lots of restaurants within walking distance.

One of the most affordable hotels in Trieste, L’Albero Nascasto Hotel Residence has a lot going for it. Bordered on one side by the city’s 15th-century walls, it’s in an 18th-century building that was recently restored. The ten rooms are furnished with antiques and have kitchenettes and satellite TV, but no phones. The location is convenient to everything.

In the same neighborhood as Miramare, Riviera & Maximilian’s first opened in 1910. It has a private beach — although it’s not sandy – two outdoor swimming pools, and a restaurant with a pretty terrace. In summer, there’s a buffet at the beach and you can rent water sports equipment for fun in the sun. Rooms are divided between two buildings, an older one with parquet floors and carved furniture, and a newer wing with balconies and terraces. There are also 12 apartments available on a weekly basis.

1) Castello di Miramare
2) Castello di San Giusto
3) Cattedrale di San Giusto
4) Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta
5) Starhotels Savoia Excelsior Palace
6) Hotel Miramare
7) Hotel Le Corderie
8) Hotel James Joyce
9) Hotel Albero Nascosta
10) Riviera & Maximilian

View Trieste hotels in a larger map

Castello di Miramare, Trieste Image Flickr: TravelEden
Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia clock tower in Trieste Image Flickr: Chiara Marra

Porta Portese market

Known as mercato delle pulci, Rome’s flea markets have their roots in ancient times. They’re a great way to experience an authentic slice of Roman life. And you’ll often find a one-of-a-kind item that becomes a treasured souvenir or a thoughtful gift.

Most visitors to Rome who enjoy flea markets and antique shops know about the Porta Portese market. With 4,000 vendors, it’s one of the biggest flea markets in Europe. And it offers an astonishing array of goods – everything from plastic shoes to 16th-century religious icons.

On our last visit, it was absolutely packed — and sweltering. The junk-to-quality ratio was at least 20-to-one. And we got tired of watching out for pickpockets. To us, Porta Portese is more hassle than it’s worth.

The good news is that there are dozens of Rome flea markets that are less crowded, more accessible, and more fun. Many flea markets only operate between October and June, closing for the hot summer months. Others are open year ‘round.

There’s a nice selection of specialty markets for collectors of old books, prints, antiques, jewelry, and art objects. If you’re in town on a Sunday, there’s probably a flea market somewhere in Rome with your name on it.

Here are some of the best flea markets in Rome:

Mercatino dei Partigiani is held in a parking lot the first Sunday of every month except August. If you’re a bargain hunter, you’ll appreciate the prices here. There’s usually some furniture, WWII collectibles, vintage items, dishes, silver, and an assortment of knick knacks.

Located in Parking Ludovisi not far from the Piazza del Popolo and Via Veneto, Underground is a relative newcomer. On the first Sunday of the month, it has something for everyone – jewelry, old prints and books, cameras, binocular, religious items, and old suitcases.

Ponte Milvio takes place on the first weekend of the month on the banks of the Tiber. It runs all the way to the Ponte Duc d’Aosta. Look for small antiques and collectibles, jewelry, linens, books, old lace, and art.

Porta Portese trinkets

Borghetto Flaminio is open on the second Saturday and Sunday of each month. It’s located in a couple of warehouses near the Piazza del Popolo gates. For a modest entrance fee, you can explore nearly 250 vendors selling vintage clothing, costume and antique jewelry, handbags, linens, antique objects, and silver.

Also on the second Sunday of the month, nearly one hundred vendors gather in front of Villa Gloria to see a little bit of everything from slightly used designer fashions and sportwear, antiques, old typewriters, bicycles, and books.

Located in a tree-lined piazza not far from the Tiber in the Prati district, Piazza Mazzini offers more pleasant surroundings than some of Rome’s markets. They usually have around 80 vendors, and they’re open the second Friday, Saturday, and Sunday of the month except in August.

Via Sannio is your best bet if you’re only in town during the week. It’s open Monday through Saturday and located under the Aurelian walls. There’s no telling what you’ll find here. But clothes for almost any occasion, Army surplus items, camping gear, and shoes are always on hand.

Collectors interested in books, etchings, engravings, comics, and magazines should visit Mercato delle Stampe which is not far from Piazza Navona. It’s open Monday through Saturday mornings.

On the first and third Sundays, Soffito Sotto i Portici takes place in Piazza Augusto Imperatore, not far from the Spanish Steps. Lots of cool, old objects here, including pocket watches, cameras, jewelry, candlesticks, picture frames, and toys.

Held the fourth Sunday of the month on a square in stylish Parioli, Piazza Verdi has all kinds of vintage items and antiques. Look for fine china and glassware, jewelry, silver, crafts, rare books, musical instruments, and linens.

If you want to visit Porta Portese, go early – it opens every Sunday at dawn – enter from Piazza Ippolito Nievo, and keep a close watch on your purse or wallet. Bargain hard, but don’t expect great deals even if you do.

Read about flea markets in Southern California here.

1) Mercatino dei Partigiani
2) Underground
3) Ponte Milvio
4) Borghetto Flaminio
5) Villa Gloria
6) Piazza Mazzini
7) Via Sannio
8) Mercatio della Stampe
9) Soffito Sotto I Portici
10) Piazza Verdi
11) Porta Portese

View Rome’s best flea markets in a larger map

Porta Portese market and Porta Portese trinkets Image Flickr: krynn1978

Riomaggiore

If you’re coming from La Spezia or Portovenere, Riomaggiore is the first town you’ll reach in the Cinque Terra. Part of the Cinque Terra National Park – which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site – Riomaggiore is picture-postcard pretty with pastel-colored houses clinging to terraced clifftops and an aquamarine harbor.

It’s best known for the Via dell’Amore or Lover’s Path, a coastal walk with unforgettable views of the sea.

Since Riomaggiore is easily reached by train, ferry, and car, it’s not really off the beaten path anymore. And unlike some of the other Cinque Terre villages, there are a couple of real hotels here with amenities like Internet access, satellite TV, and mini bars.

A few of the Riomaggiore hotels are new construction. Others occupy old buildings that have been modernized and updated. The best have balconies or terraces overlooking the sea.

If you drive, there’s a parking lot above the town. You can catch the shuttle down, or take the elevator.

Other than hiking the beautiful trails, there’s not a lot to do in Riomaggiore. There’s a rocky little beach a few minutes from the harbor. The slabs of marble and alabaster there are good spots for sunbathers. A path from the beach takes you to the Torre Guardiola, the local castle, which is worth visiting for the views.

You can see the Cinque Terre from the other side by renting a kayak from Mar Mar or taking a tour aboard one of the charter boats in the harbor.

Via Columbo is the main drag and you’ll find a market, a pharmacy, a bakery, a bar, and an art gallery there. There are also several cafes with outdoor terraces near the harbor. La Laterna, in the marina, is one of the best for fresh seafood.

Riomaggiore hotels.

Locanda Ca dei Duxi has 16 rooms in a building that dates from the 18th century and in an annex across the street that opened in 2001. Rooms in the older part have more character with exposed beams, tile floors, and views of the castle. All have Internet access, mini bars, satellite TV, and direct-dial telephones. There are also three apartments with kitchenettes and terraces. Because these sleep up to seven, they’re a good choice for families. Dei Duxi is a five-minute walk from the train station or the beach.

Several of the 15 rooms at Villa Argentina have some of the best views in town from their balconies. It’s about a five-minute uphill hike from town. And if your room doesn’t have a balcony, you can enjoy the vistas from the pretty terrace. The bar off the lobby is a pleasant spot for a drink, and rooms have TVs and small safes. If you don’t feel like walking to dinner, room service is available. And you can also rent watersports equipment for a day at the beach.

La Baia di Rio has five rooms in the old family home of the Benacis, and staying here helps support the Val di Serra dei Benaci Vineyard. The property overlooks the village and the sea, and the terraces here have absolutely breathtaking views. The Marco Polo Suite has a fully furnished terrace, a refrigerator, and the use of a kitchen. James Cook has the same features, with kitchen facilities on request. Christopher Columbus is a triple with two large windows with ocean views. Amerigo Vespucci is a double. And Abel Tasman is a double with a furnished terrace. Parking is available on request. La Baia di Rio is very popular, so make reservations here well in advance.

Riomaggiore at dusk

Hotel La Zorza has nine rooms in a 17th-century building that combines modern amenities like satellite TV and mini fridges with beamed ceilings and stone walls. Breakfast is served in a pretty area that has Internet access, and there’s a bar where you can enjoy a glass of wine before dinner.

Cinque Terra Residence Locanda offers accommodations in several little, adjoining houses with separate entrances. All have private bathrooms and many have kitchenettes. The terrace is surrounded by vineyards and lemon trees.

Housed in a building that was once the meeting place of the Holy Virgins Brotherhood and then the local cinema, La Locanda della Compagnia has five modern rooms with air conditioning and satellite TV. It’s beneath Riomaggiore’s parking lot, about a five-minute walk from the beach.

Locanda del Sole is a new complex with ten double rooms that have private baths, mini bars, and satellite TV. It’s built on several levels in the terraced style that’s typical in Riomaggiore. The furnished terrace is a great place to enjoy breakfast or just relax. And there’s a spacious parking lot, making it extremely convenient for drivers.

Find more Cinque Terra and Vernazza hotels here.

Riomaggiore Image Flickr: IanPhilipMiller
Riomaggiore at dusk Image Flickr: PjotrP

Seaside Promenade, Livorno

If you’ve been to Livorno, chances are you were on a Mediterranean cruise bound for Florence. If you saw Livorno at all, it was from the window of a tour bus. Which is a shame, because Livorno is worth your time.

Known as the Etruscan Coast, this part of Tuscany borders the sea. After spending time inland, being on the Mediterranean offers a complete change of scene. The restaurants here serve the best seafood in Tuscany. You can cruise the 17th-century canals from one old fortress to another. And there’s a beautiful water-front promenade with views of the Tuscan archipelago.

Medici architect Bernardo Buonatlenti designed the city in 1567 around a central piazza and encircled it with the Fossio Reale canal.

