Dubrovnik

In many ways, Adriatic cruises are the most enjoyable European cruises. First of all, the Dalmatian coast of Croatia and Montenegro offers spectacular scenery. The ports are some of the most interesting in Europe. And because some of them have limited docking facilities, you’ll likely arrive on a smaller ship and with fewer other cruises – and cruisers – in port.

In places like Kotor, you’ll be able to dock close to town, so you’ll enjoy more time ashore. And many of these ancient cities are a walker’s dream.

Well-known cruise lines including Princess, Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL), Holland America, MSC and Costa Cruise offer cruises in the Adriatic. And ultra-luxury lines like Sea Cloud and Ponant are other options.

Most Adriatic cruises begin or end in Venice, and Norwegian (NCL), MSC, and Costa Cruises all offer seven-day roundtrip cruises from there. If you have two weeks, you can stay aboard for a second week on NCL and see different ports on the latter half of the voyage.

The one-week cruises usually include a couple of the beautiful Greek Islands – Santorini, Mykonos, or Corfu, depending on which itinerary you choose. Two-week voyages usually call in Athens too. A 200-passenger French ship does a seven-night cruise round trip from Dubrovnik.

Sailing roundtrip from Venice makes your air arrangements a little less complicated, and Venice is a magical place to spend a couple of nights before or after your cruise.

There are also 12 and 14-night cruises that begin or end in Rome. These will often call in Malta, Sicily, and Sorrento or Naples for the Isle of Capri. If you haven’t been to Southern Italy, it’s well worth exploring.

Hvar

Bear in mind that Rome is some distance from Civitavecchia, where the port is located. If you haven’t been before, give yourself a few days to see Rome before heading home.

The highlight of any Adriatic cruise is Dubrovnik. Known as the “jewel of the Adriatic,” the medieval walled city was extensively restored following the war in the early 1990s. With its orange tile roofs, smashing ocean views, and marble squares, it’s indescribably beautiful.

A hike on top of the walls that encircle the city is rewarded with incredible views of the Adriatic. When you’re done, you’ll find plenty of cafes in the piazzas for a beer or a glass of wine.

Split, also in Croatia, is similar to Dubrovnik, but on a smaller scale. It’s best known as the site of Diocletian’s palace, built in the fourth century AD. Parts of the palace are remarkably well preserved, and the old town is delightful.

Some of the smaller ships call at the Crotian island resorts of Hvar and Korcula.

Kotor, in Montenegro, is also a stop on many cruises in the Adriatic. Sailing through the Gulf of Kotor to reach the city provides some of the best scenery in the region, and you’ll pass the gorgeous island of Sveti Stefan, which is now home to a luxurious resort.

The old, Byzantine city of Ravenna boasts some of the most brilliant mosaics in the world in its superb churches. If your cruise calls here, it will be one of the highlights of your trip.

Dubronivk Image Flickr: Mike McHolm
Hvar Image Flickr: Lena_Ni

Rovinj from the Sea

Although it’s now part of Croatia, the Istrian peninsula is very Italian in feel. The Italian town of Trieste is less than 15 miles away, and Venice is just across the Adriatic.

Fans of Lidia Bastianich know that the chef grew up here and many of her recipes combine Italian tradition with local ingredients. Truffles are a specialty of the region.

Rovinj is a delightful, waterfront town with a historic center that has Venetian-style piazzas, and charming cafes, galleries, and shops. It was originally an island, but the channel was filled in during the 18th century. The sparkling Adriatic and the picturesque harbor are visible from almost everywhere, and most of the buildings in the old town are well-preserved and protected.

Strolling the winding cobblestone lanes and enjoying a glass of wine at one of the outdoor cafes are the principal pastimes here. There is a small museum in the former palace of Italian aristocrats. Today, it displays archaeological relics from the area and paintings from several periods.

