Orvieto shop

Built on a huge promontory of volcanic tufa stone, Orvieto’s history goes all the way back to the Bronze Age. Romans destroyed the Etruscan city here in the 3rd century BC, and five Popes maintained residences in Orvieto during the 13th century.

Orvieto’s greatest export is its wine. Orvieto Classico is a crisp, white wine that’s appreciated the world over. You can take a tour and taste the wine at Tenuta Le Velette if you make reservations in advance.

Although not as noted for its cooking as Tuscany or Piemonte, Umbria has delicious food, created with a light touch. Top-quality olive oil, fresh herbs, and seasonal ingredients predominate. Black truffles from Norcia, and pork sausages, are enjoyed all over the region. And spit-roasted meats and home-made pastas are found on most menus.

Umbricelli, the local pasta, is like spaghetti, but thicker. It’s often served with a hearty tomato sauce.

Most of the best Orvieto restaurants offer beautiful surroundings, as well as hearty cooking.

One of the oldest places in Orvieto, Le Grotte del Funaro occupies a cave that was carved from the tufa in the 12th century. To sample a little of the best regional dishes, order the mixed (misti) plates. An assortment of bruschette or crostini makes a great starter. And the grilled meats, especially the suckling pig, are moist and delicious. The wine list is exceptional. And if you come for lunch, you’ll enjoy a nice view of the surrounding hills through the windows or from the piazza. Pizza from a wood-fired oven is also available.

Located in the old town on a side street off the Piazza del Popolo, Asino d’Oro offers traditional Umbrian cooking and less conventional dishes like fried guanciale with sage and vinegar, gnudi with chard and goat cheese, or baccala with raisins. Chianina beef and rabbit are available for main courses, and desserts are worth saving room for.

Tipica Trattoria is beneath a 15th-century palazzo, and dining under the 500-year-old arches is part of the appeal here. The chef’s appetizer assortment is a nice way to ease into your meal. Their umbrichelli is sauced with a spicy tomato sauce or during the season, a sauce made with white truffles. Gnocchi is another satisfying first course. Rabbit, lamb, and wild boar are the best main courses. After dinner, don’t be surprised if you’re offered a vin santo or grappa on the house.

Orvieto

In business in one place or another since 1945, La Grotta is still going strong. The owner is a charmer, and serious about his food. He’s been known to take diners into the kitchen for a better look at the provisions. He’s popular with the locals, who come for home-made pasta with duck or chicken giblet sauce, potted guinea hen, or cured boar. Also on the menu are local chick peas, pigeon, lamb, and grilled meats. Zuppa Inglese is a good dessert choice.

Next to the 13th-century Palazzo Comunale, La Palomba is a family-owned trattoria that serves simple, but delicious meals made with local ingredients. Your best bet is to order whatever the house recommends. Start with crostini or bruschetta — when truffles are in season, they’ll grate some over the top. The pastas are excellent, and hearty dishes like pigeon or lamb are perfect on a chilly night. The owner, his wife, and their daughter make their guests feel really welcome. There’s a nice selection of local wine, with several available by the half bottle.

One of the oldest restaurants in Orvieto, Trattoria dell’Orso has long been a favorite in the area. The chef here hails from Abruzzo and his partner is Neapolitan, so you’ll find more tomatoes on the menu. Pasta with scamorza cheese, broccoli, and tomatoes, chicken with olives, and splet soup start things off nicely. Rabbit, lamb, guinea fowl, and chicken alla cacciatore round out the meal. Gabriele and Ciro are delightful hosts.

Read about things to do in Orvieto. Or find Orvieto hotels.

Legend:
1) La Grotte del Funaro
2) Asino d’Oro
3) Tipica Trattoria
4) La Grotta
5) La Palomba
6) Trattoria dell’Orso

View Orvieto Restaurants Map in a larger map

Orvieto restaurant Image Flickr: UmbriaLovers
Orvieto Image Flickr: UmbriaLovers

Golden Gate Bridge

San Francisco has some of America’s top Italian restaurants. Acquarello, Quince, and Incanto have been wowing Bay Area diners with authentic Italian cooking, great wine, and attractive ambience for some time now.

But the competition didn’t keep several new Italian restaurants in San Francisco from opening. Although not exactly filling a void, the newcomers are a welcome addition to the dining scene, and they’ve been warmly received.

Michael Tusk, the owner of Quince, has opened Cotogna in an adjoining space on Jackson Square. The name means quince in Italian. Less formal than its sibling, Cotogna has a three-course, prix fixe for just $24. The brick and beam space features an open kitchen, and it’s a casual, cozy place. Diners can enjoy incredibly succulent meats from the rotisserie, inventive pizzas from the wood-fired oven, or perfect pastas like lamb pappardelle or tagliatelle with duck Bolognese. An innovative, fixed-price wine program offers some lovely selections for $10 a glass or $40 a bottle. If you have any room left, try the milk chocolate and almond budino. At Cotogna, you can get a very good Italian meal without spending a lot.

You’ll find casual, inviting ristobars all over Italy. A cross between a tratorria and a bistro, they offer unpretentious food and good wine in a convivial atmosphere. Gary Rulli’s new Ristobar replicates the successful formula in this new Marina-area Italian Restaurant. One of the best-loved Italian restaurants in Los Angeles, Valentino, lost its chef — Angelo Auriana — to Ristobar. And he’s turned his talent to making incredible pizzas and superb pasta dishes. Start with some fabulous salumi and cheese, much of which is imported from Italy. If you want something more than pizza or pasta, duck confit, osso buco, or pan-roasted quail are terrific options. Rulli’s background as a pastry chef makes dessert a must-have. Try warm hazelnut and walnut budino.

Pizza lovers who have been flocking to Pizzeria Picco in Larkspur can satisfy their cravings in SOMO at Zero Zero. Owner Bruce Hill has brought the thin, perfectly charred crust, the inventive toppings — try home-made salumi — and the Zero Zero Neapolitan flour for which the restaurant is named. But he’s also turning out excellent crudo, starters like fried Brussels Sprouts with Asian pear, gnocchi with pork belly, and skillet-fried chicken thighs. Soft-serve ice cream sundaes with ricotta doughnuts and bacon brittle are a yummy way to end your meal.

With an emphasis on farm-to-table provisions, Seven Hills offers a seasonal menu that makes the most of local ingredients. Chef Alexander Alioto worked in Sicily and in Yountville at The French Laundry. He opened Seven Hills on Nob Hill after leaving the Ritz Carlton, San Francisco. Starters might include seared sweetbread, wild mushrooms, or Niman Ranch pork riblets. A variety of fresh pastas are whipped up each evening. Alioto’s father Nunzio created the amazing wine list.

Find more Italian Restaurants in San Francisco.

Legend:
1) Cotogna
2) Ristobar
3) Zero Zero
4) Seven Hills

View New Italian Restaurants in San Francisco Map in a larger map

Golden Gate Bridge Image Flickr: Salim Virji

Trastevere restaurant

To us, no trip to Rome is complete without having dinner in Trastevere. The name – which means across the Tevere, as the Tiber river is known in Italian – refers to the location. But it’s more a state of mind.

Not that long ago, few tourists ventured here. But today, Trastevere is a popular destination for many visitors to Rome.

If you’re looking for unpretentious Roman food, Trastevere restaurants are a great choice. The neighborhood is charming, and prices in most restaurants are reasonable. Don’t come looking for haute cuisine. But you can expect a fun night out with good food, good wine, and typically Roman surroundings.

Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere is the heart of the neighborhood, and you should stroll down there after dinner for the atmosphere. But you’ll likely have a better meal if you stray a little further afield.

Specializing in Roman food and the cuisine of Naples, Alle Fratte di Trastevere is the place to come for baby octopus, prawns with ginger and thyme, or tagliolini with lobster. But you can also get a good tagliatelle carbonara. The restaurant is decorated with trompe l’oeils frescoes of Roman life. And service is friendly and warm.