Several of the Livorno hotels are right on the beach, others are near Livorno’s lively piazzas, shops, and restaurants.

The NH Grand Palazzo is in an elegant 19th-century palace that’s fronted by the gorgeous Terrazza Mascagni promenade. From the roof garden with swimming pool and solarium to the Presidential Suite with Turkish bath, everything here is five-star deluxe. The palace has been exquisitely restored, and the ocean views go on forever. The 123 rooms and suites have minibars, Internet access, flat-screen TVs, and modern, marble bathrooms. There’s a spa, sauna, fitness center, and a dreamy grotto pool in the basement. The restaurant is lovely, and service is professional. This is a beautiful hotel in an unbeatable location.

If you want access to a beach, Hotel Rex is located about four miles south of Livorno in the village of Antignano. There are three restaurants here, most with great views of the sea — the panorama from the terrace is terrific. There are 61 rooms with mini bars, safes, and Internet access. The best have balconies. The beach club has umbrellas, lounge chairs, and a café for snacks.

In the heart of town near Goldoni’s Theater, Al Teatro has eight lovely rooms in a building that dates from the 19th century. Each of the rooms is dedicated to a composer or musician, and decorated with vintage prints and paintings, and period furnishings. The property has won an award from Touring Club. There’s a pretty garden where you can have breakfast or a glass of wine. Service is cordial and helpful. This is one of the most romantic hotels in Livorno.

Livorno Canals

Overlooking the harbor and the Piazza dei Quattro Mori, Hotel Gran Duca is conveniently located close to all the Livorno attractions. It was renovated recently, and now it’s modern and elegant. The hotel‘s restaurant fronts the piazza and serves fresh seafood. With a fitness center, indoor swimming pool, Turkish bath, and massage room, it’s a good choice for those who want to stay fit. The 63 rooms have mini bars, wireless Internet access and interactive LCD TVs. Some have small terraces facing the harbor.

The contemporary Max Hotel Livorno is the best choice for business travelers. It’s close to the train station and sports complex. The Max Lounge has WiFi Internet access, computers, and printers, and there’s a big-screen plasma TV for sporting events. A fitness center and Turkish bath are available. And there’s a good seafood restaurant. Rooms have mini bars, satellite TV, and modem ports. If you like a stylish, modern hotel, you’ll enjoy Hotel Max.

Housed in an 18th-century villa a few miles from Livorno in Montenero, the Hotel La Vedetta di Montenero has 31 charming rooms with features like tile floors and exposed beams. Byron and Shelley both lived in Montenero for a time. Although the hotel is inland, there are beautiful views of the sea from the upstairs rooms and from the terrace. Other rooms overlook the woods surrounding the hotel. The restaurant is open from May through September.

Find more things to see and do in Livorno here.

1) NH Grand Hotel Palazzo
2) Hotel Rex
3) Al Teatro
4) Hotel Gran Duca
5) Max Hotel Livorno
6) Hotel La Vedetta di Montenero

View Livorno Hotels in a larger map

Seaside Promenade, Livorno Image Flickr: Eric Perrone
Livorno Canals Image Flickr: alexbarrow

Giardino Giusti, Verona

Verona, Italy is best known as the setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and Two Gentlemen of Verona. But it also has some of the best preserved Roman architecture outside of Rome and some beautiful medieval palaces. In fact, many of the best Verona hotels are located in renovated palazzos.

All in all, Verona is a delightful place to visit.

The center of town is Piazza Bra, which is dominated by the biggest attraction in town, literally and figuratively. It’s the Roman Arena, which was built in 30 AD. Seating more than 25,000 spectators, it was the third largest stadium in the Roman Empire. During the summers, operas and concerts are performed here.

Climb all 44 tiers to the top for great views and photographs.

There are several squares in Verona worth exploring. Piazza delle Erbe is lined with stately civic buildings and opulent palaces. This piazza, which hosts a daily market, was built on the site of the old Roman forum. Piazza dei Signori has several impressive buildings, including the Palazzo del Capitano and the Palazzo della Ragione. There are also several cafes here where you can take a break from sightseeing.

For more great views, climb the 275-ft Torre di Lamberti, which dates from the 12th century. On clear days, you can see all the way to Lake Garda and the Alps.

San Zeno Maggiore on Piazza San Zeno is one on the best examples of Romanesque architecture in northern Italy. The 12th-century rose window and wooden doors with bronze reliefs are worth stopping by to see. Inside, there’s an altarpiece by Mantegna.

The 14th-century castle on the Adige river has a fine arts museum with medieval and Renaissance paintings by Bellini, Veronese, and Tiepolo. And the ruins of the old Roman Theater are not far away.

Giardino Giusto is a must for garden lovers. It’s one of Italy’s best Renaissance gardens. With fountains, grottoes, and topiary, it’s a delightful spot.

Ponte di Pietra, Verona

Just a block from Piazza Bra, Torcolo offers quiet, nicely decorated lodging and good value for money. Each of the 19 rooms is unique, but all have small refrigerators, safes, double-paned windows, and WiFi Internet access. Many have parquet floors and exposed beams. The two women who run the hotel are very cordial, and breakfast is very good – when the weather’s nice, you can take it on the pretty patio.

Also near the Arena, Colomba d’Oro was once a medieval convent. The owners have kept a lot of Old World charm, including trompe l’oeil frescoes in the reception hall. The breakfast room and bar are very atmospheric with stone walls and arches dating from the 16th century. The 51 rooms are comfortable and nicely furnished with beautiful fabrics. There are several restaurants nearby.

Located in an 18th-century palazzo off Piazza delle Erbe, Gabbia d’Oro has oodles of charm. With stone walls, Persian rugs, fine paintings, rustic timbers, and original frescoes, it has a timeless and elegant ambience. The roof terrace and Orangerie garden are delightful. And the rooms have antiques, and modern bathrooms. This is one of the most appealing hotels in Verona. You can rent a bike to explore the area.

Part of the Baglioni chain, the Due Torri Hotel is Verona’s most expensive hotel. The 14th-century palazzo opened as a hotel in the 1950s, and over the years, it’s been the choice of artists performing at the summer festivals here. The 90 rooms and public areas are quite grand with columns, period furniture, and Murano glass chandeliers. Free WiFi access and satellite television are included. Some rooms on the upper floors have nice views, as does the roof terrace. There’s an attractive Art Nouveau restaurant and bar.

A mere stone’s throw from the Roman Arena, Hotel Giulietta e Romeo, offers comfortable, attractive lodging in a charming old palazzo. The 30 rooms have thoughtful amenities like mini bars and safes, plus big, marble bathrooms. Service here is warm and professional, and the location is convenient to everything.

In business since 1880. Hotel Accademia has 94 rooms near San Maria della Scala church. The location is close to the main shopping street, and there’s a good restaurant on site. Rooms in the 16th-century palazzo have been updated with wireless Internet access, LCD TVs, and electronic safes.

Find hotels in nearby Lake Garda here.

1) Piazza Bra
2) Arena di Verona
3) Guardino Giusti
4) Torcolo Hotel
5) Hotel Columba d’Oro
6) Hotel Gabbia d’Oro
7) Due Torre Hotel Baglioni
8) Hotel Giuliette E Romeo
9) Hotel Accademia

View Hotels in Verona in a larger map

Giardino Giusti, Verona Image Flickr: Thomas Frejek

Ponte di Pietra, Verona Image Flickr: *Debs*

Vernazza at dusk

With castle ruins high above the sea, a pretty natural harbor, and a seaside piazza lined with cafes and bars, Vernazza is the most picturesque of the Cinque Terre villages. Unlike some of the others, you can get here by car — there’s a parking lot above the town. From there, you can take a shuttle bus down to the main street.

The narrow alleys, charming arcades, and colorful, slate-roofed houses make Vernazza a place to linger, even though there’s not much to do. The Ligurian pastel hues here are regulated by the local zoning board.

The Tourist Office is in the train station. And there’s Internet access at the Blue Marlin Bar and at the Internet Point. The small stone church with the iron grillwork is the Chapel of Santa Marta. Take the trail from the church for some spectacular views. Or take Trail No. 2 five minutes in either direction — toward Corniglia in the morning or toward Monterossa al Mare at dusk.

On Tuesday mornings, there’s a morning market. You can rent kayaks at the harbor for a tour of the coast. Or hike up to see the castle ruins. Other than that, most visitors relax on the rocky beach or in the cafes and watch the boats bob in the harbor.

There aren’t many Vernazza hotels. Most of the places to stay here are pensions or private rooms called affitta camere. Virtually all Vernazza accommodations have lots of stairs, so if you have difficulty with them, you’ll be happier somewhere else.

Don’t expect lots of services or facilities. Clean, simply furnished rooms are the order of the day here. The one thing you do want is a view. So request a room with an ocean-view terrace or balcony. Barring that, make sure that wherever you stay has a terrace or garden for guests’ use. Most Vernazza hotels don’t have restaurants, but the nearest trattoria is never far away.

Although Vernazza hotels are less expensive than most Italian coastal resorts, the days of the $25 pension are long gone.

La Mala is the most stylish hotel in Vernazza, and its four rooms book well in advance. This is the only place in town with flat-screen TVs with satellite service and mini bars. The décor is striking and tasteful with exposed beams and stone walls. The four rooms share a magnificent stone terrace overlooking the sea. Rooms 31 and 19 have views of the sea. Rates here are from 150 – 200 euros.

Located right on Piazza Marconi, Albergo Barbara occupies the top two floors of an old house. The views of the harbor from the two doubles on the main floor are some of the best in town. There are nine rooms, some with shared and some with private baths. Rooms are simple with tile floors, and those without private baths have a sink. Doubles start at 60 euros a night.

Vernazza

One of the better restaurants in town, Trattoria Gianni Franzi also has 23 rooms in two buildings. Not all the rooms in the older building have private bathrooms. But they compensate with tiny balconies with sensational views. Rooms in the newer building don’t have views but there’s a nice terrace garden for guests. The rate here includes a full breakfast.

