Trip Planning Guide » France

Outlet shopping near Eurodisney Paris.

Trip — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:04:44 +0000

Jimmy Choos

Although Eurodisney Paris has lots of fun rides and attractions, unless you’re the best parent in the world, it’s probably not real high on your list of things to do in Paris. If you’re like many people, shopping is at or near the top.

But if you can find a volunteer to go with the kids to Disneyland Paris Resort, you can spend the day at La Vallee Village, the outlet mall that’s just a few minutes’ walk from the Disney park entrance. If you’ll have the kids in tow, there’s a play area for them at the Village.

The mall and the park can be reached via RER commuter train, or tour bus from Paris. To get to Vallee Village, get off at the Val d’Europe stop. Or sign up for their personal shopper service, which includes a private car from Paris, a 30-minute consultation, and three hours of guided shopping.

Designed with architecture that’s similar to what you’ll find in the neighboring Ile-de-France towns, La Vallee Village has nearly 100 designer outlets. It’s a pleasant, outdoor shopping mall that’s open every day except Christmas, New Year’s Day, and May 1. Which is particularly appealing on Sundays, when practically all the shops in Paris are closed.

It’s all decked out during the holidays, and since the weather in Paris is temperate, it’s a nice place to do your Christmas shopping on a budget.

L’Espace La Vallee is a cultural center that exhibits the work of established and emerging artists, fashion designers, and photographers. Four exhibitions are scheduled each year.

Most of the boutiques here sell last year’s designer fashions at discounts of up to 60%. But you can also find classics that never go out of style, like a little white blouse from Agnes B or lingerie from La Perla.

Find designer duds for the whole family

There’s clothing for men, women, and children from Armani, Burberry, Cacharel, Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Dolce & Gabbana, Faconnable, Givenchy, MaxMara, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Versace. Shoes from Jimmy Choo, Ferragamo, and Tod’s. And top-quality linens, housewares, and accessories from Baccarat, Dunhill, Lalique, Tumi, and Villeroy & Boch.

Non-French shoppers can get a VAT refund on their purchases. And there’s a Starbucks if you need a little caffeine.

Also in the neighborhood is a big, new mall called Val d’Europe. Adjacent to the train station, it has shops like H&M, Gap, and Zara, a supermarket, food court, aquarium, and several sit-down restaurants. Disney initiated the development to give people more reasons to visit — and stay — in the area.

Opened ten years, ago, La Vallee Village is one of nine outlet shopping centers in Europe. Other locations are near Milan, Barcelona, Madrid, Munich, Frankfurt, Brussels, London, and Dublin.

Find hotels in the area here or read about Walt Disney Studios here.

Jimmy Choos Image Flickr: trec_lit
Find designer duds for the whole family Image Flickr: hipposrunsuperfast.com

Enjoying rose wine in the South of France.

Trip — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 18:14:11 +0000

Provence vineyard

Everyone knows that the French make incredible red and white wine. But their rose wine is also fantastic, albeit sometimes misunderstood.

When I told a friend that we loved the rose wines we drank on our recent trip to France, she turned up her nose and said, “Isn’t that like Kool-Aid?”

The truth is that most American roses, if you can even find them, aren’t very good. We went to the California wine festival yesterday in Santa Barbara, and of the 350 wines they poured, probably fewer than 5% were roses. Of those, only one was even slightly dry.

Many American equate rose with blush wines like white Zinfandel, which are just plain awful. But French roses are delightful, excellent with food, and oh-so-drinkable.

In France, the color is very pale – often with just a tinge of salmon. The exception is Tavel, which is a deeper shade of pink. And it’s served lightly chilled.

Rose is made from red grapes, often Syrah, Grenache, or Cinsaut. The skin is left on for a few hours or a few days, depending on the type of grape. The skin gives the wine its lovely color. When the wine is pressed, the skins are removed. Since many of the tannins present in wine come from the skin, rose wine taste more like white wine than red.

There are several kinds of French rose. Anjou rose is made in the Loire Valley, and Champagne and Burgundy also produce rose wine. But to us, the best roses comes from Southern France.

Almost 80% of the wine produced in the Cotes de Provence region is rose. Made mostly from Cinsaut and Grenache, these roses are dry with floral fruit and lovely color. Chateau Miravel and Saint Roch-les-Vignes are both wonderful.

Of the rose wine from the Southern Cotes du Rhone, Tavel stands out. Made from a blend of Grenache and Syrah, it’s darker, dryer, and higher in alcohol than other French roses. It’s the perfect accompaniment to a Provencal-style lunch of Salade Nicoise, ratatouille, or grilled fish. It tastes like summer in a glass.

Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence goes from the Luberon to the Mediterranean. Some unusual grapes including Mourvedre and Counoise, produce a delicious wine with subtle raspberry fruit.

Rose wine on ice

One of the most-admired roses in France is the Domaine Tempier from Bandol, a small resort town on the Riviera not far from Cassis. The grapes grown here benefit from an average of 3,000 hours of sunlight per year. That, and Mediterranean breezes that mitigate the heat, yield notes of peach, grass, and strawberries. It’s a brilliant wine that pairs well with any summer salad.

The mistral, or north wind, does a good job keeping insects to a minimum, so the region has several organic estates that are also producing roses. If you’re visiting Arles, Avignon, or Aix-en-Provence, sample several.

If you’re stuck at home, most of the French roses available in the United States are pretty affordable. Our local wine shop has several kinds for around $15 a bottle. For a memorable summer brunch, pick up several kinds and invite some friends over for a rose tasting.

Read more about tasting wine in Avignon here.

Provence vineyard Image Flickr: jaybergesen
Rose wine on ice Image Flickr: Arthur40A

How to get to Eurodisney Paris.

Trip — Sat, 19 Jun 2010 22:58:54 +0000

Eurodisney fun

Eurodisney Paris, AKA Disneyland Paris Resort, is easy to reach from almost anywhere in Europe. If you’re going there or to Walt Disney Studios, you have plenty of options in all price ranges.

If you’re flying to Paris and going straight to Disneyland from there, Air France uses a VEA shuttle bus from Roissy/Charles de Gaulle (CDG) Airport. The shuttle is included if you purchase your air as past of a package through Disney. During peak times, the shuttles leave three times an hour, seven days a week. The trip takes 40 minutes and costs 18 euros, 15 for children.

Travelers coming to Paris by Eurostar can travel directly from St. Pancras Station in London to Marne La Vallee/Chessy, the train station that’s right next to the Eurodisney entrance gates. If you take the Disney Express you can check into your hotel and get your entrance tickets to the park right on the train. Disney actors are on board to entertain the kids, and your luggage will be taken to your hotel for you.

For those who’d rather travel by sea, you can take a SeaFrance or P&O superferry from Dover to Calais. The crossing takes about 70 minutes.

If you’re already in Paris and want to go from there, the Metro/RER regional train is really handy. The A4 line terminates at the Marne La Vallee/Chessy station. The trip takes 35 minutes and trains leave every five or ten minutes. The price will depend on where you leave from, but the average fare is around 7 euros. Other RER lines join the A4 at Auber, Chatelet/Les Halles, and Gare de Lyon. Or you can take the Metro and connect at those same stations.

Package tours that includes transfer from your Paris hotel to the park and admission to Disneyland, Walt Disney Studios, or both, are also available. Usually, you’ll be picked up before 8AM and return about 12 hours later. The price for adults is around $100.

Private car service from your hotel to the park is also available. It’s expensive if there are just two of you, but if there are six or more, it’s an affordable option and the service is door to door.

RER train in Paris

Drivers coming from Paris should take the Paris Ring Road until they come to the Porte de Bercy exit. From there, they should take the A4 east, following the signs for Metz/Nancy. Take exit 14 (Val d’Europe, Parc Disneyland).

Generally speaking, a package that includes transportation, admission to the park, and hotel nights (if you’ll be staying over) will be a better value and will save you quite a bit in the long run. Events like Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, which includes dinner, are also less expensive when purchased as part of a package.

If you’re staying at one of the Disney hotels, you can even arrange to have the Disney characters come for photo ops with your kids at a special breakfast buffet.

Eurodisney fun Image Flickr: titou.net
RER train in Paris Image Flickr: cowlet

Arles France travel tips.

Trip — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 18:38:21 +0000

Arles

We’ve recently returned from Provence and the French Riviera, and Arles was one of our favorite spots. The city first flourished under Roman rule – and there are several impressive sites dating from Roman times, impressive medieval architecture, and delightful squares where you can enjoy a meal or a glass of wine.

Virtually everything is within walking distance. And Arles hotels and restaurants provide great value for money.

The only real challenges you’re likely to encounter are driving and parking. The charming old town has ancient walls, cobbled squares, gurgling fountains, and narrow streets, many of which have restricted traffic. You’ll appreciate it as a pedestrian, but as a driver – not so much.

Our Garmin GPS, which was a blessing almost everywhere else we went, was of little help in Arles. Pylons blocked access to our hotel, and trying to reach it from the other direction took about 45 minutes.

With that in mind, here are our top travel tips for Arles France:

1) Confirm parking with your hotel in advance, and get precise directions to the hotel from wherever you’ll be coming from. If your hotel doesn’t have parking, ask them to provide you with directions to the nearest parking facility. We were there on a bank holiday weekend, and all the free spots were taken. But there was plenty of parking in the public garage near the post office on Boulevard des Lices. If your hotel is not far, you can walk from there, or take a cab.

2) If you’ll be in Arles in summer or over a holiday period, make dinner reservations. Many of the best restaurants in Arles are small, with fewer than 20 tables. And they basically have one seating. At the places where we dined, we were the last people seated – at 8PM. Everyone else was turned away.