When you’re craving pizza, do as the Romans and head for Dar Poeta. Unlike a lot of Roman pizzerias, they make both thick and thin-crust pizzas, and they use a secret flour mix that makes their crust especially good. The owners aren’t content with the usual fare. They cook up pizzas with salmon, zucchini flowers, and swordfish carpaccio in the wood-burning oven. And dessert calzones – filled with Nutella and mascarpone or ricotta – are must haves.

One of the best wine bars in Rome, Ferrara also serves meals as well as tapas-style appetizers in the upstairs bar. The selection of 350 wines is terrific, and dishes like squid with tea-smoked tomatoes and spaghettini with sea urchins keep diners coming back. Housed in a 17th-century convent on Piazza Trilussa, the atmosphere is romantic but hip. For wine lovers, this is one of the most enjoyable restaurants in Rome. There’s some seating on an outdoor patio.

Run by an American chef, Glass Hostaria is located in a building that’s won awards for its modern design, something of a novelty in this neighborhood. Chef Cristina Bowerman has created a menu that features traditional dishes like pigeon and scallops and updated interpretations like white truffle crème brulee. The ingredients she uses are impeccably fresh, and she makes the most of what’s in the market. More than 600 selections of wine are available.

For Tuscan cooking, Il Ciak is the best restaurant in Trastevere. Serving game, dishes rich with mushrooms or truffles, and the superb chianina beef, Il Ciak makes a terrific bistecca alla fiorentina. Pasta takes a backseat here to polenta and roasted vegetables. If you love wine from Tuscany, you’ll be spoiled for choice here. This is one of the best Rome restaurants for Tuscan food.

Rivadestra, which means “right bank,” is similar in feeling to bistros in the Saint-Germain-des-Pres neighborhood in Paris. Pasta with shrimp and beans, tuna fillet with peppers, and beef with escarole are typical dishes.

As the name implies, Spirito di Vino has a great selection of wine, and hearty, traditional cooking in a warm atmosphere. You might start your meal with Roman-style artichokes or soup with salt cod and then move on to farfalle with pumpkin, gorgonzola and pistachio or fettuccine with black truffles. Veal goulash, pork fillet, and tripe are excellent second courses.

Aristocampo

More expensive than most of the restaurants in Trastevere, Alberto Ciarla is in a building that dates from 1890. Come here for fresh seafood and shellfish, which you’ll see on ice when you enter. Spaghettti vongole, sea bass, and pasta with beans and seafood are the stars here. And the fritto misto is wonderful.

At Asinocotto, chef Giuliano Brenna has developed an ambitious menu where you might find quail, smoked sturgeon, or guinea fowl on the menu. With its dark, wooden beams and low lighting, it’s a cozy spot with good service. Start your meal with wild boar terrine or shrimp and bacon on creamed peas.

Several years ago, we were walking down Via della Lungaretta and saw a cute place with a blackboard out front that said “We are against the war and the tourist menu.” Since we’re not fans of either, we figured we’d give Aristocampo a shot, and it was great. Just what you expect of a Roman trattoria – checkered tablecloths and all. There were plenty of Romans enjoying pasta amatriciana, veal loin, and spaghetti with clams. You can dine inside or at one of the tables on the sidewalk. Their Campo di Fiore location has great Panini to go.

Find more restaurants in Rome.

Legend:
1) Alle Fratte di Trastevere
2) Dar Poeta
3) Enoteca Ferrara
4) Glass Hosteria
5) Il Ciak
6) Rivadestra
7) Spirito di Vino
8) Alberto Ciarla
9) Asinocotto
10) Aristocampo

View Trastevere Restaurants Map in a larger map

Trastevere restaurant Image Flickr: Perrimoon
Aristocampo Image Flickr: Donna_Rutherford

Langhe Piedmont

During the 1970s, many Italian farmers couldn’t make ends meet and left their farms to earn a living in the city. The Italian government was concerned about the loss of small farms and the impact on traditional life. So to encourage farmers to hang in there, they created Italy Agriturismo in 1985.

The program provided incentives to restore abandoned rural buildings and make them suitable for overnight guests. Two rules distinguish agriturismi from rural bed and breakfasts. First of all, the property must have fewer than 30 beds, and the majority of income has to come from agriculture.

If you’re unfamiliar with the concept, Italy agritourism gives travelers the opportunity to experience the Italian countryside in peaceful, and often beautiful surrounding. One or more meals is usually included in the rate and they’re prepared with home-grown or local products.

Many agriturismi are anything but rustic, with pools, riding stables, and golf. The hosts are proud of their region and often eager to act as tour guides, concierges, travel advisors, or language teachers.

The Piedmont region of Italy is one of the best for food and wine lovers. With vineyards growing the grapes that are used to make Barolo and Barbaresco wines, white truffles, the world’s best snails, Piemontese cattle, and artisanal cheeses and salumi, Piemonte has some of the best cuisine in Italy. And the scenery is gorgeous.

Wine tasting here is a little different that in the United States, and drop-ins aren’t usually welcome. But most towns have an enoteca that pours all the local wines.

The best Agriturismo Piemonte.

Turin – Torino – is the largest city in the province and the most convenient airport. To make the most of your time here, you’ll need to rent a car. But distances are relatively small and the roads are good.

There are several regions in Piemonte where you can base yourself. The Langhe was so named because the hills rolling through the area look like tongues. It’s lovely, uncrowded, and the restaurants here are very affordable.

Lago di Devero

Monferrato is best known for its main town, Asti, and its main product, Asti Spumante. It’s a great place to shop, especially at the market which takes place on Wednesday and Sunday mornings. The other well-known town in Monferrato is Acqui Terme, where there’s a natural spring.

The most popular area is the Piemonte Lakes. Lake Orta, located to the west of the better-known Lake Maggiore, is a delightful sub-Alpine lake where you can enjoy the beauty with fewer crowds. The town of Santo Giulio is located on a small island and there are lots of cafes overlooking the lake, with the spectacular Alps in the background.

There’s a wide selection of agriturismi in Piedmont to choose from. Some of the best are Cascine del Castello di Bagnolo, Tenuta la Marchesa, Cascina Barac, Villa la Favorita, Cascina Bozzetti, and La Due Cascine.

You can stay in a restored farmhouse, on a dairy farm, at a winery, on the grounds of an old castle, or in a 17th-century villa.

Find more places to visit in Italy.

Langhe Piedmont Image Flickr: stefano@torino
Lago di Devero Image Flickr: rosa-amato

Tagliatelle Carbonara

There are two dishes we always order when we’re in Rome. The first is bucatini al’amatriciana, a robust combination of tomatoes, onions, and bacon. The second is tagliatelle carbonara or tagliatelle alla carbonara – a dish so delicious that to us, it’s perfection on a plate.

The dish is utter simplicity – butter, cheese, eggs, black pepper, and bacon. But almost everything about carbonara is disputed, including the name, its origins, the correct ingredients, and its preparation. The only thing that everyone agrees on is the addictive nature of the dish.

The name is derived from the Latin for charcoal but no one can agree on the exact etymology. Some think that coal workers created the dish with ingredients they could transport and obtain easily. Others believe the dish was so named because it was prepared over a charcoal fire.

Because a recipe for carbonara wasn’t included in Ada Boni’s seminal 1927 book, La Cucina Romana, it’s assumed that the dish must be more recent than that. And many food historians think that carbonara was invented when Americans shared their rations of bacon and powdered eggs with their Roman friends. Whatever it’s origins, when properly made it’s a masterpiece of subtlety and balance in which each ingredient shines simultaneously.

As far as the ingredients go, there’s really no consensus, even in Italy. Any pasta will do, although tagliatelle and spaghetti are the most popular. In some ways, penne is preferable because it’s easier to toss with the sauce.

Many Italian cooks use guanciale, which is made with pig’s jowls, instead of the more common pancetta. But slab bacon is also acceptable. Sometimes, the bacon is rendered in olive oil, and sometimes it’s sautéed in butter.

Pancetta

Onions and garlic may or may not be used. And the liquid used to thin the sauce can either be pasta water, white wine, or chicken stock, which is preferred by Lydia Bastian — no slouch when it comes to Roman food.