Affitta Camere Elizabetta, also known as Elisabette Carro has two wonderful terraces with 360-degree views, tables, and deck chairs. There are a total of four rooms. All have private baths, and all but one have balconies. There are two suites with queen bedrooms on the ground and first floor. The ground-floor unit has a kitchen without a stove.

Giuliano Basso built his Camere himself from the local stone. The four rooms here are above a ravine of orange trees. There’s a splendid stone terrace, and a common area with refrigerator, dishes, and towels. The family room sleeps four.

Find more Italy hotels here.

1) La Mala
2) Albergo Barbara
3) Gianni Franzi
4) Affitta Camere Elisabetta
5) Giuliano Basso Camere

View Vernazza Hotels in a larger map

Vernazza at Dusk Image Flickr: rayced
Vernazza Image Flickr: Allie_Caulfield

Florence

Tuscany is rightly noted for its delicious food and wine. Unlike some Italian foods, Tuscan cuisine showcases local ingredients like asparagus, white truffles, herbs, wild boar, rabbit, and Italian’s best beef without a lot of fuss. Tuscan food is simple, satisfying, and easy to prepare.

You’ll likely eat well in the region without much effort. But you can enhance your appreciation of Tuscan food by taking a couple of cooking classes. There are several to choose from in and around Florence. And you can sign up for a half-day, full-day, or week-long program.

Taste Florence offers a walking tour that isn’t a cooking classes per se, but it is a pleasant way for someone interested in the region’s food to learn more about it. Participants visit local food producers where they taste cheese, vinegars, cured meats, olive oils, wine, and more.

The Culinary Institute of Florence, which is part of the Apicius International School of Hospitality, offers everything from a Masters Degree in Italian Cooking to one-day cooking classes. If you’re going to be in Tuscany for a while, consider a three-week course that meets once a week. Or sign up for a one-week program that includes a group and individual wine-tasting class, two group cooking class, two individual classes, and a walking tour.

Food expert and cookbook author Silvia Maccari takes small groups to the San Lorenzo market for a tour and tasting and then brings them back to her apartment to prepare a four-course meal. After the cooking is done, guests sit down to enjoy the meal with wines chosen by Silvia to complement the dishes.

World-renowned Italian cook Guiliano Bugialli founded Cooking in Florence in 1973. It was the first Italian cooking school to offer classes in English. Classes are taught in Bugialli’s 15th-century farmhouse outside Florence. The week-long course includes five cooking classes, dinners in area restaurants, accommodations in Florence, and regional side trips. Students learn to prepare about 35 different dishes.

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Located in the heart of Florence, the Scuola di Arte Caulinaria Cordon Bleu was founded in 1985. They offer everything from 3-month professional programs to one-day classes on chocolate, fritters, and pasta.

Judy Francini moved from California to Italy in the 1980s and started Divina Cucina, which offer one-day and one-week cooking classes in Florence. The classes start selecting ingredients at the San Lorenzo market. Her Mondays at the Market includes a market tour, tastings, and lunch in a trattoria. She also offers a Wednesday class at her friend’s villa in the Tuscan countryside.

Chef Claudio Piantini teaches Tuscan cooking classes at Relais Torres Guelfa in the town of Figline Valdarno, outside Florence. Students will tour the chef’s extensive gardens and select fruits and vegetable for the day’s meal. Dinner is served in the dining room or on the terrace by the pool.

Find cooking classes in Rome here.

Florence Image Flickr: echiner1
Bistecca alla Fiorentina Image Flickr: thepinkpeppercorn

Roman Sunset

To us, the best view of Rome is from a rooftop terrace at sunset. Like so many aspects of good living, Romans have perfected the concept. And there are more than a dozen fabulous roof bars in Rome where you can sip wine and enjoy the breathtaking scenery as the city slips into darkness.

If you’re visiting Rome during spring or summer, stay at a hotel with a top-side patio, or at the very least, have a drink at one of the roof bars listed below. It won’t be cheap, but it will likely become a very special memory of your visit.

Here’s our list of the best roof bars in Rome. Since they’re scattered all over town, each has a unique view. So why not visit a different one every night?

Not far from Piazza Navona, the bar and restaurant at the Hotel Raphael looks across at the dome of Santa Maria della Pace. If you lean over, you can see the cloister designed by Bramante, which dates from 1500. The angel on top of Castel Sant’Angelo and the twin horsemen from Piazza Venezia are visible in the distance. Although this is one of the best views in town, few tourists make their way here. To reach the roof, take the elevator to the top floor and then climb a couple flights of steps. With all the hedges and shrubs, this multi-level terrace truly is a roof garden. An absolutely magical place.

Located on Pizza della Repubblica, Hotel Exedra overlooks the piazza’s fountains, Diocletian’s Baths and Michelangelo’s Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli. What’s really special here is the roof-top swimming pool. Non-guests can take a dip for a fee, and then enjoy a cocktail at Sensus, the rooftop bar. The reflections on the pool at night make the ambience even more romantic. If you choose not to eat here, there are several excellent restaurants in the neighborhood.

Terrace at the Hotel Eden

Across from the Villa Borghese and Borghese Gardens, the Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese is in the old Ludovisi-Boncompagni family palazzo. There really are no better views in Rome than from the La Bellvista restaurant on the 7th floor of the hotel. And it’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. So if you can’t make it for sunset, come for a meal. Groups of tables and chairs are separated by small topiaries and the views extend all the way from St. Peter’s to the hills beyond the villa. Happy hour on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 6PM to 9PM includes antipasto. If you can afford it, three of the suites here have private terraces.

With St. Peter’s in the distance, Piazza Venezia to the left, and the towers of Trinita del Monti right below you, La Terraza at the Hotel Eden serves up a view that’s been enjoyed by countless celebrities and international movers and shakers. The restaurant here has one Michelin star, but you can come for a drink, it you prefer. For a sneak peak, check out their web cam at http://www.hoteledenview.com.

The Pantheon is our favorite building in Rome, and you haven’t seen the dome until you’ve seen it from eye level. You can do just that from the roof bar at the historic Grand Hotel de la Minerve. It’s located on Piazza della Minerva, which is where you’ll find the Bernini sculpture of the elephant and the obelisk. You can dine in the La Cesta restaurant or have drinks at Le Cupole. Located in a 17th-century palace, the Minerva is a short stroll from Piazza Navona or the Trevi Fountain.

View from the Eden terrace

For the best views of St. Peter’s and the Vatican, head to Hotel Atlante Star. The 360-degree, uninterrupted view includes the Basilica, Castel Sant’Angelo, the Tiber River, and the rooftops of Rome. It’s especially dramatic after dark when St. Peter’s dome is illuminated. Le Etoile restaurant serves lunch and dinner. And La Terraza Paradiso serves drinks and appetizers at pretty wrought-iron tables surrounded by flower boxes.

Offering a sweeping panorama that takes in most of Imperial Rome — including the Colisseum, the Imperial Forum, and the Domus Aurea — Hotel Gladiatori Palazzo Manfredi is a good choice after dark when the monuments are all lit. You can dine in the restaurant by candlelight, or have drinks and appetizers in the American Bar. Sipping cocktails with the Colisseum as a backdrop is a real pinch-me moment. If the terrace looks familiar, it’s a popular location for TV and movie shoots.

The newcomer to the party is Zest Bar in the Radisson Blu Es Hotel. The location near Termini station isn’t our favorite, and the view isn’t the best. But it has a modern, South Beach vibe that’s missing from the others. The rooftop pool ups the cool ante, and there are always model types enjoying – and making – the scene.

Read about the best restaurants in Rome here.

1) Hotel Raphael
2) Hotel Exedra
3) Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese
4) Hotel Eden
5) Grand Hotel de la Minerve
6) Hotel Atlante Star
7) Hotel Gladiatori Palazzo Manfredi
8) Zest
View Rome’s best roof bars in a larger map

Roman Sunset Image Flickr: Daveness_98
Terrace at the Hotel Eden Image and View from the Eden terrace Image Flickr: Wolfiewolf

Zucchini blossoms

The best way to experience Roman cooking, aside from eating in all those fabulous Italian restaurants, is to do it yourself at one of Rome’s lively cooking classes. Not only will you learn to make Italian foods like fried zucchini blossoms, risotto, and panna cotta, you’ll also make new friends and have a terrific meal.

From a half-day cooking class to a week-long culinary program, there are plenty of options to choose from. And many include field trips to local food purveyors.

Diane Seed has written several best-selling Italian cookbooks, including The Top 100 Pasta Sauces and Roman Kitchen. Although British, she has lived in Rome for 30 years on the top floor of a Renaissance Palazzo overlooking the Forum.

She knows Rome and Italian cooking inside out, and her students rave about her delightful insights into Roman culture.

Tomatoes at Campo dei Fiori market

Her morning classes include a visit to the Campo de Fiori market and lunch prepared by the students. Her five-day courses run from 10:30AM to 2PM on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, and from 6:30PM to 9:30PM on Wednesday. Two- and three-day classes can sometimes be arranged. Details are available at http://www.italiangourmet.com/index2.php?cPath=21

Torre di Babelle is a language school that also offers cooking classes in Rome. Students in their three-hour course prepare an aperitif, appetizer, first course (usually a pasta), second course, vegetable, and dessert. Get more information at http://www.torredibabele.com/cooking.htm.

Chef Andrea Consoli teaches 3-4 hour classes at La Fate restaurant in the Trastevere neighborhood. Students prepare a four-course meal in the kitchen of the restaurant and then enjoy it together. Andrea is a real charmer, and at just 50 Euros per person, his classes are a real bargain.

Tagliatelle Carbonara

The day begins with a trip to the market in the Testaccio quarter and a visit to the Volpetti shop. There’s no menu planned for the class — students just pick up whatever looks best at the market and then take the bus back to Maureen’s place, where they prepare lunch together. Contact her at info@maureenbfant.com.

Those who don’t want to cook but want to learn more about dining in Rome can take one of her Eat Like the Romans Eat offered by Context. Find out more at http://www.contexttravel.com/rome/tours/cuisine/

Find more things to do in Rome here.