Arles Market

3) If possible, plan to be in Arles on Saturday, when the biggest, best market in Provence takes place on both sides of Boulevard del Lices. Hundreds of stalls sell everything from foie gras to flashlights. With fruits, vegetables, cheeses, charcuterie, pastries, seafood, breads, rotisserie chickens, paella, and wine, it’s a great place to pick up supplies for a picnic. And it also has some of the best and most affordable souvenir shopping in Provence. You’ll find Provencal linens, spices, soaps, olive-wood kitchen wares, olive oil, and lavender sachets. There’s a flea market further down the boulevard and a small brocante market with collectibles.

St. Trophime Cloisters

4) Walk to Les Alyscamps, the ancient Roman cemetery that was painted by both van Gogh and Cezanne. It’s only about ten minutes from the heart of town, and it’s very atmospheric. Ancient tombs and plane trees line the long alley that leads to a medieval church.

5) Visit the cloisters of Saint-Trophime. Although the church is best known for it’s splendid portal, the adjoining cloisters are some of the loveliest in the area.

6) Watch the world go by from a table on the Place du Forum. Both the Hotel Nord Pinus and the Hotel du Forum are on the Place, and half a dozen sidewalk cafes compete for your patronage. Order a pichet of local rosé, and admire the same plane trees – or starry skies – that inspired van Gogh.

7) Learn a little French. We found the people in Arles to be friendly, outgoing, and helpful. But English isn’t as widely spoken here as it is in cities or the French Riviera. We actually ended up speaking quite a bit of French here.

Tips for driving in France.

Trip — Sun, 30 May 2010 20:28:31 +0000

Avignon

We’ve just finished two weeks of driving around the South of France, and for the most part, it was a very pleasant experience.

After picking up our rental car at the TGV station in Avignon, we visited St.-Remy-de-Provence, Arles, l’Isle sur la Sorgue, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lourmarin, Aix-en-Provence, Cap d’Antibes, Antibes, Juan-les-Pins, Cannes, Sainte-Maxime, Saint-Tropez, and Bormes-les-Mimosas, without any trouble.

Granted, as Southern California drivers, we are used to demanding driving. But only once did we get really frustrated, and that was trying to reach our hotel in the old town of Arles. When we found the street we were supposed to turn down, a pylon blocked our entrance and we didn’t have the passcode to lower it.

We spent the next 45 minutes driving in circles before finding an alternative.

But compared to driving in the white towns of Spain, this was a cake walk, and virtually all our experiences were pleasant. Sure, there were one-lane roads with no shoulders accommodating two-way traffic. And there were some pretty tight squeezes — especially in parking garages.

But as a rule, the roads are quite good and well marked. On the freeways, most other drivers don’t tailgate, use the left lane only for passing, and use their turn signals.

Countless roundabouts keep local traffic moving without the use of stoplights. And we were always able to find parking within reasonable walking distance of where we were going. However, this was May, and we can’t speak for July.

Based on our experiences, here are our driving tips for France:

1) Bring a GPS with European maps. Our Garmin Nuvi was a big help whenever we wanted to go from one town to another. It tends to route you the quickest way, so if you decide to take the scenic route, you may hear “recalculating” quite a bit. But if you do make a wrong turn, it will help you get back on track quickly. And responding to “Enter roundabout and take second exit” is a lot easier than figuring it out as you go along.

Saint Remy

2) Rent a car that you’ll be comfortable in. We reserved a Volkswagen Passat, because it’s similar to what we drive at home. At the rental counter, the agent wanted to know how many people would be in the car. We said “Just the two of us,” and she was surprised because we’d rented “such a big car.” She got us to upgrade to a diesel, which worked out well. It didn’t have the greatest pickup on a steep grade with the AC on, but we only spent 61 euros on a tank of fuel.

3) Buy the collision damage waiver. If you have an American Express card, sign up for their program, which covers you for up to 42 days for one flat fee. For California residents, it’s just $17.95 per rental. It doesn’t cover liability, so check with your auto insurance company to see if they do. Ours didn’t outside of the U.S., but Hertz did. Nothing takes the fear out of driving abroad like knowing that if you get a scuff here or there it won’t be a hassle.

4) Travel with plenty of change. The French tend to hoard their change. In fact, trying to get someone to change a 50 Euro note, which is what you’ll most likely get from an ATM, is like pulling teeth. And whenever you try to make a purchase with a 10 or a 20, the cashier will ask you for exact change. This may seem harmless enough, but you often need change — for tips, toilets, parking, and tolls. And for all those people who insist on exact change.

5) Be prepared for parking challenges. Just because a hotel says on its web site that it has parking doesn’t mean that there will be a park for you – especially if it’s located in the medieval heart of town. Read the fine print, because sometimes they have only a few spaces and they must be reserved in advance. Generally, hotels that don’t have much parking will let you drop off your bags and then direct you to a garage or lot not too far away. In villages, the lots are usually free. In bigger towns, there are parking lots where you buy a ticket from a machine and place it on your dashboard. In parking garages, you must pay the ticket at the collection machine before you exit. You’ll need to insert the validated ticket in order to raise the exit gate.

French Riviera

6) Try to relax. When you approach the toll booth section of the freeway, chances are, you won’t be 100% certain which lane you should be in. Unless you’re fluent in French, you’ll see signs with verbs you’ve never seen before. And you’ll likely come to an intersection where the signs to your destination are pointing both right and left. Don’t worry. If you go the wrong way, you’ll see something you wouldn’t have seen otherwise. Do your homework so you know the rules of the road and are familiar with the traffic signs. Allow some extra time for unexpected delays. Then, just go with the flow.

Although driving in France can sometimes be intimidating, renting a car provides complete freedom, independence and the opportunity for spontaneity. You’ll be able to get off the beaten path, stay at country hotels, and come and go as you please.

Find other French travel tips here.

Wine tasting in Avignon.

Trip — Mon, 17 May 2010 17:52:24 +0000

Palais des Papes

Avignon is one of the most interesting cities in France. In 1309, Pope Clement V disliked all the politics in Rome and decided to move the Papacy to Avignon. A couple of subsequent Popes chose to remain in Avignon, and in 1335, Pope Benedict XII began construction of the Palais des Papes, which dominates the city today.

It’s an imposing place, and surprisingly secular. After the revolution, it was used as a prison and later a barracks, so most of the Papal splendor is long gone. But some of the rooms still have beautiful frescoes. Especially the Chambre du Cerf, which shows the locals hunting, fishing, and trapping birds.

The scale of the rooms is amazing — the ceremonial halls here are the size of cathedrals.

The Avignon Popes enjoyed the good life, and wine was an integral part. They promoted viticulture in the region just north of Avignon and established what would later be called Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which means “new castle of the Pope.”

Today, the wines of the Cote du Rhones AOC range from full-bodied reds to fruity roses. There’s one for every palate. And one of the best places to taste — and buy — wine from the region is in the Palais des Papes.

La Bouteillerie

Like so many of Europe’s great attractions, the Palais des Papes lands all visitors in its gift shop. But this one has a twist. The first stop is a bottle shop, called “La Bouteillerie” where 55 Cotes du Rhone wines are available to sample. Each year, the shop sends requests to more than one thousand wineries along the Routes du Vins and selects the best for the boutique.

You can taste three for 6 euros, and individual wines are available to taste at a price of 2 to 7 euros per glass.

Bottles are the same price as they are at the wineries, so you can pick up a bottle of Chateauneuf-du-Pape red for as little as 19.50 euros.

The gardens above the Cathedral are a great spot for a picnic. You can see the Rhone, the rooftops of the city, and Mont Ventoux in the distance. So grab a bottle, a loaf of bread from the local boulangeie, and some cheese, and head for the hills.

If you don’t have time to visit the wineries north of town, the Palais des Papes is a convenient, affordable place to taste the local wines.
Find more attractions in Provence here.

The best flea markets in Paris.

Trip — Mon, 10 May 2010 17:04:15 +0000

One-of-a-kind finds

The most famous flea market in Paris — and the largest in the world — is Le Marche aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. It’s been going strong since the 1870s when rag merchants who were forced out of town started peddling their wares just outside the city walls.

Located on the outskirts of the city, Saint Ouen is a trek to reach and a big commitment. Take the Metro to Porte de Clignancourt and then take Avenue Michelet past the ring road.

It’s so vast — 17 acres — that it can easily take a full day to explore. On Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays, more than 150,000 bargain hunters, antique collectors, and curious travelers investigate the 2,500 vendors here looking for one-of-a-kind items. What you’ll find ranges from junk or brocante, as it’s known here, to world-class antiques. And the venues run the gamut too. Some dealers set up folding tables. Others sell their wares in delightfully stylish spaces.

You can get a map of the market online or pick up one when you arrive. It’s actually pretty well organized with more than a dozen markets, specializing in furniture, 18th- and 19th-century decorative items, engravings, military items, or the like. The main drag is Rue des rosiers, where the original four markets — Vernaison, Malik, Biron, and Jules Valles are located. Each has its own ambience, and some are quite picturesque with wisteria-draped patios, and charming old architecture. In fact, Saint-Ouen is a Protected Urban Area.

You won’t find many bargains here, but if you’re looking for something unusual, or you collect something, a day here could be very rewarding. There are several restaurants and a couple of always-busy ATMs. Wear comfortable shoes.

If you don’t have time for Saint-Ouen, Paris has other flea markets that are more manageable and more accessible.