It’s important to use the best quality eggs you can find. If you have a local farmer’s market selling free range eggs, you’ll be able to tell the difference. Some cooks separate them, some cooks beat them, and some just break them into the dish.

Taking the sauté pan off the heat when you add the eggs is key in keeping them from scrambling.

Cheese can either be Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano Reggiano, or a mixture of both. Americans often add whipping cream, which Italians eschew.

Since there are so many ways to make carbonara, there’s not much agreement on where to sample the best carbonara in Rome. But Perilli, Roscioli, Nerone, and Danilo are all good bets.

If you‘re not going to Rome, here’s how to make tagliatelle or spaghetti carbonara at home:

· Boil 6 quarts of salted water and cook 1 pound of pasta until al dente

· In the meantime, sauté 4 ounces of diced guanciale and two cloves of crushed garlic in 2 tablespoons of olive oil

· Drain the pasta, reserving ½ cup of pasta water

· Remove the garlic from the pan and add the pasta with about ¼ cup of water

· Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 1-1/4 cups of grated cheese and four eggs

· Toss well to make sure every strand of pasta is coated with the sauce

· Top with copious amount of freshly ground black pepper

· Serve with extra grated cheese

Find more Roman food and wine tips.

Tagliatelle Carbonara Image Flickr: FotoosVanRobin
Pancetta Image Flickr: ChefMattRock

Pierre Herme macarons

Most people who are planning a trip to Paris look forward to taking in the views from the top of the Eiffel Tower, enjoying the Impressionist paintings in the Musee d’Orsay, or cruising down the Seine at night when the city’s monuments are illuminated. All are worthy pursuits that will create indelible travel memories.

But there’s another destination no trip to Paris should be without.

The amount of pleasure you’ll experience there may be unrivaled, even though it’s affordable for almost any traveler. And you’ll likely return again and again.

We’re talking about Pierre Herme, the most celebrated pastry chef in Paris, and his eponymous boutiques.

Herme is a fourth-generation baker from the Alsace region of France. At the tender age of 14, he came to Paris to train with Gaston Lenotre, who is credited with revolutionizing French pastry. At 24, he became the head pastry chef at Fauchon — the most celebrated food store and caterer in Paris.

By 1998, he was ready to branch out on his own, and he and business partner Charles Znaty opened the first Pierre Herme boutique in Toyko. It was an immediate hit. And Herme became a culinary sensation.

He opened his first Paris boutique on Rue Bonaparte in 2001 and opened a second location on Rue de Vaugirard in 2004. About 25 pastry chefs work in shifts in the Vaugirard kitchen, where cakes for both locations are made. Chocolates are created in the Bonaparte kitchen.

In 2007, he was awarded the Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur by Jacques Chirac.

An impressive resume, to be sure, but what’s all the fuss about? To find out, simply bite into one of his divine macarons. If you’ve never had one, they are indescribably delicious. Two light, crisp, almond-flour meringues surround an intense, rich filling. The combination of flavors and textures can be enjoyed in two perfect little bites. Astonishingly simple, yet remarkably complex.

Herme’s real genius is his creativity. While competitors are content producing impeccable chocolate, vanilla, and pistachio macarons, Herme experiments with flavors like passion fruit, rose, litchi, chestnut, apricot, jasmine, olive oil, and green tea. He introduces new flavors all year long, and many are only available seasonally — such as gingerbread in the fall. The line forms around the block to sample the new ones.

Of course, macarons aren’t the only temptations — at around $2.50 each, they’re simply the most affordable and portable. But exquisite cakes, chocolates, jewel-like tarts, cheesecakes, and Napoleons are also irresistible.

To sample Herme’s wares, you’ll have to visit Paris or Tokyo — although he does ship to destinations in Europe. He’s written several books on desserts. But his macaron book is only available in French, and it’s quite expensive to purchase in the United States.

Find other top Paris patisseries.

View Pierre Herme Paris in a larger map

Pierre Herme macarons Image Flickr: betsyweber

Culinary Arts Center on Zuiderdam

In the last few years, cruise ships have really upgraded their restaurants. Noted chefs like Charlie Palmer, Todd English, and Jacques Pepin have created menus, designed kitchens, and worked with the cruise lines to create restaurants that are as appealing as those in cities like London and Lyon.

But that’s not all the cruise lines are doing to attract foodies. Because of the increasing popularity of culinary programs in destinations like Italy and Mexico, several cruise ships are now offering their passengers a wide variety of food and wine experiences.

Wine tastings, cooking demonstrations, lectures from guest chefs, and shore excursions that include visits to wineries, local markets, or cheesemakers are fairly common. And now, a few ships are also offering on-board cooking classes in purpose-built kitchen studios.

Cooking classes on Holland America Line (HAL).

HAL led the way with their Culinary Arts Centers sponsored by Food & Wine magazine. Available fleet wide, these demonstration kitchens feature plasma-TV monitors so passengers can see all the action as top guest chefs prepare some of their most popular dishes. You can also watch from your state room.

Wine tastings and seminars are also held in the theater-style space. Classes are usually specific to the cruise region. In Alaska, students might learn the art of preparing fresh salmon, and jerk dishes are popular on Caribbean cruises.

HAL has a roster of noted chefs, cookbook authors, and wine experts who will conduct classes on upcoming cruises. And the success of this program has inspired other cruise lines to follow suit.

Cooking classes on other cruise lines.

Royal Caribbean International (RCI) has joined forces with Chefmakers Cooking Academy to offer classes on sailings from Port Canaveral on Liberty of the Seas and Freedom of the Seas. The three-hour classes include Quick & Easy Fish, New American Cuisine, and California Cuisine, and range in price from $40 to $125.

Holiday offerings include pumpkin carving, making gingerbread houses, and Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve entertaining. Classes for children are also available.

The biggest news for cruise and food lovers is the 2011 launch of Oceania’s 1,200-passenger vessel, Marina. The state-of-the-art culinary studio – developed in partnership with Bon Appetit – will include 22 cooking stations tricked out with ovens, cooktops, cookware, utensils, and more.

Master Chefs from around the world will teach students how to prepare regional dish. And when possible, students will accompany the chef ashore to tour the market and select the ingredients for the meal they’ll prepare. Groups will shop for sea bass in Amalfi, blood oranges in Taormina, and basil in La Spezia for pesto.

Workshops last from 45 minutes to three hours and cover topics like grilling, chocolate making, or preparing seafood. These are the only true hands-on cooking classes at sea.

Find more cooking classes in Barcelona or Florence.

Culinary Arts Center on Zuiderdam Image Flickr: Josh Friedman Luxury Travel

Racine’s Wine Bar

Perhaps more than any place in the world, Paris is a city with endless possibilities for eating and drinking well. Whether you’re visiting one of the three-star temples of gastronomy, enjoying choucroute garni in an Art Nouveau brasserie, or sampling the cuisine in one of the “baby bistros” on the Left Bank, you’ll never want for a good meal.

But there’s another aspect to Paris dining that many travelers miss, which is a shame, especially for lovers of good wine. Paris has some of the most delightful wine bars in the world. And many of them have excellent food too. The bars that specialize in natural or organic wines often serve artisanal meats, cheeses, and breads from the city’s top suppliers. In fact, some Paris wine bars get their food from the same butchers, boulangeries, and cheese makers as the city’s top chefs.

No matter where you’re staying in Paris, there’s probably a great wine bar within walking distance. Ask your hotel concierge, or try one of these. They’re a great place to mingle with the locals.

1) Racines
Everybody’s favorite Paris wine bar these days, Racines opened in 2007 after Pierre Jancou sold La Cremerie. The location in the lovely 19th-century Passages des Panoramas is delightful, especially on a rainy day when it’s snug as a bug in a rug. Virtually all the wines here are from 15 organic French producers. So come here to taste wine that you won’t likely find anywhere else in town. Excellent cheeses, terrines, charcuterie, and a few daily specials are wonderful accompaniments.