Zucchini blossoms Image Flickr: ljcybergal
Tomatoes at Campo dei Fiori market Image Flickr: hslo
Tagliatelle Carbonara Image Flickr: FotoosVanRobin

Treviso Italy

Just 20 miles north of Venice, Treviso is a delightful town which has retained much of its medieval charm. Like its famous neighbor to the south, Treviso is laced together with a series of pretty canals and medieval arcades. But unlike in Venice, Treviso hotels are off the tourist trail.

Although Treviso was damaged during World War II, what was left was preserved, what could be rebuilt was sensitively restored, and new construction was designed not to overwhelm the existing buildings. Many of the original frescoes have been preserved, and today, there are stylish boutiques on every corner.

Piazza dei Signori is the heart of Treviso’s old town is still the place to see and be seen. On the square, there’s a 13th-century council hall and an old Palazzo with a clock tower. There are two medieval churches worth visiting on the next square, Piazza San Vito. Santa Lucia has frescoes by Tomaso da Modena and San Vito has Byzantine frescoes dating from the 12th or 13th century.

Treviso’s 12th-century Duomo has the distinction of having seven domes. The chapel has an Annunication by Titian and frescoes by lesser known artists. The crypt is filled with old columns, and 14th-century mosaic and fresco fragments.

More impressive is San Nicolo, a 13th to 14th-century Dominican church with columns painted by Tomaso da Modena, a fresco by Lorenzo Lotto, and other frescoes from the Sienese School.

The local museum – the Museo Bailo – has a good collection of ancient bronze relics and minor paintings by major artists.

Treviso hotels and inns.

There aren’t many good hotels in Treviso, so it’s a good idea to make reservations well in advance if you’re coming during high season.

With just 14 rooms, Albergo il Focolare is one of the coziest Treviso hotels. Located on a side street in the center of Treviso’s old town, it’s convenient to everything. Several of the rooms overlook the nearby canals, and though they vary in size, they’re all pleasantly furnished.

Hotel Carlton offers more services to its guests that most of the other hotels in Treviso. The 93 rooms have plasma TVs and WiFi Internet access, and guests of the hotel have reduced admission at a local fitness club, spa, and golf course.

Close to the train and bus stations, the Hotel Continental is about a 10-minute walk from the main square. Its 80 rooms have been updated and many have parquet floors, Murano glass chandeliers, and carved wood moldings. There’s a bar in the hotel and there are several restaurants nearby.

Hotel Ca’ del Galletto is probably the quietest Treviso hotel. It’s located in a residential neighborhood about 15 minutes from the old town. If you don’t want to walk into town, they’ll loan you a bike. When you’re through exploring the sights of Treviso, you can relax by the outdoor swimming pool. There’s a restaurant in the hotel serving Veneto specialties and seafood. And a breakfast buffet is included in the room rate.

1) Piazza dei Signori
2) Piazza San Vito
3) Duomo
4) San Nicolo
5) Museo Bailo
6) Albergo Il Focolare
7) Carlton Hotel
8) Continental Hotel
9) Ca’ Del Galletto

View Treviso hotels and attractions. in a larger map

Find hotels and attractions in Ravenna here.

Treviso Italy image Flickr: cocoate.com

Short Rib Pasta

The North Beach neighborhood was once the home of most of the city’s Italian restaurants. But these days, you’ll find them in every part of town, from the Mission District to Nob Hill.

Here, listed alphabetically is our list of the best Italian restaurants in San Francisco:

1) The Italian region of Campania is noted for a flavorful cuisine that centers around tomatoes, onions, cheeses, pasta, and cured meats. A16 – named for the autoroute that runs through the region – features Campania-inspired dishes like braised pork shoulder, pasta with cauliflower and crab, or rustic duck meatballs. The starters here are especially good. Try roasted asparagus with walnut cream; house-made prosciutto with persimmons, hazelnuts, and pomegranate seeds; or creamy, rich burrata cheese with crostini. There are 40 wines – mostly Italian varietals – available by the glass, and carafes of wine are also an option. A16 is also one of the best pizza restaurants in town.

2) Located in a building that was once a chapel, Acquarello is one of the most sophisticated Italian restaurants in the Bay Area. The menu, which changes frequently, might feature contemporary Italian foods like gnocchi and Swiss chard in brown butter and sage, a grilled sea bass on warm artichoke and potato salad, or lobster panzerotti. The 500-bottle wine list has lots of great choices from Italy and California. The chocolate cake dusted with gold is worth saving room for. If you’re on a budget, the four-course tasting menu is a good value.

3) Another excellent pizza restaurant, Delfina’s is a Mission District favorite. Making the most of what’s fresh from the farm as well as locally made cheeses and naturally raised beef and lamb, Delfina’s features starters like grilled calamari and white bean salad, incredible pastas like pappardelle with braised lamb, and bistro classics like steak frites. The eclectic menu changes nightly. The heated, covered terrace is a nice spot on balmy evenings. Prices for both food and wine are very reasonable.

Salumi

5) A family-owned North Beach trattoria, l’Osertia del Forno has a limited menu, but everything on it is delicious. First of all, there’s the delicious focaccia to tide you over until the food arrives. Then there are a few pasta dishes, a couple of daily specials – hope for the milk-braised pork – a daily roast, some polenta, and good, thin-crust pizza. It’s inexpensive, informal, and good.

6) The chef and co-owner at La Ciccia is Sardinian, and the menu here recalls the dishes he grew up with on the island. Start with the seafood salad, dressed with lemon and fresh herbs or calamari with mint and white wine. Then sink into pasta with clams, tomatoes, and saffron. or spaghetti with mullet row. The food pairs perfectly with Sardinian wines like Vermentino.

7) Dishes from the Northern Italian regions of Liguria and Piemonte dominate the menu at Perbacco. The antipasto of house-made salumi is a clear winner. Try pappardella in a ragu made with braised short ribs, veal-stuffed agnolotti in cabbage and meat sauce, or milk-braised pork shoulder. The two-story, exposed brick space is sophisticated and lively. And the wine list is excellent, but not cheap.

8) Located in a brick building in Jackson Square, Quince is one of the most elegant Italian restaurants in San Francisco. Chef Michael Tusk did stints at Chez Panisse and Oliveto, and the invention of those trend setters shines through. The best way to experience all of Quince’s delights is to invest in their five- or eight-course tasting menu. That way, you’ll get to try small portions of sensational dishes like pasta with foie gras; pork loin, belly, and sausage with chestnut puree; and veal rib chop with chanterelles and fontina cheese. This is one of the top tables in town for a celebration dinner.

1) A16
2) Acquarello
3) Delfina’s
4) Incanto
5) L’Osteria del Forno
6) La Ciccia
7) Perbacco
8) Quince

View Italian Restaurants in San Francisco in a larger map

Find more great Italian restaurants here.

Short Rib Pasta Image Flickr: stu_spivack
Salumi Image Flickr: WordRidden

St. Peter's Square

It was harder than I thought it would be, because she only has ten days. And there are so many great places to see in Italy that narrowing it down is a real challenge.

My first tip was not to bite off more than she could chew. On your first trip, you want to see as much as possible. It’s only natural. But the less time you spend traveling, the more you’ll enjoy your trip. So we decided that with ten days, she should only stay in three places. That way, she’d only have two travel days.

Traveling in Italy is pretty easy. But the trains don’t always run on time, and repacking your bags and moving from one hotel to another is always more time-consuming than you think it will be. So when planning a trip to Italy, bear that in mind.

The most convenient and affordable air service is into Rome, so I suggested that she spend the first four nights there. She’ll be pretty jet laggy, and staying put for a few days will help her keep from getting exhausted. Besides, no one ever has enough time in Rome.

Gondola Ride

Here’s the itinerary we roughed out:

Day 1. Arrive Rome. Check into Teatropace 33, near Piazza Navona. Afternoon stroll to Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, and Spanish Steps. Dinner near Piazza Navona.

Day 2. Rome. AM visit to Campo de Fiori, then explore ancient Rome — Imperial Forum, Colosseum, and Roman Forum. Afternoon shopping. Dinner near Campo de Fiori.

Day 3. Rome. AM visit to Vatican Museums, St. Peter’s, and Castel Sant’Angelo. Afternoon at Acqua Madre Spa or shopping for antiques on Via dei Coronari. Dinner in Trastevere.

Day 4: Rome. Gallerie Borghese, or cooking class, or side trip to Tivoli, or side trip to Ostia Antica.

Bridge of Sighs

Day 6: Florence. Early AM visit to Accademia. Visit to Duomo and Baptistery. Afternoon shopping.

Day 7: Florence. Day trip to Siena or Lucca.

Day 8: Two-hour train from Florence to Venice. Check into Locanda Orseolo. Afternoon tours of St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace.

Day 9: Venice. AM visit to Lido or Murano. Then art museums, churches, or shopping. Evening gondola ride.

Day 10: Home

By keeping the number of cities to a minimum, she’ll spend the least amount of time hauling bags and waiting for trains. And she’ll have plenty of time to sample the gelato, go into all the irresistible shops, and linger over a glass of wine in the piazza.

Read more about travel to Italy here.

Basilica of Sant' Apollinare Ravenna

Ravenna has a fascinating history. At one time or other, it’s been under Roman, Papal, and Venetian rule. But what really put Ravenna on the map was the Byzantine conquest in 540AD. The most beautiful mosaics in the world were produced here during that era. And they’re remarkably well preserved today. Many of them are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Much of Ravenna is a pedestrian zone, so you can walk to most of the sights, except for Sant’Apollinaire in Classe, which is about four miles from town. In ancient times, this was the port. Now, it’s inland. You can get there by city bus — they run often and drop you a 2-minute walk from the church. Buy your tickets at the tobacco store. And buy a combination ticket that includes admission to many of the churches.

Ravenna attractions.

Consecrated in 549, the church isn’t much to look at from the outside. But inside’s another story. Walk down the wide nave through the marble columns to the semi-circular apse. The 58 windows on the outer aisles flood the church with light. The arch and half dome over the high altar are covered with exquisite mosaics that glitter with gold. In the center, Sant’Apollinaire, the first bishop of Ravenna, is flanked by 12 lambs, symbolizing the Apostles. Birds, plants, and animals populate the paradise in the background. Christ is represented by the gold cross on a blue background covered with stars. Sant’Apollinaire is dazzling, incredible, amazing. Don’t miss it.