Furniture at Saint-Ouen

Not far from the Hotel de Ville, the Village Saint-Paul isn’t exactly a flea market, but it does have more than 200 dealers selling antiques, brocantes, and old knick knacks in a series of connected courtyards. It’s a great place to look for original gifts or housewares from the 1930s to the 50s.

On the south side of Paris, the Marche aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves takes place every weekend. Like Saint-Ouen, it also has many dealers who specialize in books, prints, maps, and furniture. But prices here are a little better and the 300+ vendors expect to bargain. Many flea market fans think de Vanves is the best in Paris. Keep you eye out for Hermes scarves, vintage purses, and old perfume bottles.

Not far from Opera Bastille, there’s a covered and an open-air market at Place d’Aligre. In addition to antiques, vintage clothes, and junk, there’s also fresh produce and North African spices and crafts. So it’s a great destination for cooks as well as collectors. If you don’t pick up lunch at the market, there are lots of cafes in the neighborhood.

Read about the best consignment shops in Paris here.

1) Marche aux Puces des Saint-Ouen
2) Le Village Saint-Paul
3) Marche aux Puces Porte de Vanves
4) Place d’Aligre Market

View Paris flea markets in a larger map

One-of-a-kind finds Image Flickr: h-angele
Furniture at Saint-Ouen Image Flickr: Ted Drake

Walt Disney Studios at Eurodisney Paris.

Trip — Sun, 18 Apr 2010 17:13:05 +0000

Studio entrance

Opened in 2002, ten years after Eurodisney Paris, Walt Disney Studio is adjacent to the Disneyland Paris Resort. It’s a terrific attraction in its own right, so plan to spend two days here – one at Disneyland and one at the studios.

Like Disneyland, which is divided into four “lands,” Walt Disney Studios is divided into four studio lots. The entrance recalls the original Disney studio in California with a replica of the old water tower and studio gates.

At the Front Lot, you’ll walk down Hollywood Boulevard, see the Egyptian Theater, Schwabb’s Drugstore, and more in Disney Studio 1. If this were a working studio, it would be the second largest in Europe.

To the right of the entrance, Animagique shows the history of animation, and brings to life scenes from The Lion King and Pinnochio. To the left, Cinemagique shows the greatest movie moments of all time.

Toon Studio explores the art of animation and even lets guests try their hand at it. Flying Carpets Over Agrabah takes you on a magic carpet ride over the desert, and Cars Quatre Roues Rallye is a fun road rally inspired by the Pixar feature “Cars.”

Studio gates

Crush’s Coaster lets you surf an ocean current through a brilliant coral reef riding in the shell of a sea turtle.

At the Backlot, you can see a live stunt show with motorcycles, jet skis, and cars. And then go aboard the Space Station Mir as it’s bombarded by asteroids in a special-effects show from Armageddon.

Two new highlights of the park are the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror where you’ll plunge down a 13-story elevator shaft, and the Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster, where you’ll go from zero to 60 in three seconds, accompanied by the music of Aerosmith.

Disney Studios Paris Map

In 2009, Mickey’s Magical Party and Playhouse Disney Live on Stage! were added along with Disney’s Stars ‘n’ Cars parade. Toy Story Playland, which will shrink visitors to the size of a toy, is scheduled to open in August, 2010. It will include a music express train, a parachute jump, and a half-pipe ride.

Find hotel information and attractions at Eurodisney Park here.

Studio entrance Flickr Image: Simone Ramella
Studio gates Flickr Image: Simone Ramella

Inexpensive hotels in Paris Part I – St-Germain-des-Pres.

Trip — Mon, 05 Apr 2010 19:44:37 +0000

Café de Flore in Saint-Germain-des-Pres

Paris has exceptional hotels everywhere. But many of the inexpensive hotels in Paris are in neighborhoods that are out of the way. Although the Paris Metro is very convenient, taking it deprives you of one of the great joys of visiting Paris – stumbling across marvelous little hidden treasures as you walk.

For our money, a centrally located hotel is well worth the extra cost. When you stay near the things you want to visit, you don’t have any transportation costs, you don’t waste any time getting from here to there, and you just feel fresher after a nice walk than you do after being on a subway.

St-Germain-des-Pres is a great neighborhood that’s convenient to most Paris attractions and enjoyable on it’s own. Notre Dame, the Louvre, and the Musee d’Orsay are less than 15 minutes on foot. And there are lots of terrific restaurants, stylish boutiques, art galleries, and antique dealers in the neighborhood.

For this article, we’ve chosen hotels with doubles starting at less than €200. While these might not be the most affordable hotels in some destinations, in Paris, they’re a deal. And all of them provide charm, attentive service, and excellent value for money. In fact, you can spend a lot more and get a lot less.

Inexpensive hotels in Saint-Germain.

The mid-century modern decor here may not appeal to everyone, but the Artus Hotel enjoys a delightful Rue de Buci location that’s hard to beat. With a lively market selling food and flowers, charming boutiques, and tempting patisseries, the surrounding streets are some of the most inviting in Paris. The hotel opened in 2006 with 27 rooms, a bar, a café, and a sauna. Rooms have iPod docks, free WiFi access, and Carrara marble bathrooms.

Hotel de Fleurie is in an elegant 18^th-century building in a quiet, residential neighborhood. From the graceful façade to the salon with its columns, antiques, and expensive fabrics, Hotel de Fleurie is attractive and understated. The 29 guest rooms have flat-screen satellite TVs, mini bars, and writing desks. With doubles starting at €135, this is one of the most appealing hotels for the money. It’s exactly what you’d hope to find in a Paris hotel.

The favorite Paris address of Lauren Bacall, the Hotel Duc de St-Simon barely snuck under the price wire with doubles starting at €199. Often compared to the Crillon, it’s a gorgeous hotel with a sophisticated elegance that usually runs three times the price. You enter via a pretty, wisteria-draped courtyard – four of the rooms have terraces that overlook it. The 24 rooms are furnished with antiques and fine art. And the zinc bar in the 17^th-century coal cellar has stone walls and cozy seating – it’s a romantic spot for a pre- or post-dinner drink. Service from the crisply uniformed staff is first rate.

A very old-fashioned little inn, the 20-room Hotel Le St-Gregoire is run by a couple who provide welcoming service and keep everything in the 18^th-century mansion in tip-top shape. Each of the rooms is individually decorated, and some have private terraces. A fireplace takes the edge off in winter, and the patio is inviting in summer. Breakfast is served in the cozy stone cellar.

Just two minutes from the Pont des Arts, the Hotel Prince de Conde has 11 rooms decorated in the Empire style. Located in a 17^th-century mansion, the hotel’s salon and breakfast room have vaulted stone walls and arches. There’s a small library and lounge with a fireplace. Double-glazed windows keep the rooms quiet, and the top-floor suite has a Jacuzzi and views of Saint-Germain-des-Pres church and the Institute of France dome.

With double rooms starting at just €130, Hotel Sainte-Beauve is a real deal. Closer to Montparnasse and the Jardin du Luxembourg, it’s a little farther from most Paris attractions. But the décor, service, and accommodations here are first class. The Georgian parlor has wide sofas, overstuffed chairs, and a pretty fireplace that’s put to work in winter. The 22 stylish rooms were decorated in white and beige by English interior designer David Hicks and they have all the modern conveniences you could want.

Those who want Café de Flore and Aux Deux Magots as their neighborhood watering holes will love the Hotel Verneuil. Also located in a 17^th-century townhouse, it’s steps from art galleries, antique shops, and patisseries. The owner, Sylvie de Lattre, has created an inviting hotel that’s simultaneously traditional and modern. Many of the 26 rooms have exposed beams and marble baths. Guests can have cocktails in a comfy sitting room with a black-and-white tile floor and breakfast in the stone cellar.

Close to the Seine River on rue Jacob, Millesime Hotel is relatively new to the Paris hotel scene. The 21 guest rooms are decorated in the colorful, Provencal style and have WiFi, satellite TV, safes, and mini bars. The top-floor room has an A-frame ceiling. The flower-filled courtyard is a lovely spot for breakfast, which is more elaborate than most. When the weather’s not so nice, you can enjoy it in the cellar of this 17^th-century mansion.

Find tips on how to fine other inexpensive hotels here.

Café de Flore in Saint-Germain-des-Pres Flickr Image: ayustety

1) Artus Hotel
2) Hotel de Fleurie
3) Hotel des Saints-Peres
4) Hotel Duc de St-Simon
5) Hotel le St-Gregoire
6) Hotel Prince de Conde
7) Hotel Saint-Beuve
8) Hotel Verneuil
9) Millesime Hotel

View Inexpensive hotels in Paris in a larger map

Arles France travel guide.

Trip — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:19:55 +0000

St-Trophime

Located in the south of France, Arles is one of the most interesting cities in Provence. It was made the second capital of Rome in 306 AD by Constantine the Great, and it has some of the best preserved Roman sites outside of Italy. Arles is also a must visit for fans of Vincent van Gogh, who did some of his most compelling work here.

Travelers appreciate the charming plaza, sidewalk cafes, good restaurants, and hotels. Plus, if you stay in the historic center of town, you can walk to almost everything.

Arles attractions.

Many of Arles attractions are included in a combination ticket that’s available at the tourist information office. If you plan to visit several museums and attractions, it will save you some money.