The body and coffin of St. Euphemia washed up here in the 9th century — some say miraculously — and she was made the patron saint of Rovinj. The baroque church that bears her name is a popular pilgrimage destination. It sits atop the highest hill in town. The bell tower and copper statue of the saint that crowns it can be seen as you approach from the sea.

Rovinj hotels are of a high standard and almost all of them have Internet access, satellite TV, mini bars, and other modern amenities. Many have activities like water sports and tennis, and several have programs for children.

Rovinj hotels.

Built in 1912, the Hotel Adriatic is the oldest hotel in Rovinj and its location on the main piazza is great. There are views of the harbor, St. Catherine’s Island, and the old town. You can walk to everything from here, including the town’s pebbly beach and ferry docks. The terrace café is popular with both locals and tourists. The 27 rooms here book well in advance, so if you want to stay here, make your plans early.

Located on St. Andrew’s Island, a 15 minute boat ride from town, Hotel Istra is a good place to get away from it all. With two pools, a fitness center, a gravel beach, tennis, water sports, and bike rentals, there’s no shortage of things to do. And if you don’t feel like leaving the island, there’s a restaurant, a pizzeria, a grill, and several bars. The 326 rooms all have balconies or terraces, most with ocean views.

Rovinj rooftops

Above the marina, overlooking the Adriatic and St. Catherine’s Island, Hotel Parc is convenient to both the nature park and Rovinj’s shops and restaurants. In fact. the promenade below the hotel is lined with them. The 202 rooms were recently renovated and there are three swimming pools, a health club, and several restaurants and bars.

The other island-based resort in Rovinj is the Hotel Katarina, on St. Catherine’s (Santa Katarina) Island. The views of Rovinj and the other islands from the waterfront promenade are amazing. The island features some 19th-century parks and an old castle which is part of the property. There are 61 rooms in the main building and another 59 in a newer annex. A full range of activities and a children’s program are available.

Those who want to stay in a romantic, old town location, should choose Villa Angela d’Oro, which is in a restored palace dating from the 17th century. Each of the 24 guest rooms is individually decorated with antiques, old paintings, and period furnishings. And most have views of the sea. If your room doesn’t, the views from the loggia and library are beautiful. The hotel has a sauna, solarium, and Jacuzzi too.

Find hotels in nearby Trieste here. Or other Croatia hotels here.

1) Rojinj Heritage Museum
2) St. Euphemia Church
3) Hotel Adriatic
4) Hotel Istria
5) Hotel Eden
6) Hotel Parc
7) Hotel Katarina
8) Villa Angelo d’Oro

View Rovinj Hotels in a larger map

Rovinj from the Sea and Rovinj rooftops Images Flickr: akk_rus

Diocletian's Palace in Split

The palace is still here, and a lot more, including the studio of Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic, the Croatian Archaeology Museum, and a vibrant old town that dates to Roman times.  The waterfront Riva promenade is lined with shops and restaurants.  And in summer, there’s a lively cultural festival with concerts, plays, and theatrical performances.

Today, Split is the transportation hub of the Dalmatian coast, with ferries coming and going to Dubrovnik, the Croatian islands, and beyond.   And Split hotels, many of which opened in the last few years, are some of the best in Croatia.

The People’s Square, known by locals as the piazza, is another popular gathering place in the Old Town.  Hotels within walking distance of the palace and the Riva are the most desirable, and many provide a delightful blend of ancient and modern.

The Hotel Marmont is a new boutique hotel with just 22 rooms.  The location in the heart of the Old Town within the palace walls is a big plus, as is the roof terrace overlooking the city.  Rooms are nicely furnished and the large, modern bathrooms are especially nice.  Wireless Internet access is available throughout the hotel at no additional charge.  Reservations can be made at http://www.marmonthotel.com.

Opened in 2005, the Peristil has probably the best location in Split, just inside the Silver Gate to Diocletian’s Palace.  In fact, several of the hotel’s 12 luxurious guest rooms share walls with the palace.  The restaurant here is one of the best in town, and the open-air terrace is an absolute delight.  Amenities like Internet access and mini bars ensure a comfortable stay, and for the location, rates are reasonable.  Reserve well in advance at www.hotelperistil.com.