Back in town, the Basilica of San Vitale was consecrated in 548. The octagonal church is crowned with a dome, but the best mosaics are in the choir and the apse. Translucent panels bring in natural light which makes the mosaics sparkle. Christ is depicted surrounded by saints and angels. Plants and animals are at his feet. The emperor Justinian appears on the left of the apse. His wife, Theodora, is on the right. Look for the dolphins with crossed tails.

The third must-see in Ravenna is the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. It’s on the grounds of San Vitale. The daughter of Emperor Theodosius I, Galla Placidia was the de facto ruler of the Roman Empire for 12 years, and though she‘s not buried here, it‘s a fitting tribute. The mausoleum is at least 100 years older than San Vitale. The mosaics here are some of the most brilliantly colored in the world. Once inside, you’re surrounded by shimmering blue, green, and gold. The Good Shepherd appears at the entrance, and then eight of the Apostles appear in pairs on each of the walls beneath the dome. The other four appear on their own in the transepts.

Ravenna hotels.

San Vitale Ravenna

In a palace that was originally built in the 14th century, Albergo Cappello has just seven lovely rooms. It’s a short stroll from San Vitale and the mausoleum, and the Piazza del Popolo. With 15th century frescoes, Murano glass chandeliers, beamed ceilings, and tile floors, this is the most atmospheric hotel in Ravenna. It was completely renovated in 1998, and today they have LCD TVs, mini fridges, WiFi access, and in-room safes. There’s a restaurant and wine bar.

A member of the Best Western chain, Hotel Bisanzio is also very near San Vitale. In fact, you can see it from some of the upper-floor rooms. Like Ravenna’s churches, it doesn’t look like much from the outside. The lobby is all marble and leather club chairs, and there’s a private garden where you can relax with a glass of wine. The 38 modern rooms have mini bars and safes. And non-smoking rooms are available.

Just off Ravenna’s pedestrian concourse, the NH Ravenna Hotel is near Ravenna’s other significant churches — Sant’Apollinaire Nuovo and San Giovanni Evangelista. With 84 rooms, it’s one of the biggest hotels in town, and it’s the first choice of business travelers. Rooms are attractive with wood paneling and modern bathrooms. There’s a restaurant and bar, and you can rent a bike for exploring the city.

In a villa built in 1407 and refurbished in 2004, Villa Santa Maria in Foris has the most spacious rooms in town. They’re available in a variety of configurations from simple single rooms to elaborate suites. And they have wood floors and marble baths, some with whirlpools. The public areas, which include a library, breakfast room, and courtyard, are a big part of the appeal here. Although there’s no restaurant, a lavish breakfast buffet is served. When the weather’s nice, you can have it in the garden.

1) Basilica San Vitale
2) Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
3) Albergo Cappello
4) Hotel Basanzio
5) NH Hotel Ravenna
6) Villa Santa Maria in Foris

View Ravenna hotels and attractions. in a larger map

Read more Italy trip planning ideas here.

Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare image Flickr: rdesai
San Vitale image Flickr: seier+seier+seier

Roman Coliseum

Some of the best Italian restaurants in the world are in Rome. The cuisine of Rome is rich and rustic, with hearty meat dishes and terrific pastas. Two of the best known are Spaghetti alla Carbonara with pancetta, eggs, and Parmesan cheese, and Bucatini all’Amatriciana with tomatoes, pancetta, and onions.

Other Roman specialties you should try include stuffed fried zucchini blossoms, Saltimbocca, which is veal stuffed with prosciutto, cheese, and sage, and porchetta, or roast suckling pig. You’ll also find traditional Italian foods like gnocchi and pizza on most menus.

The best expensive Italian restaurants in Rome.

The proud recipient of three Michelin stars, La Pergola is generally acknowledged to be the best Italian restaurant in Rome. Located in the roof garden atop the Cavalieri Hilton, La Pergola has sweeping views of Rome and a beautiful frescoed ceiling in the elegant interior. Chef Heinz Beck is actually German, but he has wholeheartedly embraced Italian culinary tradition and used it as a launching pad for his creations. You’ll find everything here from the simplest tortellini or tomato salad to an ambitious duck-liver scallop with crisp pigeon. The 48,000-bottle wine cellar and the service are both superb. Make reservations well in advance and take a credit card with a high ceiling.

Pantheon

Conveniently located near the Pantheon, Il Convivio is one of the best Italian restaurants in Rome. It’s a traditional, formal place with old-world elegance and service. The clientele leans heavily toward affluent Italian executives. The kitchen’s attention to detail is apparent even in standards like risotto and fava beans. Roasted pigeon and duck dishes are top notch. And organ meats, which are popular in Rome, are as good as you’ll get.

Although fish is not as popular in Rome as it is in Naples or Sicily, Rome does have a very good seafood restaurant called Quinzi & Gabrieli. It’s in a 16th-century building not far from the Pantheon, and the terrace opens onto a small square. The fish couldn’t get any fresher – chances are, it was swimming in one of the tanks before it made its way to the kitchen. Clams (vongole) in a garlicky wine broth or calamari are a great way to start your meal, which could be perfectly cooked swordfish or sea bass. The three rooms are painted with frescoes of Portofino, Capri, and Elba. If you love seafood, this is your best bet in Rome.

The best affordable Italian restaurants.

Piazza Navona

Located on Piazza della Coppelle, not far from Piazza Navona, Maccheroni serves traditional Roman dishes and specialties from other regions of Italy as well. The most popular dish here is the Spaghetti Carbonara. But triofie al pesto, which originates in Santa Margherita Ligure, is another standout. The rustic interior is cozy in winter, and if you’re seated inside, you can watch the chefs at work. On a nice day, take one of the tables outside and enjoy the action on the piazza.

Owned by married couple Agata Parisella (who cooks) and Romeo Caraccio (who manages the dining room), Agata e Romeo has all the charm of a family-run place. The cooking here is modern, but steeply routed in tradition. Expect dishes like oxtail stew, rabbit croquettes, and inventive pastas. The modern décor is a nice change, and the restaurant is centrally located near the Vittorio Emanuele Monument (the dentures). Try to save room for the especially good desserts.

For the price, Antico Arco serves some of the best food in Rome. Above Trastevere on the Gianicolo Hill, Antico Arco serves imaginatively prepared rabbit, duck, and pheasant, in addition to the expected meats and pasta dishes. Chef Patricia Mattei uses lots of fresh vegetables and herbs, and her flavors are clean and bright — the duck breast starter is a must have. Antico Arco has a good wine list, and service is friendly and professional. There’s no terrace, but the attractive interior was redone in 2007. Reservations are required.

Located in the old courtyard of a 16th-century palazzo, Casa Bleve is the most elegant wine bar in Rome. It has one of the best selections of wine – both by the bottle and the glass – in town. But the lunchtime antipasto bar here is equally appealing. Platters filled with rolled veal tonnato, braciole, turkey rolls, marinated vegetables, cheeses, cured meats, and Sicilian desserts beckon. Indicate what you want to one of the servers, and he’ll compose a plate for you. It’s a great way to sample lots of Italian foods without breaking the bank.

Read more about food in Italy here.

Find the best Italian restaurants in Florence here.

Castle Nuovo

If you use common sense, keep a close eye on your valuables, and don’t go where you don’t belong – especially after dark – you should be just fine. And you’ll get to enjoy all that Naples has to offer. Not the least of which is great food.

The National Museum of Archaeology is the best in Italy, and a must-do for anyone planning to visit Pompeii. The Bay of Naples, dominated by towering Vesuvius, is one of the most beautiful in the world. And Neapolitan pizza alone is worth the visit.

There are many fine hotels in Naples, and several offer sweeping views of the Bay.

Located in a 19th-cenury, Liberty-style palazzo, Constantinopoli 104 is a short stroll from Piazza Plebscito and the archaeology museum. Many of its 19 rooms, have huge stained-glass windows overlooking the pretty gardens. Some have balconies, others open onto the terrace. The common areas retain the feel of a private villa. And the pool is especially welcome on hot, summer days. Though its convenient to most of Naples’s attractions, once you’re behind its gates, Constantinopoli 104 seems far removed from the hustle and bustle of Naples.

Plebiscito Square Naples

Although it doesn’t look like it from the outside, Grande Hotel Vesuvio is the most historic hotel in Naples. Enrico Caruso died here, and luminaries from Oscar Wilde to Bill Clinton have enjoyed the stellar service. Like Parker’s, Vesuvio is noted for its views. And its large, nicely outfitted rooms with marble baths and Jacuzzi tubs are the most comfortable in town. If you can afford it, reserve a bay view room with a balcony. The food at the roof-top Caruso restaurant is worthy of the view.

Galleria Umberto Naples

Built between 1887 and 1891, Galleria Umberto’s soaring, glass-domed ceilings and intricate iron work make it one of the most beautiful structures in Naples. It was originally intended to house shops, cafes, and businesses. And today, it’s also home to a charming small hotel, Art Resort Galleria Umberto. With only ten rooms, it tends to fill up quickly, often with musicians performing at the San Carlo Opera House, across the street. Rooms have free WiFi, LCD TVs, and balconies, most of which look out over the galleria. Breakfast and late afternoon appetizers are included in the rate.

Read more about Neapolitan food here. And find more Italian hotels here.

Trevi Fountain Rome

But Rome is very much a city of the present. So your trip planning should include some insider experiences that let you enjoy la dolce vita away from the crowds.