* The Museum of Ancient Arles is about a 20 minute walk along the Rhone River from the center of town. It has models that show how the Roman ruins looked in ancient times, some sarcophagi that date back to the Roman Christian era, and jewelry, tools, and other ancient artifacts.
* The Arena was built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. It’s still in use today, and during bull-fighting season, 20 spectators pack the stadium. Climb one of the towers for great views of Arles and the Rhone River.
* The Roman Theatre also dates from the 1st century. Today, it’s used as a concert venue during Festival d’Arles, which takes place each summer. When the weather’s fine, it’s also a nice spot for a picnic lunch.
* St-Trophime is a 12th-century Romanesque church that’s a UNESCO World Heritage site. The carved sculptures on the portal are amazing, and the adjoining cloisters are lovely.
* Modern art lovers should visit Musee Reattu which has 57 drawings by Picasso. The museum is located in the 15th-century priory of the Knights of Malta.
* Arles has a unique culture and you can learn more about it at the Museon Arlaten, which has furniture, dolls, costumes, and other everyday objects,
* Les Alyscamps is an old Roman cemetery that was painted by both van Gogh and Gaughin. It’s a pleasant walk from town, and another good place for a picnic.
* A subterranean gallery dating from 30 B.C., the Cryptoportiques has more artifacts from Roman times. And there are well-preserved 4th-century Roman baths that were part of Constantine’s palace.
* If you’re in Arles on Wednesday or Saturday morning, go to the market. On Saturdays, it’s on Boulevard de Lices. On Wednesdays, it’s on Boulevard Emily Combes.

Place de la Republique

Arles hotels.

Some of the best hotels in Arles are housed in historic buildings, so it’s not hard to find lodgings with character. If you prefer to walk to restaurants and attractions, stay near the Arena.

* The Grand Hotel Nord Pinus has hosted bullfighters and models, artists and rock stars. The location on Place du Forum is terrific, and the Brasserie is a popular spot for a meal. This is a very stylish place. Affordable rooms are small, and nice rooms are expensive.
* L’Hotel Particulier is an 18th-century mansion about a five-minute walk from town. The 13 rooms here are beautifully decorated and have polished wood floors and exposed beams. There’s a swimming pool and small spa.
* La Mas de la Chapelle occupies an old priory not far from town. It’s set in private park with tennis, a swimming pool, a 16th-century chapel.
* Hotel d’Arlatan has a pretty terrace courtyard, a swimming pool, and a glass lobby floor that looks down on part of Constantine’s 4th-century palace.
* Hotel du Forum offers good value for money in the historic part of town. Many of the rooms here overlook the Place du Forum or the swimming pool.
* With a garden restaurant, indoor swimming pool, and spa, Hotel Le Calendal has a lot to offer for the money. The location between the arena and the theater is convenient to everything.
* Hotel Jules Cesar has 56 rooms in a former Carmelite convent from the 17th century. There’s a great restaurant and a heated outdoor pool. Rooms are decorated with colorful Provencal fabrics. A very pleasant place to stay, it’s a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group.
* Although it only has two stars, Hotel de l’Amphiteatre makes up for it in charm and service. The building, which originally dates from the 17th century, has some nice architectural details, and the antique furnishings are a perfect fit. The Belevedere Suite offers 360-degree views of Arles.

Arles restaurants.

Arles is surprisingly close to both Spain and Italy, so the cuisine here is as Mediterranean as it is French. In fact, you’re as likely to find gazpacho on the menu as bouillabaisse. Tapas are a great way to try lots of dishes, and of course, the wine is marvelous. Most Arles restaurants are small, so reservations at dinner are a must.

* Speaking of tapas, Pizzeria Ecrin has a good selection, along with pizzas, and salads. Good for lunch after visiting the Amphitheatre.
* L’Affenage has food from all over the Mediterranean. There’s a terrace out front, and an appetizer buffet inside.
* L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel makes the most of the organic veggies grown in the extensive gardens. The restaurant has a Michelin star and commensurate prices. If you’re on a budget, Rabanel’s Le Bistro a Cote nest door is less expensive.
* La Gueule de Loup is a favorite of locals who come for baked lamb, and other Provencal specialties. Several prix fixe menus make it a good value.
* Diners at Lou Marques in the Hotel Jules Cesar can choose between the pretty dining room and the lovely terrace. The wine list and food here are first rate.
* Brin de Thym is a nice, family-run place with good food, warm service, and reasonable prices.

The best bakeries and boulangeries in Paris.

Trip — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 04:47:06 +0000

Baguettes

In America, most bakeries sell both bread and pastries. But in France, the two specialties aren’t always combined. Pastries are sold at pastry shops or patisseries, and bread is sold at bakeries or boulangeries.

Breadmaking is truly an art form here and much attention is paid to the yeast, levain, fermentation time and temperature, etc. Many of France’s best bakers are fourth or fifth generation, and baking is a well-respected craft in France. In fact, the French government confers a special designation – Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) – on the most skilled practitioners.

The test for this honor is a grueling three-day affair, and many choose not to apply. So if you see the MOF sign in the window of a boulangerie, you know the baker is serious about his craft.

Most boulangeries specialize in a certain kind of bread, and it’s helpful to know what it is. If you’re not sure, just ask “Quelle est la specialite de la maison?” to find out.

Without a doubt, the most revered bakery in Paris is Poilane. Established in 1932 by Pierre Poilane, they still use a wood-burning oven that dates from 1789. Pierre’s son Lionel inherited the business, and today, Lionel’s daughter Apollonia oversees it. Best known for their sourdough miche, rye boule, and the butter cookies called Punitions, Poilane now has two locations in Paris, and one in London. Raisin and walnut breads are also available. Inside, note the bread chandelier designed by Salvador Dali.

Moulin de la Vierge was established 30 years ago by Basile Kamir, who believed in making bread the old-fashioned way. He uses organic, stone-ground flour and shapes the loaves by hand, a tradition continued in all four Moulin de la Vierge locations. The loaves are baked in a wood-fired oven and are crusty and golden. In addition to sourdough and country-style bread, they also sell Viennoiseries, which is the French term for breakfast pastries. Try the custard-filled Pain au Raisin. The turn-of-the-century interiors are worth popping in to see.

Du Pains et des Idees

Former fashion-industry executive Christophe Vasseur decided that baking was his true vocation, so he apprenticed to learn the trade, found one of the last-remaining original bakeries in Paris, and opened Du Pain et des Idees in 2002. It takes him seven hours to make a baguette. And the proof’s in the pudding — he won the Gault Millau prize for Best Boulangerie in Paris in 2008. Specialties here include croissants, Boules aux Graines et Cereales, and Mini Paves which have savory fillings that change daily, like spinach and goat cheese or apricots and bleu cheese.

Chewy and tart, the organic sourdough boules at Le Boulanger de Monge are some of the best in town. But baker Dominique Saibron provides his 2,000 daily customers with plenty of choices. Traditional baguettes, ciabata with walnuts or olives, ficelle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds, and small loaves with bacon and Comte cheese. And that’s just the bread. There’s also chocolate tarts, fruit tarts, croissants, buches, and galettes.

Philippe Gosselin in the 1st is the place to go for baguettes. In fact, they have won the Best Baguette in Paris Grand Prix. Monsieur Gosselin is a fourth-generation baker, married to a baker’s daughter. He kneads his baguette dough on low speed for twelve minutes, and then lets it rest for two hours. He adds salt and yeast, kneads again, then lets the dough rest for up to three hours before shaping the loaves by hand. If you’re feeling peckish, order one of the delicious sandwiches. In addition to scrumptious breads, there are cakes, tarts, and macarons.

Poilane

Eric Kayser is a Paris institution, with locations all over the world and 16 shops in Paris. He combines traditional technique with the latest technology to create more than 60 kinds of bread, 50 cakes, and 25 pastries each day. Made using natural leaven and a machine called a Fermentolevain they create truly original combinations like parmesan shortbreads, and ground pepper cakes. His croissants are superb. Grab one of the sandwiches to go and have a picnic in the park.

Not far from the Eiffel Tower, Thierry Dubois’s Pain d’Epis makes baguettes, ficelles, and loaves using a dough made of several kinds of flour. He calls the mixture Royale. His Pain au Raisin is packed with fruit, and his Croissant aux Amandes is light as air. Another specialty here is fougasse, a Provencal flatbread that’s filled with cheeses, vegetables, or fruits.

Read our list of the best Paris patisseries here.

Baguettes Image Flickr: Paris by Mouth
Du Pains et des Idees Image Flickr: Meg Zimbeck
Poilane Image Flickr: bongo vongo

Traveling on French trains.

Trip — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 03:23:29 +0000

TGV 2N at Gare de Lyon

France has one of the most extensive rail networks in the world, and as rule, French trains are convenient, comfortable, and punctual. Traveling by train is a great way to see France because you don’t have to do anything but lean back and enjoy the scenery. And it’s quicker and easier than flying.

You can usually get where you’re going in a matter of hours. And you can make most of your arrangements before you leave home.

If you do a little trip planning in advance, the experience should be painless. Learn a little basic French and familiarize yourself with the signs that you’ll see at the station.

For short trips, reservations aren’t necessary, but you’ll need to make them for long-distance French trains in advance. Most trains can be reserved online or by phone, and you’ll pay a small surcharge for the convenience. You can book through Rail Europe, which has an easy-to-use, English-language site.

You can also make your reservations through SNCF, the French national rail service. But it’s not easy. Because SNCF owns Rail Europe, they try to drive customers there by refusing to mail tickets to the United States or Australia. So if you do buy tickets through www.voyages-sncf.com you’ll need to pick them up at a French train stations.

If you’re American, your credit card probably won’t work at the self-serve kiosks. So you’ll need to wait in line at the ticket counter. Make sure you’re in the right line because there are often different lines for different services.

The SNCF site does sell cheaper promotional fares that aren’t available on Rail Europe. So if saving money is your top priority, start there.