2) Les Fines Gueules
Having trained at La Cagouille, Les Fine Gueules owner Arnaud Bradol knows his fish – and his wine. Housed in a 17th-century stone building near Place des Victoires, Gueules features wines from every region in France. With Poujauran breads and meats from Desnoyer, who is purveyor to some of the best restaurants in Paris, meals here in the beamed dining room are much better than you’d expect. The staff are happy to point you to the perfect bottle or glass.

3) Le Rubis
Located near the high-fashion boutiques of the 1st arrondissement, Le Rubis is an old fashioned spot with everything you’d expect – zinc bar, tobacco-stained walls, and great French wines. Many wines are available by the glass, and there’s an impressive selection of Beaujolais, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Loire Valley wines. Grab one of the burgundy banquettes, order a plate of charcuterie and cheese, and put yourself in owner Albert Prat’s hands.

Oyster night at Le Baron Rouge

4) La Garde Robe
One of the newer entries to the field, La Garde Robe isn’t much bigger than a wardrobe, which is what the name means in French. It’s conveniently located in the 1st, and it’s a good place to rest your feet after touring the Louvre. You’ll find cheese, pates, sausages, and fresh oysters, and plenty of tasty organic or biodynamic wine by the bottle or the glass to wash it down.

5) Alfred
Across from the delightful Palais Royal, Alfred was opened by European Parliament member William Abitbol after he lost his reelection bid in 2004. You may find him serving up hams, terrines, and plates of grilled vegetables in the vaulted stone cellar or in the upstairs dining room, where meals are the equal to of what you’d find in a good bistro. Try savoring your red wine with one of the divine chocolate desserts inspired by Pierre Herme.

6) Cavesteve
In many ways the antithesis of a typical wine bar, Cavesteve is an ultra-modern spot near Place du Trocadero. The 300-label wine shop here is one of the best in Paris and you can buy wines from all over the world, in all price ranges. There are a few tables upstairs and down, and fewer still on the sidewalk. Four or five specials are served each day, but the wine is the real draw here, and at their Bastille location.

7) Le Verre Vole
Open since 2000 near Canal St. Martin and the Place de la Republique, Le Verre Vole specializes in organic and biodynamic wines from Laguedoc, the Rhone, and Loire Valleys. With just six tables, you’ll need to make reservations to indulge in the fresh oysters, andouilettes, Joel Meurdesoif charcuterie, and cheeses from Benoit Bordier. You can enjoy them with anything from the wine shop for a modest corkage fee. Some wines are available by the glass. If you can’t get a table, get a to-go order and head for the canal.

Tasting wine at Le Verre Vole

8) Juvenile’s
Run by a Scotsman, Juvenile’s is the best place for wine from outside France. If you’re looking for a Napa Valley Cabernet, or a Hunter Valley Chardonnay, this is your best bet. Simple tapas such as bruschetta or crostini, raclette, sausages, pates, and cheeses are served. There’s also an excellent selection of sherries. Juvenile’s is popular with English speakers.

9) Le Baron Rouge
More than half the selections at the rustic place in the 12th are from the Languedoc region. It’s close to the Place d’Aligre market so come before or after you shop for spices. In season, fresh oysters are shucked on site and washed down with copious amounts of Chablis. There are lots of wines available by the glass. But since there are only four tables, it’s not the best place for a meal. Come before dinner and be prepared to rub elbows with your neighbors.

10) La Cremerie
Although Pierre Jancou sold it in 2007, this wine bar in a charming 19th-century creamery near Odeon is still popular. In addition to the expected French charcuterie and cheeses, La Cremerie also serves superb meats and cheeses from Italy and Spain. There’s a nice assortment of interesting, natural wines. Ask your server for advice.

Read about enjoying wine in the South of France here.

Racine’s Wine Bar Image Flickr: Meg Zimbeck
Oyster night at Le Baron Rouge Image Flickr: malias
Tasting wine at Le Verre Vole Image Flickr: Meg Zimbeck

View Top 10 Wine Bars in Paris in a larger map

San Miguel de Allende

Since the 1930s, when the Instituto Allende art school was founded by Stirling Dickinson, San Miguel de Allende has been a popular retreat for artists, poets, writers, and American ex-pats. As you wander the cobblestone streets, you’ll hear as much English spoken here as Spanish. In fact, the Spanish you hear may be coming from Americans in San Miguel to learn Spanish.

The mile-high city is surrounded by the Sierra Madre Mountains, and it enjoys a wonderful climate all year long. Much of the city’s architecture dates from the 18th century, and many of the old buildings now house charming galleries, restaurants, and boutiques.

In addition to art and language lessons, San Miguel is noted for its cooking classes. This is one of the best places in Mexico to learn Mexican cooking. And if you’ll be in town for more than a couple days, plan to spend at least half a day learning the secrets of charring chilies, grinding spices, and mixing up a mole.

The best Mexican cooking schools.

La Cocina Cooking School was opened by Kris Rudolph, who owns the popular El Buen Café. She is also the author of Mexican Light: Healthy Cuisine for Today’s Cook. La Cocina offers a variety of classes at their facility in Colonia San Antonio. Kris teaches several times a week and also brings in guest chefs who teach their specialty.

The Thursday afternoon class focuses on traditional Mexican cooking. Students learn to make enchiladas, chile rellenos, pork loin, beef tips, several salsas and sauces include mole, and desserts like tres leches and flan. Dinner — with margaritas — is served at the end of the class.

On Friday mornings, the group travels to a colorful local market to select vegetables and spices for making fresh salsas. The three-hour class includes lunch. Natural Healthy Mexican Cuisine and Modern Mexican Fusion are available on alternating Tuesdays. The Art of Chiles Rellenos, Fine Mexican Dining, and Moles and Adobados are available on Wednesdays.

Classes at La Cocina cost between $45 and $55 and include lunch or dinner.

Marilau Ricaud teaches recipes that have been handed down in her family for generations at the CociMari Cooking School. She offers everything from four-day workshops to half-day classes, and she’ll customize lessons for individuals or groups. So if you want to learn to cook something special, just let her know in advance.

Classes — which have a maximum of 5 to 10 students — are available for salsas, adobos or marinades, pumpkin seed pipianes, moles, tamales, Yucatan cooking, techniques, and more. Demonstration classes are $65 per person. Hand-on classes, which are limited to five participants, are $99. Non-cooking family and friends can enjoy the group meal for a small fee.

Fresh guacamole

Patsy Dubois first came to San Miguel 40 years ago to study art. After coming to get her Masters Degree, she never returned. She teaches one to three-day classes in the hacienda-style kitchen of her home in the country outside of San Miguel where she grows most of the vegetables used in her classes. On Sundays, she creates a multiple-course Mexican feast that’s served in her kitchen or on the veranda surrounded by her beautiful gardens.

Casa de Sierra Nevada is an Orient Express hotel in San Miguel. Their Sazon Cookery School is in an 18th-century home in the heart of San Miguel. Classes are taught by the chefs from their award-winning restaurants. They cover Mexican specialties, regional cuisines, and seasonal ingredients. And some include a tour of the San Miguel market.

Find cooking classes in Barcelona, Florence, or Rome.

San Miguel de Allende Image Flickr: Señor Codo
Fresh guacamole Image Flickr: stu_spivack

Payard Patisserie

From Alain Ducasse to Joel Robuchon to Pierre Gagnaire, some of the top chefs in France have restaurants in Las Vegas. So Americans can indulge in five-star French dining without having to cross the Atlantic.

But most of the city’s top French restaurants are only open for dinner. So where can a Francophile get a French pastry fix on this side of the world – a crispy, chewy macaron or a dense, rich butter cake? Fortunately, there are several French-style patisseries to choose from.

Chef Jean-Philippe Maury won the Meilleur Ouvrier de France – the country’s highest honor – in 1997 and became the Executive Pastry Chef at Bellagio the following year. His patisserie in the Bellagio Spa Tower, called simply Jean-Philippe Patisserie, offers the kinds of pastries the French do so well – palmiers, coconut macaroons, caramels, nougat, a variety of pound cakes, and sensational chocolates. Guests entering the Bellagio shop are greeted by the world’s largest chocolate fountain.