Here are some of our tips for having the best possible time in Rome:

* Not that long ago, a visit to Rome involved spending your time waiting in line, often for hours. But Rome’s attractions have entered the 21st century, and now it’s possible to make reservations and purchase tickets for many of them in advance. A service called 060608 lets you reserve museums, exhibitions, concerts, and more with a single telephone call. From the U.S., dial 011-39-060608 between 9AM and 10:30PM Roman time. English-speaking operators can help you make reservations for the Coliseum, the Capitoline Museum, or the Borghese Gallery with just a credit card. Or visit their web site at www.060608.it/en

Borghese Gardens

* Traveling in Rome can be tiring. The incessant buzzing of Vespas — the word means wasp in Italian — the crowds, and the heat can really take it out of you. So why not reenergize yourself the way the ancient Romans did — with a nice hot soak. Rome’s first Turkish bath, or hamman, opened a couple of years ago near Piazza Mattei. At Acqua Madre, you’ll move progressively from cooler to warmer pools, being massaged, steamed, and kneaded along the way. By the time you’re through, you’ll be completely mellow and ready for anything.

* Fans of Art Nouveau, known in Italy as the Liberty style, should allow time to visit the Quartiere Coppede. It’s not far from the Villa Borghese, near the Piazza Buenos Aires. Built between 1919 and 1926 by Florentine architect Gino Coppede, it’s a little architectural wonderland. The entrance, off Via Dora, is through a giant, medieval-looking arch that is covered with reliefs of bees, lions, and mythological creatures. The dozen buildings here feature elaborate ironwork, turrets, mosaic tiles, winding staircase, and elaborate brickwork. Look for the Fountain of the Frogs, the Palazzo of the Spider, and the charming Fairy Cottages.

* Traffic in Rome can be brutal, and the distances between sights can really take a toll on your feet. But there’s another way to see the glory that was Rome — on two wheels. On Sundays, the Via Appia Antica and the Via Fori dei Imperiali are closed to cars and bikes rule the day. There are several bike rental places in town — ask your hotel concierge which is most convenient for you. You can take a guided-tour with a group or just head out on your own. Pedaling past the Coliseum and the olive groves and cypress trees of the old military road is a travel memory you won’t soon forget.

* Antique lovers should head for Via dei Coronari, where more than 40 antique dealers sell everything from furniture to jewelry. The narrow, pedestrian-only street leads all the way to Piazza Navona, and it’s lined with buildings dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The best time to shop is during the Fiera dell’Antiquariato, which takes place in mid-May and mid-October.

Coliseum Rome

* Mozzarella is on virtually every menu in Rome. But no place has as many varieties as Obika, which features “flights” of hand-made mozzarella, including Paestum, Pontina, Smoked, Stracciatella di Burrata and Ricotta di Bufala. In addition to the mozzarella bar, Obika also has traditional antipasti items, salads, crostini from the wood oven, pastas, and desserts. The location in Piazza di Firenze proved so popular that there’s now a second Obika at Piazza Campo dei Fiori.

Read our trip planning tips for Paris here. And find more Italy travel info here.

Castello Scaligero, Sirmione Italy

Sirmione hotels are available in all price ranges. And it’s a great place to unwind.

It was first appreciated by the Romans who discovered hot springs and built baths here. Sirmione was later ruled by the Veronese and Venetians, whose architectural legacy adds to the resort’s appeal. Much of the old town is closed to automobile traffic, making it ideal to explore on foot.

With its moat and turrets, 13th-century Castello Scaligero is pretty impressive. It was the home of the ruling family of Verona, and it’s worth climbing the towers for views of the lake. The castle serves as the only land-based entrance to the old town.

You can also visit the ruins of the Grotte di Catullo — there’s a tram that runs from the north end of the old town. It’s unclear whether the ruins were actually the baths of Catullus, the Roman poet, but they’re well worth a visit anyway. The site is well preserved, the views of the lake from the top of the hill are breathtaking, and it’s a lovely spot for enjoying the timeless beauty of the area.

Lake Garda is one of the cleanest lakes in the region, and temperatures are inviting from May through September. So be sure to get in the water. The best place for swimming is the Lido delle Bionde beach, where you can rent beach chairs, umbrellas, and water sports equipment.

The best hotels in Sirmione.

The most luxurious hotel in Sirmione, Villa Cortine is a 19th-century Palladian villa set in a beautifully landscaped 12-acre park. The property slopes gently down to the lake where there’s a private beach and boat launch. Service here is the best you’ll find on Lake Garda and guests want for nothing. A wing was added in the 1950s and while the rooms here lack the charm of those in the original villa, they have better views of the lake. The flagstone terrace with its colonnade is a lovely place for a meal or a cocktail. In addition to two restaurants, Villa Cortine also has beach barbecues in summer. And the staff is happy to arrange virtually any activity you can think of.

Hotel Sirmione, Lake Garda

Another choice for those who want to stay in the heart of the old town is Hotel Speranza, Occupying the upper floors of an arcade on the main piazza, it’s steps from the castle and the lake. The 13 rooms here are simple, with modern furniture and parquet floors. And there’s a small lobby and breakfast rooms. Speranza is an affordable property, conveniently located for enjoying all Sirmione has to offer.

Located on a hilltop on the Sirmione Peninsula not far from the Roman ruins, Olivi offers beautiful views of the lake from the pretty terrace and from most of the 58 rooms. Set in a grove of century-old pine and olive trees and decorated in the earth tones that are traditional in the area, Olivi has a lot of character. The swimming pool is surrounded by gardens, and spa services and massages are available.

Grotte di Catullo, Lake Garda

The 16 rooms at Grifone are some of the best values in Sirmione. Located right next to the castle on the lake, the hotel occupies an old stone building that’s covered with vines. Rooms on the upper floors have small balconies overlooking the lake, and there’s a restaurant and a bar. The décor is simple, but service is cordial – it’s a family-run business – and Grifone is a very pleasant spot.

Similar to Grifone, but without the lake-front location, Corte Regnia is also located in an old stone building on a side street in the old town. The 14 attractive rooms have been updated and equipped with new bathrooms. Service is friendly. There’s a sunny terrace for enjoying the nice weather. And the restaurant is good too.

Find other Lake Garda hotels and attractions.

Castello Scaligero image Flickr: cjnzja
Grotte di Catullo image Flickr: edo-finelight
Hotel Sirmione image Flickr: Taver

Villa il Vittoriale, Lake Garda

Lake Garda is one of the cleanest lakes in Italy, and Riva del Garda is a popular windsurfing destination. There are several Lake Garda resorts to choose from, each with a distinct ambience.

Most of the better Lake Garda hotels have access to the lake, a swimming pool, water sports equipment rentals, tennis, and other activities. And most close between October and May.

Gardone Riviera hotels and attractions.

Best known for Villa il Vittoriale, the home of poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, Gardone Riviera is on the western shore of the lake. The ornately decorated Villa is one of the few must-see attractions in the area. D’Annunzio lived here from 1921 until his death in 1938. He spent years working with architect Giancarlo Maroni to transform the estate into a very singular place. You’ll see Liszt’s piano, Beethoven’s death mask, a boat protruding from a hillside, and countless works of art.

Gardone has a lower town on the banks of the lake and an upper town on a rolling hillside above the lake. The two are joined by the Giardino Botanico Hruska, the beautiful gardens owned by artist Andre Heller. The gardens were first laid out in 1910 and there are more than 2,000 species of plants.

If you’re in the area on the weekend, there’s a lively market at the Piazza dei Martiri della Liberta in the town of Salo, on Saturday mornings.

There are several good hotels in Gardone Riviera.

Dating from 1903, Villa Fiordaliso is the most architecturally interesting Lake Garda hotel. The pink-and-white Liberty style villa – as Art Nouveau is known in Italy – has hosted many notables over the years, and was once the home of Mussolini’s mistress. It’s a member of the Relais & Chateaux chain. With just seven rooms, it’s one of the most exclusive Lake Garda resorts, and the most expensive. The restaurant has received a Michelin star and when the weather’s fine, you can enjoy your meal right at the water’s edge. Each of the rooms is elaborately decorated with marble, antiques, parquet floors, and frescoes ceilings. It’s hard to imagine a more beautiful place to stay.

One of the most photographed spots in Gardone, the Grand Hotel Fasano began life in the 19th century as an Austrian hunting lodge. Not only does it enjoy a wonderful lake-front setting, it also adjoins a 12,000-square-mile private park. There’s a small pier for swimming, and a series of nicely landscaped terraces and gardens. There are several restaurants and even a sushi bar. The breakfast buffet served on the terrace is a great way to start the day, and the public areas are undeniably grand. Many of the 75 rooms have terraces, and all have modern bathrooms. For a more exclusive experience, you can upgrade to one of the 12 units in Villa Principe, which are slightly larger and set away from the main complex in small grove.

Winston Churchill was a frequent guest of the Grand Hotel Gardone, which was built in 1884. The lovely Liberty style bar here is named for him, and it’s still a smashing place for a cocktail. One of the larger Lake Garda hotels, the Grand has 143 well-furnished rooms and 23 large suites. Most of them have views of the lake. And they’ve been updated with minibars, satellite LCD TVs, Internet access, and safes. The Wellness Zone offers every imaginable health and beauty treatment. And the lovely terrace is practically at lake level. The Grand is an excellent choice in Gardone.

One of the few Lake Garda hotels that’s not on the lake, five-star Villa del Sogno has gorgeous views of the lake nonetheless. Set in a beautiful private park punctuated with neo-Classical temples and surrounded by woods, Villa del Sogno is one of the most romantic places on Lake Garda. The public areas and rooms are furnished with turn-of-the-century antiques. Guests can swim in the beautiful pool, sunbathe on the roof-top terrace, or play tennis. During the summer, concerts are often held on the terrace and full moons are a special occasion here.

Located in a park on Lake Garda, Villa Maria Elisabetta is a monastery that offers simple accommodations, many of which have lake views. Most of the 47 rooms have private baths. And there’s a TV room, a dining room, bar, and sun deck. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better value in Gardone.

Riva del Garda hotels and attractions.

Riva del Garda, Italy

At the north end of Lake Garda, Riva del Garda is backed by steep, wooded cliffs that rise dramatically from the water. When it’s breezy, you’ll see lots of windsurfers on the lake. The town has several lake-front parks and pebbly beaches, and the waterfront is lined with boutiques, cafes, and gelati shops.

The striking medieval tower rising from Riva del Garda’s main piazza is the 13th-century Torre d’Apponale. If it’s open, climb it for spectacular views of the lake and surrounding hills. La Rocca Castle and its exhibition of local art is also worth a visit. The tourist office has walking tours on weekends. But a leisurely stroll along the waterfront promenade is equally rewarding.