Fares bought on the day of travel are more expensive, so if you buy tickets in advance you’ll save money too. You can usually make reservations 90 days before departure.

If you can’t reserve specific seats on your train, get to the station early, so you can get a good one. Validate your ticket in one of the yellow machines on the platform, or quai, as it’s called in France. If you don’t do it, you could be fined by the conductor.

Even if you’re only taking a few train trips, you should still look into a France Rail Pass. Sometimes a pass will be less expensive than several point-to-point fares, especially if there are two of you traveling together. A variety of passes are available including fares for those under 26 and over 60, and some include a couple of days of car rental.

Bear in mind that reservations are required for TGV and other trains and there’s a charge to make them. So factor that into your calculation when you compare the cost of a Rail Pass.

You’ve probably heard about France’s high-speed train, the Train a Grande Vitesse or TGV. In the past several years, SNCF has expanded their TGV service and today, you can reach most parts of France quickly via TGV. For instance, the journey from Paris to the South of France takes just three hours.

Two types of service are usually available — Premiere or first class and Deuxieme or second class. First class is more comfortable, offers more amenities, and is usually about twice as much as second. On TGVs, first class seats have a fold-down desk big enough for a laptop and a power source. But you’ll need an adaptor to use it because it is the French two-prong kind.

There are several seating configurations. For couples, Club Duo will put you facing each other over a table. Duo will put you side by side. Many of the new TGVs are duplex, or double decker. You’ll get the best views if you sit on the upper deck.

You can stow your luggage above your seat or at the front or back of the car. On some trains, you can rent DVD players, and there’s usually a café car for drinks and light meals. You may want to find out what’s available on your train before you board, so you can take along something to eat if there’s no buffet. In some stations, you can buy madeleines in vending machines on the platform.

Although they’re not as fast as the TGV, Teoz trains travel at 125 miles an hour and serve many places in France. If you prefer a night train, the Lunea trains offer Couchettes for sleeping.

If you want to go to London, the Eurostar goes from Gare du Nord in Paris to St. Pancras Station in London in 2 hours and 15 minutes. Ticket prices vary widely, starting around $115 and topping out around $900.

Read more France travel tips here.

TGV 2N at Gare de Lyon Image Flickr: Matthew Black

Eurodisney Paris hotels and attractions.

Trip — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 18:29:08 +0000

Le Chateau at Disneyland Paris

Based on all the backlash when it opened back in 1992, you’d think Eurodisney Paris would have closed down by now. But rechristened as Disneyland Paris Resort, it’s the top attraction in France, pulling in 50 million visitors a year. And they’re not all American either – 40% of them are from France.

The nearly 5,000-acre park is larger than the Disneyland in California, and almost one-fifth as large as the city of Paris. It’s manicured to perfection with sparking fountains, beautiful plantings, and pretty plazas.

Located in the suburb of Marne-la-Vallee, it’s about a 45-minute train ride from Paris. The RER commuter express will drop you within walking distance, and trains run every 15 minutes or so. You can also take a shuttle bus from the airports or as part of a package.

As in the United States, admission is not cheap, but multi-day and park-hopper passes offer some savings. If you’re visiting between June and September, using Fast Pass will reduce the amount of time you spend in lines.

The entertainment complex of the park is Disney Village, which has ten restaurants, several bars and dance clubs, shops, a 15-screen multiplex and an IMAX 3-D theater. Admission to the Village is free although some of the bars have cover charges.

Walt Disney Studios

Disney characters, many of whom are multi lingual, are on hand to entertain the kids, and the dungeon of Sleeping Beauty’s Castle produces a dragon that’s guaranteed to scare the pants off them. And there are frequent parades and stage shows for kids of all ages.

Like its American counterparts, Disneyland Paris has Main Street USA, Frontierland, Adventureland, Fantasyland, and Discoveryland. A train circles the perimeter, making it easier to get to your favorite attractions. They’re all here – Pirates of the Caribbean, Big Thunder Mountain, Indiana Jones and the Temple of Peril, and Space Mountain Mission 2, plus new attractions like Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast.

Walt Disney Studios, which opened in 2002, provide an up-close look at modern moviemaking, with an emphasis on animation. There’s a huge sound studio filled with props, a television studio, special effects displays, and a live stunt show. Trying to do both the Eurodisney and the studio in a single day is way too ambitious.

Eurodisney Paris hotels.

Toy Story

There are seven Disney hotels in the park. Although Disney offers accommodations in all price ranges, they are slightly more expensive than non-Disney properties in the area.

The most luxurious is the Disneyland Hotel, modeled after an old, albeit huge, Victorian mansion. It’s rated 4 Star de Luxe by the French Tourist Board and is located at the entrance to the park. If you want to be able to just stroll on over to the park, this is the place.

The 1,093-room Newport Bay hotel is the largest in France. Overlooking a man-made lake, it looks like a 19th-century New England resort. Disney’s Hotel New York is Art Deco in design. Sequoia Lodge has lots of wood and slate, and Cheyenne and Santa Fe are the least expensive Disney Hotels. All of them are a five-minute, free shuttle ride from the park.

Most of the major French chains have hotels within a few miles of the park, and most offer free shuttles. The Radisson Blu is on the Disneyland Golf Course. And the Dream Castle Hotel Disneyland is a 4-star hotel designed to resemble a 17th-century chateau.

Find more things to do in Paris here.

Le Chateau at Disneyland Paris Image Flickr: tipoyock
Walt Disney Studios Image Flickr: coconut wireless
Toy Story Image Flickr: Wolfgang Jung

Hunting for bargains in Paris consignment shops.

Trip — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 18:32:25 +0000

Free “P” Star in the Marais
Shopping in Paris is a mixed blessing. On the one hand, you’ll find beautiful, amazing things you will treasure forever. On the other hand, the prices can be so high that they take the fun right out of it.

No wonder Parisians coined the term “leche-vitrine,” which loosely translated means “window licking.”

But if you have your heart set on coming home with a piece of Parisian haute couture, there are ways to do it without breaking the bank.

Fashion-forward Parisians won’t wear the same designer outfit more than once. And they certainly won’t wear something from last year’s collection this year. Instead, they’ll take their unwanted items to a “depots-vente,” which is a high-end consignment shop that specializes in designer clothes.

Because the clothes in most of these shops are nearly perfect, they’re not cheap. Even at 50% off retail – or more – they’re still an investment. And most of the best consignment stores are a little out of the way for the average tourist. But if you know couture and are willing to make the trek, you can score some serious bargains – a Chanel suite for €1000 or a Hermes scarf for €150.

Here are some of the best consignments shops in Paris for high fashion bargains:
Vintage clothes

1)    Reciproque is the oldest (founded in 1978), biggest, and best-known consignment shop in Paris. In addition to clothes, there’s tableware, artwork, and furniture. It’s actually made up of seven boutiques, and as consignment stores go, it’s pretty well organized. As a rule, people either love Reciproque or hate it. They’re at 88 and 95 rue de la Pompe in the 16th.

2)    Fan-Fan’s Depot Vente has friendlier owners than some places.   If you have something in mind – perhaps Hermes, Vuitton, or Dior – they can help you find it. There aren’t a lot of small sizes here, but there are usually nice belts, handbags, and accessories. They’re on rue Mayet.

3)    Conveniently located in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Depot Vente de Buci-Bourbon is worth spending some time in. There are actually two shops – one specializing in classic vintage couture and one selling Gaultier, Yamamoto, and other trend setters. The address is 6 rue le Bourbon-le-Chateau

4)    Located in the 14th, Priscilla has very good prices on classics from designers like Max Mara, Kenzo, Yves Saint Laurent, Sonya Riekel, and Christian Dior. You’ll find Priscilla at 4 rue Mouton-Duvernet.

5)    Le Jupon Rouge features fun clothes by up-and-coming designers. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a blouse by Agnes B or Ungaro, or shoes from Stephane Kelian or Repetto. It’s at 9 rue de Rochechouart (in the 9th).

6)    Griff-Troc often has just what you’re looking for – Valentino, Dolce & Gabbano, Dior, Chloe, and Hermes at prices that are good, but not exactly a steal. They’re at 119 Boulevard Malesherbes (in the 17th).

7)    If you’re staying in the Marais, you’ll want to check out Odetta at 76 rue des Tournelles. It’s open on Sundays, which is rare.

8)    Another Marais boutique, Alternatives stocks clothes worn by models for photo shoots, so they’re hardly worn, but pretty small. Look for Prada and Miu Miu. It’s at 18 rue de Roi de Sicile.

9)    Free “P” Star is a vintage shop favored by Sofia Coppola and Kirsten Dunst who shopped here during the filming of Marie Antoinette. Prices are very good and their stock turns over quickly. 8 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie

10) If you’re willing to travel, Vallee Village is about 30 minutes from Paris by rail. It’s an up-market outlet mall with 90 luxury ready-to-wear boutiques including Agnes B, Armani, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Kenzo, and Versace. You can also take the Cityrama shuttle bus from Place des Pyramids each morning.

1) Reciproque
2) Fan-Fan’s Depot-Vente
3) Depot Vente de Buci-Bourbon
4) Priscilla
5) Le Jupon Rouge
6) Griff-Troc
7) Odetta
8) Alternatives
9) Free “P” Star

View Paris consignment shops in a larger map

Find more Pairs travel tips here.

Free “P” Star in the Marais Image Flickr: nozomiiqel
Vintage clothes Image Flickr: Elsewhere Artist Collaborative

Paris’s best pastries — a guide to the top patisseries.