Sphinx at Diocletian's Palace

Also located within the palace walls, the 7-room Vestibule Palace was one of the first boutique hotels in Split when it opened in 2005.  The owners took great care to preserve the adjacent architecture, which dates from the Roman, Gothic, and Renaissance periods.  The contrast between old and new, so often seen in Split hotels, is especially striking here.  A clerestory floods the lobby with light, and the terrace out front is always a popular spot.  Rooms have wireless Internet access, LCD TVs, minibars, and ultra-modern bathrooms.   The Vestibule Palace is a little more expensive that the Peristil.  But both are excellent choices.   For more information, visit http://www.vestibulpalace.com.

With beautiful rooms and public areas, a Comfort Zone Spa and Wellness Center, and professional staff, the Atrium Hotel is one of the most stylish hotels in Split.  The pool overlooking the city and parking garage are novelties here.  And the price you pay for such modernity is location — the Atrium is a good 15-minute walk from the old town.  If you’re looking for a top-notch design hotel that could be just about any place, you’ll likely enjoy the Atrium.  There’s a good restaurant and an attractive lounge.  See more at www.hotel-atrium.hr.

The 381-room Le Meridien Lav is the only international chain hotel in Split.  If you’re trying to earn Starwood points — or to redeem them — this is the spot.  Opened in 2006, the hotel is actually in Podstrana, five miles south of Split.  But it makes up for it by being right on the ocean.  The hotel also offers shuttle service into town.  There are eight restaurants and bars in the promenade along the adjoining marina, where 60 yachts are moored.  The facilities here, which include a spa, tennis academy, indoor and outdoor heated pools, fitness center, and water sports center, are the best in the area.  There’s even a casino.  Rooms are very nicely done, and many have ocean-view balconies.   Le Meridien is one of the most expensive Split hotels.    Find out more at www.lemeridien.com/split.

If you’re going to travel to Croatia, our article on Hvar hotels will help you with your trip planning.

Hvar Harbor

Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast have really caught on with travelers in the last few years.  With miles of stunning coastline, reasonable prices, and a great blend of natural beauty and history, it’s easy to see why.

Dubrovnik and Split are the most popular towns.  And both can be overwhelmed with tourists when the cruise ships are in port.   But the island of Hvar, which has the sunniest climate in the Adriatic, still has plenty of places where you can escape the masses.

Equal parts sleepy fishing village, and jet-set playground, Hvar is a delightful place to spend a few days.

Over the centuries, the island has been under Greek, Roman, and Venetian rule, and you‘ll find remnants of all those cultures on the island.  Even the Hapsburgs reigned here.  But for most of the 20th century, Hvar was part of Yugoslavia.

Today, the 50-mile long island is noted for its lavender fields, red and white wines, and the hill-top fortress which provides hikers with terrific views of the Adriatic coastline and islands.  To reach Hvar, take a ferry from Split or Dubrovnik or from the Italian ports of Ancona and Pescara.

Built around a 16th-century pizaza — the largest in Croatia — Hvar town is the island’s main hub.  The action here centers around the central square and the harbor where the passenger ferry docks.

Car ferries arrive and depart from the town of Stari Grad.  But because much of Hvar town is closed to automobiles, you should think twice about bringing a car.  You can get almost anywhere with a rented motor bike.

Most of the Hvar hotels have either been built or renovated within the last few years, so amenities like wireless Internet access, LCD TVs, and in-room safes are pretty common.  While many of the places to stay in Hvar are expensive for Croatia, they’re much less than comparable resorts in Ibiza or the South of France.

Hvar has some of the best nightlife on the Adriatic.  And it goes until the wee hours.  If you want to party the night away, stay near the harbor.  If you want to enjoy a good night’s sleep, choose a Hvar hotel that’s a mile or two out of town.