His patisserie proved so successful, that he opened a larger, second shop recently in the Aria. You can also get a light lunch, individual chocolates and truffles, and hand-made ice creams and sorbets at this location.

Payard Patisserie & Bistro in Caesar’s Palace showcases the pastries and chocolates of Francois Payard. If you’re craving a Croque Monsieur or Madame, the 40-seat bistro is a lovely place for a French brunch or lunch. His gift baskets – filled with jams, confections, chocolates, and cookbooks – make lovely gifts. And his delicious pastries include caramels, macarons in some imaginative flavors, financiers (which are similar to Madeleines), éclairs, tarts, and cakes.

Pastries at Amore

Superstar chef Thomas Keller’s Bouchon is one of the most popular restaurants in Yountville. So it was only natural for Keller to open another branch of his bistro/brasserie in Las Vegas. The Bouchon Bakery next to the restaurant is the place in Yountville for breakfast pastries and baked goods.

The Las Vegas branch is located in the Venetian Resort near the entrance to the theater. Each day, they make a beautiful assortment of Viennoiseries, as pastries like Napoleons and éclairs are known in France, as well as croissants, brioche, tarts, macarons, and bouchon – the addictive little chocolate treats that are shaped like wine corks. Don’t miss the TKO, Keller’s version of an Oreo cookie. You can even pick up goodies for Fido.

Jean-Philippe Patisserie

The newcomer to the Las Vegas pastry scene is Amore Patisserie in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. In addition to pastries, chocolates, and home-made ice cream in flavors like avocado and green tea, Amore also serves sandwiches made with their freshly baked bread. The window displays are fabulous and the level of artistry here is truly impressive with gorgeous arrangements of spun sugar and Louis Vuitton bags made of fondant.

Their packaging is something special, so consider coming here for gifts to take home to friends and family.

If you’re lucky enough to be headed to Paris, find our list of the best patisseries here.

Payard Patisserie Image Flickr: biskuit
Pastries at Amore Image Flickr: dret
Jean-Philippe Patisserie Image Flickr: kckellner

Harrods Food Halls

Although food isn’t as inextricably linked with London as it is with Paris or Rome, visitors to London should make a point of visiting at least one of London’s marvelous gourmet food stores. Prices can be high, but you can still find thoughtful gifts for friends, or treats to remind you of your visit after you return home.

If you’re on a budget and pressed for time, the food halls at Marks & Spenser department stores have a huge selection of products, lots of affordable choices, and they’re conveniently located throughout the city. Tesco, the grocery store chain that owns Fresh & Easy in the United States, is another good source for basics.

Harrods is the indisputable grande dame of London food stores. And even if you’re not shopping for food or wine, you should add it to your must see list.

Visiting Harrods Food Halls.

In 1849, Charles Henry Harrod opened a grocery store in the Knightsbridge neighborhood of London. The store expanded, but was destroyed by fire in 1883. When Harrods continued to fulfill orders promptly following the fire, their reputation for unrivaled service was sealed, a tradition that continues to this day.

Richard Burbidge took over the business, expanded again, and added many innovations, including London’s first escalator. The building we know as Harrods today was designed by Stephens and Munt and opened in 1905. The Food Halls were decorated with mosaics and freezes by W. J, Neatby, and they make up one of the best gourmet food stores in the world.

There are dozens of departments, and virtually nothing you can’t find here. On the ground floor, you’ll find charcuterie, cheese, fruits and vegetables, baked goods, candy, tea and coffee, meat, fish, and poultry. The wine shop is in the basement.

What really sets Harrods apart is the fabulous displays. Fresh foods are arranged in such an artful fashion that they look like perfect still lives. For the ultimate foodie paradise, come during the holidays.

If you’re not hungry when you arrive, you will be before long. Not to worry. In addition to all the prepared foods, there are 13 restaurants in the Food Halls, including a dim sum bar, a rotisserie, a Champagne and oyster bar, and Laduree — one of the top patisseries in Paris. The pizzeria here was the first in London to have a wood-fired oven. Don’t be surprised if the Neapolitan chef bursts into an aria while he tosses the dough.

Depending on your disposition, you may only need to see the British Museum and the Tower of London once. But you can’t help but return to Harrods every time you’re in London.

Other top London food stores.

Founded in 1707, Fortnum & Mason has a long history of providing food to the British royal family and gentry. They supplied provisions to British officers during the Napoleonic Wars, and were frequent caterers to the court of Queen Victoria.

In celebration of Fortnum & Mason’s 300th birthday, in 2007 the store received a $40 million renovation. Today, Fortnum’s is the place for luxury picnic hampers. These can range in price from $70 to thousands of dollars. But you can also buy a nice selection of teas, or popular items like smoked salmon, Stilton, or quail eggs. Marmelade, preserves, biscuits, curds, and chocolates also make great gifts.

Prepared foods at Harrods

The St. James Restaurant at Fortnum & Mason’s is one of the best spots in London for afternoon tea. Several menus are available. The Classic and Estate Afternoon teas include finger sandwiches, pasties, and savory canapés. The menus are seasonal, and the pastries are decorated with a nod to local events and holidays. The High Tea is a full meal with an entrée like Welsh Rarebit or fish pie. Other types of tea service are available in the other four restaurants at Fortnum’s.

One of London’s more fashionable department stores, Harvey Nichols — known as Harvey Nicks to the girls on AbFab — has been in business since 1813. Located on the fifth store of their Knightsbridge store, Harvey Nichols Foodmarket contains 600 exclusive, private-label food products, in addition to gourmet items from all over the world.

Also on the fifth floor are the Harvey Nichols restaurant — scheduled to reopen September 1, 2010 — a new Champagne bar inspired by the Art Nouveau designs of Emile Galle, a café, and roof terrace. A Strawberry Afternoon Tea is served daily and a portion of the price benefits Breast Cancer Care. Cooking classes are also given in the exhibition kitchen.

Find other great food stores in Europe here.

Harrods Food Halls Image Flickr: malte.mathiszig
Prepared foods at Harrods Image Flickr: Wolfiewolf

Unless you’ve gone there on business, you’ve probably never been to Turin, in the Piedmont region of Italy. Although it’s an interesting, attractive city – as much French as it is Italian – it’s not a major destination for travelers.

The seat of the House of Savoy from the 14th century through the Italian unification in 1861, Turin’s broad boulevards and piazzas are similar to those that were popular with the French court. There are two interesting churches in Turin, including the Cathedral of San Giovanni where the famous shroud is occasionally displayed, and an excellent museum of Egyptian art. There’s also fun flea markets in Piazza della Repubblica on Saturdays.

For lovers of Italian food, Turin is well worth a visit, especially if you’ll be in Milan, which is only 80 miles away. Because one of the most impressive food complexes in the world is based in Turin. Cleverly named Eataly, it opened in 2007 and showcases Italian foods and wines that are sanctioned by the Slow Food movement.

Equal parts cooking school, restaurant row, and food and wine market, Eataly lets visitors taste, purchase, and learn about the best foods and wines in Italy in one spot. It’s located in the old Carpano vermouth factory, which was built in 1908 and is a short stroll from the Convention Center. With 118,000 square feet of educational areas, eateries, and markets, it’s very impressive.

You’ll find the best of everything – salumi, cheeses, meat, seasonal local produce, fish, fowl, pastries, breads, and more – in the 27,000-square-foot market. The salumi market has more than 150 different kinds of cured meats. There are more than 200 cheeses to choose from. And you’ll see more kinds of pasta than you ever knew existed.

Coffee, loose tea, chocolate, and a wide array of sustainable and slow foods are available. You can buy more than 200 kinds of beer and choose from a huge selection of wine – 48,000 bottles are displayed.

Fresh produce from the Eataly market.

A huge, wood-burning oven produces bread, Neapolitan pizza, and focaccia. And there are prepared foods you can take away. Eight restaurants, two cafes, and a gelateria serve more than 100 different dishes every day. All the beef is from Piedmontese cattle, and the grilled fish was in the Ligurian Sea hours before.