Trip — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 04:52:28 +0000

Pierre Herme
Pastries are one of the best parts of visiting Paris. If you’ve never had French pastries fresh from a patisserie, you have no idea what you’re missing. Although some of the best patisseries in Paris will now ship their goodies, nothing can compare with going into one of these beautiful shops and selecting the perfect sweet yourself.

Our favorite Parisian pastry is the macaron. Nothing like coconut macaroons, macarons are sandwich cookies made with almond-flour meringue. The version eaten today was invented by Laduree, who introduces one new flavor each year.

With a light, outer shell that gives way to a smooth, chewy center, macarons are indescribably delicious. Another treat made with almond flour is the financier. Technically not a pastry, a financier is a teacake, similar to madeleines, which come from Lorraine.

Where to find the best pastries.

In business since 1802, today Dalloyau employs 100 pastry chefs in 31 shops. The specialty here is the eponymous Dalloyau, a light, praline cake filled with almond meringue. With layers of almond biscuit, butter cream, chocolate, and coffee, the Opera is another must-try selection. Dalloyau also has tea rooms where you can have lunch or afternoon tea.

Pierre Herme wrote the book on macarons. Literally. A fourth-generation Alsatian baker, he apprenticed with Gaston Lenotre at 14, went on to work at Fauchon, and opened his own shop in 1998 in Tokyo. Each year, he introduces a new collection with exotic flavors like olive oil, litchi-rose, jasmine, and passion fruit and chocolate. Try caramel and fleur de sel. In addition to macarons, Pierre Herme creates chocolate confections — including incredible truffles — cakes, nougats, and cookies.

Gerard Mulot is best known for his shop on rue de Seine in Saint-Germain, but he also has a shop in the Marais, a block from the Places des Vosges. The macarons are wonderful, but so are the raspberry tarts, caramel mousse, small cakes, and chocolate fondant. The chocolates are divine, as are the croissants and brioches, both of which come in a variety of flavors. Stop in at lunch for a croque monsieur, salmon torte, quiche Lorraine, or sandwich on one of their delicious baguettes.

If you’re in the 7th arrondissement in the morning, Jean Millet is a great place to pick up breakfast. He makes the best pain au chocolat in Paris — flaky, and buttery, with an intense chocolate center. If chocolate doesn’t strike your fancy, try crepe Suzette, palmiers, beignets (like in New Orleans, only better), or cannelle. Get some financiers or madeleines for later.
Laduree Macarons

Opened in 1862, Laduree is famous for their macarons. For fall 2009, the flavor was Fig and Date. But we’re partial to blackcurrent violet. Who can resist pastries like almond sponge cake with pistachio cream, raspberries and caramelized meringue or caramelized puff pastry, praline cream, almond pralines, and crispy hazelnuts? In the tea room, you can order anything from a smoked salmon éclair to a spider crab floating island or roasted saddle of lamb. Laduree Le Bar on the Champs-Elysees serves a more ambitious menu and designer cocktails.

Place de la Madeleine is a must-visit for food lovers. Some of the most exclusive food purveyors in France are on the square or within a block or two. The most famous of these is Fauchon, which is not just a patisserie but actually three stores in one — a patisserie, a deli, and a grocery selling delicacies from all over the world. If you want foie gras with citrus fruits or truffle juice, this is the place. There’s also a tea room and restaurant. They’re famous for their melt-in-your-mouth madeleines.

Opened in 1730 by the pastry chef to Louis XV, Stohrer is the oldest continually operating patisserie in Paris. They’re best known for inventing Baba au Rhum, a brioche that’s soaked with rum syrup. But the Ali Baba with a rum-raisin, cream filling goes the plain Baba one better. The lovely 19th-century murals on the ceilings and wall panels were painted by Paul Baudry who decorated the Grand Foyer of the Opera Garnier. Figaro newspaper recently rated Stohrer’s eclair as the best in Paris.

View Paris Pastries in a larger map

1) Dalloyau
2) Pierre Herme
3) Gerard Mulot
4) Jean Millet
5) Laduree
6) Fauchon
7) Stohrer

Read more France food tips here.

Pierre Herme Image Flickr: roboppy
Laduree Macaroons Image Flickr: UggBoy ( have fun doing it )

Juan-les-Pins hotels and inns.

Trip — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 04:08:54 +0000

Juan Les Pins Beach

Located between Cannes and Nice on the French Riviera, Juan-les-Pins (Juan of the pines) was first developed in the 1920s. By the 1930s, trend-setters like F. Scott Fitzgerald put Juan-les-Pins on the map, and today, it attracts pretty much everyone.

The golden-sand beach is one of the best on the Riviera. And if you base yourself here, you’ll find it easy to reach all the attractions of the Cote d’Azur. Antibes and it’s museum are within walking distance. It’s packed during the Cannes Film Festival, so book well in advance.

Luxury Juan-les-Pins hotels.

A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group, Hotel Juana was a favorite of F. Scott Fitzgerald. It’s a listed historic monument, and a 2004 renovation recaptured some of its jazz era, Art Deco panache.

It’s on the edge of a shady pine forest, but guests have access to a beach club with changing room where they can rent umbrellas and chairs. Those who prefer a pool will enjoy the heated white marble pool at the property. There’s also a Turkish bath and fitness center. And the staff can arrange golf, diving, deep-sea fishing, tennis, or other activities.

The 45 rooms have large marble or tile baths, mahogany furnishings, WiFi Internet access, safes, and mini bars. If you can afford a room with a balcony, you’ll have views of the sea and nearby Lerins Islands. The restaurant at the Juana is one of the best in town.

Another Small Luxury Hotel, Hotel des Belle-Rives was once a private villa that hosted F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald. In the ensuing years, notables from Josephine Baker to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor also stayed here.

Located right on the beach, it has a beach club with a café, bar, and private dock. Twenty seven of the forty three rooms have panoramic ocean views. All have marble bathrooms and double-paned windows.

Hotel Juana and Hotel des Belle-Rives are two of the best hotels in Juan-les-Pins. You can’t really go wrong with either one.

About a five-minute walk from the beach, Hotel Saint Valerie has 36 air-conditioned rooms with WiFi, satellite TV, and mini bars. Those that overlook the swimming pool or garden terrace are especially nice. A member of the Chateaux & Hotels de France group, it’s a romantic spot.

Affordable Juan-les-Pins hotels.

If you’re on a budget, Hotel Le Pre Catalan offers a lot of charm for the money. In a villa built around 1900 in a residential part of town, it’s surrounded by terraces and gardens of palms, citrus, and flowers. There’s a heated pool and Jacuzzi, a bar, and WiFi Internet access.

The 24 air-conditioned rooms come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some have kitchenettes, and the nicest ones have terraces. Hotel Le Pre Catalan offers the real flavor of Provence near to, but away from the noise of, Juan-les-Pins’ bustle.

Hotel des Mimosas is a 34-room hotel in a villa that dates from the 1870s. Its hill-top, garden setting is extremely attractive, and it’s only about ten-minutes’ walk from a nice beach. Four of the rooms have balconies and nine have terraces. If you can, get one of these. The pool, which is surrounded by palms, is very popular with guests, who make reservations months in advance for summer.

Because of its reasonable prices and charming ambience, Hotel des Mimosas is a very popular Juan-les-Pins hotel.

1) Hotel Juana
2) Hotel Belles Rives
3) Hotel Sainte Valerie
4) Hotel le Pre Catalan
5) Hotel des Mimosas

View Juan-les-Pins hotels in a larger map

Find more hotels in the South of France here.

Juan-Les_Pins beach image Flickr: cjnzja

Trip planning tips for dining like a native in France.

Trip — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 01:29:34 +0000

Restaurant on the ile Saint-Louis
Dining out is one of the great pleasures of traveling in France. But Americans are often befuddled or irritated by what they consider to be bad service or rude treatment.

With a better understanding of French culture and more realistic expectations, these problems can usually be avoided. So be sure to do a little trip planning in advance. It will help you feel more relaxed and more confident when you dine in French restaurants – which also aids in digestion.

Before you arrive at the restaurant.

Americans love to eat and run. If we’re not having lunch in the car, we’re eating dinner on the couch in front of the TV. To Americans, dinner and a movie is a single thought.

To the French, dinner is what you do in the evening. It lasts for hours, and it’s not something you hurry through in order to get to something else. So don’t go out to dinner if you don’t have enough time for dinner.

Arriving at a restaurant at 7:30PM when you have to be somewhere at 9:00PM or even 9:30PM, is just asking for trouble. Don’t think that you can just tell the waiter in your fractured French that you’re in a hurry. It won’t make any difference, and you’ll end up very unhappy.

You’ll receive better treatment if you make reservations in advance. If you’re intimidated by speaking French over the phone, have your concierge make the reservations for you. Or stop by if they’re open for lunch and do it in person.
A Boulangerie in the Marais

Unless you want to be the only ones in the restaurant, or surrounded by other Americans, make your dinner reservations for 8:30 or later.

Do dress appropriately. Yes, after wandering the streets of Paris all day, your feet will be tired. But suck it up and wear real shoes to dinner. And change out of your jeans. The better dressed you are, the better you’ll be treated.

And learn at least a few phrases in French.

At the restaurant.

When you come in, wait politely for someone to come to you. Say “bonsoir,” and address that person as “madame,” “monsieur,” or “mademoiselle.” If you have a reservation, tell them your name. And thank them for showing you to your table. Be as polite as you know how to be. And turn off your cell phone.

If you like water with your meal, order a carafe of tap water (un carafe d’eau). It’s free and perfectly acceptable. If you prefer bottled water, order it. But don’t do it to impress anyone. It’ wont.