Hvar Harbor

Here’s our list of the best Hvar accommodations:

The most expensive Hvar hotel, and certainly the most posh, the Adriana is Croatia’s only member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World.  From the rooftop terrace with heated salt-water swimming pool and sky bar to the 15,000-square-foot Sensori Spa, everything here is stylish and polished.  Located right on the harbor, the Adriana is in the heart of the action, so it’s not always quiet.  But the rooftop deck has smashing views of the harbor and the islands, the Val Marina terrace restaurant has terrific ambience, and outdoor massage cabanas and an outdoor whirlpool let you take your pampering outside.  A member of the Suncani Hvar Hotels group, Adriana guests can also enjoy Bonj les Bain, Suncani’s private beach club.  Surrounded by a pine grove on the shore of Amfora Bay, Bonj les Bain has private rental cabanas and pontoons built around a white, stone colonnade that dates from the 1930s.  Book through Suncani.

Also on Hvar‘s seafront promenade,Riva Yacht Harbor hotel is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group.  Opened in 2006 in a 100-year-old, protected building, this luxury boutique hotel is party central.  The open-air terrace overlooks the yachts in the marina and it’s probably the best place in town to watch the sunset on the islands.  The rooms are decorated in a chic, modern style.  And Roots Restaurants serves fresh Mediterranean cuisine.  There’s a pebbly beach nearby, but no pool.  Since the Adriana opened, the Riva is no longer the place to stay, but it’s a better value.  Book through Suncani.

If you want to snag one of the 15 rooms at Hotel Park Hvar, you’ll have to reserve well in advance.  Located in a 16th-century palace that was renovated in 2006, it has one of the best locations in the old town.  Many of the accommodations have a bedroom and a living room, and some have balconies overlooking the sea.  With a beautiful garden to the south and courtyard to the north, it offers a little oasis of calm.  There’s no pool, but it’s just steps from Hvar’s attractions.  Make reservations at Hotel Park Hvar.

About a 20 minute walk from town by lovely coastal path, Hotel Podstine overlooks a small cove and tropical garden.  If you’re arriving in Hvar via the passenger ferry, they’ll send the shuttle to pick you up.  Their Spalmaris Spa is surrounded by palms and citrus trees, and the restaurant and terrace café have fresh seafood and great views.  Rooms on the 2nd and 3rd floors have ocean-view balconies with deck chairs and umbrellas.  This is a great choice if you want a beach and don’t want to pay for Suncani’s expensive Bonj les Bains private beach.  Visit Hotel Podstine for information or reservations.

With its cascading, heated swimming pool complete with swim-up bar and dining pavilions, Amfora is the ocean-front choice for the young and active.  DJ-hosted Apres Beach parties in the late afternoon get the action started.  And there’s a pool-side climbing wall and an open-air restaurant that serves grilled fish and  Dalmatian specialties.  It’s a 2-minute walk from Bonj les Bains and a 15-minute stroll from Hvar town. Book through Suncani.

If you’re traveling with a group, you can have lovely Villa Rosmarinus all to your self.  The villa, which sleeps a total of 12, is perched in a pine grove overlooking Podstine Bay.   You can also rent the 2nd and 3rd floors, which sleep six.  With parquet floors, terraces with sea views, and private parking, this is a nice spot away from the hustle of Hvar town.  Individual rooms are also available.  Visit Villa Rosmarinus.

Any list of Hvar hotels has to include the Hvar Palace.  Located right on the piazza in the palace of a Venetian governor, it’s the oldest hotel in Hvar.  The location is hard to beat, but even the “renovated” rooms are tired and if you stay here, you’ll likely be disappointed.  But do come for a cocktail at the  Venetian Terrace, one of the best spots in town.

Read more Croatia trip planning ideas here.

Hvar Harbor Image Flickr: Lena Ni
Hvar Harbor Image Flickr: piotrr70′s