Although the name implies a historic property, the Hotel du Lac et du Parc is a modern hotel with 159 rooms. The private-park setting is the big draw here. And there’s a beach with water sports rentals. The large pool is especially appealing, and the wellness center offer a variety of treatments. The 45 new Murialdo Suites include kitchenettes. And there are also 33 bungalows in the park. Hotel du Lac certainly isn’t the most romantic place around, but it’s a good choice for families.

Hotel Sole enjoys the best location in Riva del Garda. The main piazza is on one side, and the lake is on the other. Located in a 15th-century palazzo with a grand staircase, ornate antiques, and Persian rugs, it’s a slightly formal place. But the rooms are warm and comfortable. The ones with balconies are worth the extra cost. And there’s no better spot in town for a drink than the rooftop terrace. Sole offers good value for money in Riva.

Budget accommodations are few and far between here, but Montanara – a popular local trattoria – has nine rooms above the restaurant. The old town location is convenient, and the rooms, though basic, are clean. Both private and shared baths are available, so if you care, make sure you know what you’re getting.

Limone sul Garda hotels and attractions.

Limone Lake Garda, Italy

If you’re serious about windsurfing, Capo Reamol has it’s own school where you can learn the basics. Other water sports equipment is available to rent, as well as mountain bikes. Most of the 58 spacious rooms here have lake views. B rooms have balconies, and A rooms have large terraces with deck chairs for relaxing. The pool is on a terrace that looks out over the lake. The bar and restaurant offer panoramic views.

Surrounded by palms and featuring a lovely terrace restaurant right on Lake Garda, Le Palme is one of the nicest hotels in Lake Garda. Because there are only 28 rooms here, Le Palme often fills up quickly. But others can be accommodated at the Splendid Palace, a sister hotel. Guests of Le Palme can use the large pool there. Many rooms have lake views, and a few have small balconies. There’s a small swimming pool on site and a beach that’s within walking distance.

Find our recommended Sirmione hotels.

Villa il Vittoriale image Flickr: °Simo°
Riva del Garda image Flickr: mawel
Limone Lake Garda image Flickr: cooldudeandy01

Alghero

But Alghero on the northwestern side of the island is a charming destination.  And Alghero hotels are much less expensive than those on the Costa Smeralda.

Alghero was first settled in the tenth century by the Genoese, who defended it from the Moors.  But the biggest influence came from the Spanish who conquered the area in the 14th century.  In fact, Alghero is sometimes called “Little Barcelona” because of the Spanish architecture and presence of Catalan language, which is still spoken here.

The town’s narrow lanes, cobbled streets, and tiny piazzas are lined with quaint bars, restaurants, and shops.  The old town is surrounded by fortress walls and several towers, many of which date from the 16th century.  And two churches — the Duomo and San Michele — are worth visiting.

There’s an excellent beach north of town.  And Neptune’s Grotto, a dreamy cave filled with spectacular stalactites and stalagmites, is reached by a short boat trip from Alghero.

The best hotels in Alghero for exploring the area.  

Many Alghero hotels are oceanfront and landscaped with terraced, Mediterranean gardens.  Several enjoy spectacular settings.  The 13,000-acre Porto Conte Regional Park is not far from town, and several of the hotels back up to the park.   

Cap Caccia, Alghero

Walking distance from the center or town, Carlos V is just up the road from Villa la Tronas.  Each of the rooms here has a balcony, with a view of the ocean or the property’s lovely gardens.  One of two five-star hotels in Alghero, it was renovated in 2006.   The rooms are spacious and modern, and the salt-water pool is huge. The location here is hard to beat, and the views from the pool, dining room, and bar are sensational.

El Faro Hotel

Dating from the 18th century, the Alghero Resort Country Hotel has retained some of the original charm.  The 22 rooms have wooden beams and tile floors, but they’ve been thoroughly updated with LCD TVs and WiFi Internet access.  The resort is painted in traditional Sardinian colors, and because of the rural surroundings, it really does have a country feel.  With a spa, fitness center, horseback riding, bike rentals, and tennis courts, you won’t run out of things to do.  The patio restaurant looks out over a valley and features a seasonal menu.

Once the convent of the Church of San Francisco, the 20 rooms at San Francesco surround a cloister that dates from the 14th century.  Several original Roman columns are in the cloister.  The location in the historic old town is convenient for restaurants and shopping.  The rooms are simply furnished, but they’re clean and functional.  And prices are reasonable.  San Francesco has more character than any other Alghero hotel.  

Find more trip planning tips for travel to Italy. 

Alghero Image Flickr: xagra
Cap Caccia Image Flickr: ComùnicaTI
El Faro Hotel Image Flickr: gio_greco

Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni

It’s arguably the most beautiful town in the lakes.  And if you keep your eyes peeled, you might spot local resident George Clooney water skiing.

Bellagio hotels run the gamut from luxurious to simple, so even travelers of modest means should be able to afford a couple of unforgettable nights here.  If ever a place was worth splurging, Bellagio is.

Most of the hotels in Bellagio close for the winter, usually from November or December through March or April.  And the smaller ones fill up several months in advance during peak season.  So if you have your heart set on a place, book early. 

Consistently rated as one of the top Bellagio hotels, Hotel Florence occupies a charming 19th-century villa with beautiful woodwork, a delightful terrace overlooking the lake, and an impressive old fireplace from Florence.  Over the years, Hotel Florence has played host to Mark Twain, Puccini, and others.  The location across from the ferry dock is handy for exploring Lake Como and its towns.  And the lovely bar attracts plenty of non-guests.  Many of the rooms are large by Bellagio standards, most have beautiful views, and they‘re beautifully decorated with lovely antiques like four-poster beds.  The modern spa offers any treatment you could want. 

Right across from the main dock, the Hotel du Lac overlooks Bellagio’s pretty main square.  The hotel has been in business for 150 years, and owned by the same family for more than 50.  It takes advantage of smashing lake views at every turn – from the restaurant under the arcade to the roof-top terrace garden, a great spot for an afternoon cocktail.  Rooms have minibars and satellite TV.   With terraces or balconies overlooking the lake, the superior rooms here are worth the added expense.  There’s WiFi Internet access in the common areas.   And guests can use the pool and health club facilities at the Bellagio Sporting Club.

Bellagio, Lake Como

In addition to indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a private dock, full-service spa, tennis courts, and an exercise room, Villa Serbelloni also has a private beach on Lake Como where you can rent watersports equipment.

Above Villa Serbelloni on a hill overlooking the lake, Residence Ulivo is a less expensive alternative for those who plan to spend a week or more.  Each of the 12 units here has a private sitting area and kitchenette, and some have lake views.  There are apartments designed for 2, 4, or 6 people.  Guests have access to all the facilities at the hotel, many of which, including a covered pool, the spa, and a restaurant, stay open for Residence Ulivo guests even when the hotel is closed.  This is a nice alternative for those who want more space than a traditional hotel room offers.

Family-owned Hotel Belvedere also opened in the 1880s.  Pride of ownership is evident throughout the hotel and the service is professional and attentive.   The 59 modern rooms and suites are located in three buildings in a private park.  They have nice touches like safe deposit boxes and marble bathrooms.  Suites have Jacuzzi tubs.  And deluxe rooms have lake-view balconies or patios.  The terraced gardens leading down to the lake are lovely, and there’s a swimming pool and off-street parking.  The Belvedere also has three apartments with separate entrances.  This is one of the largest Bellagio hotels, and one of the nicest.  Chances are, you won’t be disappointed here. 

Bellagio, Italy

Two of Bellagio’s popular lake-side trattorias have rooms on the floors above the restaurant – La Pergola and Silvio.  If you’re looking for affordable Bellagio accommodations, both have tidy rooms, most with private bath and lake views.

Find more tips on things to do and see in the Italian lakes here.  Or check out more Italian trip planning information here. 

Serbelloni Image Flickr: Frankensteinnn
Bellagio and Bellagio Port Image Flickr: MACSURAK

Bergamo, Italy

Bergamo hotels, especially those in Bergamo Alta, tend to be fully booked months in advance during high season, so plan ahead.

In the upper town, Piazza Vecchio has a 12th-century clock tower, law courts dating from the same period, and a 16th-century library. The Cappella Colleoni — a beautiful chapel designed by Amadeo for the captain who ruled Bergamo on behalf of the Venetians in the 15th century — is in the adjoining Piazza del Duomo. The ornate pink and white marble façade features twisting columns and a rose window. Inside, there’s a ceiling by Tiepolo and a high altar with scenes from the Life of Christ.

Also on Piazza del Duomo are the octagonal Baptistery and the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Gaetano Donizetti was born in Bergamo and he is entombed in a sarcophagus in the basilica. Visitors to the church should look for the intricate choir stalls designed by Lorenzo Lotto. And opera fans will enjoy the Donizetti Museum, in the house where the composer was born.

Bergamo’s art gallery, the Galleria dell’Accademia Carrara, has paintings by all the Italian masters, including Botticelli, Titian, and Raphael. The collection is especially strong in Venetian painting. It’s a must-visit for art lovers and surprisingly impressive.

The best Bergamo hotels in the upper town.

Most visitors to Bergamo want to stay in the medieval upper town. Since the are only a few hotels in Bergamo located there, you’ll need to make reservation well in advance to secure a room.

Mere steps from Piazza Vecchia on a cobbled street filled with shops and restaurants, Hotel Piazza Vecchia is housed in an old three-story townhouse that dates from the 14th century. The owners have managed to combine the best of old and new with stone bathrooms, open beams, and parquet floors, as well as thoughtful updates like WiFi access, and LCD TVs. Rooms and common areas are decorated with Impressionist reproductions painted by the innkeeper. Otherwise, the décor is stark and modern. With only 13 rooms, this lovely design hotel fills up fast.