For something more ambitious – and expensive – try the 50-seat Guido per Eataly restaurant. Husband and wife team Claudio and Anna Vincina update classic Piedmontese dishes like vitello tonnato and bollito misto and accompany them with superb local wines like Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera.

Dining at Eataly.

Some of Italy’s top chefs teach cooking classes in specially designed, 30-seat kitchens and then serve a multi-course meal created especially for the occasion. Each course is paired with an Italian wine selected by one of the sommeliers. There are also separate educational areas, tastings, and classes on beer and wine.

There’s a scaled-down version of Eataly in Toyko. And American food luminaries Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joseph Bastianich — the team behind L.A.’s Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza — are bringing the concept to New York. Their Eataly, which is scheduled to open on August 31, 2010, will feature 20 different departments, a Dogfish Head brewery with roof bar, and a Batali fine-dining restaurant called Manzo.

Read about where to find great Italian food in Rome here.

Eataly in Turin offers the best Italian foods in the world Image Flickr:  singingbeagle
Fresh produce from the Eataly market Image Flickr: MAX 2006 – Max Nunziata “Wild photographer”
Dining at Eataly Image Flickr: demoshelsinki

Provence vineyard

Everyone knows that the French make incredible red and white wine. But their rose wine is also fantastic, albeit sometimes misunderstood.

When I told a friend that we loved the rose wines we drank on our recent trip to France, she turned up her nose and said, “Isn’t that like Kool-Aid?”

The truth is that most American roses, if you can even find them, aren’t very good. We went to the California wine festival yesterday in Santa Barbara, and of the 350 wines they poured, probably fewer than 5% were roses. Of those, only one was even slightly dry.

Many American equate rose with blush wines like white Zinfandel, which are just plain awful. But French roses are delightful, excellent with food, and oh-so-drinkable.

In France, the color is very pale – often with just a tinge of salmon. The exception is Tavel, which is a deeper shade of pink. And it’s served lightly chilled.

Rose is made from red grapes, often Syrah, Grenache, or Cinsaut. The skin is left on for a few hours or a few days, depending on the type of grape. The skin gives the wine its lovely color. When the wine is pressed, the skins are removed. Since many of the tannins present in wine come from the skin, rose wine taste more like white wine than red.

There are several kinds of French rose. Anjou rose is made in the Loire Valley, and Champagne and Burgundy also produce rose wine. But to us, the best roses comes from Southern France.

Almost 80% of the wine produced in the Cotes de Provence region is rose. Made mostly from Cinsaut and Grenache, these roses are dry with floral fruit and lovely color. Chateau Miravel and Saint Roch-les-Vignes are both wonderful.

Of the rose wine from the Southern Cotes du Rhone, Tavel stands out. Made from a blend of Grenache and Syrah, it’s darker, dryer, and higher in alcohol than other French roses. It’s the perfect accompaniment to a Provencal-style lunch of Salade Nicoise, ratatouille, or grilled fish. It tastes like summer in a glass.

Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence goes from the Luberon to the Mediterranean. Some unusual grapes including Mourvedre and Counoise, produce a delicious wine with subtle raspberry fruit.

Rose wine on ice

One of the most-admired roses in France is the Domaine Tempier from Bandol, a small resort town on the Riviera not far from Cassis. The grapes grown here benefit from an average of 3,000 hours of sunlight per year. That, and Mediterranean breezes that mitigate the heat, yield notes of peach, grass, and strawberries. It’s a brilliant wine that pairs well with any summer salad.

The mistral, or north wind, does a good job keeping insects to a minimum, so the region has several organic estates that are also producing roses. If you’re visiting Arles, Avignon, or Aix-en-Provence, sample several.

If you’re stuck at home, most of the French roses available in the United States are pretty affordable. Our local wine shop has several kinds for around $15 a bottle. For a memorable summer brunch, pick up several kinds and invite some friends over for a rose tasting.

Read more about tasting wine in Avignon here.

Provence vineyard Image Flickr: jaybergesen
Rose wine on ice Image Flickr: Arthur40A

Flea market fun

With some of the top flea markets in the country going strong for years now, L.A. needs another flea market like it needs a hole in the head. But Southern Californians are so crazy for flea markets that too much is not enough. In fact, the only thing more popular than flea markets is food trucks. And some brilliant entrepreneur got the idea to combine the two.

The new L.A. Flea Market debuts on July 18 in the parking lot of Dodger Stadium. The grand opening will feature the Hollywood Yard Sale with items donated by George Clooney, Brad Pitt, and other celebrities. Proceeds from sales will benefit the Salvation Army Adult Rehabilitation Center.

More than 500 vendors are scheduled to participate, selling everything from antiques, vintage clothes, furniture, collectibles, fine art, crafts, and just plain junk. The antique and vintage section will be managed by King Richards, which is one of the area’s best established antique centers. There will also be new merchandise and sustainable goods and charity groups.

A kids’ play area with a rock-climbing wall and inflatable play-gyms will keep them occupied.

Typical of Southern California, a VIP pass is available for $25. It includes valet parking, early-bird (7AM) admission, concierge service for schlepping your purchases, and a reserved porta-potty section away from the riff raff – and presumedly behind red, velvet ropes. Doors open at 9AM and general admission is $5.

Komodo food truck

Local bands, including Freddie and Francine, The Broken Numbers Band, and John Paul and the Courtship, will provide entertainment throughout the day.

What really sets the new market apart is the presence of some of L.A.’s top food trucks. Unlike some other cities, L.A’s ethnic neighborhoods aren’t centralized, and you might have to drive 90 minutes to satisfy a craving for Jamaican food. In response, ethnic food trucks have sprung up that bring exotic flavors to a variety of locations. Fans learn their whereabouts by following them on Twitters.

Shoppers at the flea market grand opening can choose from Butter Chicken over Basmati Rice from India Jones, Indonesian Beef Rendang with Cucumber Salad or Singapore-style Shrimp with Sour Cream Salad from Komodo, Jerk Pork with rice and beans from Reggae Chicken, Korean Fried Chicken from Ahn-Joo, Grilled Beef Vietnamese Baguettes from Mandoline Grill, Crispy Baja Fish Tacos from Border Grill, Nutella and Banana Crepes from Crepe’n Around, and more.

Goodies from the Komodo food truck

Two shows are scheduled following the grand opening – one on August 29 and one on September 26.

If you love searching for treasures at the flea market, mingling with the masses, and sampling some delicious and affordable ethnic food, you know where to go.

Read more about Southern California flea markets here. and here.

Flea market fun Image Flickr: dorena-wm
Komodo food truck Image Flickr: ricardodiaz11
Goodies from the Komodo food truck Image Flickr: helkimchee

Volpetti in Rome

Rome is one of the world’s great food destinations. Whether you’re savoring a slice of pizza bianca at Campo de Fiori or enjoying a gelato on the Spanish Steps, eating great food is an integral part of Roman life.

In addition to world-class Italian restaurants, charming trattorias, and homey pizzerias, Rome also has wonderful food store, bakeries, and markets where you can sample incredilble meats, cheeses, sweets, produce, and more.

Here’s our list of the best places to pick up Italian food in Rome:

Ai Monasteri
Here, they sell products produced by monasteries and convents all over Italy. “Products from the beehive” are a specialty, but you’ll also find wines, cordials, teas, liqueurs, chocolates, candies, jams, oils, vinegars, beauty and health products. The shop was founded in 1894 and has been run by the same family for four generations.

Angelini
Not far from the Opera House, Angelini opened in 1880. It’s one of Rome’s best old-school wine shops, and you can have them pour you a jug of Castelli Romani wine right from the barrel. It’s one of the top three DOC wines from Lazio.

Buccone
This historic wine shop near the Piazza del Popolo has an incredible selection of vintages, Italian and imported beers, and epicurean products. They stock wines in all price ranges and the staff can help you find just the right bottle. With its old wooden beams, this cozy coach house is an atmospheric spot for lunch. And dinners are served on Friday and Saturday nights. If you request it a week in advance, you can have a wine tasting before your dinner.