Don’t order a soft drink unless you enjoy abuse. And don’t order coffee with your meal. Coffee is taken after dinner, and that means after, not with, dessert. House wine (vin de maison) is usually pretty good. If you want something better, ask your waiter to recommend something. As a rule, it’s not necessary to spend a lot to get very good wine. So don’t choose your wine from the right side of the menu.

Do NOT use your hand sanitizer at the table. And try not to leave the table during the meal. It’s considered rude. If the people at the next table can hear your conversation, you’re talking too loudly. And don’t ask to split dishes, or even worse, take something home. The chef has served you his creation at its absolute best. He doesn’t want you eating it tomorrow cold from a carton.

Do expect to be ignored. This is a sign of respect. Think of it this way – the servants at Buckingham Palace don’t stare at the Queen while she eats. They pretend to be invisible. Your server will do this too. If you need to get his attention, try to do so discretely. And whatever you do, don’t say “garcon.”

To the French, rushing you through your meal would be the height of rudeness. The longer it takes them to clear your first course, the more time they’re giving you to enjoy it.

After dinner.

Floating restaurant on the Seine

This is where Americans start to get antsy. Once dessert has come and gone, we’re done. But not the French. They order coffee and a Brandy and settle in for the night.

Once you’re ready for the check — chances are very good that you will not receive it without asking for it — tell your waiter “l’addition, s’il vous plait.” If he’s across the room, make the international “I’m writing in mid-air gesture.”

In France, tax and tip are automatically included in the bill. But it’s customary to leave a 10 to 15% tip in cash. Euros, not dollars. Thank your waiter and anyone else you encountered, and bid them “Bonne nuit.”

Hopefully, these trip planning tips will help you understand the French point of view and feel more comfortable dining in France.

Read more articles about travel in France here.

Eze hotels, restaurants, and attractions.

Trip — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 03:56:56 +0000

Eze to Cap-Ferrat
Just seven miles from Nice, Eze was built in the 9th century. The spectacular hill-top location which made it an ideal defensive strong-hold in those days, makes it an ideal vacation retreat today. The views of the Cote d’Azur from here are breathtaking.

If you don’t have a car, there’s both train and bus service from Nice to Eze. Cars aren’t allowed into the village, so if you do drive, you’ll need to park in the lot outside the town gates and walk in. If you take the train, which takes 20 from Nice, you’ll then take the shuttle from the train station up to the village.

With its medieval stone buildings, narrow lanes, beautiful tropical vegetation, and killer views, Eze Village is one of the most appealing towns in the Riviera. And it’s leafy squares, sparkling fountains, artists’ studios, boutiques, and galleries invite you to linger a while.

It’s wonderful to stay here, because you’ll have the village to yourself after the tourists have left. But you’ll need to either be well-off or foresighted. The affordable Eze hotel is booked way in advance.

Eze attractions.

There aren’t a lot of things to do in Eze, but there are a few interesting diversions. In order to avoid tour groups, it’s best to arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

The Botanical Gardens are located above the village in the ruined ramparts of a 12th-century castle. There are more than 400 species of exotic plants here, as well as 360-views of the coast from the terrace. There’s a café serving light lunches if you get hungry.

Architecture buffs will enjoy the church of Notre Dame, which dates from 1772. And of course, the shopping in Eze is great. Provencal fabrics, objects made from olive wood, fresh herbs, lavender sachets, and soaps all make good souvenirs.

If you’re feeling ambitious and want some exercise, there are several trails in the area. You can hike up the trail to Mont Bastide or down the Nietzche pathway through groves of pine and olive trees to the spot where he finished Thus Spoke Zarathustra.
Chateau Eza

Eze hotels.

Chateau Eza truly is fit for royalty. The chateau was once the home of Prince William of Sweden. When you first enter the village of Eze, you’ll see two donkeys, which serve as the hotel’s porters. Perched on a 3,000-foot cliff that overlooks St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, the hotel is located in a group of restored 13th-century buildings. Most of the ten rooms have private entrances off the winding, cobbled street, and they are intermingled with charming, cave-like boutiques. The rooms are furnished with fine rugs and tapestries, fine art, canopy beds, fireplaces, and balconies with to-die-for views. If you can’t afford to stay, you can enjoy the view by having a cocktail on the terrace. The restaurant has a Michelin star. Chateau Eza is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group. It’s closed from October through March.

Eze has the good fortune of having not one, but two world-class hotels. The second, Hostellerie du Chateau de la Chevre d’Or, is like a medieval village of its own, though part of it was actually built in the 1920s. Many of the 32 rooms and suites are located in small stone houses that are built into the cliffs. With stone walls, arched windows, wood beams, and fireplaces, they transport you to another era. There are three restaurants, running the gamut from marginally affordable to astronomical, a cliff-side swimming pool, tennis, and a fitness room. As a member of the Relais & Chateaux chain, Chateau de la Chevre d’Or offers impeccable service.

One of the most affordable hotels in Eze, La Bastide aux Camelias is a three-room bed and breakfast located in the park that borders the Grande Corniche. Rooms here are nicely decorated. But the real draw is the veranda where you can have your breakfast or an afternoon cocktail, and the swimming pool. There’s also a spa and Jacuzzi, and free parking.
Eze France

Eze restaurants.

The best known restaurant in Eze, Le Troubadour has been a popular spot since the 1950s, when it was discovered by movie stars, artists, and race car drivers. The three dining rooms in the old house have open beams and creaky floors. The prix fixe menu is a good value and may include braised rabbit, squab, scallops, or John Dory. Reservations are essential.

If Le Troubadour is booked up, Loumiri is a good alternative. Near the entrance to the village, it offers Provencal classics, affordable wines, and great value for money.

Read more articles about France here.

Eze to Cap-Ferrat image Flickr: wit
Chateau Eza image Flickr: ZeHawk
Eze image Flickr: Johny hanging head down from the tree

Top ten trip planning tips for Paris.

Trip — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 17:29:08 +0000

Eiffel Tower
We adore Paris. Who doesn’t? And the great thing about going often is that once you’ve crossed all the major attractions off your must-see list, you can relax and discover all sorts of wonderful treats you may have missed while you high tailed it from the Musee d’Orsay to the Louvre.

Over the years, we’ve discovered many trip planning ideas to make your next Paris vacation more rewarding – whether it’s your first visit, or your fortieth.

Here are our top ten tips for enjoying Paris like a local:

1) If you want to use the Velib free bicycle system, bring an American Express card. Most European countries have switched to chip-and-PIN credit cards, also known as Smart Cards. Your U.S.-issued Visa or Mastercard probably won’t work in the Velib kiosks, which is really irritating if you planned on getting around the city by bicycle. Your magnetic stripe card will still work with most card readers, though the person waiting on you in a store or restaurant may not know it. Ask them politely to swipe your card and follow the instructions on the terminal. Your card probably won’t work at kiosks for train tickets, etc. and you’ll have to wait in line for service.

2) Wouldn’t it be great if you had cool, foodie friends who lived in Paris and were having you for dinner at their place. Hidden Kitchen is the next best thing. If you’re lucky enough to score reservations, you can enjoy a 10-course tasting menu with wine pairings at the home of food consultants Laura and Braden. Dinners are served on Saturday and Sunday nights. The menu is finalized on the day of the dinner, depending on what’s best at the market. But past menus have included roasted sea bass, crispy pork belly, or skillet-fried polenta with braised wild mushrooms. Visit www.hkmenus.com for more info.

Pages Jaunes

3) When you know where you’ll be staying in Paris, it’s helpful to find restaurants, shops, and other services nearby. One of the handiest and most comprehensive sources of information is the Paris Yellow Pages, or Pages Jaunes. Although the site is in French, it’s pretty easy to figure out, and you should be brushing up on your French anyway. Just enter what you’re looking for, such as restaurants, and then enter the address of your hotel. You’ll get a list and an accompanying map. But that’s just the start. Click on “vue aerienne” and you’ll see the establishment from the air. To see it from street level, click “Photo.” You can also get detailed maps and directions in the “Itineraire” section. It’s a great tool for getting your bearings before you leave home. Make http://www.pagesjaunes.fr part of your trip planning strategy.

4) Speaking of places to stay in Paris, why not opt for something completely different and stay aboard a beautifully restored 1916 Dutch barge. Bateau Simpatico is moored on Quai Suffren right beneath the Eiffel Tower. Owner Bob Abrams rents the barge by the week to lucky travelers who enjoy the best of both worlds — being right in the heart of Paris, yet having their own little slice of heaven floating on the Seine. The barge has a fully outfitted kitchen, a washing machine, and everything you need for a perfect week in Paris. Pick up some wine and cheese at the market, the relax up on deck and watch the sightseeing boats go by. When you turn in for the night, you’ll be gently rocked to sleep. Visit http://www.quai48parisvacation.com for more information.

5) When we lay out our travel wardrobe, black features prominently. It goes with virtually everything, doesn’t show stains or wrinkles, and won’t get dirty the first time you wear it – unless you take a stroll through the gardens of Paris. Most of Paris’s garden paths, and the ones that run parallel to the Champs Elysees aren’t paved. And they’re very dusty. A quick stroll down one of these romantic lanes will completely trash the black slacks you planned to wear to dinner. Be advised, and wear khaki instead.

Fouquet’s Jewelry Store in the Musee Carnavalet

6) There are plenty of places in Paris to see Art Nouveau — the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Maxime’s Art Nouveau Museum, and the Abbesses Metro Station. But our favorite is Fouquet’s Jewelry Store in the Musee Carnavalet. Designed by Alphonse Mucha in 1900, the shop was dismantled , painstakingly moved, and reassembled at the museum. Filled with gorgeous, undulating stained glass, woodwork, tile, and mosaics, it’s one of the most beautiful rooms in Paris.