Capella Colleoni, Bergamo

Agnello d’Oro is a cute litte place very near Piazza Vecchia. The 20-room hotel overlooks a small piazza with a pretty fountain and some of the rooms on the front have balconies. If you don’t pop for a balcony, you can go up to the roof terrace for views of the harbor and lower town. The bathrooms have all been updated, and the rooms have mini bars and air conditioning. There’s a cozy restaurant on site, and several others within walking distance. This is not a luxury hotel, but the location is hard to beat and it has a lot of old-world charm. An added bonus for drivers is the parking garage.

Located in a former convent a short stroll from Bergamo’s main square, Hotel San Lorenzo opened in 1998. The building is encircled with a balcony and many of the rooms have French doors that open out onto it and overlook a tidy courtyard. There are views the other direction out over the valley. The nicely decorated rooms include amenities like satellite TV, mini bars, and hair dryers. Recent guests have complained about construction noise and dust at the property, so be advised that this could be a problem.

The best Bergamo hotels in the lower town.

Piazza Vecchia, Bergamo

Located in a restored palace that dates from 1879, The Mercure Bergamo Palazzo Dolci is the newest Bergamo hotel. Its 88 modern rooms have safety deposit boxes, satellite TV, and high-speed Internet access. The bar has a nice selection of Italian wines. It’s very convenient for those traveling by train or arriving by airplane. And several accessible rooms are available.

Hotel Cappello d’Oro is also close to the funicular and train station. As a member of the Best Western chain, it has lots of features Americans appreciate — among them a bar, a restaurant, a gym, 24-hour reception, outdoor parking, and Internet access. Rooms are large and comfortable. Service is generally friendly and professional, and the location is good for shopping and restaurants.

For more information about travel in Italy.
And to learn more about what there is to see and do in Lombardy

Bergamo Image Flickr: David Spender
Capella Colleoni Bergamo Image Flickr: amandabhslater
Piazza Vecchia Bergamo Image Flickr: edithbruck

Italian Pizza Oven

Everyone loves Italian food, and sampling the local specialties is one of the best parts of traveling to Italy.  Each of Italy’s regions has its own distinctive cuisine, and Italian restaurants run the gamut from elegant to earthy.

Here are the dishes you don’t want to miss if you travel to Italy.

Roman food.

Known for its rustic comfort food, Rome serves some of the meatiest  meals in the country.  But vegetarians will appreciate the abundance of fresh produce that’s always available.  In spring, artichokes (carciofi) appear on virtually every menu, a dozen different ways.  In late summer and fall, deep fried zucchini (zucca) flowers stuffed with cheese and a little anchovy paste are extremely popular.  A Fritto Misto or mixed, fried antipasto might include both.  Fried rice croquettes (Suppli di Riso) and Gnocchi are other good non-meat choices.  The two quintessential Roman pasta dishes are Bucatini all’Amatricani, made with pancetta, tomatoes, and onions, and Spaghetti alla Carbonara, made with pancetta, eggs, and Parmesan cheese.  Although most Americans shy away from organ meats, offal is an essential part of Roman cuisine.  If you’re not that adventurous, try Salimbocca, veal cutlets stuffed with ham, cheese, and sage.  Or Porchetta, roast suckling pig.  And if you have any room left over, order the local cheescake, Torta di Ricotta.

Naples food.

Southern Italy serves the dishes most Americans think of as typically Italian.  Lots of tomatoes, garlic, onions, herbs, and cheese.   Neapolitan pizza is the best you’ll ever eat, and you owe it to yourself to have it several times.  The nearness of the Mediterranean means that seafood is prevalent.  Squid (calamari), shrimp (gamberetti), and mussels (cozze) are all wonderful dressed with lemon juice and olive oil.  Simply grilled fresh swordfish is also frequently available.   Neapolitan cuisine downplays meat, but cheese, especially mozzarella, is front and center.   It’s essential to local favorites like Eggplant Parmesan (Parmigiana di Melanzane), Lasagna, and Pasta alla Sorrentina.  For dessert, have Sfogliatelle, puff pastry shells filled with ricotta cheese and almond paste.   Citrus is an important crop here, and this area is the home of Limoncello.  Have a glass before or after your meal. Look here to learn all about Neapolitan pizza.

Sicilian food.

Sicilian desserts

If you love big, bold flavors, Sicily is the spot.  As you’d expect on an island, fresh seafood is the star, with sardines, tuna, and swordfish on every menu.  You won’t find much meat, but vegetables are always available.  Try Caponata, which combines tomatoes, peppers, onions, and olives.  And Panelle, a snack made from fried garbanzo beans.  Sicily also has terrific desserts, the most famous of which is the Sicilian Cassata made with ricotta cheese, candied fruits, and nuts.  Riccota-filled Cannoli and Almond Biscuits are also delicious.

Tuscan food.

You won’t find heavy sauces or elaborate preparations in Florence and the surrounding area.  Just simply grilled meats, fresh vegetables, and lots of beans (fagioli).  The best beef in Italy is raised here, and Bistecca alla Fiorentina — steak marinated in garlic, herbs, and olive oil and then grilled over charcoal — is the way to try it.   Of course, Tuscany is also noted for its marvelous red wines, so be sure to order some Chianti or Montepulciano.  Wild boar , rabbit, duck, and cured meats, especially Parma ham, are also good choices, as is Baccala, or salt cod, mixed with tomatoes and garlic and cooked in an earthenware pot.  For lunch, try Panzanella, a salad of toasted bread, tomatoes, and basil, or Pappa al Pomodoro, a thick tomato soup.  Bologna’s major contribution to Italian cuisine is Spaghetti al Ragu, pasta enrobed in a rich meat sauce.  Sample either lemon tart or Panforte, a delectable spice cake, for dessert.

Other Italian dishes you should try include Trenette al Pesto and Pansoti with Walnut Sauce from the coastal region outside of Genoa.  Manzo Brasato at Barolo, beef braised in Barolo wine, from Piedmont.  And risotto and Costolette alla Milanese, rice with wine, onions, and Parmesan cheese and breaded veal cutlets from Milan.

To help plan your next trip to Italy look here. And for more information about traveling in Italy read here.

Livorno Harbour

Livorno Italy is a cruise port that serves as the gateway for Tuscany.  As a result, for many travelers, Livorno is just a blur on the way to Pisa or Florence.  Which is too bad, because Livorno itself is worth exploring.

Located on a stretch of the Ligurian Sea known as the Etruscan Coast, Livorno has a charming ocean-front promenade, a series of navigable 17th-century canals, and some of the best seafood in Tuscany.

Getting to Livorno is simple enough.  It’s less than three hours by train ride from Rome or Civitavecchia (the cruise port for Rome).

Much of the city was laid out in 1567 by Medici architect Bernardo Buonatlenti.  He bounded the city with the five-sided Fossio Reale canal, anchored it with the Piazza della Repubblica, and added the Fortezza Nuova park for green space.

Here’s what to see and do in Livorno Italy:

1) Canal Cruise

Livorno’s canals, or fossi as they’re known locally, offer a unique view of the city.  The canals were originally defensive moats, and they connect the new and old fortresses with the Piazza della Repubblica, which is basically a big bridge spanning the Fosso Reale or Royal Canal.  This is the best way to see the city.

2) Terrazza Mascagni

Any town would be proud to have this wonderful, checkerboard promenade, which was originally built in the 1920s and restored in the 1990s.  It offers breathtaking views of the Tuscan archipelago.

Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno

3) Venezia Nuova

The New Venice quarter of Livorno is the most appealing area for tourists.  Here, you’ll find narrow bridges, winding lanes, canals, and merchants’ houses dating from the 17th century.  Stroll down charming Via Borra for a better look at the old storehouses that served the port.   In early August, there’s a cultural festival here with performances, street artists, and canal cruises.  In the evening, this is the liveliest spot in town with many popular bars and restaurants.

4) Mercato delle Vettovaglie

This large, covered market was built in the late 19th century in the Art Nouveau style.  Today, there are more than 200 stalls selling meat, fish, vegetables, cheese, and bread.  The market is open every morning but Sunday.

5) Mediceo Port and Fortezza Vecchia

Livorno’s Old Port is dominated by the Old Fort, which dates from 1534.  You can climb the Matilde Tower for great views of the sea and then reward yourself with a stop at the wine bar.

6) The Meloria

Rising from the sea across from the port, the Meloria is a watchtower first built by the Pisans in the 12th century.  The Medici rebuilt the tower  in 1598 after the Genoese destroyed it in 1286.  And the current tower dates from 1709.  Today, it is the symbol of Livorno.  You’ll see it on posters throughout the town.

7) Museo Fattori

Canal in Livorno

Housed in the Liberty style Villa Mimbelli, the museum has an interesting collection of 19th- and 20th-century Tuscan painting.

8) Mercatino Americano

Originally established to serve the American Military Base, today the Mercatino is the best flea market around.  After nearly sixty years in the Piazza XX Settembre, it recently relocated to the port.

After all this sightseeing in Livorno, you’re bound to work up an appetite.  Take the edge off with Cacciucco, a local rice and fish dish served on a thick slice of bread.

If you’d like to stay over, there are several good Livorno hotels to choose from.

The NH Grand Hotel Palazzo is the best Livorno hotel.   Just off the elegant Terrazza Mascagni promenade in a 19th-century palace, the hotel has beautiful ocean views, outdoor and indoor swimming pools, and a full-service spa.

Hotel Rex has a private beach, a marina, and several outdoor dining venues overlooking the sea.  It’s in a quiet neighborhood not far from Castello del Boccale.

With just 8 charming rooms, tiny Al Teatro – named for nearby Goldoni’s theater – is right in the heart of Livorno.  It provides easy access to all the city’s attractions and breakfast is served in the small, leafy garden.

Located on Piazza dei Quattro Mori, Hotel Gran Duca overlooks the harbor and the Monument of the Four Moors.   The hotel is walking distance to most of Livorno attractions, and you can dine on impeccably fresh seafood right on the plaza.  This is one of the most centrally located hotels in Livorno.

Read more Italy travel articles here.

Livorno Harbour Image Flickr: Matthias Ripp
Terrazza Mascagni Image Flickr: Eric Perrone
Canal in Livorno Italy Image Flickr: taver