Campo de Fiori
Rome’s best food market is a must-visit for foodies. During the day, the piazza is packed with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and flowers. At night, it’s the home of some of Rome’s most popular bars. Because it’s a popular tourist destination, prices are high. But you’ll come away with great photos. There are delis, wine, and cheese shops. If you’re hungry, grab a delicious slice of Pizza Bianca at Forno Campo de Fiori.

Castroni
You’ll find meats, cheese, oils, vinegars, herbs, coffee beans, and other delicacies from all the regions of Italy here, as well as food from around the globe. If you’re renting an apartment and trying to make a home-cooked meal, this is also the best place buy British, and American packaged foods. There’s a nice selection of organic products, and you can have coffee, sandwiches, or pastries at the bar.

Artichokes at Campo de Fiori

Mercato di Testaccio
Although Testaccio isn’t the best neighborhood in Rome, food lovers find the market here worth the extra effort. Covered stalls sell fruits and vegetables, meats, cheeses, seafoods, breads, and everything else you’ll need for a fabulous picnic or delicious dinner.

Moriondo e Gariglio
The finest chocolatier in Rome, Moriondo e Gariglio opened in 1850. The more than 80 kinds of confections they sell are made from fiercely guarded family recipes. The shop is lovely – and packed – around Easter and Christmas. Specialties include truffles, candied chestnuts (marrons glace), liqueur-filled chocolates, and confections made with nuts.

Panella
In the know tourists come here for the mortadella-stuffed pizza bianca, but there are also delicious breads of all kinds, regional Italian cheeses, preserves, and pastries. You can have your sweet with a coffee at the tiny bar inside.

Trimani Vinai a Roma dal 1821
No mystery about how long Trimani has been in business. In fact, it’s the oldest wine shop in Rome, and many would say the best. Stocking thousands of Italian, French, and sparkling wines, Trimani also hosts wine tastings and lectures.

Volpetti
Arguably the best food store in Rome, is located in the working-class Testaccio neighborhood. Volpetti has all kinds of salumi, including prosciutto, coppa, mortadella, speck, bresaola, salami, soppressata, guanciale, and pancetta. The list of Italian cheeses is equally impressive, and there’s a nice selection of French cheese too. Wines, prepared salads and pasta dishes, smoked fish, breads, pastries, chocolates, coffee, and vinegars make this your one-stop-shop for gourmet foods in Rome.

Read more about Italian foods here.

View Best Rome Food Stores in a larger map

1) Ai Monasteri
2) Angelini
3) Buccone
4) Campo de Fiori
5) Castroni
6) Enoteca al Parlamento
7) Mercato di Testaccio
8) Moriondo e Gariglio
9) Panella
10) Trimani
11) Volpetti

Volpetti in Rome Image Flickr: Meg Zimbeck
Artichokes at Campo de Fiori Image Flickr: Maggie Hoffman

Palais des Papes

It’s an imposing place, and surprisingly secular. After the revolution, it was used as a prison and later a barracks, so most of the Papal splendor is long gone. But some of the rooms still have beautiful frescoes. Especially the Chambre du Cerf, which shows the locals hunting, fishing, and trapping birds.

The scale of the rooms is amazing — the ceremonial halls here are the size of cathedrals.

The Avignon Popes enjoyed the good life, and wine was an integral part. They promoted viticulture in the region just north of Avignon and established what would later be called Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which means “new castle of the Pope.”

Today, the wines of the Cote du Rhones AOC range from full-bodied reds to fruity roses. There’s one for every palate. And one of the best places to taste — and buy — wine from the region is in the Palais des Papes.

La Bouteillerie

You can taste three for 6 euros, and individual wines are available to taste at a price of 2 to 7 euros per glass.

Bottles are the same price as they are at the wineries, so you can pick up a bottle of Chateauneuf-du-Pape red for as little as 19.50 euros.

The gardens above the Cathedral are a great spot for a picnic. You can see the Rhone, the rooftops of the city, and Mont Ventoux in the distance. So grab a bottle, a loaf of bread from the local boulangeie, and some cheese, and head for the hills.

If you don’t have time to visit the wineries north of town, the Palais des Papes is a convenient, affordable place to taste the local wines.
Find more attractions in Provence here.

Paella

When we first went to Spain in 1997, the food was nothing to write home about.  If you substituted the word “ham” for “spam” in the Monty Python sketch, you could describe pretty much every menu we encountered.

Until we got to Barcelona.  The food there was wonderful, making the most of Mediterranean seafood, herbs, and produce.

The Catalonians have always preserved their culture, and their culinary traditions are a big part of that.  So cooking classes in Barcelona are a great way to expand your skills and learn more about Catalan culture.

Over the centuries, the region has been home to significant Roman, Jewish, and Arab populations, and the cuisine has been influenced by all of them.  It’s delicious and very healthy.

Cook & Taste has given cooking lessons to more than 4,000 students.  They offer half-day classes seven days a week in their school on Paradis Street.  Their 3-1/2 hour classes start at 11AM or 5PM and include a trip to La Boqueria Market for supplies.  Traditional dishes like gazpacho, tomato soup with smoked cheese, paella, tapas, tortilla Espanol, and crema Catalana are usually prepared.  And participants enjoy the meal they made together at the end of the class.  They also offer three-day advanced seminars.

Entrance to La Boqueria market

Located near the Placa San Jaume, GotoLearn.com has half- and whole-day classes that visit the market and include a recipe booklet.  With a maximum class size of twelve, you’ll get some hands-on attention.

Catacurian.com offers full-day classes that start at 10AM with a visit to La Boqueria.  Students enjoy their lunch accompanied by wines form the Priorat region, as well as Cava, brandy, and coffee.  Classes devoted to tapas or paellas are also available, so ask when you make reservations.  Prices depend on the number of participants.

If you have rented an apartment for your visit to Barcelona, CatalanCooking.com will come to your apartment and conduct a cooking class there.  Several different three-course menus are available.  And classes are available in English, French, or German.

Find cooking classes in Florence here. And cooking class in Rome here.

Paella Flickr Image: sjwilliams82
Entrance to La Boqueria market Flickr Image: laura padgett

St-Trophime

Located in the south of France, Arles is one of the most interesting cities in Provence. It was made the second capital of Rome in 306 AD by Constantine the Great, and it has some of the best preserved Roman sites outside of Italy. Arles is also a must visit for fans of Vincent van Gogh, who did some of his most compelling work here.

Travelers appreciate the charming plaza, sidewalk cafes, good restaurants, and hotels. Plus, if you stay in the historic center of town, you can walk to almost everything.

Arles attractions.

Many of Arles attractions are included in a combination ticket that’s available at the tourist information office. If you plan to visit several museums and attractions, it will save you some money.

* The Museum of Ancient Arles is about a 20 minute walk along the Rhone River from the center of town. It has models that show how the Roman ruins looked in ancient times, some sarcophagi that date back to the Roman Christian era, and jewelry, tools, and other ancient artifacts.
* The Arena was built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. It’s still in use today, and during bull-fighting season, 20 spectators pack the stadium. Climb one of the towers for great views of Arles and the Rhone River.
* The Roman Theatre also dates from the 1st century. Today, it’s used as a concert venue during Festival d’Arles, which takes place each summer. When the weather’s fine, it’s also a nice spot for a picnic lunch.
* St-Trophime is a 12th-century Romanesque church that’s a UNESCO World Heritage site. The carved sculptures on the portal are amazing, and the adjoining cloisters are lovely.
* Modern art lovers should visit Musee Reattu which has 57 drawings by Picasso. The museum is located in the 15th-century priory of the Knights of Malta.
* Arles has a unique culture and you can learn more about it at the Museon Arlaten, which has furniture, dolls, costumes, and other everyday objects,
* Les Alyscamps is an old Roman cemetery that was painted by both van Gogh and Gaughin. It’s a pleasant walk from town, and another good place for a picnic.
* A subterranean gallery dating from 30 B.C., the Cryptoportiques has more artifacts from Roman times. And there are well-preserved 4th-century Roman baths that were part of Constantine’s palace.
* If you’re in Arles on Wednesday or Saturday morning, go to the market. On Saturdays, it’s on Boulevard de Lices. On Wednesdays, it’s on Boulevard Emily Combes.

