Arles, France
If the surrounding landscape looks familiar, it’s because it’s little changed since van Gogh painted it around 1881. You can see drawings by Picasso, and work by other Provencal artists at the Musee Reattu. And visit Espace van Gogh, the hospital where he was treated. It now contains a small van Gogh museum.
There’s a colorful market on Wednesdays in Boulevard Emile Combes and Saturdays on Boulevard des Lices. It’s a good place to pick up cheese, wine, and other picnic supplies.
About a 20-minute walk from town, the Ancient History Museum is a good place to get oriented. It will help flesh out your visit to the Roman Amphitheatre. Built in the 1st century, it’s still used for bull fights.
The other Roman sites in Arles are what remains of the Roman Theater, the ancient cemetery known as Les Alyscamp, the Cryptoportiques, and Constantine’s Palace.
St-Trophime is a UNESCO World-Heritage church that dates from the 12th century. The cloisters and Romanesque portal of the church are beautiful.
Two specialties of Arles are Daube, a beef stew made with red wine, and Gardianne, stew with beef and olives.
The best Arles hotels for sightseeing and shopping.
Arles Fountain
For unabashed luxury and pampering, l’Hotel Paticulier is the top Arles hotel. The 18th-century mansion was originally the private residence of a Baron, and consequently it’s small — just 13 rooms. Behind the stately gate, the townhouse surrounds a central courtyard with a small swimming pool. The teak loungers are welcome after a full day of sightseeing. Rooms are in the main house or in the stables. Many have polished wood floors, and beamed ceilings. The rooms in the stables have private terraces. All have mini bars, safety deposit boxes, Internet access, and luxurious, modern bathrooms. There’s a small spa, a sauna, and a Turkish-style hamman. Although l’Hotel Particulier is only a five-minute walk from Arles’s shops and restaurants, it has a relaxing, country feel.
Walking distance to all of Arles attractions, the Grand Hotel Nord-Pinus is located right on the Place du Forum. It’s a see-and-be-seen kind of place with vibrant public areas and stylish rooms decorated with expensive fabrics and French doors. The hotel has quite a history. Picasso lived here, and Hemingway, John Huston, and Jean Cocteau were frequent guests. Today, the turn-of-the-century townhouse does a good job of balancing old and new. From the wrought-iron balustrade to the dramatic photos by Peter Beard, it’s a stylish place that oozes personality. The cozy bar and first-rate brasserie are popular with locals, as well as guests. Rooms are furnished with antiques, hand-woven rugs, and original art. The Nord-Pinus isn’t for everyone, but no other Arles hotel can match it’s bravado.
Farmers Market in Arles
Housed in an old 17th-century convent, the Hotel Jules Cesar is one of the most reliable hotels in Arles. With a heated outdoor swimming pool, lovely gardens, and one of the best restaurants in town, the Jules Cesar has everything you need for an enjoyable stay. As a member of the Small Luxury Hotels group, the service is top notch. The 56 spacious rooms are decorated in the Provencal style with antiques and include amenities like satellite television and mini bars. Breakfast is served in the old Cloisters and there’s a beautiful Baroque chapel next door which is used for conferences. Rooms in the new addition are less charming than those in the original convent.
Also in an old building — in this case, the 15th-century stone home of the former Arlatan counts — the Hotel d’Arlatan has been managed by the same family since the 1920s. A glass floor in the lobby reveals the ruins of a 4th-century palace built by Constantine. Rooms are furnished with antiques and local fabrics. Many have stone walls, tile floors, and beamed ceilings. The best overlook the gardens and its fountain, where breakfast is served. The outdoor swimming pool is very refreshing in summer, and there’s a bar. Hotel d’Arlatan has lots of atmosphere and a wonderful location in the heart of the historic part of Arles.
Read more about Arles here. And read about the French Riviera town of Eze here.
Arles image Flickr: Wolfgang Staudt
Arles Farmers Market image Flickr: basykes
Arles Fountain image Flickr: daneen_vol