7) Berthillon has long been lauded as the best ice cream in Paris. But our pick is just down the rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile on the Ile Saint Louis. Amorino specializes in ice creams you might find in Rome — zabaglione, hazelnut, amoretto — and it’s every bit as good. If you’re not going to the Ile Saint Louis, don’t despair. There are twelve Amorinos throughout the city.

8) Paris is a city that deserves a fantastic soundtrack. And Radio France FIP supplies it. On any given night, you’ll hear music from the 1930s to the present, from all over the world. Jazz, R&B, Brazilian, Cuban, blues, chill, and classical — everything but advertising. To get inspired, listen online at http://sites.radiofrance.fr/chaines/fip/endirect/index.php while you’re planning your trip.

9) After a week of fabulous French food, we start to crave something with big, bold flavors. And a sloppy, gloppy falafel from L’as du Fallafel in the Marais is just the ticket. The fried, chickpea patties are folded into a pita and topped with hummus, fried eggplant, pickled cabbage, salted cukes, and some not-too-spicy harissa.

10) Taxidermy has never been high on our list of interests — until we went to Deyrolle. Established in 1831, Deyrolle is located on Rue du Bac in the 7th. In addition to stuffed lions, tigers, zebras — there’s even a trotting elephant — there are shells, insects, ostrich eggs, butterflies, and rare minerals. It’s like an incredible, free museum of natural history that you can do in a fraction of the time. Only in Paris.

Read more trip planning articles here.

Read more articles about travel in France here.

Arles hotels and attractions.

Trip — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 02:21:36 +0000

Arles, France
Arles has something for everyone. Well-preserved ancient architecture, a rich artistic heritage, and plenty of charming restaurants and squares.   And Arles hotels make it easy to explore the compact city on foot.

If the surrounding landscape looks familiar, it’s because it’s little changed since van Gogh painted it around 1881. You can see drawings by Picasso, and work by other Provencal artists at the Musee Reattu. And visit Espace van Gogh, the hospital where he was treated.   It now contains a small van Gogh museum.

There’s a colorful market on Wednesdays in Boulevard Emile Combes and Saturdays on Boulevard des Lices. It’s a good place to pick up cheese, wine, and other picnic supplies.

About a 20-minute walk from town, the Ancient History Museum is a good place to get oriented. It will help flesh out your visit to the Roman Amphitheatre. Built in the 1st century, it’s still used for bull fights.

The other Roman sites in Arles are what remains of the Roman Theater, the ancient cemetery known as Les Alyscamp, the Cryptoportiques, and Constantine’s Palace.

St-Trophime is a UNESCO World-Heritage church that dates from the 12th century. The cloisters and Romanesque portal of the church are beautiful.

Two specialties of Arles are Daube, a beef stew made with red wine, and Gardianne, stew with beef and olives.

The best Arles hotels for sightseeing and shopping.

Arles Fountain

For unabashed luxury and pampering, l’Hotel Paticulier is the top Arles hotel. The 18th-century mansion was originally the private residence of a Baron, and consequently it’s small — just 13 rooms. Behind the stately gate, the townhouse surrounds a central courtyard with a small swimming pool. The teak loungers are welcome after a full day of sightseeing. Rooms are in the main house or in the stables. Many have polished wood floors, and beamed ceilings. The rooms in the stables have private terraces.   All have mini bars, safety deposit boxes, Internet access, and luxurious, modern bathrooms. There’s a small spa, a sauna, and a Turkish-style hamman. Although l’Hotel Particulier is only a five-minute walk from Arles’s shops and restaurants, it has a relaxing, country feel.

Walking distance to all of Arles attractions, the Grand Hotel Nord-Pinus is located right on the Place du Forum. It’s a see-and-be-seen kind of place with vibrant public areas and stylish rooms decorated with expensive fabrics and French doors. The hotel has quite a history. Picasso lived here, and Hemingway, John Huston, and Jean Cocteau were frequent guests. Today, the turn-of-the-century townhouse does a good job of balancing old and new. From the wrought-iron balustrade to the dramatic photos by Peter Beard, it’s a stylish place that oozes personality. The cozy bar and first-rate brasserie are popular with locals, as well as guests. Rooms are furnished with antiques, hand-woven rugs, and original art.   The Nord-Pinus isn’t for everyone, but no other Arles hotel can match it’s bravado.
Farmers Market in Arles

Housed in an old 17th-century convent, the Hotel Jules Cesar is one of the most reliable hotels in Arles.   With a heated outdoor swimming pool, lovely gardens, and one of the best restaurants in town, the Jules Cesar has everything you need for an enjoyable stay. As a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group, the service is top notch. The 56 spacious rooms are decorated in the Provencal style with antiques and include amenities like satellite television and mini bars.   Breakfast is served in the old Cloisters and there’s a beautiful Baroque chapel next door which is used for conferences. Rooms in the new addition are less charming than those in the original convent.

Also in an old building — in this case, the 15th-century stone home of the former Arlatan counts — the Hotel d’Arlatan has been managed by the same family since the 1920s. A glass floor in the lobby reveals the ruins of a 4th-century palace built by Constantine.   Rooms are furnished with antiques and local fabrics. Many have stone walls, tile floors, and beamed ceilings. The best overlook the gardens and its fountain, where breakfast is served. The outdoor swimming pool is very refreshing in summer, and there’s a bar. Hotel d’Arlatan has lots of atmosphere and a wonderful location in the heart of the historic part of Arles.

Read more about Arles here. And read about the French Riviera town of Eze here.

Arles image Flickr: Wolfgang Staudt
Arles Farmers Market image Flickr: basykes
Arles Fountain image Flickr: daneen_vol

Nancy France travel guide — hotels, restaurants, and attractions

Trip — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 21:52:14 +0000

L'hôtel-brasserie Excelsior

Nancy is the capital of the province of Lorraine. Unlike neighboring Alsace, Lorraine never fell under Holy Roman or German rule, so it’s completely French.

Once the home of Lorraine’s powerful dukes, Nancy is a beautiful city, noted for its medieval, 18th-century, and Art Nouveau architecture. The heart of the city is Place Stanislas, named for an exiled king of Poland who became the Duke of Lorraine in 1737. The grand, formal square separates the medieval center of town, the Ville Vielle, from the 16th- and 17th-century Ville Neuve. The Place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Enclosed by gilded, wrought-iron gates, the square is flanked by the Hotel de Ville or City Hall, the Musee des Beaux Arts, the Opera-Theatre, and the Grand Hotel. The museum is one of the best places in Nancy to see Art Nouveau glass in the Nancy style. And there’s a good collection of European paintings from the 15th to the 20th century. Delacroix, Rubens, Caravaggio, Monet, and Manet are all represented.

The Nancy Passe Musees provides discounted admission to the museum as well as the Musee de l’Ecole de Nance and the Musee Historique Lorraine. If you’re going to visit more than one of Nancy’s museums, it will save you some money.

During the summer, there’s a sound and light show at Place Stanislas at 10:45PM.

Nancy is one of the best cities in the world for lovers of Art Nouveau. Any visit here should include time at the Musee de l’Ecole de Nancy or Museum of the Nancy School. The art school was founded in 1901 by glass artist Emile Galle. At the beginning of the 20th century, Nancy vied with Paris as the Art Nouveau center of France.

It’s a long walk from Place Stanislas to the museum, but you can get there by city bus if you prefer. Housed in a turn-of-the-century house built for a department store owner, the museum is the only one of its kind in France. It’s an Art Nouveau lover’s dream with jewelry, glassware, fabrics, and furniture designed by Galle, Daum, Majorelle, Pouve, Gruber, and Vallin.

La place Stanislas, Nancy

Majorelle’s villa at 1 rue Louis-Majorelle is another beautiful example of the Nancy Art Nouveau style. It was designed by Henri Sauvage in 1901 for the artist and it has stained glass windows designed by fellow artist Jacques Gruber.

There are several other beautiful Art Nouveau buildings at number 41, 69, and 71 Avenue Foch on the way back to Place Stanislas. The Tourist Information office at Place Stanislas can direct you to lots more examples.

parc de Saurupt

The Musee Historique Lorraine is located in the old ducal palace, which dates from the 13th century. Here, you’ll see medieval and Renaissance sculpture, paintings by Georges de la Tour, and 16th-century tapestries in the ceremonial hall of the dukes.

The best shopping in Nancy is on rue Gambetta and rue des Dominicains. If you’re an antique lover, head to rue Stanislas. Or to enjoy some fresh air, visit La Pepiniere, a 53-acre park that dates from 1765. Quintessentially French, it has a carousel, a rose garden, and a small zoo.

Nancy has several charming cafes off place de la Carriere. Or you can dine in one of Nancy’s beautiful restaurants. L’Excelsior, a beautiful Art Nouveau brasserie, Restaurant le Foy, and Le Capucin Gourmand are all excellent.

There are several lovely Nancy hotels to choose from. Located right on Place Stanislas, the Grand Hotel de la Reine is the best hotel in Nancy. Those looking for something smaller will enjoy Hotel de Guise in a restored 17th- and 18th-century townhouse or Hotel des Prelats in an old Episcopal house not far from the main square. There are also several good business hotels in Nancy.

For more ideas about things to do in Alsace and Lorraine visit Tripaddiction.

Read more articles about France here.

hôtel-brasserie Excelsior and parc de Saurupt Images Flickr: dalbera
Musee Historique Lorraine Image Flickr: dierkschaefer