Place de la Republique

Arles hotels.

Some of the best hotels in Arles are housed in historic buildings, so it’s not hard to find lodgings with character. If you prefer to walk to restaurants and attractions, stay near the Arena.

* The Grand Hotel Nord Pinus has hosted bullfighters and models, artists and rock stars. The location on Place du Forum is terrific, and the Brasserie is a popular spot for a meal. This is a very stylish place. Affordable rooms are small, and nice rooms are expensive.
* L’Hotel Particulier is an 18th-century mansion about a five-minute walk from town. The 13 rooms here are beautifully decorated and have polished wood floors and exposed beams. There’s a swimming pool and small spa.
* La Mas de la Chapelle occupies an old priory not far from town. It’s set in private park with tennis, a swimming pool, a 16th-century chapel.
* Hotel d’Arlatan has a pretty terrace courtyard, a swimming pool, and a glass lobby floor that looks down on part of Constantine’s 4th-century palace.
* Hotel du Forum offers good value for money in the historic part of town. Many of the rooms here overlook the Place du Forum or the swimming pool.
* With a garden restaurant, indoor swimming pool, and spa, Hotel Le Calendal has a lot to offer for the money. The location between the arena and the theater is convenient to everything.
* Hotel Jules Cesar has 56 rooms in a former Carmelite convent from the 17th century. There’s a great restaurant and a heated outdoor pool. Rooms are decorated with colorful Provencal fabrics. A very pleasant place to stay, it’s a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group.
* Although it only has two stars, Hotel de l’Amphiteatre makes up for it in charm and service. The building, which originally dates from the 17th century, has some nice architectural details, and the antique furnishings are a perfect fit. The Belevedere Suite offers 360-degree views of Arles.

Arles restaurants.

Arles is surprisingly close to both Spain and Italy, so the cuisine here is as Mediterranean as it is French. In fact, you’re as likely to find gazpacho on the menu as bouillabaisse. Tapas are a great way to try lots of dishes, and of course, the wine is marvelous. Most Arles restaurants are small, so reservations at dinner are a must.

* Speaking of tapas, Pizzeria Ecrin has a good selection, along with pizzas, and salads. Good for lunch after visiting the Amphitheatre.
* L’Affenage has food from all over the Mediterranean. There’s a terrace out front, and an appetizer buffet inside.
* L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel makes the most of the organic veggies grown in the extensive gardens. The restaurant has a Michelin star and commensurate prices. If you’re on a budget, Rabanel’s Le Bistro a Cote nest door is less expensive.
* La Gueule de Loup is a favorite of locals who come for baked lamb, and other Provencal specialties. Several prix fixe menus make it a good value.
* Diners at Lou Marques in the Hotel Jules Cesar can choose between the pretty dining room and the lovely terrace. The wine list and food here are first rate.
* Brin de Thym is a nice, family-run place with good food, warm service, and reasonable prices.

Read more about Arles here.

1) Museum of Ancient Arles
2) Arles Arena
3) Roman Theater
4) St-Trophime
5) Musee Reattu
6) Museon Arlatan
7) Les Alyscamps
8) Cryptoportique
9) Grand Hotel Nord Pinus
10) L’Hotel Particulier
11) Hotel d’Arlatan
12) Hotel du Forum
13) Hotel le Calendal
14) Hotel Jules Cesar
15) Hotel de l’Amphitheatre
16) Pizzeria l’Ecrin
17) L’Affenage
18) L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel
19) La Gueule de Loup
20) Lou Marques
21) Brin de Thyme

View Arles attractions, hotels, and restaurants in a larger map

St-Trophime Image Flickr: Allie_Caulfield
Place de la Republique Image Flickr: Wolfgang Staudt

Baguettes

In America, most bakeries sell both bread and pastries. But in France, the two specialties aren’t always combined. Pastries are sold at pastry shops or patisseries, and bread is sold at bakeries or boulangeries.

Breadmaking is truly an art form here and much attention is paid to the yeast, levain, fermentation time and temperature, etc. Many of France’s best bakers are fourth or fifth generation, and baking is a well-respected craft in France. In fact, the French government confers a special designation – Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) – on the most skilled practitioners.

The test for this honor is a grueling three-day affair, and many choose not to apply. So if you see the MOF sign in the window of a boulangerie, you know the baker is serious about his craft.

Most boulangeries specialize in a certain kind of bread, and it’s helpful to know what it is. If you’re not sure, just ask “Quelle est la specialite de la maison?” to find out.

Without a doubt, the most revered bakery in Paris is Poilane. Established in 1932 by Pierre Poilane, they still use a wood-burning oven that dates from 1789. Pierre’s son Lionel inherited the business, and today, Lionel’s daughter Apollonia oversees it. Best known for their sourdough miche, rye boule, and the butter cookies called Punitions, Poilane now has two locations in Paris, and one in London. Raisin and walnut breads are also available. Inside, note the bread chandelier designed by Salvador Dali.

Moulin de la Vierge was established 30 years ago by Basile Kamir, who believed in making bread the old-fashioned way. He uses organic, stone-ground flour and shapes the loaves by hand, a tradition continued in all four Moulin de la Vierge locations. The loaves are baked in a wood-fired oven and are crusty and golden. In addition to sourdough and country-style bread, they also sell Viennoiseries, which is the French term for breakfast pastries. Try the custard-filled Pain au Raisin. The turn-of-the-century interiors are worth popping in to see.

Du Pains et des Idees

Former fashion-industry executive Christophe Vasseur decided that baking was his true vocation, so he apprenticed to learn the trade, found one of the last-remaining original bakeries in Paris, and opened Du Pain et des Idees in 2002. It takes him seven hours to make a baguette. And the proof’s in the pudding — he won the Gault Millau prize for Best Boulangerie in Paris in 2008. Specialties here include croissants, Boules aux Graines et Cereales, and Mini Paves which have savory fillings that change daily, like spinach and goat cheese or apricots and bleu cheese.

Chewy and tart, the organic sourdough boules at Le Boulanger de Monge are some of the best in town. But baker Dominique Saibron provides his 2,000 daily customers with plenty of choices. Traditional baguettes, ciabata with walnuts or olives, ficelle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds, and small loaves with bacon and Comte cheese. And that’s just the bread. There’s also chocolate tarts, fruit tarts, croissants, buches, and galettes.

Philippe Gosselin in the 1st is the place to go for baguettes. In fact, they have won the Best Baguette in Paris Grand Prix. Monsieur Gosselin is a fourth-generation baker, married to a baker’s daughter. He kneads his baguette dough on low speed for twelve minutes, and then lets it rest for two hours. He adds salt and yeast, kneads again, then lets the dough rest for up to three hours before shaping the loaves by hand. If you’re feeling peckish, order one of the delicious sandwiches. In addition to scrumptious breads, there are cakes, tarts, and macarons.

Poilane

Eric Kayser is a Paris institution, with locations all over the world and 16 shops in Paris. He combines traditional technique with the latest technology to create more than 60 kinds of bread, 50 cakes, and 25 pastries each day. Made using natural leaven and a machine called a Fermentolevain they create truly original combinations like parmesan shortbreads, and ground pepper cakes. His croissants are superb. Grab one of the sandwiches to go and have a picnic in the park.

Not far from the Eiffel Tower, Thierry Dubois’s Pain d’Epis makes baguettes, ficelles, and loaves using a dough made of several kinds of flour. He calls the mixture Royale. His Pain au Raisin is packed with fruit, and his Croissant aux Amandes is light as air. Another specialty here is fougasse, a Provencal flatbread that’s filled with cheeses, vegetables, or fruits.

Read our list of the best Paris patisseries here.

Baguettes Image Flickr: Paris by Mouth
Du Pains et des Idees Image Flickr: Meg Zimbeck
Poilane Image Flickr: bongo vongo